(Part 3) Top products from r/puppy101

Many people think that because corgis are bossy and stubborn they need to be forceful with training - which isn't the case. Corgis are actually (generally) pretty sensitive dogs despite their bossiness, so using these old fashioned dominance methods are just hurting your relationship with your dog.

He is 4 months old - he has been ALIVE 4 months! You need to be patient and consistent with him. You are not going to be able to expect him to have a perfect recall, bite inhibition, play and bathroom habits at this age - it is like expecting a 3 year old to act like a 18 year old - they do not have the mental capacity, the focus or the skill to be more than what they are - a baby.

Get into a puppy kindergarten class at a local club that specializes in positive reinforcement. Kindergarten will help your puppy with socialization (which will help with basic manners, bite inhibition and will be CRITICAL to their success as an adult dog). YOU are going to do most of the learning in kindergarten and learn how to teach basic commands effectively, possibly get an introduction to clicker training and have the opportunity to ask questions and get answers with seasoned trainers.

>He settled down a little then got up and proceeded to pee on my arm, then tried to pee on my legs as well.

This is hardly surprising. He is a baby, he has ZERO bladder control. Puppies of that age have about 30 to 90 minutes worth of 'hold it' time (depending on the individual, how much water they have been drinking, etc) while they are awake and active. He should not have the option to go lay down with you - no one would be able to watch him. He should really be in the same room with one person's eye balls on him at all times. If you want to let him wander, your fiance needs to be following him. It is not to be mean or controlling, but you just cant trust a puppy that young not to pee because they need to - they don't really have the concept of 'outside' or 'holding it' yet.

>He DOES know how to ask to go out btw, sometimes he just doesn't and ignores you if you ask him if he wants to go out (which he knows what that means).

At 4 months old? No, he probably doesn't really know. He may sort of understand that when he does certain things he can go outside, but he is not reliable enough to communicate that/figure out how to ask under ALL situations. Our corgi was fantastic with house training at 5 months - unless he was in a room he was not used to or could not get to the back door to 'ask' because a door or other obstacle was in his way. It was not a reflection of him being 'bad' - he just had been in those situations so rarely that he did not know HOW to ask in those situations (which could be very similar to your dilemma). Your corgi should be on a consistent schedule - dont ASK him if he wants to go out, TAKE him out! Every 45-90 minutes when active (depends on his track record and what he is doing) and 15-30minutes after eating or drinking. If you notice him start to loose interest in an activity, that is your cue to get him outside (again, don't ask, just take him out). At around 5 - 6 months your pup is going to have more reliable bladder control and you can start to explore more freedoms as he proves he can handle it (teaching him to use bells or offer a cue to go out instead of taking him out systematically, slowly allowing him to have the room you are in +1 to explore while still being supervises, etc). Some people CAN get away with more freedoms earlier, but if your pup is still having accidents that is proof you are not there yet (and need to adjust accordingly)


Look into these resources for help with potty training and behavior - there simply is too much to cover in one reply:

• Kikiopup - What NOT to do to your dog when training your dog
  
  
• Dog training wiki - Jumping Up
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)
  
  Corgis are herders - they are very VERY mouthy until they get past teething (and can still be nippy if you are not consistent). Their bladders are tiny and untrustworthy at this age - keep them off uncleanable surfaces and make sure your eyeballs are on the puppy at all times until their bladder is more trustworthy. THOROUGHLY treat and wash the bedding with plenty of Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer (wash on sanitize setting after letting the bedding sit with the cleaner for several hours).
  
  /r/corgi frustrates me - so many people still advocate for dominance training there which has been seriously discounted in the dog training community. Yes, corgis are stubborn and are difficult to train - but you do not need to be mean or forceful or 'alpha'. Your dog is not trying to dominate you - they are a baby. They are not trying to be 'alpha' any more than an infant is trying to control the house.
  
  Be sure you are TEACHING your dog what you WANT them to do instead and you are treating the cause, not just the symptoms of behaviors. With potty training it is ALL about management and consistency - every accident is a set back and is YOUR fault for not watching him/controlling his environment better.
  
