Top products from r/prusa3d

We found 80 product mentions on r/prusa3d. We ranked the 221 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/prusa3d:

u/salsation · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

A few thoughts:

  • Calibration:
    • Recalibrate every time you move the printer.
    • Live adjust Z is the key for good first layers! Setting this right fixes most print problems.
    • There is no "correct" live adjust value since everybody's PINDA probe is mounted at a slightly different height.
    • Go higher (50-100um) for PETG.
  • Adhesion:
    • The official guide is good, but tl;dr:
    • PEI is a great bed material but still use glue stick for general printing.
    • To clean the sheet of glue, soak it in plain water, then wipe with a paper towel, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol (91% or higher).
    • Acetone only occasionally. I've used it maybe twice in a year and think it's unnecessary.
    • Windex for PETG works great.
    • Let PETG prints cool before removing.
  • Tools:
    • Check the edge of the scraper that comes with the printer: mine had a burr that scratched up my bed.
    • Tools you need that aren't included:
  • Octoprint:
  • Also:
    • The filament sensor is nice but can give bad readings with some filaments, specifically dark PETG. I turn it off.
    • "Stealth" mode is funny to me because the motors are driven so quietly with it turned off. I don't see the point.
    • I put a sock on my heater block, saved me a lot of mess.

      Lastly: don't doubt the design! I got mine (assembled) mid-December last year and it has worked perfectly. Er... except for a replacement power supply and PINDA probe, but those were easy to diagnose, Prusa sent parts w/no fuss, and replacement was straightforward. You'll get a newer/better version, but it's a solid design to start: don't monkey with it and it will work like a champ.

      ​
u/Polaris2246 · 0 pointsr/prusa3d

8 bit boards are the reason prints are slow. They just can't calculate fast enough for precision. Some new affordable 32 bit boards are finally starting to show up. I'm guessing Prusa will design his own 32bit board.

​

Maybe a custom E3D hotend that can produce enough heat to keep up with faster print speeds.

​

I think a more polished way of doing the nylock mod will be part of the printer. I'm quite happy with the process of the nylock mod now in conjunction with the plugin that helps with the process big time.

​

I'd love to see a larger print volume at the very least in the z axis. I swapped the smooth rod bearings out for these and that took an already quiet quiet printer to a whole new level of quiet and NO MORE OIL. They are impregnated with lubricant.

​

I'd LOVE to see a better way to mount the whole extruder assembly to the z axis rails. You can over tighten the screws and put too much tension on the bearings (both my new ones and the stock metal ones) and restrict movement enough cause homing issues. I do my best not to ever over tighten certain screws and it still happens once in a while. I've gotten used to it but a better way to mount it would be appreciated.

​

Maybe a few built in LEDs around the hotend and even a more visible nozzle end. Have the fan duct on the back side or something.

​

One last thing would be a better main board housing that better handles the cables going into the bod. Maybe two entry points so securing the cables going into the box isn't so extremely tight fitting.

​

Ok, one last last thing. No more tiny pieces/tiny 'appendages' on large parts that can easily break off. I know that may not be possible but why not mention it.

u/PiperArrow · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

> Even if I manage to get it to stick right, the booger on the nozzle starts pulling up my first layer.

Yeah, you should really get a sock for the hotend. Get the one with a tiny hole for the nozzle. Really. Order a few today from Amazon. Today. For me, it's not worth trying to print PETG without a sock.

Also, one thing I do is print a skirt (not brim) that is three lines wide (or even more for a small model), 15 mm away from the model, and only 1 layer deep. Any snot left on the nozzle from the purge gets wiped off. HOWEVER, that can leave a snot blob on the skirt, and so (a) the skirt can get pulled away from the sheet, and (b) if if not, the second layer of the skirt can fail. That's why I print the skirt 15 mm away from the model, and only one layer. If you manage to get the skirt printed this way (even with blobs and the skirt loose), and have a nozzle with a sock, chances are pretty good everything else will work. This has increased my yield with PETG prints dramatically.

Of course, you need a clean bed, etc.

It's actually pretty amazing --- I sometimes get horrible looking skirts, with portions detached from the heatbed, big blobs, etc., and then a beautiful part printed inside the skirt.

