(Part 2) Top products from r/polymerclay

The glue I'm using is a gap-filling cyanoacrylate, specifically this: https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ

What I've been doing is applying it to the cracked areas, and smoothing it down. Once that's dried, I've applied more, and smoothed that. Repeating until the crack is filled, and I will sand that after. I have a pretty solid array of fine grit sandpapers, as well as a pretty extensive array of dremel bits. I think some fine grit buffs will help me with these cracks as well as some other rough spots I was hoping to smooth over. Hoping it goes well. I'm actually having some success re-texturing the hair where it cracked by using the same metal bristle tool on the glue as it dries. Gonna need to soak this tool in some acetone when I'm done, though.

I only called it a kiln because it was inspired by this:

Efcolor Kiln Set by Efcolor https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004KT2JOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_djnzCbA0NCY34

An artist I follow uses it to bake her pieces.

The other simpler ovens use Teflon, and I have birds. I love this set up because it keeps everything enclosed for me, I can take it out to air out after bake time is over.

Yes I just put it over a stove burner. I used an oven thermometer. I did a bunch of testing to see if it held the temp over long periods of time and it was very consistent, once I found the right distance and setting on the burner. I have taken to baking my smaller pieces for 45 min, regardless of size. Nothing has burned or even changed colour. There seems to be a lot of residue inside the lid after, so I'm feeling pretty confident that they are thorough baked.

Thank you so much for that link! Further reading of the baking info, the science behind it, and other points makes me feel like my pieces are being baked properly with this as well! I really appreciate it. And yes I do leave the thermometer in. So that at the end of baking when I take the lid off, if the temperature is lower than expected I can readjust, and bake at the right temp. It has yet to happen however.

When you say flexible "cutters" I assume you're referring to flexible blades, right?

Looks like at least their online site has at least Sculpey's Super Slicer, although this version comes with 3 other blades (2 ripple/wavy blades, and a long rigid blade), and "handles" which imo aren't necessary and just get in the way (unless the user tends to be especially klutzy).
https://www.michaels.com/sculpey-super-slicer/10138054.html

Amazon has a number of different ones, different long lengths, etc, but I see only the Kato blade as a brand I'm familiar with, and anything by Donna Kato is good. It comes with handles but they don't have to be used:
https://www.amazon.com/Van-Aken-International-VA12602-Multicolor/dp/B004O7EWPE

Different degrees of flex can be fun too but in general the medium-flex ones will be sufficient (and the medium to very flexible ones can be kind of pulled on from both sides, with the fingers fairly close to the cane, when slicing canes rather than needing a more rigid one).

https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+blade

We didn't have a lot of choice in the old days. The only game in town was ordering tissue blades (biotome blades) from places like Thomas Scientific. Those weren't stainless steel so we just put up with the discoloration, etc. I've even ordered a box of those in the past to share with my guild.

You've got your priorities in the right place re pasta machines...lol! Unless you're really into making your own pasta.

You're definitely a natural. They look great!

One thing I've found is that the zig-zag-y blades you get in sets of polymer clay blades like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0013E0RQ4 - are really useful for cupcake cases. If you press the texture on the case part instead of cutting the grooves in, you get a really great effect that looks like a real cupcake case.

Then an armature would be a good start then a good set of modelling tools something like this one would be good, a set of silicone brushes a set of high quality paintbrushes and acrylic paints if she paints her models, especially some very fine detailing brushes.

Yeah, just some very thin gauge brass/copper wire should work well. Something like this.

You can twist multiple strands together to make adjustable armatures for limbs, and for smaller, more pointy bits yeah, just jamming a few bits in (being careful not to push it into your finger) works great.

Also, not sure which sculpey is being used, but I find Super Sculpey is better than Original Sculpey for fine detail, and doesn't break as easily for smaller pieces.

I would also recommend Super Sculpey Medium or Firm. I just discovered medium at Pat Catan's. You can also order it from Amazon.

Medium on Amazon

Firm on Amazon

I does dry out, but doesn't cure. You can start working with it and it'll soften a bit, but unless you use something else it'll remain brittle. I've gotten some liquid clay softener like this and it works great.

These and these. Oh and This. I also recommend getting a pasta machine or something like it. Heres one by sculpey.

I always go to Amazon to look for tools. I often just get the clay tools that are meant for pottery and the like,

Ball tools here and here

I also have tools meant for fondant (but sometimes these arent the best because they are plastic and have the mold line). I also bought a pack of box cutter blades because they were cheaper blades that were long than the Sculpey brand. Also a roller! I bought one meant for baking because it was so much cheaper! This is the one I have.

I also use this table vise to clamp onto the clay extruder so I don't have to hold onto it. It is 10x easier to use with the clamp.

I haven't tried it yet, but the artist who I've been following most closely as I learn about sculpting uses Krylon matte finish spray (this one I believe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=twister_B004JLA2OU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1), and her stuff doesn't seem to be shiny. Her name is EmilySculpts if you want to check her out.

theres a diffrence?
Is this not polymer clay? (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00114PYGO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495042507&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sculpey%20polymer%20clay%20silver&dpPl=1&dpID=51J4VWiZTJL&ref=plSrch

I use varathane. It’s water based and I have never had it yellow or crack on me. I will suggest that once you open it,you put it in a different container or the can will rust and discolor it. RUST-OLEUM 200061H 1/2 Pint Gloss Water Based Wood Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPCKBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6t13CbEP3NGNT

I just got the standard push pins you find on a bulletin board. Picked them up at the dollar store.

https://www.amazon.com/Officemate-Reusable-Assorted-Colors-92610/dp/B00006IBAC/ref=sr_1_9?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1485177583&sr=1-9&keywords=push+pins

https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_office-products_sr_pg1_2?ie=UTF8&adId=A030198518HVZUN5PPST4&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FOutus-Clear-Push-Tacks-Pieces%2Fdp%2FB01MG1PFRD%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2%3Fs%3Doffice-products%26ie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1485177583%26sr%3D1-2-spons%26keywords%3Dpush%2Bpins%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1485177582&id=3810465669288945&widgetName=sp_atf

Hehe I’m still relatively new too. And I too make polymer clay things, the tiny stuff really does hurt your eyes. I bought one of these things as it helps for the tiny stuffs: head mount magnifier

I have not had this happen with the Sculpey glaze, but I have barely used it. It sort of looks like maybe there was trapped air bubbles that popped as it was drying. Did you shake up the bottle or stir it up before painting on your glaze? If so, don't do that.

I have only used Sculpey Satin Glaze once or twice on my pieces. I seal everything with Verathane which is a water-based polyurethane sealant and/or PYM II.