  If you cannot get to a puppy kindergarten class (which are usually around $50 for a 4-6 week class), do a TON of research on our wiki, kikopup videos, the digital dog training textbook and the books I listed above. Consider clicker training (but that will not really help they physical bladder control issue at this age) and Nothing in Life is Free to compliment your positive reinforcement training plan. Your puppy is also going to still need a ton of socialization with dogs, people and other animals.
  
  Positive reinforcement isn't about always sugar coating everything - you can still have strict rules and a well trained dog by using positive methods. The key to remember is treating the cause, not just the symptom and always looking to TEACH your dog, not control or intimidate. Corgis are fantastic dogs - they want to be with you all the time and they can be extremely obedient if you gain their trust and work with them correctly. Being heavy handed or using 'dominance' methods (like holding a dog on their back - that is terrifying to many dogs!) can seriously damage your relationship if you are not careful.
  
  Consistency and patience are the keys to success - look to capture the desired behaviors your corgi offers naturally, encourage new positive behaviors and redirect behaviors you do not want. If there is something your puppy does not KNOW (which is pretty much everything at this age) or cannot physically HELP (such as holding their bladder) you CANNOT punish them - it is not helpful, adds a lot of frustration and confusion to the relationship and does not teach them what they SHOULD be doing (because they don't know what that is or cannot physically do it.)

The basics (food, leash, collar, dishes, crate) will probably already be taken care of. I'd focus on training and positive dog-kid interaction, because it will set the stage for their relationship. If they're working together then it's easier to commit long term and be responsible, because it's enjoyable.

I guess it depends how much money are you looking to spend.

In the upper ranges, you could pay for a puppy kindergarten class (great for socialization, great for everyone involved).

Or maybe, a manners minder, a very effective training tool.

In the less expensive categories,

What about puzzle toys? They'll keep the puppy mentally stimulated, keep him quiet(er) when left alone, and give your family some peaceful breaks from the chaos. People need to destress too, in order to interact with dogs successfully.

• kong is a classic. Smear some peanut butter on the inside and it's like a puppy pacifier. Or, stuff it with mushy dog food and freeze it for an even longer lasting activity.
  
• JW treat ball is more active and will tire a puppy out. Treat balls are good for feeding kibble at mealtimes (no need to use dishes at every meal!).
  
  Maybe a portable dog water bottle/bowl for long walks? Something like this: gulpy water. That would encourage the idea of exercise and getting out and about, and also the idea that the puppy's well being and safety need to be accounted for.
  
  Books are a good idea too. It depends what his reading level is, and how much he enjoys reading. I wouldn't want to make puppy care tedious or a chore. There's a good training booklist here http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/books. If you think those would be a bit too heavy for him, maybe a book of dog trick ideas would be fun.
  
  The sooner kids interact positively with a puppy, the better it will go in the long run. On that note, like flibbertygiblet said, a clicker, treat bag, and a bag of tiny stinky treats would be a great idea. If you go the clicker route, I'd recommend starting with a quiet one, so the puppy doesn't get startled at first. Kids and puppies can be a bit unpredictable, so better safe than sorry. I like the iClick model.
  
  
  

My pup was neutered last week, ooh boy is the 2 weeks recovery the longest ever- 6 more days until he's done and I can't wait. Arlo lasted maybe 2 hours at home with the cone (he was napping) when he woke up he kept chewing on the inside and had it half pulled off. I've been keeping an eye on him when he's awake and then when he naps/goes to bed I've been using an inflatable kong donut. He still hates it, but he puts up with it when he's sleepy.

Behavior wise, mine stayed overnight at the vet and came home the next morning. He was still pretty loopy from the meds and napped for a few hours. When he woke he was sore, cranky and ready to run.

The first couple of days were really rough, he was full of energy and because of the 'keep quiet to heal' he had no outlet for the energy which led to a lot of frustrated barking, nipping and human crying in a corner. But by day 4ish I started taking him on longer walks with lots of sniffing which helped calm him and I got him back to regularly scheduled naps.

