Top products from r/prusa3d
We found 80 product mentions on r/prusa3d. We ranked the 221 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK)
Sentiment score: 8
Number of reviews: 8
Genuine E3D PartsONLY works for HotEnds which use the E3D V6 style heater block3 Pack of original high temperature non-stick silicone socks for E3D V6 HotEndsThese socks will keep your nozzle cleanThese socks really helps with sticky materials like Co-Polyesters and filled materials that like to bui...
2. MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 5
Primary output voltage (vdc): 24Output current (a): 14.6Maximum output power (w): 350Family: lrs-350Input voltage (vac): 90 to 132, 180 to 264
3. Thekkiinngg Prusa MK3 /S Double-Sided Textured Pei Powder-Coated Sheet V4
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 4
Made of high strength spring steel sheet Made of steel from U.S.A. with Pei Powder coat . We guarantee that this Bed plate contains Ultem PEI .Special coating that helps your pieces to adhere better than any other plates on market .Easy to separate the plastic parts when cooling.Rough finish of bott...
4. Eva Dry Wireless Mini Dehumidifier. Top Moisture Absorber for Small Spaces. Rechargeable & Portable. Perfect for Bedrooms, Closets, Cars, RV & Gun Safes. Removes Humidity & Helps Prevent Mold Growth
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 4
EASY TO USE: This mini dehumidifier is spill and mess free. Just hang and go! Non-toxic, child and pet safe! Your small rooms will be dry and odor free. Works for areas up to 333 cubic feetMINI DEHUMIDIFIER GOES A LONG WAY: Super dry dehumidifier unit lasts 20-30 days before recharging the silica ...
5. 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 3
Replaces stock LM8UU Bearing commonly used in many 3D PrintersFits Perfectly in 3D Printer Pillow Block. Please be aware of people who leave one star reviews, these only work if your rods are not bent. IF rods are bent, they lock up and don't work correctly. These do not need any lube or grease, the...
6. 3D Printer Nozzles + 4 DIY Tools for J-Head E3D V5 V6 0.2mm 0.3mm 0.4mm 0.5mm 0.6mm 0.8mm Nozzle Tool for Nozzle Replacement, Spanner, Installation Tools …
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 3
No more burnt fingers for you! This is a must have tool for changing print nozzles. Having the right tools makes all the difference in the world!Multi-size High-precision extruder nozzle: 0.2mm 0.3mm 0.4mm 0.5mm 0.6mm 0.8mmCompliant all M6 thread 3D printer: The nozzles used M6 thread, same as MK8 M...
7. eSUN 3D Printer Cleaning Filament 1.75mm Natural 0.1kg for All 1.75mm FDM 3D Printers, 1.75mm Cleaning
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 3
Industry's first 3D cleaning filamentExcellent heat stability, Wide cleaning temperature range of 150 to 260 celsius.Cleans the extruder's interior by removing accumulated residual filaments.Possesses a certain level of adhesive quality. Will not clog extruder.Clean the 3D printer's extruder before ...
8. Genuine E3D Hotend Thermistor Cartridge Replacement
Sentiment score: -2
Number of reviews: 3
Direct replacement of cartridge type thermistor in E3D hotends.A custom made thermistor encapsulated into an easy to use cartridge package.Genuine Semitec 104GT thermistors used.Comes with (1) Hotend Thermistor with attached connector and (1) connector cable measuring 40 inches (101cm)
9. 100Pcs M3 x 0.5mm 304 Stainless Steel Self-Lock Nylon Inserted Hex Lock Nuts, Self Clinching Nuts
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 3
- Material: 304 Stainless Steel ; - Weight: 50g;- Hole diameter: 3mm/ 0.12"; - Pitch: 0.5mm;- Package: 100 x M3 Nylon nuts; - Color: Silver;- Used for: matching screws & matching bolts.
10. casa pura Anti-Vibration Pad - Rubber Vibration Isolator Mat | Matting for Washing Machines, Washers, Dryers and Appliances | Multiple Thicknesses & Sizes | 1/4" Thick - 24" x 24"
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
STRONG RUBBER: This anti-vibration pad is made with 100% recycled rubber particles, compressed for maximum sound dampeningMINIMIZE VIBRATION: Most washing machines are prone to vibrate and cause excessive noise during the spin cycle and potentially damaging the floor. casa pura rubber mats absorb vi...
