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Congrats on the new toy. Looks like a decent power system (Mamba Monster/Castle motor) I agree with the 4S for starters to help learn control.

The challenge is the ESC is wired with a single battery lead (looks like a Traxxas plug going into a XT60 adapter), so the previous owner must have run a single battery. 4S batteries can be more expensive than two 2S, for example from Amazon right now:

• Gens ace 7.4V 2S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $37/each x 2 = $74
  
• Gens ace 14.8V 4S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $86/each
  
  Plus you'll get half the run time with a single 4S battery (5000mAh) versus two 2S (2 x 5000mAh = 10000mAh).
  (Note: I'm not recommending Gens Ace brand as I don't have any experience with it, it is only for example purposes)
  
  
  Any chance you have a buddy that can solder? If not you might be able to find an adapter but most are made with thin wire (thinner than the wire on your ESC) that won't support the current draw of the Mamba ESC. Some of my local hobby stores (LHS) will solder a connection if you buy the parts/battery there. You might check your LHS for help, and it is always good to make friends that know more than you about the hobby!
  
  Enjoy!

Brushless setups run so much cooler and they don't have the brushes that generate more friction, or pop off the commutator on a hard landing. They are a little more expensive because you will need to upgrade your ESC to do it, but it is well worth the extra expense. I purchased this kit based on a lot of great reviews and recommendations, and I am very happy with it, it accepts up to a 3S, and runs incredibly well.

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174438&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+sidewinder+3

This one has a 5700kV rating. The Castle Sidewinder is sold in several configurations, I have the 3800kV one on my 1/10.

Hey, another Canadian made basically the same question once before, here's my guide to a quick start on R/C drifting with a Tamiya TT-02D:

For 400 you can get a kit like a Tamiya TT-02D and all you need to get driving with it. The advantage of the TT-02 chassis is it has cheap and widely available spare parts, and it comes not only as a drifting chassis. The -D spec has motor cooling and slippery drifting tires included, but if you mount ordinary sticky rubber tires on it, it will work just fine as a racer too (I do that myself).

What you'll need:

-Basic tools to assemble the kit such as phillips head screwdrivers, allen keys etc.

-https://www.amazon.ca/58605-Nismo-Z-Tune-TT02D-Drift/dp/B00T2DKL5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1513262988&sr=1-2&keywords=tt02d+kit Car kit - there are other bodies available in the starter kit, but make sure you get a kit that actually includes a body!

-https://www.amazon.com/FLYSKY-Transmitter-FS-GT3B-2-4Ghz-Receiver/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511338151&sr=8-1&keywords=flysky+gt3b transmitter and receiver set

Battery pack and charger set: https://www.amazon.com/3800mAh-rechargeable-battery-Tamiya-Charger/dp/B01HDKBRKG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1511341916&sr=8-14&keywords=7.2+nimh+battery+and+charger

-metal gear servo for the steering: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1513263076&sr=8-7&keywords=metal+gear+servo

-Some lexan paint for the body in your colour of choice - I recommend Tamiya PS-colour

The total for all this is about 335 CAD if I'm not mistaken - and it is just about the cheapest option, I really spent a lot of time working out how to try out R/C drifting cheaply when I bought mine. You can get additional wheel sets and such from China on ebay very cheaply.

EDIT: The Amazon links are a reference just to show it can be done - you should probably take a look at some R/C dealers instead since they'll have all the things you might need later on and you'll know they can deliver :) Here in Europe I shop in 4 different countries to get the things I actually want...

Look on Hobbyking. All the things you picked work but are either overpowered, discontinued or really old. (also your radio includes a receiver so you don't need to buy one extra.

Servo I'd suggest (care with warehouse availability)

https://hobbyking.com/de_de/trackstar-ts-d99x-digital-1-10-scale-touring-drift-buggy-steering-servo-10kg-0-08sec-45g.html

Radio (includes receiver)

https://www.banggood.com/de/Flysky-FS-GT3C-Transmitter-Remote-Control-With-Receiver-Color-Gray-p-1068345.html?gmcCountry=DE&currency=EUR&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_ods&utm_content=heath&utm_campaign=pla-rc-de-pc-de&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_vfcBRDJARIsAJafEnGcJNWN3l7zQY5U4o4L9bLDxvMlIhs8h1LcC1ww3a4AQneDmos-5bIaAtM0EALw_wcB

Battery (you could get cheaper ones at Hobbyking if you were ok with soldering a connector)

https://www.amazon.com/Venom-4000mAh-LiPo-Battery-Tamiya/dp/B002QE3AVE

charger (you need a special one for lipos assuming you don't have one already

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-us-plug.html


Makes it all a little more expensive but trust me you'll have more fun this way.

