Hey!

I totally know where you’re coming from. we brought home our toy poodle 2 weeks ago (he’s 11 weeks today) and I am home with him during 9-5 hours while my boyfriend helps out evenings and weekends. The first week I genuinely considered returning him because I felt so overwhelmed despite doing an absurd amount of research and having had 2 other family dogs where I wasn’t the primary caretaker lol. The breeder had him potty trained and crate trained and said he was the first of his litter to run to the food bowl but the first week he came home with us he whined in his crate + playpen, pooped on the floor and became a finicky eater lol

I can say even though I’m still struggling with a few things (he’s a pretty shy pup who's not food motivated, hates his playpen, and doesn't understand kongs lol ) I’m feeling better and seeing sooo much progress in our little man since he first came home.

Here are some things that work for us:

Crate training: This will take time and will also require some patience and understanding on your end - there will likely be whining and the best thing you can do is IGNORE IT - this is of course as long as your puppies needs are met - before ever putting him into the crate make sure he’s peed and isn’t hungry/thirsty. The #1 thing you need to be aware of is that if you let him out while he’s whining he will associate whining = attention/freedom.

• Crate games Personally, we didn’t use crate games because when I tried I felt the same frustration lol. We have a T-shirts that smell like us in his crate + his favourite (safe) toy that he can only cuddle/play with while he’s in there to make it attractive place. Our dog isn’t food motivated either but we’ve discovered dehydrated raw treats are like crack to him lol. We use a high value treat (dehydrated raw beef liver) to lure him into the crate while saying “bedtime” and then we close the door. He’ll whine during the day sometimes when he’s overtired but never at night and actually goes in willingly on his own to relax.
  
• Nighttime: set alarms before he starts whining. In our case we sleep at 11pm and have alarms for 2am, 5am and 7:45am - you’ll need to monitor when he starts to whine and set your alarms for ~10-15 mins beforehand to avoid reinforcing whining. I also recommend sticking to night time crating rather than playpen to work off a dogs need for consistency.
  
• Enforced naps: these are a god send. Pups need to sleep roughly 18-20 hours a day. For every 45-1 hour that your puppy is awake lure him into his crate for a 1-2 hour nap. I use a wyze camera (https://www.amazon.ca/Wyze-Wireless-Camera-Android-Version/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3J0J18TA1JUKO&keywords=wyze&qid=1565737568&s=gateway&sprefix=wyze%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-3) to monitor any sounds/movements in his crate and make sure I get to him to let him out to pee before he has a chance to start whining on his own. (Currently typing this as he’s napping away lol). You will get some free time to do as you please + puppy will wake up refreshed and happy (note: less nipping, more attentive!)
  
• Note: even if you successfully lure him into the crate he will likely still whine at times - I G N O R E. I can’t stress this enough. The sooner he learns whining = no reaction, the sooner he’ll learn to settle and nap. First week our puppy whined ~5 minutes each time, now it’s ~30 seconds max and MUCH less frequent. Consistency is key.
  
  Routine: Like I said our pup is awake for ~1 hour intervals throughout the day. Because pups do better with set schedules, I follow the same routine every hour and he seems to be doing better with this routine. Essentially what we do is : Wake up, pee, Train (5-10 mins max with his kibble or toys - like your ours isn’t food motivated but enjoys WORKING for his food, other times he’s more willing to work for toys so that could also be worth a try), fetch (physical exercise indoors), Train (5-10 mins max), play, leash train (indoors), play, pee, nap.
  
  
• Physical exercise: A tired pup is a happy pup - but keep in mind there’s a fine line between proper exercise for a puppy and overstimulation - we’ve been doing 5-10 minutes of indoor fetch every hour awake and it looks like the perfect balance for us - you’ll have to play with this figure a little to see what works best but I promise the whining is bound to decrease if he’s already sleepy before crate time
  
• Mental stimulation: poodles (and poodle crosses) are prone to getting bored without enough mental stimulation = excess whining. Mental stimulation includes feeder toys, puzzle games AND training. Our guy doesn’t really appreciate his kong lol but we have this (https://www.amazon.ca/Smart-Treat-Dispensing-Exercise-Ottosson/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1ZZNTTRIW62SD&keywords=nina+ottosson&qid=1565738495&s=gateway&sprefix=nina+ott%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-5) and we bring it out once or twice a day - sometimes he won’t even eat the food in the holes but he likes figuring out the puzzle lol
  
• Instilling independence: Okay so this is an area where I’ve noticed a BIG change since taking it seriously. The more you work on training commands, the more independence you’re installing in your pup. The more independent he feels, the more he can handle being alone, the outside world, scary interactions, etc. I’m not sure if you’ve done any puppy socialization classes or are looking into puppy training but I’d recommend finding a reputable one in your area and giving it a try. For training at home, we've had a lot of success with: https://www.youtube.com/user/kikopup
  
  Other tips:
  
  
• Bully Sticks: these things can be a god send if you need some time to yourself. The first time we gave our puppy one he went wild for it and left us alone for an hour. The second time, he held it in his mouth and whined his face off lol. We realized our mistake was making it available to him too frequently in a short period of time. Keep high-value items like this a special occasion treat to maintain it’s value.
  
• Toys: rotate toys. Have 2-3 toys out for a few days at a time, and learn which ones he gravitates to. You’ll discover which toys are high value + by rotating them he’ll get excited when his fav one from a certain batch is back in his turf. Take the high-value ones and make them crate only toys if they are safe to be played with unsupervised!
  