The one downside is that the single layer skirt can be really hard to remove. I use a part I printed (for another purpose) that is shaped a bit like an air hockey striker --- it's a disk with a handle essentially. I just slide the striker against the skirt to break it free.

> Sorry, I'm just feeling pretty defeated at the moment. I wish mr prusa would stop by and tune up my printer for me.

Have hope! Try my method. But if it works, you have to post your print!

> Damn thing start streaming filament out as soon as the temp hits 205C.

That's super weird. Either it's wet, or your hotend thermistor is way off.

Is this happening on a filament change? I've actually had residual Hatchbox PLA filament squirt out of the nozzle when loading PETG. But after loading everything was fine.

u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)

I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.

So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.

Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/

And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM

Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377

u/phinneypat · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

u/Klathmon · 1 pointr/prusa3d

these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.

Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.

Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.



But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.

u/HAChaos · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I had the same issue.

It's actually really easy to take apart and get to the extruder if you want to check everything.

Unscrew the fans and let them dangle to the side, then you unscrew the parts that are holding the extruder in there. After that you should be able to wiggle the whole thing out.

But honestly, just by looking at your picture, it doesn't look like you have heat creep, or plastic issues. So I doubt it's going to be an issue with the heat break, block, or anything like that. So probably just the heater cartridge.

I was just in your shoes, and successfully spliced a new heater cartridge onto my old wires.

Basically snip off the old wire about 6-8 inches down, strip the wire coating, and splice on a new heater cartridge.

This is the bundle of heater cartridges I got from Amazon. They work perfectly with my MK3. The cartridge itself is slightly longer than the base, but still works without issues.

Also to make splicing easier and faster I got these and they have been working really great.

u/Hotrian · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I agree with /u/DesignFlaw06. The MMU2S is not difficult to assemble or use. It does add a few possible problems but they're negligible in the long run. Single color prints still work fine, you just have to Load to Nozzle the desired color after each printer reset, before starting the first single color print - other than that it works just like before, and you can print your old single color gcode without problem. I would definitely print this M10 passthrough adapter and use that instead of the stock one. It does require 5x m10 adapters which you can get here for $7, but is significantly better than the press fit design of the original.

I haven't had any problems with my MMU2S since I swapped for the M10 adapter plate. I haven't tried using any dissolving supports yet but it's definitely on my list of things to try.

Edit: In my experience, if you forget to Load to Nozzle after a reset and before starting a print, on the first single color print the MK3S will run the mesh bed leveling and then prompt to do a Load to Nozzle anyway, but will do so right against the bed leaving a mess on the nozzle. Not a huge deal at all, it's just a tad annoying since it gets filament on the nozzle and can screw up your first layer. After first turning on the printer, I prefer to move the extruder up maybe 100mm off the bed, then do a Load to Nozzle, pull the filament trail left from the "swap", then start my print. This is the same as if you had manually swapped filament without the MMU2S. I am using a slightly older MMU2S firmware so it's possible they've changed this behaviour in the newest firmwares. I only have to do this when turning the printer off and on or doing a reset -- otherwise I can just keep printing and printing as long as I want without doing a Load to Nozzle

u/Mortimer452 · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

Skip the ruby nozzle, it's only necessary if you are printing a lot of abrasive filaments like wood, magnetic, carbon fiber, etc. Get it when (if) you need it. The stock nozzle will print PLA and PETG for ages before requiring replacement.

Same goes for the smaller nozzle, again, unless you are planning on using it right away. Smaller nozzles are great for finer details, but will typically greatly reduce your print speed, especially on really low layer heights like 0.05mm. They also really require you to have your settings, extruder and Z-height dialed in, something you're not going to be ready for right away if you're new to 3D printing.

As for tools, what comes in the box will get you by (assuming you purchased a kit, not assembled). A pair of fine-tipped tweezers is also useful. Side-cutting pliers. Also, highly recommend a proper set of ball-end hex screwdrivers instead of those God-awful hex keys.

u/s1ckopsycho · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Thekkiinngg Prusa MK3/S Double-Sided Textured PEI Powder-Coated Sheet V4.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQZCWDV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?

