(Part 2) Top products from r/postprocessing

I agree with /u/minilock that just about any newer IPS LED monitor will work, but they definitely aren't all equal. If you can afford it, the top of the line option is Eizo or NEC - but I've had quite good success with ASUS ProArt displays as well. It's mostly a question of color gamut. That Eizo is physically capable of showing you more colors than a lesser display.

The good news is that the vast majority of what you'll be printing actually does live inside of the sRGB color space - so I'd look for a display that specifically says it supports most of that. The Asus ProArt line supports 100% coverage of the sRGB color space - and the Eizo can show the majority of the Adobe1998 color space.

Now - aside from monitors, it's important to realize that if you are making the prints yourself at home/office instead of sending them out to a photo lab, then you'll also need a calibration device that can create paper profiles (the profile is based on the type of paper and ink you're using, on which printer).

I recommend the ColorMunki Photo. It's going to be painful on the wallet, but if you're printing at home and not working with paper profiles then you'll be doing quite a few rounds of print, adjust in photoshop, and print.

If you are sending images to a print lab, then a less expensive calibration device is totally an option. The ColorMunki display is totally solid, as is the Spyder line.

One thing to watch out for - once you've done your calibration, make sure you have disabled any OS options that will automatically adjust screen brightness based on ambient conditions. Otherwise your prints could turn out too dark or too light if you're editing and the screen brightness goes up or down to compensate.

Good luck!

Honestly I don't think that the post processing is the thing to worry about. Get out in front of people, get pictures of them not of them in a group from way in the back. There are a few where you're up in folks grills, but (and I may be projecting here) don't be afraid to just go up and make a portrait of the people. Taking pictures of people is terrifying for me, so up until the last year or so my shots looked a lot like yours, groups of people from the back, obvious that the camera wasn't in their field of view or consciousness. Then I sacked up a bit and got up in their faces and started asking if I could take their picture.

You'll be amazed how easy it is to just do once you decide to do it. The camera is a great ice breaker and for a shy guy like me, having it between me and gulp humans helps a lot.

Also go and buy the book Exposure, read it, then read it some more. Then take pictures, and read it again.

And regarding free software LR and PS both have 30 day free trials to check out.

Here are the only two I have read specifically for lightroom, I highly recommend both:

for workflow and basic functionality (workflow isn't as sexy as editing, but if you get a good system down, it will essentially become second nature and allow you more time for editing):

Lightroom 2: Streamlining your Digital Photography Process

For the creative process: (arcterex already mentioned this one.)
Vision & Voice: Refining Your Vision in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom (Voices That Matter)

Anything by David Duchemin is great, he also has a blog and some great ebooks

This is a good blog also:
http://lightroomkillertips.com/

Wow, this response saddens me. I’m sorry you took my critique so personally but I suggest you grow some thicker skin if you wish to continue this endeavor. Don’t ask for a critique if you aren’t prepared to receive one. Don’t be so defensive and read what I have to say with an open mind.

Photography is art and art is subjective. My opinion is just that. It confuses me that you ask for an opinion, receive it, then demean the person for doing what you requested.

Asking for feedback is never a waste of time. Especially if you don’t like what you hear. I recommend you put yourself out there more not hole up in solitude. Maybe try some local photography clubs. You can bring and discuss your photos as well as others. It is a fantastic way to learn! It is humbling! And maybe since you will be getting feedback in person you won’t be so butt hurt about it.

Edit: Also, I recommend The Art of Photography. It might change your mind on the bit about art not being about portraying a message but simply being aesthetically pleasing. PM me and I’ll buy you a copy.

I do know that the first time I read about it, Ryan Brenizer was saying he typically did 4x4 matrix shots. The guide you have with the zig-zag seems more complicated to me but I rarely if ever do any stitching, so maybe it's not so bad.

