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Best bang for your buck is this stuff

Ten whole feet of it. Clear so you can easily see when fuel reaches the carb.

Also, use 1/4" metal hose clamps. Such as these.

Finally, please save yourself a lot of hassle and use a quality in line fuel filter. The best is the Wix 33001

I hope this helps you out! Happy flying

I transport mine on a cargo carrier on the back of my Subaru brz, so if I can do it you can too. I have driven tins of hours on the highway, done probably 90mph, and never had a single problem.

Make sure you secure the prop when you transport it, I use two bungees (the loop ones with the little ball on the end, like this looped around the horizontal bars of the cage on either side, and they keep the prop horizontal and still so it doesn't turn into a wind turbine on the highway. A piece of rope will do the same thing but the bungees are nice and gentle on the prop and easy to take off.

You'll need two ratchet straps, and to figure out how to hold it down to the carrier. In terms of carriers, I'm not sure what size hitch receive you have, but I'm going to guess it's the smaller 1 1/4 inch one. I got this one. It works well, but sits a little low to the ground and took a while to put together. I also had to make a wooden base for the bottom of it. This is the same brand and sits a little higher off the ground, so if your car is low like mine you might want this as another budget option (mine scrapes leaving my driveway, not a huge deal) I also think this is the one Tucker Gott uses, it's probably the same build quality as the one I got. Sides are a little lower so might be harder to secure a fuel can.

This one seems a little nicer, but it's double the cost. Keep in mind, whatever cargo carrier you get you will need to have a flat surface to place your paramotor on. The one I got required me to make a wooden base to sit the motor on, which isn't necessarily easy. For the two others I listed, they have metal grating that you could probably place the motor on, but I personally think a piece of thin plywood bolted to the metal would work better. That way you don't have metal on metal and it gives a little better grip on the bottom of your motor.

One thing I'm not sure I like with the more expensive pro series model, is the clamp it uses on the receiver. The curt carriers use a bolt instead of a pin, and tightening that bolt locks the bar in the receiver and gets rid of most of the slop. With a normal pin, the carrier can rotate a lot so it needs some way to get rid of that. On the pro series carrier, they use a U bolt type thing that clamps down on the receiver, so Instead of just putting the carrier in and tightening one bolt like on the Curt carriers, you have to put it in, put a pin in, and tighten two nuts.

Each have their plusses and minuses, but they will all work.

This is my setup:


http://imgur.com/a/GMkqy8J

https://www.amazon.com/ZymeAway-Flood-Water-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B005DEKC56

Enzyme based cleaner, safe on fabrics. I've used this for years, and it's amazing. What it does is use an enzyme to break down protiens. It kills mold and keeps it away better than chlorox which causes mold to blast spores into the air as it dies, and it also works to break down urine smells. When I bought my house the wood subfloor had lots of pet urine soaked into it. I mopped it a couple times with diluted zymeaway and the odor completely disappeared for good. My wife says it's great for getting blood stains out of clothes better than hydrogen peroxide. Pretty much anything protein it will break down, so urine, fecal remnants, blood, mold, etc. As long as your wing is not made or coated in anything protein based it should be GTG, just spray it let it soak for a little bit, then rinse it off.

Awesome! The first step I'd recommend would be getting a book called Understanding the sky. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Sky-Dennis-Pagen/dp/0936310103

From there read as much as you can online as well. There's tons of great info in blogs and on the youtube machine. Watching fluid dynamics videos alone will help visualize where turbulence could be on your route: https://paraglidinginfo.com/category/meteorology/

Beyond that, a lot f knowledge is gained through hanging out with experts. The experts in this case are generally the glider folks. They are somewhat forced into as they have to read the weather to get where they are going. You won't level up as a glider without good weather knowledge. If there's a glider site near you, try to make friends with those guys. Have a unique condition pointed out to you by an expert is tough to beat. Making those connections can be hard in the motor world. In the end the goal is to use the usual weather services to inform your own forecast for that area. Start small, then expand it out when making your XC trips.

For a non-trainer to spend a couple days with you and turn you loose on their equipment would be generally considered dangerous and irresponsible; so finding someone willing to do that is unlikely. At most, you may be able to find someone willing to give you a ground handling crash coarse and let you kite their glider in ideal conditions and put on and walk around in a motor. Getting started can be a significant financial commitment; but bad training can cost you far more.