It's been great. I may have even gotten the V3- it discolored just a touch when I first printed on it, just kind of a weird rainbow effect in the right light... but it's been printing like a champ for the last 500 hours or so of use. In fact, I'm printing Terminator Rex on it right now. =)

u/JohnnyricoMC · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

I'd also

  • put temporary tape over the magnets prior to beginning: After months of use, the adhesive keeping the magnets in place had lost its strength and magnets flew out like crazy. Tape keeps 'em in place while you hold the nylock nuts in place with pliers or a wrench. Don't remove the tape until you have completed step 8.

  • In the event a magnet does pop out, get some fast-setting glue that's rated for temperatures up to 120C. Then put tape over it to make sure it doesn't pop out again, causing a chain reaction with other magnets. It's a bitch to get them off one another if they have glue on them.

  • put nylon washers between the bed and the nylock nuts. Some people reported rattling noise after doing the nylock mod and these washers should help with that. I decided to play it safe and install such washers from the start. If anyone's interested, I can dig up the Amazon link for the ones I bought. By popular demand, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G5XSB8

  • The guide I followed advised screwing the nuts on the screws with the nylon end pointing towards the bed. It's hard to get the nuts aligned just right for that; so you may want to screw the nuts on in the other orientation first, to get some threading in the nylon. I found it's a lot easier to screw them in perfectly straight WITH the nylon pointing towards the PCB after that.

    The nylock mod is amazing and when combined with the 7x7 mesh bed leveling you can safely use the entire surface of your heated bed without having to worry about prints coming loose due to bed level variance.
u/crua9 · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

So here is what you can do.

​

  1. Check the side door on the extruder. Make sure it isn't too tight or lose. If you don't know how to check, then please let us know.
  2. Check the filament. Basically, check to see if it has too much water in it or if the size is all over. Even if you're getting normal looking walls, if there is too much water this will require higher temp to work. If the filament is pretty new, then you don't have to worry about water being a problem.
  3. Check if there is a clog. You can do the normal atomic pull stuff, or you can use cleaning filaments like the following. With pretty much any type of cleaning filament, you need to keep an eye out on when it's coming out of the nozzle. It's clear for a few seconds before it gets cold. If there is stuff inside then you will see it within the clear coming out. https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cleaning+filament&qid=1555863155&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (NOTE there is a few different brands. Pick whichever you trust. There could be a wide gap in price. But you only need 1 of them since you will hardly ever use it. I bought mine a good year ago and maybe only used 10% of it.)
  4. Check for this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSPPrb0J8CY&feature=youtu.be (I'm thinking this might be your problem, but everything above is far easier to deal with)
u/ArmstrongTREX · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

I am mostly recommending tools rather than consumables (like a truck load of filaments :P)

A digital caliper, use it every single day, must have. A $20 Chinese made should be more than sufficient for the tolerance we are printing at.

A pair of good quality side cutter. Prusa printers don’t come with them.
Hakko Micro Cutter

A Noga deburring tool. Very useful for finishing a print and trim sharp edges (brims for example). Cuts plastic like butter.
Noga Deburring Tool

A set of taps. Can’t get very strong thread in plastic, but often good enough. I would prefer a metric set.

A vise. Depends on how much space you have. I use a drill press vise and I find it ok so far.

u/bobstro · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Trying out different nozzle sizes is a great upgrade. For $100, you can buy a quite a few hardened steel nozzles that will give you more to play with and be as effective as a single ruby. The ruby was designed for very exotic abrasive materials. For anything you're likely to print, hardened steel is more than enough.

If you're not going to be printing abrasive materials, plan brass or nickel-plated copper are even cheaper. You can have a lot of fun with $100 worth of nozzles. The nozzles aren't of the best quality, but this nozzle kit does include a 16mm spanner/wrench & 7mm socket, which really make swapping nozzles out much easier. The nozzles are fine for plain PLA and just trying things out. Start with that assortment, then buy the sizes you want to use most often in genuine E3D nozzles. I've gone with hardened steel 0.40mm, 0.60mm and nickel-plated copper 0.25mm E3D nozzles.

My notes on nozzle sizes and types here.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Just get one of these tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzles-Replacement-Spanner-Installation/dp/B0796C4S5P/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nozzle+tool&qid=1573594600&sr=8-1

The red handled one is the most important piece. If you just hold the heat block stable with a pair of pliers (like the ones that ship with the printer), and use the red tool, it will be super easy. Without it, it can be mildly tricky and/or frustrating. Highly recommend the tool as I change nozzles often and it has been really helpful for me.