Unfortunately had some puppy teeth pulled during his surgery so vet said no toys/chews for 14 days. Frozen kongs are really helpful, I just load his up with wet dog food or a pumpkin puree/kibble mix and freeze it. Keeping him mentally busy is huge-we've been working on commands, trying to get his sit/down/stay/go to mat hand signals down. Also making him work for his kibble, when he wakes from a nap I'll have hidden his lunch or dinner kibble around the apartment like an Easter Egg Hunt so he has to sniff it out. I also got him a few dog puzzles which he likes.

If you can manage a few days off work it might help. I work from home and it was nice just to be nearby and work out some of his energy throughout the day, plus keep an eye on him to make sure he didn't pull off his donut or get at his stitches. Mostly it will depend on your dog, mine is an energetic handful that likes to chew on things (stitches). Since yours will be able to play with his toys and have chews you will (hopefully!) have an easier time of it.

Good luck!

Let's see... fetch may be a bit much for a few days. My wife and I like to moisten his dry food until it's mushy and mix it with canned pumpkin (not the pie filling with all the sugar) get it all into a freezer bag, cut the corner and pipe it into kongs like you would frosting a cake. Throw a bag full of kongs in the freezer for a day, and it will keep them busy for a bit. It's also good for teething! We will give him one to keep him cool in the heat, or when he was losing baby teeth. As an aside, he also figured out if he throws it on the ground the little 'nugget' that he couldn't reach would come out. Too smart for his own good.

Take him wandering. I would be a bit weary of letting him off leash if he has any type of prey drive. Maybe just an extra walk a day will keep them a little worn down.

We trained him in German, because that's where we were at the time. We used the time to teach him some words in English too. Also hand signals! They work even better than words. Sit, stay, look at me, touch, lay down, speak, kennel, and any other command you can think of would be great to teach him! I can give step by step, or I'm sure a quick google will pull up a ton of stuff from someone more qualified than me. Just be consistent and patient. He will get it. Also see if you can find a 'puppy puzzle' These are great! Until he steals a piece to gnaw on. Just watch him. Atlas still loves his and gets all excited when we pull it out. found it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037LRYPI/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w?th=1

took a bit to get him trained, but after a couple rounds instead of a meal, he was out for the count!
If you have an SO (or willing friend), you can teach him to come to his name, or command. My wife and I would sit on the floor about 10 feet apart and call him and praise and give him a treat each direction. We got him comfortable with wearing his harness (Julius K9 makes a great harness BTW, we went through about 4 before he stopped growing).
Other than that, we took him everywhere (and I mean EVERYWHERE) with us, so new experiences wore him out. But it's a little different in Germany, we only got 'in trouble' once for taking him with us. Some older lady got all upset because he stopped to poop on the sidewalk in Frankfurt, we cleaned it up and washed what we couldn't get up away. I think she was just grumpy in general... Take him in the car, get him used to that. Teach him to stay in the backseat, or passenger seat. Teach him to wait to get in or out until you tell him to (later on, pick him up and put him down for now, you don't want a 'couch' incident). show him the bathtub and running water. just dont get his back half wet, we want to keep his injury clean and dry.

train with him while he's eating, take his food, put your hands in his bowl, touch him while he's eating. Slowly, of course. we don't want him to nip at you. Just to get him comfortable, so he doesn't develop a food control issue.

If I think of anything else I will add it in, but that should be a great start. I miss my pup, and am always willing to help out! Good luck!

Oh man, it's gonna be a wild ride for you. I spent over a year researching dogs before I got my pup and it's still been tough. I'm not here to lecture though, since I'm sure you've already heard enough of it by now, so will do my best to offer some advice.

​

1. Check out Simpawtico's videos on how to train your new pup. He's super informative and explains things in a simplistic, easy to understand way.
   