• Kong: I wish I could give you advice here because the Kong was a god send for our other dogs. The advice that’s been given to me is teach him how to use it. Youtube is good for this but at the end of the day, some dogs just don’t like the kong. If you do want to use this or other puzzle feeders/treat toys DON’T increase the value of the treat if he’s disinterested. He’ll learn that he can ignore his kibble/low-value treats and hold out for the better stuff and you’ll end up with a finicky eater.
  
• Daycare: Find a reputable one in your area bc it sounds like you need a little break and some socialization will be good for the little guy if you’re not looking into puppy classes or socialization classes.
  
  Hope this helps in some way shape or form, feel free to message me if you need to vent, compare puppy problems or ask any questions :)

>My hands look like someone tossed me in a thorn bush.

This is a different issue. Biting is how your puppy wants to interact with you, chewing is to help with teething pain.

For the biting, This video is only 3 mins long & will teach you why they bite & how to fix it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT0nteyHI_M

Ok now chewing. Teething is pretty painful, and for a dog there are 2 ways to ease the pain, Cold & pressure. The pressure to the teeth is what reliefs pain & is why puppy's become such frantic chewers.

Think of being massively in pain, opening your medicine cabinet and grabbing one of every pill that might help resolve it. That's what your puppy is doing, except instead of pills its your furniture & belongings.

So to help your puppies pain relief, give him things that are easy to fit inside of his mouth to reach the back teeth, and things that he can really sink his teeth into.

Heres what I've used personally,




Kong rubber toys :

[ Bone ] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Extreme-Goodie-Bone-Dog/dp/B0115C7BL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491011147&sr=8-1&keywords=kong%2Bbone&th=1)

[ Frisbee ] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Flyer-Dog-Toy-Large/dp/B000BRTADK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491011205&sr=1-1&keywords=frisbee)

[ Kong ] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Extreme-Dog-Toy-Large/dp/B0002AR0II/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491011238&sr=1-4&keywords=kong&th=1)

The above toys are great and long lasting. The nice thing about the kong & kong bone is they can be filled with food and frozen. This gives additional pain relief & more interest in the toy. We use peanut butter.

The frisbee is awesome, its softer then kongs and has a lip that they can use to get behind teeth. Its also great for fetch & tug. I've used one for tug with a full grown lab. It didnt rip at all.


Other toys :

[Rope ball] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nuts-Knots-Ball-Extra-Large/dp/B003TL3YM8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491011557&sr=1-5&keywords=rope+ball)

[Teddy bear] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Knots-Medium-Large-Colors/dp/B014JZKVCS/ref=pd_lpo_199_bs_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=1RVKHA4CCB5FY2AGAQJH&th=1)

[Stick thing] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/West-Paw-Design-Zogoflex-Hurley/dp/B004A7X21I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491011862&sr=1-1&keywords=Zogoflex)

[Busy buddy] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/PetSafe-Busy-Buddy-Ultra-Stratos/dp/B00YHPNS8U/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491012072&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=Busy+Buddy&psc=1)

[fill with water and freeze melon] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rosewood-Watermelon-BioSafe-Dog-Toy/dp/B00M1WYUCE/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491012124&sr=1-2&keywords=Watermelon)

[Duck and giraffe rope toys] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/wangstar-Cotton-Clearing-Animal-Giraffe/dp/B01MYZ94VH/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491012244&sr=1-1&keywords=duck+and+giraffe+rope)

We got the above and they can all be frozen apart from the stick & busy buddy. We've also found this selection to give variety in what shes chewing, which is important as dogs quickly get bored of a chew if its not providing enough relief or interest.


Dog Food items :

[Meat filled bone] (http://www.petsathome.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/pets/angus-filled-liver-bone)

[Pork roll] (http://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets/hollings-pork-roll-dog-treat)

[Beef hide] (http://www.petsathome.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/pets/hollings-beef-hide-dog-treat-small)

[Pigs ear] (http://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets/hollings-pig-ear-dog-treat-regular)

The hide rolls ( pork n beef) are my best finds to date. They are hard but soften with chewing, my dog uses them for both chewing on back teeth and pulling apart with front teeth, and they last for days ( 4mo husky chewing is pretty intense so days is high praise ). Meat filled bones are ok-ish, they are a hit n miss depending on the fillings. I'm probably not going to get another one as I think buying a chicken or beef based filling for a kong would be better. They do require super vision. Pig ears are fantastic for the same reason as the rolls, although they only last an hour or two.


Pet safe household food :

Carrots : Great from the fridge, cold and crunchy gives great relief. and they are good for the pooch too. Dont freeze fresh carrots turn to messy mush when they thaw out. I'm talking from experience -.-

Sweet potatoes : peel and give. They have great vitamins for your pooch, are crunchy and tasty from the fridge. Do not use normal potatoes, they are not safe.

Frozen peas : Good pain relief, but be careful as access can cause a laxative effect. Use more as a treat then a chew.

Fresh and frozen broccoli : crunchy and super healthy

Bones : Only do this if you have trained against resource guarding. I give my pooch meat bones to pick, then take the bone away when the meats gone. Cooked bones are dangerous as they splinter, so supervision must be given the entire time. Chicken bones & other small bones are a hell no. For example I gave her a leg of lamb bone recently, she picked it for the meat then i took it away.


Homemade toys :

T-shirt rope :

When my pups front teeth where coming through, she found a lot of her toys too hard to play with. So i made a rope toy out of an old tshirt. I basically cut one side of the tshirt, then cut it into 3 strips. Then I platted it. This is great as its super soft, and strechy.

Heres a video guide to making a more elaborate one then I did :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXbS-XIa-CQ


Frozen rag :

I actually used left over t-shirt for this. Simply soak a piece of cloth or a rag, and freeze it. Makes a great fun chew.