Before you use the Lipo definatly read the instructions tho!

I have no recommendations for a charger, I'm using an older Racers Edge SC1500, so I'm not sure what the current good chargers are. For batteries Venom is pretty good, they come with universal plugs so you can convert to whatever you have. Deans is the standard plug that most people use, it has solid contacts and resists corrosion fairly well.

Venom 20C 2S 4000mAh 7.4 LiPo Battery for Tamiya Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QE3AVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZwsSBbRWXWYA7

There are cheaper batteries too.

Fconegy 2S 4000mAh 40C 7.4V Hardcase Lipo Battery Pack with Deans T Plug for RC Car RC Truck RC Boat, RC Hobby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791W1TKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WxsSBbNMBSZHR


Spektrum brand controllers are good, flysky I've heard has latency issues and cheap components.

Your track may require a LiPo bag to charge in, I recommend getting longer balance plug adapters to go between the battery and charger so you can easily get the battery in the bag.

If you’re running a brushed motor you’d only have 2 leads so it would work. I personally prefer 4mm bullet plugs for the motor myself.

As far as for battery and esc leads I think they’re about the nicest plugs out there. They’re way nicer than deans if you get the version with the cover at the bottom. This way you don’t have to use shrink tubing to cover the soldering. Makes for a nice clean look

Also I find them much easier to solder. They have a C shape to them so you lay the wire in a little channel and can solder away.

Last, if soldering is a bad experience you should consider upgrading your soldering iron. I use a hakko and it makes soldering so easy it’s incredible. It puts heat at your joint quickly so you get on and off without heat traveling everywhere. No wire is too thick or difficult to get the solder to adhere to.

Couple this with a helping hands setup from amazon and soldering becomes a simple and dare I say fun task. Believe me I used to hate it every time.


Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M2ZMDb5GVCP21

I got mine for $70 so maybe check around. Or perhaps they’ve gone up :/


Fstop Labs Helping Hands Soldering Tool, Third Hand Soldering PCB Holder Tool, Four Arms Helping Hands Crafts Jewelry Hobby Workshop Helping Station Non-Slip Steel Weighted Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTZCZPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z3ZMDbM7HTAT0

So helpful. Game changer.

Hey man here is the setup I’m running on my Tamiya TT-02 which is a great setup for cars like this. Here is the esc I recommend it’s good for brushed motors or brushless motors and its can use a sensor setup or just the regular 3 wire. https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-45057-ESC-TBLE-02s-brushless/dp/B00BBQDVO4/ref=asc_df_B00BBQDVO4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241969730126&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11612280333244796961&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028541&hvtargid=pla-470020405324&psc=1

Here’s a motor https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-RS540-Sport-Tuned-Motor/dp/B00061HB0K/ref=pd_aw_lpo_21_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1Y3MMPM5S936MM60GFQA

Here is a radio and receiver https://www.horizonhobby.com/SPMSTX200?KPID=SPMSTX200&CAWELAID=320011980001424751&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37462622311&CATCI=aud-428820958228:pla-517858850546&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwODlBRDuARIsAMy_28WOzcEM0if6evgKdlJqw2XGG8BopV3-Un7W0XCDEYQaCpnO2TzqgrwaAuH1EALw_wcB

Here is a battery https://www.horizonhobby.com/speedpack-3300mah-nimh-6-cell-flat-dyn1070

Here is a charger https://www.hobbytown.com/radient-primal-led-multichemistry-battery-charger-us-3s-4a-50w-rdna0041/p501578

And here is a servo https://www.amainhobbies.com/futaba-servo-standard-fut01102164-1/p608310?gclid=CjwKCAjwwZrmBRA7EiwA4iMzBC4S83jUNQKwpKH8wacu1IaYf0Uhz8KpIiDKi1Fyn4bXcYDPUd-vxxoCT2AQAvD_BwE

thanks for the thoughts. The motor is not attached to the spur gear spins pretty smoothly. The wheels also spin nicely.