2. Crate train your pup. It will save your sanity and also be good for pup. Here's a sample schedule. Also, this website offers a step by step instruction.
   
3. As for food, I personally think you should put the effort in to research this yourself. I think choosing a diet and food for your dog is a very personal thing as it needs to consider your own budget and values. This website breaks down a lot of dog food brands. Some ppl appreciate it and some ppl don't think it's reliable. You decide. I can tell you which one I bought if you dm me.
   
4. Here's some very informative resources you can read up on. It'll help with before you get your puppy, after getting your puppy, house training, etc.
   
5. Puppy Blues are a thing and it's okay to have it. You can find other ppl's stories on reddit & they're comforting bc at least you know you aren't alone.
   
6. Have treats ready.
   
   ​
   
   Some things to expect the first week:
   
   -WHINING. They will whine. Ignore them if you've already taken them out to potty and fed them. If you give in, then you will teach them that whining gets them attention. Can't hold it against them though. They're scared and in a completely new place away from their mom and litter.
   
   - They may not eat that much the first few days. My vet said this is normal since they are still adjusting to their new environment.
   
   - Take the pup for a vet exam. Don't just trust the word of whoever/wherever you got them from.
   
   - They potty all the time lol...pls still take your new pup out at night. Mine was 8 weeks old when I got her and I took her out every two hours in the middle of the night. I still do every 2.5 hrs because she's only 10 weeks old now. Goodbye to an uninterrupted 8 hour nights rest. You can slowly extend the time as they get older.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Some essentials I bought:
   
   

1. Poop bags I didn't think I needed this many, but boy oh boy, I do.
   
   
2. Crate
   
   
3. Play Pen For when you can't supervise as closely. I also like it bc it teaches them that they can't always have access to you
   
   
4. Puppy Shampoo They'll probably get dirty soon lol. Or maybe they smell when you picked them up.
   
   
5. Dog tag Way cheaper than petco's and is okay quality
   
   I'd recommend shopping at TJMaxx for dog toys. It's wayyy cheaper than anywhere else I've found.
   
   ​
   
   Overall, just keep working with your pup and be consistent with them. Consistent with your expectations, routine, training, etc and it'll get better slowly. I know I've only had my pup for 2 weeks so maybe I'm not the most credible person based on experience, but I've definitely put a lot of effort into learning as much as I could before I got her. Hopefully some of this is of some help.
   
   Good luck!
   
   ​

> Is it better to train the puppy to use the bathroom outside or inside on the pee pee pads?

Outside of course, no one likes the smell. Check out House-training Your Puppy from the ASPCA.

> What are the best types of foods to buy a puppy? I've been reading up that a lot of brand name dog foods contain fillers and certain foods that any dog should not be generally eating as it messes up their digestion

A lot of the information about dog food on the internet is total garbage. There are so many websites full of information that "sounds right" but is just a bunch of mumbo jumbo that Sally McNaturalFood conjured up because "chemicals are bad" or "I don't understand nutrition" or "my anecdotal observation caused a placebo effect".

Check out the following links for help on choosing a dog food. These are all from expert sources. People that have been thoroughly educated (not brainwashed as the internet would have you believe) on nutrition for our pets. Hint: most websites that warn of dog food "fillers" tend to not be very good sources of factual information.

The World Small Animal Veterinary Association

• The Savvy Dog Owner’s Guide: Nutrition on the Internet
  
• Recommendations on Selecting Pet Foods
  
  Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University
  
  
• FAQ's on Pet Nutrition
  
  The Bark Magazine article written by a nutritionist (MSc)
  
  
• Dog Food Logic (I HIGHLY recommend reading the full book)
  
  > Is it better to train using treats as positive reinforcement or is there something better?
  
  Use your dog's kibble as a treat when you can. That way you don't have to adjust their daily intake. Use meal times as training opportunities rather than feeding out of a bowl.
  
  One of the BEST things you can do for yourself is read a puppy book. Even if you've owned a dog before, I can almost guarantee you will learn something new and it will make your time with your pup much easier for the both of you.
  