That being said, I think equipment is the main thing. I don't know what kind of camera you have, but the bigger the sensor the better, and the longer/faster the lens, the better. I'm honestly not sure if an 85mm at f2.0 would be better or worse than a 300mm telephoto at f/5.6 without trying it out. The best would be something like this but I'm guessing you don't have 6 grand to drop on a new lens, haha :)

But I guess if you stitch more photos together you can make up for almost any lack in equipment.

Adobe has some pretty good tutorials, if you're looking to learn a specific thing. Otherwise, basically just messing around with Photoshop helps a lot. Observing the changes that each tool makes sticks in your mind a lot better than being told exactly how to do something. Also, Nik Software has some good filters you can demo and/or buy. I use Color Efex Pro 4, and the skin softener might help you out a lot with your model shots. This book is pretty useful, if you have the time to work through it. I'm taking a class right now, but I honestly have learned more through messing around myself than what the teacher has specifically taught us.

https://www.amazon.com/Its-Purple-Someones-Gonna-Die/dp/0240806883 Check out this book, it's a super cool resource on colors and their meanings in cultures through the world.

Skin

How to cheat in photoshop

Most things by this publisher are great resources. I recommend the one on color management, and camera raw

If you're the book reading type, I can highly recommend 'Light Science & Magic'. It'll help you grasp the fundamentals of light and how it works and can be manipulated.

Non affiliate Amazon Link

If you learn better from books than online tutorials, this book taught me how to use Curves and you can buy it used for 9 cents plus shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Photoshop-Classic-Guide-Correction/dp/0471403997/ref=pd_sim_b_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=03VVNKZQBM42Z7J110NB

http://www.moderncolorworkflow.com/dan-margulis

https://www.amazon.com/Photoshop-LAB-Color-Adventures-Colorspace/dp/0321356780

Both are good books on color, color correction and color theory.

Here is my take: http://imgur.com/YyVNc

You can download my PSD from https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5s0kfr1bii18069/CVg0TM9ErS/j6bXy.

I used a technique I learned from Scott Kelby's Professional Portrait Retouching Techniques for Photographers Using Photoshop that utilizes a high-pass filter and gaussian blur. I also added a contrast curve to boost the color in the eyes and painted over the black rim of the eyes to make them stand out. (They are, after all, the window to the soul.)

Get one of these. It will help.

"Best way" is to avoid them in the first place.

If you don't want reflections, don't shoot through glass.

Or, consider that glass has a little of the characteristic called 'direct reflection'. The reflections that you see, are 'direct' reflections of the light sources that fall within the family of angles (angle of incidence equals angle of reflection). So you could place the camera (or lights) so that the lights are outside the family of angles, thus the reflections wouldn't be in the photo. Or you could eliminate or block the light sources from being able to fall on the reflective surface.

Next, you could try using a polarizing filter, which helps to remove polarized direct reflection. This may or may not help, depending on the surface you have. In this case it would probably help, but may not completely eliminate the reflections from showing up in the shot.

Light: Science & Magic

If all else fails...I guess you can try to fix it in post.

This Kelby book? I'll never understand why so many how-to books for the art field get away with such poorly designed covers.

Check out Understanding Exposure.

Canon 85mm f/1.2L II USM

Widely regarded as an incredible lens. £1500 though.

If you are looking for a walkabout/general all-purpose zoom though, maybe look at a 24-70mm f/2.8 if you can afford it. A cheaper option is the 24-105mm which gives you a slightly longer range, but it's only f/4. I have it and I don't use it much so I'm selling mine. I'd rather have the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 + Canon 100mm f/2.8 L II or the Canon 85mm f/1.2

Just an old Spyder 2 Express. Nothing fancy, but it hasn't let me down yet.

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC9HFNY/

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Pieces-Starburst-Olympus-Cameras/dp/B07XB1BDZB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=16CFHL5181PZR&keywords=star+filter+55mm&qid=1574448234&sprefix=star+filter%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-1