(Part 2) Top products from r/pools

This TR-100 is the new iteration of the tried and true Pac-Fab bobbin wound filter design, so yes... this is a good filter.

I'm not a fan of the Pentair 261050 2-Inch HiFlow Valve because I recall some odd problem they had with it (may be remedied by now) AND that it has an unusual plumbing configuration - but those two things aside, it does allow a higher flow due to it's improved interior design.

The tried and true (multiport) valve is the Pentair 261055 Multiport Valve for Triton And Quad D.E. Filters, 2 Inch, 7 1/2 Inch Centerline which is pretty much their industry standard for more than twenty years now (since they stopped using Hayward multiport valves!).

So, that would be my sand filter setup of choice. Now that you're considering a more expensive filter, have you checked out Pentair's DE (diatomaceous earth) filters? Better, finer filtration in the same amount of filter time although a bit more maintenance as the media has to be replaced occasionally.

But yes, that is a good filter.

I am currently working towards a similar goal. We are currently using a salt system for chlorination and recently picked up this automatic pool cleaner.

I was pretty skeptical at first that this would do a good job but after using it for a day it cleaned better than we ever have on our own.

You would need to take it out and put in once a week though, so its not fully automated as in it stays in the pool 100%, but you "set it and forget it" for a day and the next day you can take it out.

Now that we have pretty much balanced the pool chemicals chemistry, I am using this Phos Free to keep the water clear and free from alegea. Everything has been working pretty well so far. Hope this helps.

The skimmers were actually recently replace when I bought the house. The lines were replaced as well but with the 1 1/2 black poly. I feel they did a cheap job since they were selling the house.

I didn't know you can use both the holes in the skimmers... Hmmm that makes a good idea if that works. Can I just set up 2 1 1/2" lines coming off each skimmer and meet them together to the 2 1/2" run to the pump?

I was planning on upgrading the filter to this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H3J474/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and the mutiport value to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F6S9TC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I would be changing all the pad piping to 2 inch except the the outbound to the returns which was planning 2 1/2" and the inbound from the skimmers 2 1/2" as well.

How does that sound?

Thanks again for your expertise.

I'm not sure if this will work for that hose in particular, but I have one of the typical light blue rubber hoses and I use an extension cord spool (similar to this) that's wide enough for it. It's not perfect, but it is nice once you get going since you can easily keep it elevated and just walk along the length of the tube while rolling. It rolls up fairly easily and since it's elevated and getting compressed on the spool, it fully empties it at the same time. It's been better than trying to roll it up in my hands.

No prob.

I just bought this one this summer and it works great. Something else I've learned is to not leave it outside over the winter else the bristles get brittle and will fall off. LOL

Swimline Hydro Tools 8145 Clear Weighted Triangle Pool Vacuum Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOL29W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_QqJxzbT8JTVKR

Unfortunately not, you would need to drain just below the skimmer because the stuff needs 12 hours to set. The directions will say it shouldn't be used below a waterline, but we haven't had problems with it. If you don't want to drain the pool you could always try Pool Putty, which is a 2-part epoxy that you mold together with your hands like clay. That stuff can be applied underwater and will cure there as well. We usually use to fill cracks underwater but I'm sure it will hold down a plastic ring too.

Think it would be possible to retrofit a dedicated heater? Like plumb in something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/American-Standard-9075120-9075-120-Safe-T-Heater/dp/B000RP4SIS/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=hot+tub+heater&qid=1572840688&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-2

Put it on a separate circuit.

Not sure if this falls into the category of cheap inflatable, but this company makes some great loungers: Kelsyus Floating Water Hammock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9K7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_bxS8wb33AQH2N

This one works so well. It has labels that say its toxic but ONLY if you drink it straight from the bottle. I have watering holes for lizards and birds and it really keeps it clean looking and you only use a few drops.

1- Run it with the filter in bypass/boost/recirculate/whatever-your-valve-calls-it. If this fixes it, your filter is at fault.

2- turn it on, and while it is doing this cycling, go stand next to your skimmer and watch it. See if your weir door is stuck causing the pump to pull all the water it can, run the skimmer almost completely empty, then reprime after the skimmer fills back up (slowly).