  Recommended Books:
  
  
• BEFORE & AFTER Getting Your Puppy by Dr Ian Dunbar (free on his website w/ registration)
  
• The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell, PhD
  
• Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Dr Sophia Yin

My pup will get into biting "moods" where the "ouch!" method just eggs her on. In that case, having a room (like a bathroom that you have previously cleaned out of mats and things on the counter) to close her in for 30-60 seconds might be useful so she can't just follow you and nip your ankles.

I have this toy that my pup loves and it keeps your hands away from their mouth, gives them something else to bite.

Is she loosing teeth? Might be teething. Have you tried giving her frozen carrots or other frozen toys to help with the pain?

Oh! And the "gentle" command! We just learned it from our trainer which is super helpful for our little landshark. To train it, you put a high value treat inside a closed fist and present. My pup immediately tried to put my entire fist in her mouth haha. Just keep waiting. At the first semblance of a lick, open your hand immediately and praise. Repeat, waiting for more and more licking. Eventually, your pup will learn that "gentle" means "stop biting and lick or nose my hand instead". This has been a godsend because my girl can take her excitement over treats out on my hands and now I can just remind her "Gentle" and she actually does stop.

Learning about dogs and animal behaviour has moved on a lot since the 1970s. Unfortunately the Monks of New Skete have not moved on one iota. Please bury that book and get one of these, for instance:

• Puppy Start Right by Kenneth and Debbie Martin (Kindle Edition)
  
• Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy off Right by Dr Sophia Yin
  
• The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey
  
  I totally agree that building a good relationship with the dog is important, but then the MoNS recommend forms of physically punishing ('correcting') your dog or manipulating him to do stuff with the leash which would definitely undermine that good relationship.
  
  Tugging on the leash and barking at other dogs are indicators that your dog is stressed on the leash, and this is a common side effect of using the leash to control the dog (pops on the leash, pulling the dog with the leash into position, etc.). To have a pleasant experience of walking the dog, you want the leash to be relaxed at all times. Start by teaching off leash heeling at home, then in a quiet area such as a back yard, then go out into the street. My dog walks much nicer on a harness than on the collar, just an anecdotal tip. See r/dogtraining wiki for loose leash walking training step by step.
  
  Giving your dog lots of time to be comfortable around another dog at a distance is a good way to help with interactions. Keep both dogs on leash and walk in parallel for a bit, say 10 m apart, encouraging them both to sniff around rather than staring at each other. Then walk a bit closer, then a bit closer still, and move apart again and release them both about 10 m apart.

Hey there,
so I know you posted this a while ago but if your dog doesn't seem interested in walking maybe you need something to get them more excited like treats or a toy that they will only get during their walks. I think maybe a good special treat could be these. I would also recommend a gentle leader like this one and both are relatively affordable on amazon. It doesn't hurt them and you don't risk having your puppy choking itself. Hope this helped!

There are some great suggestions already. I bought this bookto help with my lab mix's issues with nail care and baths and it has been a huge help, he is going from tolerating to liking these things. The author, deb jones, also has a blog with some great information if you can't get the book and she runs a Facebook page as well.

I also highly recommend muzzle training so while you work on building positive associations to grooming. I am in the process of muzzle training my dog, there are so many useful applications and I like knowing that if he ever needs to be muzzled, it won't stress him out further, because he'll be used to it.

I'm in a similar boat (except I've got more advance notice) and have been finding the Digital Dog Training Textbook linked-to in the sidebar to be invaluable. Highly recommend. It's a little oddly laid out and it repeats itself itself but—as it says—you're really training yourself how to train the pup, so the reinforcement works (at least for me).

Their shopping list (oddly-formatted, watch out) includes:

• At least six chewtoys to stuff with kibble and treats (The Kong Company’s Kong and Biscuit Ball, Premier’s Squirrel Dude and Football, and sterilized long bones^† are the best.)
  
• Water bowl (Only buy your pup a food bowl once he is socialized, well-trained, and has impeccable household manners.)
  