Sock and bottle :

A 500ml empty coke bottle, with the lid on, in a sock, Tied up. The sock stops them ripping up the plastic bottle and hurting themselves, and the bottle is fun for them due to the crunchy noise it makes.



It's important to mention, never give your dog more then 2-3 toys at a time. Or they will learn its ok to chew on everything.

Many people think that because corgis are bossy and stubborn they need to be forceful with training - which isn't the case. Corgis are actually (generally) pretty sensitive dogs despite their bossiness, so using these old fashioned dominance methods are just hurting your relationship with your dog.

He is 4 months old - he has been ALIVE 4 months! You need to be patient and consistent with him. You are not going to be able to expect him to have a perfect recall, bite inhibition, play and bathroom habits at this age - it is like expecting a 3 year old to act like a 18 year old - they do not have the mental capacity, the focus or the skill to be more than what they are - a baby.

Get into a puppy kindergarten class at a local club that specializes in positive reinforcement. Kindergarten will help your puppy with socialization (which will help with basic manners, bite inhibition and will be CRITICAL to their success as an adult dog). YOU are going to do most of the learning in kindergarten and learn how to teach basic commands effectively, possibly get an introduction to clicker training and have the opportunity to ask questions and get answers with seasoned trainers.

>He settled down a little then got up and proceeded to pee on my arm, then tried to pee on my legs as well.

This is hardly surprising. He is a baby, he has ZERO bladder control. Puppies of that age have about 30 to 90 minutes worth of 'hold it' time (depending on the individual, how much water they have been drinking, etc) while they are awake and active. He should not have the option to go lay down with you - no one would be able to watch him. He should really be in the same room with one person's eye balls on him at all times. If you want to let him wander, your fiance needs to be following him. It is not to be mean or controlling, but you just cant trust a puppy that young not to pee because they need to - they don't really have the concept of 'outside' or 'holding it' yet.

>He DOES know how to ask to go out btw, sometimes he just doesn't and ignores you if you ask him if he wants to go out (which he knows what that means).

At 4 months old? No, he probably doesn't really know. He may sort of understand that when he does certain things he can go outside, but he is not reliable enough to communicate that/figure out how to ask under ALL situations. Our corgi was fantastic with house training at 5 months - unless he was in a room he was not used to or could not get to the back door to 'ask' because a door or other obstacle was in his way. It was not a reflection of him being 'bad' - he just had been in those situations so rarely that he did not know HOW to ask in those situations (which could be very similar to your dilemma). Your corgi should be on a consistent schedule - dont ASK him if he wants to go out, TAKE him out! Every 45-90 minutes when active (depends on his track record and what he is doing) and 15-30minutes after eating or drinking. If you notice him start to loose interest in an activity, that is your cue to get him outside (again, don't ask, just take him out). At around 5 - 6 months your pup is going to have more reliable bladder control and you can start to explore more freedoms as he proves he can handle it (teaching him to use bells or offer a cue to go out instead of taking him out systematically, slowly allowing him to have the room you are in +1 to explore while still being supervises, etc). Some people CAN get away with more freedoms earlier, but if your pup is still having accidents that is proof you are not there yet (and need to adjust accordingly)


Look into these resources for help with potty training and behavior - there simply is too much to cover in one reply:

• Kikiopup - What NOT to do to your dog when training your dog
  
  
• Dog training wiki - Jumping Up
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)
  
  Corgis are herders - they are very VERY mouthy until they get past teething (and can still be nippy if you are not consistent). Their bladders are tiny and untrustworthy at this age - keep them off uncleanable surfaces and make sure your eyeballs are on the puppy at all times until their bladder is more trustworthy. THOROUGHLY treat and wash the bedding with plenty of Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer (wash on sanitize setting after letting the bedding sit with the cleaner for several hours).
  
  /r/corgi frustrates me - so many people still advocate for dominance training there which has been seriously discounted in the dog training community. Yes, corgis are stubborn and are difficult to train - but you do not need to be mean or forceful or 'alpha'. Your dog is not trying to dominate you - they are a baby. They are not trying to be 'alpha' any more than an infant is trying to control the house.
  
  Be sure you are TEACHING your dog what you WANT them to do instead and you are treating the cause, not just the symptoms of behaviors. With potty training it is ALL about management and consistency - every accident is a set back and is YOUR fault for not watching him/controlling his environment better.
  
  If you cannot get to a puppy kindergarten class (which are usually around $50 for a 4-6 week class), do a TON of research on our wiki, kikopup videos, the digital dog training textbook and the books I listed above. Consider clicker training (but that will not really help they physical bladder control issue at this age) and Nothing in Life is Free to compliment your positive reinforcement training plan. Your puppy is also going to still need a ton of socialization with dogs, people and other animals.
  
  Positive reinforcement isn't about always sugar coating everything - you can still have strict rules and a well trained dog by using positive methods. The key to remember is treating the cause, not just the symptom and always looking to TEACH your dog, not control or intimidate. Corgis are fantastic dogs - they want to be with you all the time and they can be extremely obedient if you gain their trust and work with them correctly. Being heavy handed or using 'dominance' methods (like holding a dog on their back - that is terrifying to many dogs!) can seriously damage your relationship if you are not careful.
  
  Consistency and patience are the keys to success - look to capture the desired behaviors your corgi offers naturally, encourage new positive behaviors and redirect behaviors you do not want. If there is something your puppy does not KNOW (which is pretty much everything at this age) or cannot physically HELP (such as holding their bladder) you CANNOT punish them - it is not helpful, adds a lot of frustration and confusion to the relationship and does not teach them what they SHOULD be doing (because they don't know what that is or cannot physically do it.)