I got the spur gear off and most of the teeth look ok, but about an inch of them are pretty flattened or rolled over. Def doesnt look good. It'll work, but I think it def needs to be replaced looking at it more closely.

Can someone help with the difference between this set up:

https://www.amazon.com/ECX-Metal-Gear-Set-2wd/dp/B005QVB9QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492626885&sr=8-1&keywords=ecx+metal

and this?

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-SECT887-Super-Steel/dp/B00XF8FV8K/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00XF8FV8K&pd_rd_r=V49YHGEVADGZV5FNK190&pd_rd_w=M1PhL&pd_rd_wg=FV5m7&psc=1&refRID=V49YHGEVADGZV5FNK190

I think the pinion gear I already have is metal, so I'm not sure I need that.

What's the difference between just the metal spur gear and the whole assembly from ECX?

The Everest 10 is a great crawler to learn on. It's what I gave my 3 year old to learn control. It's also just as capable as rigs at 2-3 times the price. Very upgradable as well. It's on special on Amazon right now for black Friday. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00O9MSR78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4.o4DbP77A8DV

Just like /u/whoknowswho2 said, it's bottom grade. The company is called New Bright and they are basically the cheap, Chinese company that makes tons of these and they are fun, but they have no ability to upgrade. My kids have 2 and they are generally speaking ok toys. The antenna tubes are annoying as I see you also have the antenna missing much like my kids.

If you can get $100 together, get a cheap ECX kit off amazon. This one my buddy has and it is a blast to drive, has 4wd and lots of spare parts. Dont be discouraged by your purchase, have fun, but if you want something to tweak and upgrade, look elsewhere.

I disagree - it is still easily possible to run lipos with a regular esc, especially if you already have a lipo charger.

You will need a low-voltage detector alarm - something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tester-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm/dp/B005GJCJOA
You can set a voltage after which it will go off, and that will warn you that you should avoid discharging the battery further.

As far as battery connectors, you do bring up a good point. The non-traxxas chargers will include a variety of adapters, but none that will directly fit traxxas connector batteries. If you have access to a soldering iron, you can convert your traxxas ESC over to a standardized plug (since you will have the same issues with the batteries). Dean's is what many people use. Theoretically, the traxxas connector has a little more surface area, but in practice, it's not relevant. Your local hobby shop can also do soldering for you. It is possible to charge batteries by just clipping alligator clips onto the terminals, but this is tricky with how concealed the traxxas connectors are.
Regarding batteries, there are three important specifications:

1. Voltage. 2S is 7.4V, which is what you're looking for.
   
2. Capacity. Expressed in milliamp-hours. 5000mAH is a good balance of size/expense/runtime.
   
3. Peak discharge rate. Refers to how much power the battery can supply based on demand. You'll be fine with 20C batteries. The advantage of venom batteries is that they have traxxas connectors if you don't want to do any soldering on your batteries: http://www.amazon.com/Venom-5000mAh-7-4V-LiPO-Hard/dp/B000VUF3O2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1420243945&sr=8-6&keywords=venom+battery+2s
   
   If you don't mind doing some soldering to change the connectors, you can get:
   http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58916__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html

I'm gonna copy paste something i wrote from another thread here because I'm lazy. It may not make complete sense, but its relevant ;) .

>Hey! Fellow redcat volcano owner here! Not sure if you know this already but NEVER buy from redcat's website. They are extremely overpriced. I buy from three places:
>
>AliExpress - Think of it as a Chinese amazon. parts will take about a month to come in on average, but they're cheap. Btw, I would pick this up. And these
>
>Amazon - Usually a little bit more expensive but much quicker. Espicially with Prime. Buy some dogbones from here so you can get the volcano up and running!
>
>Lastly, if all else fails try ebay.
>
>I shop all three for the best deals!

I was only able to find your replacment ESC on Hobbypartz, but I would just upgrade honestly. Also, I've never used that website before, so use caution (as always with the internet).

As for an upgrade, I don't know enough so I'll leave that to some more experienced users.

The Velineon system comes with a VXL ESC that rated for 2S lipos. It's plug and play with your Slash. Replace the motor - throw your pinion on it and mesh the gears - bolt in the esc - plug everything up and you're off to the races. Your batteries should already have the traxxas high current connectors on them.