• Dog food (dry kibble) During his first weeks at home, make sure your puppy receives all food stuffed in chewtoys, or handfed as rewards for socialization and training.
  
• Freeze-dried liver for men, strangers, and children to win your puppy's confidence and as rewards for housetraining
  
  (All links non-affiliate, just tryna be helpful :)
  
  Also, I saw this recommended somewhere. I have used a similar product for our cats and it's fucking magic, so if you're concerned your pup might be stressed, I highly recommend.
  
  ^† above, /u/caffeinatedlackey recommends against these until older

The number of options and the marketing strategies dog food companies use can be genuinely overwhelming. I completely understand how you're feeling.

Firstly, I would not recommend rotating dog foods. Generally, dogs take a while to adjust to a change in diet and, unless your pup has guts of steel, he will likely not respond well to frequent food swaps. If a food works for your dog, there's no reason to alternate.

Is there a reason you want to switch off Royal Canin? That might help us understand what you're looking for. Honestly, in terms of brands that have the most research behind them, Royal Canin is a great option. Purina is another. If he's not doing well on Royal Canin, it might be worth discussing with your vet, depending on what symptoms he's showing.

Ultimately, it's your choice what you feed your dog. As long as you're choosing a food that is AAFCO certified (it will say somewhere on the bag), and feeding the appropriate daily amount, your dog will likely do fine. It gets a bit trickier when a dog has allergies, or a sensitive stomach, and you can definitely troubleshoot those things through their diet, but it's important to make changes gradually and rule out other causes such as illness or environmental allergies.

If you're a reader, and would like to be better informed about canine nutrition and how to separate science from pseudoscience in terms of dog food, I would really recommend the book Dog Food Logic by Linda Case. The author has her masters in canine nutrition and does an excellent job of presenting a complicated, controversial topic in an easily digestible way. I recommend this book constantly. She breaks down the nutritional needs of your dog, the history of dog food production, dog food "fads", common biases we are susceptible to when shopping for dog food, etc.

The leash i wish i'd known about and used, which i now is the Halti Training lead. You can adjust how you want it, it's very versatile, long but it's for training so you hold in your right hand and walk dog on left side.

Also great if you have two dogs, i can wrap one round my waist and attach the other to both dogs and walk handsfree so i can lure, reward more easily.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00589G9YY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Wellness-Natural-Training-Treats-3-Ounce/dp/B001HBBQKY

Wellness is a great brand, has good ingredients (sweet potato, carrots, apples) and my puppy likes them. Only 4kCal per treat and I usually split them for training (they're kind of partitioned to do this easily).

I've found that I need to switch around treats frequently, though, to keep them of any value. He also has liver jerky, liver loaf, Charki Puffs (https://www.amazon.com/Diggin-Your-Dog-Charki-Amazing/dp/B00AO1633S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480950067&sr=1-1&keywords=charki+puffs), and I like BarkBox because he gets a couple of new treats each month that can be cycled in and out.

We use the puppy kong fill it mostly with his actual dry food taken from his food allowance, then a bit of this to make it sticky. He mostly licks it out, but he's not chewing anything else while he's engaged with the Kong if you see what I mean.

He loves to chew up sticks, but he's pretty entertained by carrots as well. We only let him at those supervised though, just in case.

Links are Amazon.co.uk, sorry if that's confusing.

Definitely speak to management and provide direct quotes. Ask to use the other trainer, or your money back immediately so you can go elsewhere.

Look up kikopup on YouTube for some good positive training videos.

I am also a huge fan of Culture Clash by Jean Donaldaon. If looking for some good info and perspective.

it definitely helped! she was somewhat used to puppy pads from her breeder, but she definitely prefers the grass texture it seems.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX0FMCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one we use. we rinse it out with water now and again, but we also store it on the patio outside when we're with her. it definitely starts to smell if you don't rinse it out after a few uses. she's 13.5 weeks, so she's getting better with accidents in general, but if it's rainy or shit weather she's perfectly fine going on this.