The basics (food, leash, collar, dishes, crate) will probably already be taken care of. I'd focus on training and positive dog-kid interaction, because it will set the stage for their relationship. If they're working together then it's easier to commit long term and be responsible, because it's enjoyable.

I guess it depends how much money are you looking to spend.

In the upper ranges, you could pay for a puppy kindergarten class (great for socialization, great for everyone involved).

Or maybe, a manners minder, a very effective training tool.

In the less expensive categories,

What about puzzle toys? They'll keep the puppy mentally stimulated, keep him quiet(er) when left alone, and give your family some peaceful breaks from the chaos. People need to destress too, in order to interact with dogs successfully.

• kong is a classic. Smear some peanut butter on the inside and it's like a puppy pacifier. Or, stuff it with mushy dog food and freeze it for an even longer lasting activity.
  
• JW treat ball is more active and will tire a puppy out. Treat balls are good for feeding kibble at mealtimes (no need to use dishes at every meal!).
  
  Maybe a portable dog water bottle/bowl for long walks? Something like this: gulpy water. That would encourage the idea of exercise and getting out and about, and also the idea that the puppy's well being and safety need to be accounted for.
  
  Books are a good idea too. It depends what his reading level is, and how much he enjoys reading. I wouldn't want to make puppy care tedious or a chore. There's a good training booklist here http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/books. If you think those would be a bit too heavy for him, maybe a book of dog trick ideas would be fun.
  
  The sooner kids interact positively with a puppy, the better it will go in the long run. On that note, like flibbertygiblet said, a clicker, treat bag, and a bag of tiny stinky treats would be a great idea. If you go the clicker route, I'd recommend starting with a quiet one, so the puppy doesn't get startled at first. Kids and puppies can be a bit unpredictable, so better safe than sorry. I like the iClick model.
  
  
  

Sure! Keep in mind it could be a flook still but LETS STAY POSITIVE RIGHT? :D

- We bought these bells from Amazon. They just hang on our doorknob. Some people prefer the nicer looking ones or something that won't scratch the walls -- but our apartment is pretty simple as it is so we don't mind :)

- For a little context, we live on the third floor of an apartment. Our 15-week golden seems to be afraid of the word "outside" but will gladly romp around once he's there. So we knew we wanted to try bell training to give a more formal process around the act. He's pretty small for a retriever still, so we've been carrying him downstairs to avoid accidents in the public places of the building.

- Regarding potty on command: we've been saying the word "bivouac" whenever Monti potties for a while now. Why did we choose "bivouac"? I actually don't know...my boyfriend picked it out lol. But after we got Monti, we quickly learned "Monti" was too close to "potty" for his little puppy ears and we didn't want him to think his name meant "okay go pee." He would perk up and look at us when we said "potty" so we knew that wasn't going to work. Basically the process was whenever we went outside and he squats we say (or more like excitedly shout) "BIVOUAC! Good boy, Monti! Bivouac" and then give him a treat. We stopped giving treats a few weeks ago but we still say bivouac whenever he potties. It helps when he's distracted or in a new place. He knows the word "bivouac" means that he has an agenda to complete outside.

- SO to introduce him to the bell, what I started doing was stopping by the door and letting him hit it with his paw or nose before we went outside. When it made a jingle, I said "OUTSIDE!" and gave him a normal dog treat before exiting the apartment and going outside.

- Once he was comfortable with the new noise-making machine in the apartment (because he WAS definitely scared at first), I upped the ante. If it was time for a scheduled potty break, I would grab half a slice of turkey. I'd get his attention with it and then walk over to the door (I already have my shoes on and our "outside bag" over my shoulder...ready to go!) I put a piece of the turkey on top of the lowest bell (he's too short for the other two right now) and let him eat it off the bells, jingling it. I reward him with praise and say "outside" so he [hopefully] keeps associating bells = outside = potty. After that, I have him sit and give him another bite of the turkey while I put his leash on. Then lure him in the hallway and toward the stair well. He gets the turkey at the stairs...where I then pick him up and carry him the rest of the way. My goal is to get him to hold it little by little until we can make it all the way downstairs and outside without accidents!

​

So today, I had let him out after he ate and drank -- he pottied and we walked around/played for a while. We came back upstairs for maybe 5 minutes and he rings the bell again. I KNOW he likely doesn't have to potty, but he rang -- so I have to listen. I leash him up (no turkey rewards, just praise because I want to get him OUT as fast as possible) and carry him downstairs and outside. We're walking around where he usually potties and nothing is happening -- which is fine. I'm expecting him to abuse the system at first, and I planned to give him 5 minutes without moving from our potty spot. I say "bivouac" and....HE PEES!!!!!!! Not only did he ring his bell to go outside but he PEED with our command word. I'm so proud of him :D

​

Sorry this is so long! Hopefully it's a little helpful. and PS Pibble is an adorable name.

Thanks! He's such a dream, I love my little Buckley. :)

Good idea with teeth-brushing, routine is the best way to get a puppy settled and behaving well. As for nail-clipping, basically you can just start as soon as his nails are getting too long. How long this will take heavily depends on your dog and his activity - if he spends a lot of time walking/running on hard surfaces like cement, they will stay worn down more and need to be trimmed less often, but if he spends more time on softer surfaces like grass/carpet you'll need to trim them more often. The dewclaw will need to be trimmed more often as it is above the ground, so keep an eye on that. Your best bet for knowing when to trim them is to ask your vet - you'll be seeing your vet frequently in the first few weeks/months anyway for his puppy shots so just ask how his nails are looking and if you should give them a trim. We just clipped my basset's nails for the first time about 2 weeks ago (so 12 weeks old), and he spends a decent amount of time on cement surfaces.