Oh, and make sure to do all of this at 285C, careful not to touch anywhere near it so you don't burn yourself.

u/rogaldorn · 4 pointsr/prusa3d
u/kwx · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Once you have multiple rolls of filament, I'd suggest getting a well-sealing plastic box for them to store them with a mini dehumidifier. I got this one, no power needed except when refreshing it: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS/

I also found the following useful for the build which others had already mentioned:

  • a screwdriver-style Allen wrench for 2.5mm since that's by far the most frequently used
  • flush clippers
  • good illumination, get an extra lamp if needed
  • a granite countertop for checking if the frame is level

    Enjoy the build! I'd recommend using the online instructions and checking comments left by others.
u/hyrulejedi86 · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

Check this one out on Amazon. It's a meanwell as previously posted but slimmer. I bought this myself when my power source died recently. It has been perfect so far and is thinner than the factory one. I liked this but had to reprint the mount and lengthen the wires going to the board. Worth it in the end.
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RmR2AbG1XW1EY

u/ThatBeRutkowski · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

I am on my third psu now. Yes, that is the correct fuse and it supposed to be slow blow. It's an exact replacement.

Bad news is, I'm almost certain It's not just the fuse that is blown. The mk3's psu's are well known to fail, and while some people say that there are just bad apples, I think the psu can't handle the higher draw when printing higher temp materials. If you were to open up your psu, I'm almost certain you would find the permanent on board fuse soldered to the board to be blown as well, and possibly also one of the components busted and burnt where it failed. Prusa will replace the psu under warranty, but in my case it just happened a second time. Same thing.

So here is what I would do if I were you. Go on Amazon and buy this. Not only is this psu way more reliable than the cheap Chinese one prusa ships with, it is capable of much more and will not fail you. Well worth the 30 bucks. This is the mount you will need to print to attach it to the printer. This fits perfectly, and uses mostly the screws and nuts from the stock psu except for one kind of screw you need 5 of. I made the upgrade and it is so much better than the stock psu. It has a fan that makes the printer slightly louder and it runs intermittently, but it also gets rid of the ticking from the heated bet and makes everything run a bit smoother. You can either hook up the replacement prusa sends you temporarily in order to print the mount, or you can do what I did and hook the meanwell up next to the printer to print the mount then mount it properly. Just be careful if you do as there will be exposed terminals that could shock you.

There is a great write up on the prusa forum detailing exactly how to do this and everything you need

u/flyingcloud · 1 pointr/prusa3d

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

u/KLAM3R0N · 1 pointr/prusa3d

It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)

It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/


I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.

u/techyg · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

Glue stick is definitely a great way to reduce adhesion. It works great until that one time when you forget to do it, and then you end up ruining your PEI sticker.. I've done that twice to mine.

I switched to the textured PEI sheet, and it's no worry at all- no glue stick needed, it cools and the prints pop right off even with PETG. Since the PRUSA sheet wasn't available, I ordered one from "Thekkiinnggg" on Amazon. Link here: https://www.amazon.com/Thekkiinngg-Double-Sided-Textured-Powder-Coated-Version/dp/B07HQZCWDV - it's a little pricey at $50 plus shipping, but works great.

u/ubermeisters · 1 pointr/prusa3d

MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12


This is the common replacement that people are using. There's some blog posts out there about the issue, as well as printed parts for this PSU.

If you're super concerned, it's a cheap upgrade.

u/MajorBummerDude · 1 pointr/prusa3d

You might even try something like this small dehumidifier. It's what I use in my "dry box". The box sits on top of my enclosure, and has a small hole leading down into the printer. I keep 2-3 rolls of filament in it at once, and that dehumidifier.

Once the crystals turn blue, I plug the dehumidifier into the wall for a couple of hours to dry it out, and right back in the box it goes.

This system has worked great for me for the past year, and was less than $30 total.

u/mcdanyel · 1 pointr/prusa3d

My silver PSU on my MK3 just died during a PETG print this week. Hoping Prusa will send me a new one, but from digging around all morning yesterday, it seems this PSU on Amazon is a good replacement with a little bit more power. This is my backup plan if my printer is not under warranty anymore.