Oh man. This sounds exactly like Wesley for the first 6 weeks we had him. For the first 6 weeks he was in "venus fly trap" mode.. His mouth would just be open waiting for something to land in his mouth so he could snap his jaws closed. I literally cried I was so frustrated with him. What worked for us was finding things he actually liked to redirect him to. He hated kongs and nylabones. He's warmed up to kongs now, but thats because his lunch is frozen into a kong and given to him when we leave him for the day. What he did like was one particular toy that was like a very long stuffingless fox with 2 squeakers in it. Me & my boyfriend each kept one either as a scarf or in our pocket and when he attacked our feet we made a high pitched yelp then redirected with that toy. The only chew toy he liked was a "bully stick". It smelled horrendous, but he would actually lay down and chew on that without chewing on us. So we kept that for when we needed a break or when we were eating dinner.

But the thing that probably helped the most was time. He's 14 weeks old now and finally starting to learn not to bite people. He's still high energy, but a puppy play date now that he has 2 rounds of shots tires him out (and now that he has 2 rounds of shots we finally feel safe taking him for walks). He finally has an attention span to get training started, and that helps. We taught fetch and that helped with puppy energy a lot.

It does get better. Just gotta wait it out. Puppies are awful, thankfully they are damn cute and generally grow out of it.

I just got two of these
https://smile.amazon.com/KONG-Puppy-Kong-Small-Assorted/dp/B0002AR18C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496790665&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+kong

And one of these
https://smile.amazon.com/KONG-StuffN-Treat-8-Ounce-Puppy/dp/B0009YD7P2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496790691&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+kong+stuffing

Although like I said, sometimes we use small dabs of peanut butter. I got two so that I could switch them out - so he can have one to chew on (empty) during the day and one in the freezer. I've never had a chewer before, so this was my first experience with Kongs, and so far, they're great!

Fellow Dane owner here. As far as equipment, I have this leash and it's pretty well padded. You can clip both ends to the collar/harness and make a loop out of it for easier holding and less slipping, as well.

Part of owning a giant breed dog is sizing up equipment, unfortunately. I'd recommend a Freedom Harness and buying larger sizes as needed.

Instead of just focusing on the equipment, what are you doing to teach her that walking at your side is the appropriate way to behave? You shouldn't be relying on the tools to teach this for you. Instead, you need to reward her for being in the correct spot.

I know that you say you've been remiss in her training due to an event outside of your control, but I strongly urge you to dedicate as much time to it as possible. If you think being dragged by a 50 lb dog is tough, imagine being dragged by a 130 lb dog. My male was 100 lbs at 6 months, so your window in which your puppy is "easily" controllable is closing very quickly.

I highly recommend the book Cooperative Care by Deb Jones for any body handling needs.

Readers digest the perfect puppy how to raise a well behaved puppy
https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Newly-Revised-Updated-Well-Behaved/dp/0762107987

Crate is the best weapon. I just got another puppy last weekend and he cries a lot for the first 5-10 minutes he's in the crate at night. If you get a break, wait 2 minutes then treat. Keep it up until she falls asleep. I also bought the Snuggle Puppy at the suggestion of another redditor. He seems to really like it.

Definately get a mesh harness. Be wary of front clip harnesses that aren't mesh. We tried a front clip Wonder Walker and the leash would ride up and press on our pup's throat. Even fitted, we could hear choking.

There are different kinds of mesh harnesses. I find that ones through the head are okay if your pup has a small head and comfortable with shit going over his head. If not, I recommend either a mesh step in or a neck adjustable one.

For a growing puppy, the last one would last you the longest because the neck and belly can adjust independently. For durability, we like the 2nd one.

We've tried a Gooby harness and while it was good at first, it wasn't nearly as durable as the Puppia ones or safe. My pup's front legs could slip through the 'x' design. It was really weird. The strap is pretty thin leathery fabric that my 10lb pup chewed in one go. He has yet to chew through the puppia ones.