I'd recommend guillotine clippers, as those are easier to use on dog's nails. Nail files are also useful to just smooth out the nail after it gets clipped (since they can splinter a bit after clipping and be extremely scratchy). Just use LOTS of treats, praise, and high-reward toys after he gets his nails clipped so he learns that nail trimming = fun! Most dogs are uncomfortable with nail trims, so he might never love it, but he may at least tolerate it without squirming around which will make it MUCH easier on you.

If nail clipping does end up being problematic, you can get a Dremel nail grinder. They're a little pricier, but effective and they prevent the nail from splintering, which is a problem with clipping.

He has un-learned that it's nice to be clean. He needs to re-turn it, so you need to change your set up.

I always tell people to buy the tall Iris pet pen.Then get a mesh potty pad or fake grass pet potty - personal preference here, you just have to get something where they can't get to and shred the pad.

Put the crate in the back of the pen - start without bedding - and then put the potty thing right in front of it. Now we've created two clear zones - a comfy sleeping zone and a pee zone. By sleeping and peeing on both surfaces, their stupid little brain eventually is like "I can pee somewhere other than where I sleep. Huh. It's kind of nice not to sleep in my pee." They sometimes start to sleep on the potty thing, but don't worry about it, it's still part of the process. Eventually, when they seem to have the idea, try introducing a little bit of bedding back in and BE CRAZY ABOUT WASHING IT. If there is a drop of pee on the bed you can backslide. So wash wash wash so it stays clean and fresh (towels or sheets are a good/cheap way to start). Over time, you can introduce good bedding.

Remember, IGs have bladders the size of acorns, so they have to pee all the time, basically. A lot of people have success with the pen set up forever, and others can take them out enough to phase back into crates.

But right now, you need to give them the opportunity to re-learn how nice it is to be clean.

A side note, buying a dog from a good breeder who potty trains them - or at least you are 100% sure they're not raised to pee where they sleep - goes a long, long, long way in this.

Hey there,
so I know you posted this a while ago but if your dog doesn't seem interested in walking maybe you need something to get them more excited like treats or a toy that they will only get during their walks. I think maybe a good special treat could be these. I would also recommend a gentle leader like this one and both are relatively affordable on amazon. It doesn't hurt them and you don't risk having your puppy choking itself. Hope this helped!

There are some great suggestions already. I bought this bookto help with my lab mix's issues with nail care and baths and it has been a huge help, he is going from tolerating to liking these things. The author, deb jones, also has a blog with some great information if you can't get the book and she runs a Facebook page as well.

I also highly recommend muzzle training so while you work on building positive associations to grooming. I am in the process of muzzle training my dog, there are so many useful applications and I like knowing that if he ever needs to be muzzled, it won't stress him out further, because he'll be used to it.

I have a mini Aussie so I feel you. I try to be as inventive as possible with my budget but I suggest most interactive/treat dispensing toys. I make large ice cubes that are half chicken/beef broth with a jerky or bone sticking out only a little. Then because it’s a mini and she’s not a huge chewer I can make these inside a talenti gelato container. So basically inside a Tupperware (which plastic isn’t ideal because they can swallow it but mine doesn’t and focuses on the bone) there is the half and half broth with a bone and an easy treat to get. She also doesn’t eat paper/cardboard so I can put a bone or treat inside a tissue box or empty pasta box or whatever and she’ll rip it apart to get to it. Once again, I can only do it because I’m watching and I know she does not ingest this.

Here are some toys I suggest that are proven safer:

Lumo Ball

Snuffle Mat I really like the snuffle mat because you can feed all your meals in this and bring it with you if you want to keep your dog busy wherever you are.

OSPet Interactive Feeder
Trixie Puzzle

Ottosson Puzzle I really like most toys Outward Hound makes.

My dog’s favorite kong I find I can put just a biscuit or fill it full of kibble and pb and she’ll spend quite a bit of time getting it out.

Not sure if this allowed couldn’t find anything in about section that prohibits sharing links but here ya go!

Nina Ottoson Outward Hound Dog Brick Treat Puzzle Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9XTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dzNPDbQ0N6AW1


PAW5: Wooly Snuffle Mat - Feeding Mat for Dogs (12" x 18") - Encourages Natural Foraging Skills - Easy to Fill - Fun to Use Design - Durable and Machine Washable - Perfect for Any Breed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1FV55I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dANPDbB4NDWAG

The last thing we did was get tennis balls and a muffin tin, filled a few with treats and covered the muffin slots with the balls to have her sniff them out.

And the easiest is to hide treats and have her sniff them out throughout the house.

> . I have some Febreze spray here that I haven't used yet, but I do see that the can says to keep away from children and pets. I don't know if this spray would be harmful for her or if they just mean it so that the pet doesn't bite it or if it being in the air is dangerous to her health. It isn't that huge blue bottle, it is this thin one with a slanted top, I figured maybe I could take her out of the room to clean it and spray the Febreze then let her back in a little bit after.

Febreeze is not enzymatic cleaner. You need Nature's Miracle. Period.

> For socializing, my girlfriend has a french bulldog and there is also a pet store near by that I think could help me out with letting her play with other puppies and for her to see other people.