11. MG Chemicals 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner, 945 mL Liquid Bottle
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
99.9% Anhydrous solvent—Removes water and humidity from components leaving them dryMeets reagent ACSMeets MIL Spec TT-I-735A and ASTM D770Less than 0.001 g/100 mL non-volatile residuesSuitable for use in food facilities as a non-food chemical. NSF International registration #144029Low toxicitySafe...
12. HATCHBOX PETG 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Orange
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
1KG (approximately 2.2 lbs) SpoolPETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol-Modified) 3D Printer Filament Vacuumed Sealed With DesiccantRecommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 230°C - 260°C (446°F - 500°F)1.75mm Filament Diameter (Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm)Spool Diameter: 8" - Spool Width: 2...
13. HICTOP Cartridge Heater 24V 40W for Creality Ender 3 3 Pro Ender 5 CR-10S Pro 3D Printer Prusa Mendel (Pack of 3)
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
[Material]: Stainless steel (304)[Voltage]: 24V. Power: 40W.[Application]:Creality Ender 3 3 Pro Ender 5 CR-10S Pro 3D Printer Prusa Mendel[Diameter]: 6mm. Length: 20mm,Wire Length:1M[SERVICE COMMITMENTS]: We offer 90 Days Money Back Warranty. If you unsatisfied with the quality of our product, you ...
14. Micro Cutter
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Flush-cut micro soft-wire cutter has 8mm long jaw with angled head for flush-cutting applications on up to 16 gauge (1.3mm) copper and soft wire21-degree2.5mm heat-treated carbon steel construction provides durability and long lifePrecision-ground holes and surfaces provide smooth movement, and spri...
15. Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Patented synthetic NLGI grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricantDielectric, Food Grade, CleanNSF Rating H-1, safe for incidental food contactWill not drip, run or evaporate
16. uxcell Nylon Flat Washers M3 6mm OD 3mm ID 0.5mm Thickness Sealing Gasket for Faucet Pipe Water Hose, Clear, Pack of 200
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
[Size] - 6mm(0.24 Inch) OD 3mm(0.12 Inch) ID 0.5mm(0.02 Inch) Thickness[Application] - Used for faucet pipe, hose bolt, valve, or other gardening maintenance or retrofit[Function] - It can prevent the pipe from leaking and provide positive shut off, stop leaks to save energy[Advantage] - Durable nyl...
17. Yaatao 6 Pieces Mini Brass Wire Brush Set for Cleaning Welding Slag and Rust
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Mini Brass Wire Brush Length: 170 mm.Package Includes: 6 brass brushes.Good Quality: The handles are made of plastic, convenient for you to hold and control.Use this wire brush to cleaning steel parts, machinery, paint stains etc.Easy to keep: Each wire brushes has a hole, special design is convenie...
18. ewikkeit Ceramic Cartridge Heater 12V 40W 620 Hotend for 3D Printer Prusa Mendel(Pack of 5pcs)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Heater Material: 304 Stainless Steel,Diameter: 6mm ; Length: 20mmVoltage: 12V, Power: 40W, Conveniently pre-wired with 1 meter long high temperature Teflon insulated wiringCartridge heaters is consist of a cylindrical stainless steel tube and thus provide a high corrosion preventionCompatible with C...
19. BIQU PC4-M10 Male Straight Pneumatic PEFE Tube Push for E3D-V6 Fitting Connector Bowden Extruder 3D Printer (Pack of 10pcs)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
10 x PC4-M10 pneumatic male straight quick connector for E3D-V6 long-distance bowden extruder 3D printerPTFE Tubing Outer Diameter: 4 mm. Thread: 6mmThe upper part(black) can be inserted 4mm PTFE tube and self-lockingMade of high quality stainless steel, oxidation resistant and rust resistant, incre...
20. Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver Screwdrivers, ProGuard Finish, sizes 1.27-5mm
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 2
Angle entry up to 25 degrees on sizes 1.27, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, and 5mmComfortGrip handles are designed for maximum torque with ultimate comfort and gripTools are Made in the USA with Bondhus proprietary Protanium steel and are up to 20% stronger than competitor toolsProGuard Finish is 5 times more e...