3- what you described sounds like 'surging' which is often caused by a clog in the pipe. Get one of these or my preference, one of these. Put the blow bag on the end of the garden hose, open up the pump lid, and stick it a few inches into the pipe. Remove the skimmer lid and basket, and turn the hose on. You should get flow backwards through the piping, and hopefully start getting a bunch of debris you can fish out by hand.

If these don't fix it, and you're sure that all your orings on and before the pump (lid, pump drain plug, any valves on the suction side of the pump) then you probably need a professional to come blow the lines with air or CO2.

That would do it for me as well. If they can't respect the fact that it's not their pool, then they are free to spend the time, money, and effort to make their own.

At this point, spending a bit of cash for legal advice isn't a bad idea. Definitely document the fact that she's persona non grata at the pool (and make her sign said document), and discuss with the lawyer in detail how you can be covered both legally and financially if/when the kids find their way back in the pool anyway. A camera might not be a terrible idea as well.

As far as locks go, there's a few options:

First I'm seeing of this, but it doesn't seem too bad: https://www.amazon.com/Combi-Bolt-CB2000-BLK-4-Dial-Combination-Sliding/dp/B000I66TTW

I've seen this used around, it's a good compromise between keyless entry and higher security, plus since there's no batteries there's no worries about water entry short-circuiting something:
https://www.amazon.com/All-Weather-Mechanical-Keyless-Deadbolt-Door/dp/B005KG6A0I

Looks like you need to re-do the expansion joint.

I'd start by getting a carpet knife. The hook on the knife makes it easier to dig all that stuff out of there. Get rid of the old caulk, foam backer, etc.

Take a shop vac around and clean everything out of that crack. If you leave stuff behind, it'll just be a place where things can start to go wrong again.

Now, you're going to need some new backer. You can get it at most pool equipment supply places. Here's an example: http://www.poolcenter.com/p/foam-backer-rod . You'll want to get it a tiny bit wider than the hole you're filling in. You just cut it to size using a razor knife.

Then, you're going to need caulk. I used Vulkem when I had to do this. http://www.amazon.com/Tremco-Vulkem-Polyurethane-Sealant-Caulk/dp/B000WTXMR2

The guide I used is located here: http://blog.poolcenter.com/article.aspx?articleid=6289

(Note: I'm not a pool pro. I just bought a house with a fixer-upper-pool, so have had to learn how to fix things on my own.)

There are portable pumps for exactly what you're doing. Here's one in Amazon, but your hardware store will probably have something, too. Wayne VIP50 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Portable Electric Water Removal Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ6CU4/

Mechanical pool timer? What is this 1975? Honeywell Digital Timer - Multiple programs, 7 day programability. ....Want pump to run a little linger on Wednesday, this has you covered.

I ended up buying these adapters earlier so I could use the new hoses. Intex 1.25" to 1.5" Tybe B Hose Adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RSICZU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheapest pool vac available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_N76EzbSVWK42G

Kelsyus Floating Lounger Pool Float

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9O85E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zc3iDb1FEV9FF

That is a good link. Here are my thoughts. In most places in teh country water is abundant and cheap, much more so than chemicals. So I would partially drain the pool if it looks really dirty and green. How much to drain is an excellent question. If your pool is a liner based pool, you need to keep at least 12 to 18 inches of water in the shallow end to prevent the liner from moving around. If your pool is fiberglass, then you have to keep water in teh pool to keep it from floating up. If it is a gunnite pool, you can completely drain it, but snot want to keep it drained for very long. Someone with more gunnite knowledge can add more details to this.

So I woudl remove some water. Take a Leaf Rake attachment to your pool pole (like this one http://www.amazon.com/Swimline-8040-Professional-Heavy-Deep-Bag/dp/B000MOIWWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464187999&sr=8-1&keywords=pool+leaf+rake) and then go along the bottom to scoop out any larger physical debris. At that point, add water, and as soon as possible, SLAM the pool and get the filter running. If it is really dirty water, you might need to backflush to clean your filters out a few times depending on your filter type.