Has the puppy had its shots yet? You should not have them be around puppies that are also not vaccinated until your puppy itself has been vaccinated. The last thing you need on top of a puppy with a high-risk of behavioral issues to then get Parvoviros. Go here and scroll down to the "Vaccinations and Disease Risk..." section to make sure you're doing it right. If you know for a fact that your girlfriend's dog is 100% healthy and vaccinated, that should be fine.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but you're on the right track since you're already concerned and looking to be a good owner. Good luck.

So first thing is first - any adversive methods such as a vibrating collar with a dog that has fear or anxiety is only going to backfire and promote more fear or anxiety. I would ditch that. You're potentially causing more behavior issues when it's used. Dog learns to hide fear rather than teaching the dog confidence.


So you have a dog that is likely reactive and fearful - and a lot of anxiety. So before we can get to work mode, we need to address the causes of the anxiety and get the dog back to neutral. So first thing, you might want to try doing a two week shut down with this dog. https://www.marshmallowfoundation.org/info/file?file=20866.pdf This is to remove all the stimuli that can keep causing stress levels to be high. Adrenaline - when it spikes up during a moment of fear or panic can take over 6 days for the hormone levels to return to normal. It's great that the dog is food motivated because that is going to make things like counter conditioning to specific things much easier... but right now - stress is so high, your dog cannot focus let alone retain the cues you're training. Dog is in fight or flight mode... So give the two week shut down an effort.


Meanwhile, you want to write down all the things this dog is reacting to... if it's potentially separation anxiety, check the links I provided below. Anything else, you're going to want to work on each thing separately using desensitization and counter conditioning. Again, we're trying to bring the fearful dog to a neutral place... work on building confidence and associating the list of stimuli with positive rewards. Any negative behaviors - redirect.... either remove the stimuli or remove the dog. Reinforce calm relaxed behaviors.


https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/48sglg/discussion_separation_anxiety/ has some great info that you may find useful.

Do take a glance over at /r/reactivedogs They have lots of helpful advice on how to manage some of these behaviors.


Some books that may help:
The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell

I’ll be Home soon by Patricia McConnell

Don’t Leave Me by Nicole Wilde


If after that two week shut down and working a bit you still feel a bit overwhelmed, it might be a good consideration to work with a certified animal behaviorist. https://avsab.org/resources/speakers-bureau/behavior-consultants-near-you/ and https://iaabc.org/consultants are great searches for one.

Kongs are the simplest and its really easy to "level up". Start by just putting in dry kibble, then wet kibble, then freeze the wet kibble and seal up the big hole with yogurt or peanut butter. Then you can layer it so its frozen wet kibble, cheese, kibble, yogurt, kibble, peanut butter etc. It'll start taking longer and longer to get everything out. My pup loves the Kong Wobbler too! Not only does it tire him out, but it spreads out his meal so he doesn't eat it as fast. Same with the IQ ball. The puzzle board was great for awhile but then got too easy for him. Snuffle mats are pretty easy to DIY too if you don't want to fork over the money to buy a real one.

Hi! I got these from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KG9WMWI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_T8f1AbDTD7GKA

They are pretty loud and I don’t think they would sound anything like your cat’s bell. These are kind of like sleigh bells. By the way, it’s not so much about the sound being for the puppy, but rather the sound is for me to be able to hear it and respond to it. I feel like for my puppy it’s more about the action of going to the door and hitting the bells. Hope this makes sense! Good luck!

Brain games are games designed to stimulate your dog. This includes working on training tricks. I'm not sure where you are based but in the UK there are a few companies that make dog puzzle toys. My favourites are Trixie and Nina Ottoson (for example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trixie-Dog-Activity-Flip-Board/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467276532&sr=8-4&keywords=trixie+dog)

The first time I gave my pup that toy, he took about 30 minutes to get through it and then collapsed on the floor from exhaustion. Unfortunately he's pretty good at getting through those toys now so I'm having to work on some other forms of puzzles for him. Fortunately we know our pup's best friend's owners and we swap brain games with them so we've got a fairly good mix of them.

Have a look into a flirt pole. It's a great training tool as well. My pup goes absolutely mental when he sees me take it out but we don't start playing with it until he's in a down and leaves the lure. The game only starts when I release him from the down. After 20 minutes, he's panting like crazy and usually falls asleep for 2 hours or so after.

DIY - freeze some kibble/treats in a Popsicle, put some kibble/treats in an empty water bottle (our dog really likes the really cheap/thin ones that crinkle when squeezed), take a muffin tin and put kibble/treats in the holes and put tennis balls on top of them (we started with a mini muffin tin so the tennis balls just sat on top of the holes so they were easy to remove, then when he was good at that, we moved to a regular muffin tin)

Commercial - Kong, Kong Wobbler, Trixie Toys (lots of options), Omega Ball, Hide-a-Squirrel, Tornado

If you haven't already, read these books; I can't stress enough how much they saved our lives. Perfect Puppy in 7 Days and Before and After Getting your Puppy. They're highly recommended here and for good reason.

my puppy has one toy that he really loves, its a long grey raccoon that squeaks and makes other noises. whether he's in the crate or out, that toy keeps him busy while he wrestles with it. it also helps that we pull the toy up and he jumps up for it, so he's getting excited for it. I would try to find a toy that he really enjoys OR one of those treat dispensing puzzles https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0711Y9XTF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought that for my puppy, haven't tried it out yet.

We put a tall baby gate in our laundry room (6x10 feet). His crate is there if he wants it, water, and then some chew toys. I've also seen people recommend getting a cat box and filling it with sod or whatever your puppy potties on if they have accidents in this space.

Just be mindful of which gate you use, he learned how to climb the first one in two days. We've had these for a couple months and they keep home pretty well contained. Best of luck!