A few thoughts:
Lastly: don't doubt the design! I got mine (assembled) mid-December last year and it has worked perfectly. Er... except for a replacement power supply and PINDA probe, but those were easy to diagnose, Prusa sent parts w/no fuss, and replacement was straightforward. You'll get a newer/better version, but it's a solid design to start: don't monkey with it and it will work like a champ.
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8 bit boards are the reason prints are slow. They just can't calculate fast enough for precision. Some new affordable 32 bit boards are finally starting to show up. I'm guessing Prusa will design his own 32bit board.
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Maybe a custom E3D hotend that can produce enough heat to keep up with faster print speeds.
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I think a more polished way of doing the nylock mod will be part of the printer. I'm quite happy with the process of the nylock mod now in conjunction with the plugin that helps with the process big time.
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I'd love to see a larger print volume at the very least in the z axis. I swapped the smooth rod bearings out for these and that took an already quiet quiet printer to a whole new level of quiet and NO MORE OIL. They are impregnated with lubricant.
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I'd LOVE to see a better way to mount the whole extruder assembly to the z axis rails. You can over tighten the screws and put too much tension on the bearings (both my new ones and the stock metal ones) and restrict movement enough cause homing issues. I do my best not to ever over tighten certain screws and it still happens once in a while. I've gotten used to it but a better way to mount it would be appreciated.
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Maybe a few built in LEDs around the hotend and even a more visible nozzle end. Have the fan duct on the back side or something.
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One last thing would be a better main board housing that better handles the cables going into the bod. Maybe two entry points so securing the cables going into the box isn't so extremely tight fitting.
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Ok, one last last thing. No more tiny pieces/tiny 'appendages' on large parts that can easily break off. I know that may not be possible but why not mention it.
> Even if I manage to get it to stick right, the booger on the nozzle starts pulling up my first layer.
Yeah, you should really get a sock for the hotend. Get the one with a tiny hole for the nozzle. Really. Order a few today from Amazon. Today. For me, it's not worth trying to print PETG without a sock.
Also, one thing I do is print a skirt (not brim) that is three lines wide (or even more for a small model), 15 mm away from the model, and only 1 layer deep. Any snot left on the nozzle from the purge gets wiped off. HOWEVER, that can leave a snot blob on the skirt, and so (a) the skirt can get pulled away from the sheet, and (b) if if not, the second layer of the skirt can fail. That's why I print the skirt 15 mm away from the model, and only one layer. If you manage to get the skirt printed this way (even with blobs and the skirt loose), and have a nozzle with a sock, chances are pretty good everything else will work. This has increased my yield with PETG prints dramatically.
Of course, you need a clean bed, etc.
It's actually pretty amazing --- I sometimes get horrible looking skirts, with portions detached from the heatbed, big blobs, etc., and then a beautiful part printed inside the skirt.
The one downside is that the single layer skirt can be really hard to remove. I use a part I printed (for another purpose) that is shaped a bit like an air hockey striker --- it's a disk with a handle essentially. I just slide the striker against the skirt to break it free.
> Sorry, I'm just feeling pretty defeated at the moment. I wish mr prusa would stop by and tune up my printer for me.
Have hope! Try my method. But if it works, you have to post your print!
> Damn thing start streaming filament out as soon as the temp hits 205C.
That's super weird. Either it's wet, or your hotend thermistor is way off.
Is this happening on a filament change? I've actually had residual Hatchbox PLA filament squirt out of the nozzle when loading PETG. But after loading everything was fine.
I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)
I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.
So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.
Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/
And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM
Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377
Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:
Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)
Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW
Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S
Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit
these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.
Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.
Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.
But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.
I had the same issue.
It's actually really easy to take apart and get to the extruder if you want to check everything.
Unscrew the fans and let them dangle to the side, then you unscrew the parts that are holding the extruder in there. After that you should be able to wiggle the whole thing out.
But honestly, just by looking at your picture, it doesn't look like you have heat creep, or plastic issues. So I doubt it's going to be an issue with the heat break, block, or anything like that. So probably just the heater cartridge.
I was just in your shoes, and successfully spliced a new heater cartridge onto my old wires.
Basically snip off the old wire about 6-8 inches down, strip the wire coating, and splice on a new heater cartridge.