PSU:
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DgnGDbHE4NVDW

PSU holder on Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812350

u/cadeau67 · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Okay,

Would this cartridge be okay for my prusa mk2s?

HICTOP Cartridge Heater 24V 40W for 3D Printer Prusa Mendel (Pack Of 3) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HGIMI2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EGG0CbER0SBFZ

Thanks for the help, I got worried that I would have to disassemble the whole extruder part or have to do some sketchy welding^^

u/CrazyElectrum · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Np, this is the one I have. Had it for a month now and had to dry it out only once so far.

New and Improved Eva-dry E-333... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H0XFCS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/pterencephalon · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

u/arcanemachined · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.

The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).

FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.

Hope this helped.

u/edge231 · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Before you buy a new nozzle, have you tried cleaning filament yet?

eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament 1.75mm Natural 0.1kg for all 1.75mm FDM 3D Printers, 1.75mm Cleaning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NetQBbX0VWR7E

This may help you get the gunk out of that nozzle. Run that thru it and do some cold pulls with it. It may revitalize your nozzle for a lot cheaper and you wouldn’t have to take apart your extruder to do it.

u/chking999 · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Enabling the 7x7 mode on my MK3 gave me such good bed adhesion that I don't need to use glue stick anymore. Now I just spray the bed with a some 99% alcohol and then print. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/dehydratedH2O · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

First of all, not even all of the batches of Prusa orange are exactly the same. Many people who order orange printers with a roll of orange filament find they don’t match perfectly. There are slight variations from batch to batch.

Prusa’s supplier is Filament PM. They do not have a US distributor. Their Canadian distributor has cheaper shipping to the US than Prusa. Unfortunately they are out of stock on orange right now — https://3dcustom.ca/filament?keywords=Orange%20pet&olsPage=products%2Fprusa-orange-petg-not-available

Edit: reviews also say Hatchbox orange PET is very close to Prusa, but it’s also out of stock at Amazon — https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B014VM9ALM

u/lord_nimon · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

> Mean Well LRS 350-24 power supply

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/

u/fish_taco_pirate · 1 pointr/prusa3d

As recommended, these are the one's I bought. Here's a picture as they have arrived.

u/tedder42 · 1 pointr/prusa3d

heh, no welding/soldering :)

that is NOT the right one since you have a MK2. You need a 12v one, they are all basically the same, here's a random one off amazon.ca with the right specs.

u/auge2 · 1 pointr/prusa3d

This: https://media.bahag.com/assets/resp_product/58/86/90588655_21550839.jpg

You can get those usually in hardware stores or where washing machines / dryers and so on are sold. A general "anti vibration mat".
Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/casa-pura-Anti-Vibration-Vibration-Appliances/dp/B071DVFWTW

u/AnotherStupidName · 4 pointsr/prusa3d

Micro cutter: CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2189Bb5GM55MS

Xacto knife

99% isopropyl alcohol

Windex

Acetone

Scotchbrite pad

Hex wench set

Painters tape (I only use this for the purge line for PETG)

Metric ruler

Calipers

u/newtmewt · 5 pointsr/prusa3d

See below link for 2 pics. The parts on the printer are the OEM printed in their orange. The other part and the parts on the enclosure are printed in the hatchbox orange PETG.

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Up close you can tell the difference, but if the parts are just near each other the difference isn't that noticeable.

https://imgur.com/a/YuEc66E

EDIT: link to it (not a referral link) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014VM9ALM/

u/ProbablyEatingCereal · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I think this is the one I got: Genuine E3D Thermistor Cartridge (E-SEMITEC-50-MOLEX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HNL9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oEDNBbBD51EC1

u/6p6ss6 · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I will post those pictures soon. I am traveling out of town right now. These are the PTFE fittings I used.

u/Liwanu · 1 pointr/prusa3d

The whole printed extruder assembly, ABS print cooling shrouds, extra nozzles.
M3 screw kit.
M3 square nuts.
M3 lock nuts

u/Enrique182 · 6 pointsr/prusa3d

Woke up today with a failed print and a blob on the hot end :(

I broke the thermistor wire while trying to remove the blob...can I just replace the thermistor or do I need to replace everything? I’m new to this

Is this the thermistor that fits it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HNL9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zzA2DbJW4FND6

Also, how would soldering and heat shrinking the broken wire affect the printer?

Thanks