I'd return that and get a Wyze. Super simple setup, cheap, great mobile app, and perfect for monitoring doggo.

Are you looking for zero treat toys or just "less" treats? Are you giving her an empty Kong?

For treat-less, my pup kinda likes the Benebone. Every couple days he'll play with a ball by himself; he'll throw it in the air, then run to catch it. You can also try split elk antlers too if you consider that treat-less.

My pup used to not like Kongs either until we found the right canned food. Now it'll keep him busy for about 45 minutes. We fill them with stuff like Merricks 96% Beef and freeze it. That way you can use it as a meal too and not worry about over-treating.

I use this..http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450064798&sr=8-1&keywords=urine+destroyer and it works pretty well. Our 10-week-old puppy has an area she likes to pee in as well and this helps eliminate the enzymes.

This might help; my puppy used to knock her water bowl over in her crate as well until I got this bowl. It's secures very tightly, so they can't tip it over with their noses. :)

Thanks for the thoughtful response. We have considered day care but the last and only time we boarded him the owner charged us extra for having a high maintenance dog and said he has "severe separation anxiety". She told us to read this book . Although, we might try again. He does well when he's around other dogs.

The book is where we got that food technique. I give him his meal, say bye and leave the home. I re-enter, say hello and take his bowl early. Then repeat. It's not really helping. He's just learning to eat faster.

I love the weekend training idea and think that could produce results. As for the barking, I tried something new this morning. We did a training session where I would treat quiet and sitting behavior while standing just outside the front door. If he was quiet and sitting then I would open the door and give him kibble. I am only worried this will reinforce him heavily anticipating our return to the house. Thoughts?

The Kong Wobbler was perfect for my pup with the same problem. The dog has to paw the dispenser to get any food out so it's great for getting energy out too! The hole is fairly large, so it's pretty easy for the food to just fall out when the dog tilts it, but I put tape on the inside to adjust the hole size, and I can keep my high energy pup eating & playing for 15-30 min! Oh and the small size can hold up to 1.5-2 cups of kibble and is plenty big, even for large dogs.

First make sure she isn't sick. Second make sure her kibble is a good food.

My bulldog isn't a big eater. Putting the food in a snuffle mat or a feeder toy can help, it makes eating more fun. My go-to is using a food stand (mainly to reduce chance of bloat) and mixing her food with healthy treats. I use canned pumpkin (Libby's 100%), egg, plain nonfat yogurt, cottage cheese, honey, peanut butter, blueberries, chicken/beef broth, carrots, or apple. Of course, not all of it at once. I've noticed if she's being fed the same thing for too long she gets tired of eating it. I can't blame her, I do the same thing.

Another suggestion is leaving her food down for ten minutes and if she doesn't eat it, put the food up. I haven't personally done this method, but I've heard it works.

Seconding the Kong idea. This is my list, based on the Digital Dog Training Book linked to in the sidebar:

Puppy Immediate Needs

• puppy Kongs probably want 3–4 of these and maybe in different sizes
  
  
• metal crate (adjustable, buy for size of fully-grown dog)
  
  
• travel crate (not adjustable, buy for size of dog currently, if needed)
  
  
• fur remover x2—one for me and one for my partner
  
  
• dog appeasing pheromone plugin We use a similar one for our cats and will definitely be using it when the puppy arrives to appease the cats and also this one to make the transition from mommy's home to our home easier for the pup
  
  
• freeze-dried liver treats these tend to be "high value" treats for all dogs, so are a good place to start, but YMMV
  
  
• treat pouch
  
  Later Needs/Growing Puppy/Dog Needs
  
  
• portable water bowl
  
  
• portable water bowl
  
  
• poop bags
  
  
• adult kongs: Realtree football, Squirrel Dude, Kong biscuit ball 1, Kong biscuit ball 2, Kong genius 1, Kong genius 2, Updog Odin
  
  
• harness
  
  
• leash/collar light there's a million of these but this one doesn't need any batteries (!)
  
  
  I also have an extensive Etsy list with collars, leashes, running leashes, and tags.

I used this one and liked it a lot for what I was looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Exercise-8-Panel-Playpen-White/dp/B00D5P8450

Pros:

• plastic and has rubber nubs on the bottom so won't scratch floors.
  
  
• Each panel can be separated and you can buy additional panels in sets of 2 (or buy a whole second pen and connect them together).
  
  
• Has a door so you can let dog in/out easily without separating panels.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Plastic, so if you have a chewer they might be able to get through it.
  
  
• Only 34" tall, so it'll depend on the height of your dog and if they like jumping.
  
  
• Not as thin as the wire ones, so takes up more space when storing.

Someone recommended this snappy fit bowl to me some time ago. Been using it since and it's awesome. I just snap it to my pup's crate and she can have water all day without me worrying about spills.

I highly recommend the book Cooperative Care by Deb Jones for any body handling needs.

I got my shiba inu this duck and he has yet to put a hole in it. It is played with nearly every day and has lasted. Also got him some Kong Cozies that have lasted as well. Check the sizing on all toys to make sure you don't get any too small for a lab to swallow though.

I really like this playpen, it is super sturdy and no crossbars so they are less likely to attempt to climb out. https://www.amazon.ca/Regalo-192-Inch-Super-Wide-White/dp/B003VNKLIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519067238&sr=8-1&keywords=Regalo+192

playpen

Maybe something like this in your living room so the pup can see you? Put puppy pad in the play pen area?