If you want a chew proof guaranteed one, you'll have to go with Lupine. All their harnesses are guaranteed even if chewed. It's awesome. I have a few, but they aren't as comfortable as the mesh ones.

I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000WD6UA4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 I'm hoping it will help my transition too.

I forgot the link.

PetSafe SprayShield Animal Deterrent with Clip, Citronella Spray up to 10 ft, Protect Yourself and Your Pets - PTA00-14718 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIP6X06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xG5xCbF8XSXGM

Another option without the citronella..

Pet Corrector – The Company of Animals – Bad Behavior and Training Aid - Quickly Stops Barking, Jumping, Digging, Chewing – Harmless and Safe- 50ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3n6xCbPFE015M

Potty bells are just a belt with bells attached to it. I bought some from amazon for $13. Hang them by the door. When you know your dog needs to potty put a tiny tiny tiny dab of peanut butter on the bells and let the puppy see it. When they lick the bells and they make noise, praise them. Then open the door and go outside. I also would take my puppy's paw and bat the bells before going outside if he didnt' do it on his own. Only during potty time. After a week of being consistent with the bells every single time we went out for potty he started hitting them on his own. He's only had 2 or 3 accidents inside in the past 3 weeks and he's 14.5 weeks old.

If you're ordering from Amazon, I like these clickers. They're not better than any other really, but for just a couple more dollars you get a 3 pack. And you'll want spares, clickers have a tendency to just run away.

I've been using this: (sorry, can't hyperlink on mobile) Isle of Dogs Tearless Puppy Sulfate Free Shampoo, 16 Fluid Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008672962/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VugOzb3XXSXBB

Pup doesn't seem to have any problems with it even when I accidentally get a bit in her eye. Very mild and subtle scent. Highly recommend! http://i.imgur.com/TOKQS4A.jpg

My 8 month-old pup was barking a lot and it was becoming a big issue because I live in a condo. I ended up buying a bottle of [compressed air] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UCH02O/ref=twister_B017DHGBNW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) that is designed to mimic the sound of a warning hiss, similar to what a cat or snake would make. When the dog starts barking too much, you say "No" or "Quiet" and then aim it in the air (AWAY from the dog) and squeeze out just a bit. The dog will be startled by the noise, and will most likely immediately stop barking. I would wait to make sure my pup was completely silent, and then say "thank you" and give her a treat. I only had to do this a few times and now it's almost to the point where I can tell her "thank you" and she will be quiet.

I only chose to use this because I couldn't get the barking to stop otherwise, and this was a humane way to communicate with my pup that her behavior was unwanted.

We bought something really similar for our puppy to use in the house. It's available on Amazon.

Ian Dunbar's Before You Get Your Puppy and After You Get Your Puppy

Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 Days

KONG Cozies Dog Squeaky Toy

I thought about buying that for him, but the iguana toy he had, he ended up eating the tail, bit by bit, I would find pieces of it when I would go on poo-pickup patrol.

Don’t know your budget but I got this one!

We have an almost 6 month old Standard Schnauzer and he got the hang of ringing the potty bells when he needs to go out within a few weeks. It's nice because we can be in another room and hear if he is at the door and needs to go out. The only downside is sometimes he tries to fake us out and rings them when he just wants to wander around outside and chew on a twig.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX0FMCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I have one of these for inside my house, and it has seemed to work well. I put a regular potty pad under it, and I put a potty pad on the floor next to it, because my guy is only 8 weeks, and he likes to walk forward a little and I want to make sure and catch spills, but it seems to do the job without causing confusion and he still potty's on the grass without issue. good luck!

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also, my vet recommended frozen baby carrots for teething pain.

Best - Bully sticks, he will chew through these things like crazy but it's worth it. He's stopped biting us by 5 months and hasn't destroyed anything in the house.

Worst - Kong Moose, at only 3 months old he had this thing torn apart with stuffing everywhere in about 5 minutes. We complained to amazon and they sent us a new one. The new one lasted about the same amount of time.