Glad I could help you - I really like the Velineon motor, you'll enjoy it they are a blast! Not sure what happened to your other motor - sounds like it may have gotten to hot. So probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick yourself up a cheap IR heat gun/sensor. I use a Duratrax Flashpoint but if you have a harbor freight around you they have a gun style on for like $15 or cheaper. Make sure you stay under 200 F on the velineon - which on 2S with stock gearing and tires shouldn't be an issue at all.

I currently only have a single LiPO, which I wayyy overpaid for in a store, it's just a 2S 5000mAh 25C one that I paid $50 for in a store. Have some on order from Hobbyking for half that price. As far as charger goes, I just use a Venom PR2 because it gets the job done in a decent amount of time. For anything with a capacity over 6000mAh though, I would recommend getting a charger you can plug, say, a 25A power supply into. That way, you can basically charge the majority of batteries in less than an hour.

As far as a new motor goes for the Bandit, I wouldn't buy anything brushed. You say you're a beginner, so am I, but a week after I bought the brushed Traxxas Rustler, I went down to a LHS and bought a Castle Sidewinder 3 brushless motor/esc combo as well as a 2S LiPO. I get about 45mph with this setup, but if I was to get a 3S LiPO, I've been told that I can get upwards towards 70mph. So yeah, you COULD buy that Stinger, but seriously, in a week from then you will want more power lol.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Two batteries and a charger for $~35


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

You can use whatever you want. Only consideration you need to make other than price is making sure the battery fits in the tray.

• Battery: get a 2S lipo, make sure the dimensions fit the tray, and also make sure the cables come out somewhat on top of the battery and not the sides (I've got 3 batteries that I've bought for my TT02D because the first one didn't quite fit and the second one has the leads coming out on the edge of the battery which rubs against the tub). This is the battery I just got for mine. Note where the cables come out if you decide to buy a different one.
  
• Charger: depending on the battery capacity, you'll want something that can charge at "1C" (to keep it simple, a 5000mAh would be charged at 5000mA aka 5.0A). Again, here's the one I use.
  
• Transmitter/receiver: I like my Spektrum DX2E, but you can get any setup. The transmitter and receiver need to be compatible with each other. Any receiver should be able to fit in the car though, so just buy what's in your budget with the features you want.
  
  I don't know what the "2-channel with high speed steering servo." comment is for but if you need a servo then I can also make a recommendation for that: PowerHD, roughly a speed of 0.10sec @ 7.4V

Required: Screwdrivers (philips, hex, etc)

Optional but nice to have: hot glue gun, soldering iron


Edit: I once scored this set with a used buggy and it's the best thing ever. I always carry it with me when I go out bashing.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Startup-Traxxas-Vehicles-DYN2833/dp/B002JSV4M4

In the true spirit of the hobby, you should dump some cash in these. But really:

LiPo charger - $48 - Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts): LiPo, LiHV, LiIon, LiFe, NiCd, NiMH, Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port, Temperature Port, 2S-6S JST-XH Balance Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ND7J38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_htDxybG82Q702

2 batteries - $29 ea - Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1tDxybYW7ARFP

2 brushless combos - $43 ea. - GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LuDxybH8WPFP6

2 2.4ghz tx rx bundles - $38 ea - FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LwDxybYGHVVE8

So at $280 they would both be fully up to date with lower end electronics. The sky is the limit.

MIP tools are great and available on Amazon. I was using some crap Dynamite hex drives that stripped three nuts in a row. The MIP tools handled those same stripped nuts without a problem.

MIP's are precision tooled and the reassurance and comfort I get from using them was well worth the price.

Amazon good :)

Edit: This one? https://www.amazon.com/Kinexsis-Ultimate-Surface-Startup-Tool/dp/B017CIT05I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522888691&sr=8-4&keywords=Kinexsis

This will not fit in your chassis. I run a 3s pack in my mini 8ight t. This is the pack I run. I use this to secure it I also have a smaller Venom 2000mah 2s pack that fits in the stock battery tray no problem and provides 20 minutes of run time. I usually use the 3s pack and take it out during my lunch break at work and I get 30 minutes of bashing in the parking lot but I'm pretty easy on the throttle. I don't remember if the 3s pack fits in the stock battery tray but if you have a digital caliper or tape measure you can check.