Regalo Easy Step Walk Thru Gate, White, Fits Spaces between 29" and 39" Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC5UMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4dghzbNTQG8KR

This was $32. The gaps were too wide for our small breed puppy (7lbs at the time) though. Also consider buying used through Amazon, it's just a gate after all!

I use a Dremel to grind my pups nails. It took him a little bit to get used to it, but for me, it is easier to see where the quick is.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517489576&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+dog+nail+grinder

I vote yes! My shiba used to finish half cup of dry kibble in a few minutes when served in a regular bowl. While he never regurgitated after eating, I noticed he'd occasionally get hiccups after meals. I bought this from Amazon and it has extended his eat time by at least 5 times and I haven't observed any hiccups since. I wash the bowl every 3-5 days.

So, I actually bought the bells at Tomlinsons(?), but they look just like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KG9WMWI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AluxDbMFMJ6FN

It hangs on the door handle, and we would manually use her paws to jingle the bells before going outside every time. It felt dumb at the time haha, but she picked it up! She started nosing the bells and looking over at us. She will still occasionally have an accident inside, but it’s getting better!

This is something similar maybe searching these will help you find what you want.
www.amazon.com/dp/B003VNKLIY/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_lfgGxb5ZDZZB7

i bought this Benebone for my puppy even though he's not losing teeth yet. He seems to like chewing on it.

I find relying on the grip of the dish is not a reliable since it can get dusty and lose friction easily. You could also try a slow feeder (link) as these are pretty much impossible to spill over even if he tries to put his paws in them.

please tell me you arnt using one of those retractable leashes. Get a no pull head harness like either of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2
https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Trainer-Halter-Black-Strap/dp/B009ECY3QC

Multipet Duckworth (Assorted Colors) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000084E7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-JrTCbAH7Q16S

It’s the most ridiculous phenomenon. I saw a thread of everyone talking about how great it was. Had to try it myself.

Edit original post

If you're ordering from Amazon, I like these clickers. They're not better than any other really, but for just a couple more dollars you get a 3 pack. And you'll want spares, clickers have a tendency to just run away.

I'm a man and I've had other guys make comments like "who is training who?" at the dog park when my dog doesn't bring a ball back and I have to go get it. It's definitely annoying and I have to bite my tongue from making smart ass remarks.

I know you said you aren't looking for advice, but my dog is also crazy on walks and very reactive. We started using a gentle leader head collar and it made a night and day difference.

We still work on training the normal way during walks, but the gentle leader makes it way easier to pull him away from whatever he is lunging at on the occasion that the training fails and he reacts to something.

We have one too - it's from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Snapy-Stainless-Steel-Small-Animals/dp/B0012GS73S

We use this dremel:
(Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool )
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3w.bzbES79XR3

My breeder used this on my puppy so I bought the same brand that he was used to. He does not mind it. We give him lots of treats as we use this, maybe we are bribing him but I don't care because at least he sits there quietly for his nails to be done ;)

Himalayan Yak chews.

Frozen carrots (may make her poop look weird/orange, so be warned lol).

Rubber kong toys are pretty durable. My puppy isn't super excited by them though. But I bought them because he destroys everything else. I bought these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Traxx-Medium-Large-Black/dp/B007B6VU3W/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Extreme-Goodie-Large-Black/dp/B0115C7BL2/

​

Also, this isn't a chew toy, but I've found it to be extremely durable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KONG-Scrunch-Knots-Medium-Large/dp/B00EAN1U7A/ It's the one plushy toy my rottweiler hasn't managed to destroy.

I am not being sponsored by them but try this and let me know how it goes:

Extreme Dog Toy

https://www.amazon.com/KONG-41940-Extreme-Large/dp/B0002AR0II/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=kong&qid=1574016961&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-2

Extreme Goodie Bone

https://www.amazon.com/KONG-10015-Extreme-Goodie-Large/dp/B0115C7BL2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2SPCEL3VD1SVQ&keywords=kong+bone&qid=1574016835&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=kong+bo%2Caps%2C204&sr=1-2

My pup did the same until we got him a slow feeder bowl. This is the exact one I have and it worked wonders for my lab.

Beware of imposter ducks !

I use the wobble Kong for my puppy and it takes him 10 minutes to eat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B004NSVIRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527126180&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wobble+kong&dpPl=1&dpID=51dnutDe-lL&ref=plSrch

Oh man, the playpen climbing, haha. Have you looked into the one Regalo makes for humans? It's a little pricey, but it bought us some more time since there are no horizontal bars.

I’m not a dog expert by any means so maybe other people will have some better ideas, but the thing that stands out to me as someone with a dog who literally eats everything - tissues, toys, socks, paper, rocks, sticks, trash, you name it (it’s called Pica) - is you’re taking something that isn’t meant to be eaten (a rope toy, jeans, t-shirt material) and covering it in food, making it appealing to chew or eat. Idk if that will inadvertently train your dog that rope toy = chicken = food, but I will tell you from experience that it is a real pain keeping your dog exercised when he can’t have any toys because he eats them all and when you exercise outside, you’re constantly pulling sticks, pine cones, and trash out of his mouth. You might accidentally give your dog Pica by covering non-food items with food and encouraging her to chew on them.

Like I said, I’m no expert and I don’t know for sure if a chicken broth-soaked toy will actually train your dog to eat her toys, but it’s worth being careful because Pica is dangerous and expensive. =/

My dog loves chewing these flavored bones and they keep him busy for a while. I would recommend finding a flavored bone like that or something similar rather than soaking toys in broth, but that’s just based on my own terrifying experience with Monty almost dying. Make sure you throw away any chews once they’re small enough for your dog to choke on or swallow whole. They can also get stuck in the intestines and cause a blockage.