This is the bundle of heater cartridges I got from Amazon. They work perfectly with my MK3. The cartridge itself is slightly longer than the base, but still works without issues.
Also to make splicing easier and faster I got these and they have been working really great.
I agree with /u/DesignFlaw06. The MMU2S is not difficult to assemble or use. It does add a few possible problems but they're negligible in the long run. Single color prints still work fine, you just have to
Load to Nozzle
the desired color after each printer reset, before starting the first single color print - other than that it works just like before, and you can print your old single color gcode without problem. I would definitely print this M10 passthrough adapter and use that instead of the stock one. It does require 5x m10 adapters which you can get here for $7, but is significantly better than the press fit design of the original.I haven't had any problems with my MMU2S since I swapped for the M10 adapter plate. I haven't tried using any dissolving supports yet but it's definitely on my list of things to try.
Edit: In my experience, if you forget to
Load to Nozzle
after a reset and before starting a print, on the first single color print the MK3S will run the mesh bed leveling and then prompt to do aLoad to Nozzle
anyway, but will do so right against the bed leaving a mess on the nozzle. Not a huge deal at all, it's just a tad annoying since it gets filament on the nozzle and can screw up your first layer. After first turning on the printer, I prefer to move the extruder up maybe 100mm off the bed, then do aLoad to Nozzle
, pull the filament trail left from the "swap", then start my print. This is the same as if you had manually swapped filament without the MMU2S. I am using a slightly older MMU2S firmware so it's possible they've changed this behaviour in the newest firmwares. I only have to do this when turning the printer off and on or doing a reset -- otherwise I can just keep printing and printing as long as I want without doing aLoad to Nozzle
Skip the ruby nozzle, it's only necessary if you are printing a lot of abrasive filaments like wood, magnetic, carbon fiber, etc. Get it when (if) you need it. The stock nozzle will print PLA and PETG for ages before requiring replacement.
Same goes for the smaller nozzle, again, unless you are planning on using it right away. Smaller nozzles are great for finer details, but will typically greatly reduce your print speed, especially on really low layer heights like 0.05mm. They also really require you to have your settings, extruder and Z-height dialed in, something you're not going to be ready for right away if you're new to 3D printing.
As for tools, what comes in the box will get you by (assuming you purchased a kit, not assembled). A pair of fine-tipped tweezers is also useful. Side-cutting pliers. Also, highly recommend a proper set of ball-end hex screwdrivers instead of those God-awful hex keys.
Thekkiinngg Prusa MK3/S Double-Sided Textured PEI Powder-Coated Sheet V4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQZCWDV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?
It's been great. I may have even gotten the V3- it discolored just a touch when I first printed on it, just kind of a weird rainbow effect in the right light... but it's been printing like a champ for the last 500 hours or so of use. In fact, I'm printing Terminator Rex on it right now. =)
I'd also
I can dig up the Amazon link for the ones I bought. By popular demand, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G5XSB8The nylock mod is amazing and when combined with the 7x7 mesh bed leveling you can safely use the entire surface of your heated bed without having to worry about prints coming loose due to bed level variance.
So here is what you can do.
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I am mostly recommending tools rather than consumables (like a truck load of filaments :P)
A digital caliper, use it every single day, must have. A $20 Chinese made should be more than sufficient for the tolerance we are printing at.
A pair of good quality side cutter. Prusa printers don’t come with them.
Hakko Micro Cutter
A Noga deburring tool. Very useful for finishing a print and trim sharp edges (brims for example). Cuts plastic like butter.
Noga Deburring Tool
A set of taps. Can’t get very strong thread in plastic, but often good enough. I would prefer a metric set.
A vise. Depends on how much space you have. I use a drill press vise and I find it ok so far.
Trying out different nozzle sizes is a great upgrade. For $100, you can buy a quite a few hardened steel nozzles that will give you more to play with and be as effective as a single ruby. The ruby was designed for very exotic abrasive materials. For anything you're likely to print, hardened steel is more than enough.
If you're not going to be printing abrasive materials, plan brass or nickel-plated copper are even cheaper. You can have a lot of fun with $100 worth of nozzles. The nozzles aren't of the best quality, but this nozzle kit does include a 16mm spanner/wrench & 7mm socket, which really make swapping nozzles out much easier. The nozzles are fine for plain PLA and just trying things out. Start with that assortment, then buy the sizes you want to use most often in genuine E3D nozzles. I've gone with hardened steel 0.40mm, 0.60mm and nickel-plated copper 0.25mm E3D nozzles.