Now with all the "that's a bad idea" talk out of the way, If you're unsure, get in contact with a trainer off off usspa site. This one or this is pretty close to you. Most of them will sit down and talk with you without actually committing to any long term plans. They can tell you more about what's involved and introduce you to the equipment.

We're heading into the cold season which isn't as much to fly in and not ideal to learn in so take your time do some learning. Pick up and read The PPG Bible widely considered the definitive guide on the topic. It can give you a head start to getting through training easier. Also Aviator has a good ground handling video to help you understand basic flight mechanics. Read conversation on the Paramotor Facebook Group watch several paramotor celebrities, read conversation etc. There's a lot of resources here. Once spring rolls around, you may have a better idea if you'd like to commit to the sport.

After you take the time to train, gear up, meet friends and experience it first hand I think you wouldn't trade it for anything.

I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.

I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.


Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife


Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/

Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard


RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv


Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.

You should definitely get proper training before trying to fly, and any good instructor will be able to answer all your questions and more about airspace and where you can and can't take-off.
At the very least get yourself a copy of the PPG Bible which has a great section on reading charts, along with covering just about everything else that a paramotor pilot should know.

Nice work on the quick landing. I recently bought the MSD plug boot and terminal set off amazon and it has worked great for the last 15ish hours.

MSD 3311 Spark Plug Wire Boot and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029JK8W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I've thought about those as well, but the only ones I trust are the kind with the release lever (ie: these). And I haven't seen any that are $20 for a pack :D

Try this.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask, but the essentials will be covered with decent training.

If you are brand new to air sports or flying in general it may be beneficial to find somewhere to do a tandem just to get a basic idea of what to expect.

So I've been looking into this and the cheapest option I've found is BASEline. It's open source, free to use, and you can upgrade your phone's GPS with a $130 gadget if you feel your phone's GPS doesn't cut it.

I'm going to try jumping without the fancy GPS and see how my phone and the app does in the air by itself.

Good training will cover emergency scenarios like you describe. Basically, I can image imagine two scenarios involving water landing: engine out and loss of vehicle control. Here's how I would handle them.

For an engine out over water:

1. Check any surge (the forward movement of the wing that comes from a rapid deceleration) with brake input. Steer the wing. Aviate towards safe terrain that can serve as a landing zone.
   
2. If you still have a lot of altitude, attempt to restart the motor. (It is always better to regain powdered flight if possible).
   
3. Whether the motor restarts or not, land immediately once possible, and preferably into the wind.
   
4. If landing on ground isn't possible and the motor does not restart (or you are at low enough altitude that you can't risk a restart) begin un-clipping from the harness progressively as you the approach the water. Legs first, then waist, then chest (the idea being that its harder to get to the further connection points while in the water). Ideally, your pace should match with your altitude (so that you don't fall out too soon). Limit any connections between you and the vehicle (you may wish to have a hook knife in hand at this point).
   
5. As your legs hit the water, jump forward away from the vehicle. Swim clear.
   
6. Since you're smart and wore a PFD to fly over water, inflate it now. Do not attempt to recover your wing or motor until after you have reached safety. Again, you're smart, and you equipped your motor with floatation, so it'll handle itself until rescued.
   
   For loss of vehicle control over water:
   
   
7. At higher altitudes, assess the situation. If the wing is likely to recover with no or minimal input, give it those inputs and enough time to say aloud "ohfuckohfuckohfuckohfuck". Mentally prepare to deploy reserve.
   
8. If the wing hasn't recovered after your brief cuss session, you are at too low an altitude to await a recovery, or the situation is deemed irrecoverable, follow the procedure to deploy your reserve. "Look, grab, pull, clear, throw!"
   
9. Once the reserve is deployed, disable the glider wing if possible. In this scenario, I would recommend using a hook knife to cut the glider's risers, but I don't think I advocate pulling the wing in towards you (to prevent entangling yourself when in the water). Downplaning in bad, but getting caught in the lines in water is worse. As you approach the water, follow the procedures for motor out, above, starting at (4).

Looks like this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JF53ZEE/ref=emc_b_5_i

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You could just buy a Class 1 carrier that will natively fit a 1.25" receiver. Here is the one I bought.

Can't thank you enough! I think I'll talk to my buddy who is also planning on jumping into PPG and see if he wants to make a trek over to MW Parajet once it warms up.

Is this the book you're referring to?

I have a primer bulb on mine. Here’s a link to one, though u need to measure for the correct size. Just splice it in your gas line.

attwood Primer Bulb 3/8", https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053HP43I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j8QOBb0PYZAE0