(Part 2) Top products from r/pcmods

I suggest upgrading your CPU cooler to something possibly like the Cooler Master Hyper Evo, use some ArctiClean to clean up the CPU before the install after you remove the old cooler. I suggest using coffee filters to clean it up because they are lint free and work very well. You can find tutorials online on how to install a new cooler if you have any issues with it. You can either use the thermal paste the cooler comes with or get some Arctic Silver 5, I think Radioshack repackages it and sells it.

I also suggest setting it up so the fan is pushing air through the cooler towards the back of the case and if you can afford it, get a second fan for the other side and do a push/pull config and that will help temps a lot.

Or if you have enough room and want a good solution to lower CPU temps I suggest getting something like the Cooler Master Seidon 120XL. I have one in my build and helps the CPU temps since my case is so small


Also get some cable ties, that shit is a mess

Thanks for your help mate! I ended up getting a board from eBay which should come next week. I think I've got an idea how it might all fit together. Will this badly drawn diagram work?

The back panel on the motherboard will be hidden inside the case so aesthetics aren't (too) important, with that in mind can I simply use a headphone splitter to send the audio signal to the VU meters and HI-FI simultaneously?

Thanks again for all your help!

I ordered this one, don't get me wrong, it is quality, but it doesn't work on the ATX, PCIE, or CPU power.

works great for molex and fans though

Bought mine off Amazon here. It dries hard and is pretty adherent, and doesn't run when you're positioning the mod. There may be better options, but it's worked well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H0M2E333ZJX4Q9T3PMP5&dpID=415VJ4uVQ5L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

You might want to look for something like this then. Not sure if that one is any good, just trying to give you a base for your search.

I just use metal hole saws, you also need the Mandrel to attach it to your drill. The best way to do it when working with metal is to but the hole out of a piece of wood first, clamp the wood down to your case and then use it as a guide so you get an even cut. It works with acrylic case windows too but you have to be gentle.

I was thinking more about the lighting issues it would cause. Dust will be an issue but even when clean it wouldn't look right I don't imagine.

Hard to tell without a bunch more angles, but it looks like you can get under the glass in the middle. If you were me and had the reckless disregard for safety that I have you'd probably buy some wood shims, heat it up, get the shims underneath that exposed edge, and see what happens. My guess is there's nothing holding the exterior glass under that band.

Sorry I'm a little late to the conversation, but when desoldering a component, this stuff is what we use in the business for a clean removal.

Something like this? $300 is not as unreasonable as I expected tbh

Maybe something like this: http://www.amazon.com/GearGrip-108-0190-Geargrip-Lite-Holder/dp/B0009JCUY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416921977&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+case+handle

metal snips

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-14-563-Straight-Aviation/dp/B00009OYFY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526052703&sr=8-3&keywords=metal+snip

[Plasti Dip] (http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW) is what I've seen used most.

> Dremel 420

yea it doesn't mention that it can cut metal.

I got the fiberglass cause its supposed to last longer. That being said though it was only a pack of 5 while this is a pack of 20
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-420-Heavy-Cut-Off-Wheels/dp/B00004UDH3

o well

It is an air filter. https://www.amazon.com/WEB-Absorber-Control-Filter-Carbon/dp/B000FKF6LI

I got a couple of stickers, some ads, and one of those "stick anywhere fans."

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Spot-Cool-SpotCool-System/dp/B000I5KSNQ

Some cuts I couldn't get with a Dremel. I used the quick detach metal disks http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA

i know little of acrilic but you could probably tint it with the paint people use to tint there tail lights. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413900749&sr=8-3&keywords=tail+light+tint

or even use a regular window tint witch is made in veriety of shades and even colors.

This shit right here. Or possibly a narrower one; dunno how wide you need it.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-060-216-Momentary-Switch/dp/B0002ZPBHK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1525727832&sr=8-7&keywords=momentary+key+switch

Either cast a resin mold or cut and glue/solder/epoxy the key to the ring. Hook the switch up to your case.

Any momentary key switch would work, but the tubular lock will probably be the lowest profile key you can use. Plus, you can keep a spare key hidden somewhere in case your ring gets lost/breaks.

Do you have any advice on what would be required for me to get that Xbox 360 wire to work on a computer? If that isn't possible, do you know if I can take apart an old Xbox 360 and use some components from it to get it working?

I'm pretty new to all this so I don't fully understand why you can plug an Xbox 360 (which is basically an underpowered computer) into any TV and it will display perfectly every time without fussing with the display. I've set up an old laptop connected to the TV using this thing before but it wasn't ideal because it's bulky, blurry, and worst of all is I had to adjust the bounding box every time I used a different TV.