My notes on nozzle sizes and types here.
Just get one of these tools:
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzles-Replacement-Spanner-Installation/dp/B0796C4S5P/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nozzle+tool&qid=1573594600&sr=8-1
The red handled one is the most important piece. If you just hold the heat block stable with a pair of pliers (like the ones that ship with the printer), and use the red tool, it will be super easy. Without it, it can be mildly tricky and/or frustrating. Highly recommend the tool as I change nozzles often and it has been really helpful for me.
Oh, and make sure to do all of this at 285C, careful not to touch anywhere near it so you don't burn yourself.
https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK-x/dp/B07779TP4S
Once you have multiple rolls of filament, I'd suggest getting a well-sealing plastic box for them to store them with a mini dehumidifier. I got this one, no power needed except when refreshing it: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS/
I also found the following useful for the build which others had already mentioned:
Enjoy the build! I'd recommend using the online instructions and checking comments left by others.
Check this one out on Amazon. It's a meanwell as previously posted but slimmer. I bought this myself when my power source died recently. It has been perfect so far and is thinner than the factory one. I liked this but had to reprint the mount and lengthen the wires going to the board. Worth it in the end.
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RmR2AbG1XW1EY
I am on my third psu now. Yes, that is the correct fuse and it supposed to be slow blow. It's an exact replacement.
Bad news is, I'm almost certain It's not just the fuse that is blown. The mk3's psu's are well known to fail, and while some people say that there are just bad apples, I think the psu can't handle the higher draw when printing higher temp materials. If you were to open up your psu, I'm almost certain you would find the permanent on board fuse soldered to the board to be blown as well, and possibly also one of the components busted and burnt where it failed. Prusa will replace the psu under warranty, but in my case it just happened a second time. Same thing.
So here is what I would do if I were you. Go on Amazon and buy this. Not only is this psu way more reliable than the cheap Chinese one prusa ships with, it is capable of much more and will not fail you. Well worth the 30 bucks. This is the mount you will need to print to attach it to the printer. This fits perfectly, and uses mostly the screws and nuts from the stock psu except for one kind of screw you need 5 of. I made the upgrade and it is so much better than the stock psu. It has a fan that makes the printer slightly louder and it runs intermittently, but it also gets rid of the ticking from the heated bet and makes everything run a bit smoother. You can either hook up the replacement prusa sends you temporarily in order to print the mount, or you can do what I did and hook the meanwell up next to the printer to print the mount then mount it properly. Just be careful if you do as there will be exposed terminals that could shock you.
There is a great write up on the prusa forum detailing exactly how to do this and everything you need
+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.
It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)
It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/
I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.
Glue stick is definitely a great way to reduce adhesion. It works great until that one time when you forget to do it, and then you end up ruining your PEI sticker.. I've done that twice to mine.
I switched to the textured PEI sheet, and it's no worry at all- no glue stick needed, it cools and the prints pop right off even with PETG. Since the PRUSA sheet wasn't available, I ordered one from "Thekkiinnggg" on Amazon. Link here: https://www.amazon.com/Thekkiinngg-Double-Sided-Textured-Powder-Coated-Version/dp/B07HQZCWDV - it's a little pricey at $50 plus shipping, but works great.
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12
This is the common replacement that people are using. There's some blog posts out there about the issue, as well as printed parts for this PSU.
If you're super concerned, it's a cheap upgrade.
You might even try something like this small dehumidifier. It's what I use in my "dry box". The box sits on top of my enclosure, and has a small hole leading down into the printer. I keep 2-3 rolls of filament in it at once, and that dehumidifier.
Once the crystals turn blue, I plug the dehumidifier into the wall for a couple of hours to dry it out, and right back in the box it goes.
This system has worked great for me for the past year, and was less than $30 total.
My silver PSU on my MK3 just died during a PETG print this week. Hoping Prusa will send me a new one, but from digging around all morning yesterday, it seems this PSU on Amazon is a good replacement with a little bit more power. This is my backup plan if my printer is not under warranty anymore.
PSU:
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DgnGDbHE4NVDW
PSU holder on Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812350
Okay,
Would this cartridge be okay for my prusa mk2s?
HICTOP Cartridge Heater 24V 40W for 3D Printer Prusa Mendel (Pack Of 3) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HGIMI2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EGG0CbER0SBFZ
Thanks for the help, I got worried that I would have to disassemble the whole extruder part or have to do some sketchy welding^^
Np, this is the one I have. Had it for a month now and had to dry it out only once so far.
New and Improved Eva-dry E-333... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H0XFCS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Nozzle sock
I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.
Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.
The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).
FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.
Hope this helped.
Before you buy a new nozzle, have you tried cleaning filament yet?
eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament 1.75mm Natural 0.1kg for all 1.75mm FDM 3D Printers, 1.75mm Cleaning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NetQBbX0VWR7E
This may help you get the gunk out of that nozzle. Run that thru it and do some cold pulls with it. It may revitalize your nozzle for a lot cheaper and you wouldn’t have to take apart your extruder to do it.
Enabling the 7x7 mode on my MK3 gave me such good bed adhesion that I don't need to use glue stick anymore. Now I just spray the bed with a some 99% alcohol and then print. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First of all, not even all of the batches of Prusa orange are exactly the same. Many people who order orange printers with a roll of orange filament find they don’t match perfectly. There are slight variations from batch to batch.
Prusa’s supplier is Filament PM. They do not have a US distributor. Their Canadian distributor has cheaper shipping to the US than Prusa. Unfortunately they are out of stock on orange right now — https://3dcustom.ca/filament?keywords=Orange%20pet&olsPage=products%2Fprusa-orange-petg-not-available
Edit: reviews also say Hatchbox orange PET is very close to Prusa, but it’s also out of stock at Amazon — https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B014VM9ALM
Something like this
> Mean Well LRS 350-24 power supply
This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/
As recommended, these are the one's I bought. Here's a picture as they have arrived.
Both are sold on Amazon in the US
https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Weathertight-Storage-60-Quart-Clear/dp/B01LXWZHWV/
https://www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier/dp/B000H0XFCS
Also been meaning to get a humidity sensor to see when the dehumidifier needs recharging: https://www.amazon.com/Veanic-Electronic-Temperature-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B07GNMKYCZ
heh, no welding/soldering :)
that is NOT the right one since you have a MK2. You need a 12v one, they are all basically the same, here's a random one off amazon.ca with the right specs.
This: https://media.bahag.com/assets/resp_product/58/86/90588655_21550839.jpg
You can get those usually in hardware stores or where washing machines / dryers and so on are sold. A general "anti vibration mat".
Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/casa-pura-Anti-Vibration-Vibration-Appliances/dp/B071DVFWTW
Micro cutter: CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2189Bb5GM55MS
Xacto knife
99% isopropyl alcohol
Windex
Acetone
Scotchbrite pad
Hex wench set
Painters tape (I only use this for the purge line for PETG)
Metric ruler
Calipers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796C4S5P/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQZCWDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HkIRBbMK27K4Q
See below link for 2 pics. The parts on the printer are the OEM printed in their orange. The other part and the parts on the enclosure are printed in the hatchbox orange PETG.
​
Up close you can tell the difference, but if the parts are just near each other the difference isn't that noticeable.
https://imgur.com/a/YuEc66E
EDIT: link to it (not a referral link) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014VM9ALM/
I think this is the one I got: Genuine E3D Thermistor Cartridge (E-SEMITEC-50-MOLEX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HNL9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oEDNBbBD51EC1
I will post those pictures soon. I am traveling out of town right now. These are the PTFE fittings I used.
The whole printed extruder assembly, ABS print cooling shrouds, extra nozzles.
M3 screw kit.
M3 square nuts.
M3 lock nuts
Buy some extruder socks to avoid this problem next time.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S
I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HNL9MR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
stupid things break if you look at them wrong.
Woke up today with a failed print and a blob on the hot end :(
I broke the thermistor wire while trying to remove the blob...can I just replace the thermistor or do I need to replace everything? I’m new to this
Is this the thermistor that fits it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HNL9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zzA2DbJW4FND6
Also, how would soldering and heat shrinking the broken wire affect the printer?
Thanks