For a charger just get the Tenergy TB6-B Only extra thing you might need is a charge lead to charge your battery depending on what sort of connector you're using.

If it’s made for a car with the same engine and header you should be good to go. You just gotta make sure your engine is running the right temps

With that being said keep an eye on your engine temps make sure you keep the engine temperature at least 190 degrees Fahrenheit and don’t let it get above 230 degrees

Get yourself one of these is you don’t already have one Duratrax DTXP3100 Flashpoint Infrared Temperature Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144E8A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uhN4DbC3FF8GG

Amazon link to the 18th scale

This option is smaller than the 10 scale ones. It may have some difficulty getting through a yard of 2 inch grass, but it will work well on fine grass like the stuff at golf courses and certainly on dirt.

Here is a set of EPX turnbuckles/rods I found on Amazon. It looks like Redcat uses the same length for all 6 turnbuckles. As others have already mentioned Redcat uses the EPX chassis for a variety of vehicles like this one. If you just search Redcat EPX on Amazon you will find plenty of parts.

As for the part you mentioned "the thing that connects the rod to the differential" is this in the center or one of the dogbones that puts power to the wheel like this one? If you look at the first link with the turnbuckles you will see they are bought together frequently because without a turnbuckle the dog bone can go missing.

For general bashing and on Amazon, the Castle Sidewinder 3 isn't a bad option. They've got a 3800kv, 4600kv, and 5700kv if you want different motor options.

I like my Hobbywing stuff so far, but the price might be a bit more for ESC and motor through Amazon.

Thanks for all of your help 1 more question.i found this truck and other one.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010UQIVYA/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8.is this just a overprice toy rc or a cheap hobby one and is it anygood

from the suggestions below the best middle ground seems to be

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478883490&sr=8-1&keywords=010-0115-02

now if I could just find it cheaper!

https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1538005906&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=20kg+servo

This is probably the best you can get for your budget

Found a nice set of tools on Amazon for $20
Kinexsis Ultimate Air/Surface Startup Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017CIT05I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XRasybWWE16QG

Does that kit look to have the correct sizes???

Here is the charger, seems pretty recommended on most of the sites I've found.

Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs w/ LCD Display Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zRVUBbNY7F8RB

I use a Hakko FX888-D
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ANZRT4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449911132&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hakko+fx-888d&dpPl=1&dpID=41sCMxh%2BAYL&ref=plSrch
Mainly I use it for electronics, but it's a nice mid level iron.

I picked up atamiya rs540 running at 7.4v.

I have the stock spur gear installed.

I’m not certain what pinion gear I should install. The one I bought doesn’t fit, the teeth are to small, I just used 18t thinking it would fit.

Metal Gears. If (and when) you go brushless, you will need a new reciever to run it with, and obviously the brushless combo.

I use this ESC and motor combo in my 22SCT and it's plenty fast enough on 2S lipo.

[To get you started, a budget radio such as the flysky FS-GT2] (http://www.amazon.com/FS-GT2-Channel-Digital-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00KHLDCX4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451086180&sr=8-1&keywords=flysky+gt2)
will set you in good stead for a while, with the added bonus of it being dirt cheap to get recievers if one decides to give up the ghost.

Yes it will run with your 2s LiPo, but it will be slower. As for tools, something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Startup-Tool-Set-Traxxas/dp/B002JSV4M4#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1468421609194) is a good place to start. It should have everything you need to work on your slash. The wheels come off with a hex driver that will be included in the above kit.

You shouldn't need to do anything with the gearing unless your motor is running hot or you strip any gears.

Velineon VXL 3s is just the name of the traxxas brushless system. And there isn't much point to open the Deciever box if there's no issues.

Shock preload spacers are completely personal preference, I tend to use less preload on dirt and more on pavement, but it's completely up to you.

If you have any more questions feel free to PM me or ask below!

Bought these 3 years ago, they are still sharp :) Be careful with power drivers...

all you really need is a charger than can do both nimh and lipo. There are tons to choose from. I don't have a ton of experience with chargers, but most people tend to spend more for a charger that will balance charge, store, deplete, etc. something like this should do all of that

https://www.amazon.com/Combo-Special-Tenergy-Balance-Charger/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483384575&sr=8-3&keywords=lipo+nimh+charger

Check out the Everest 10. It's good for a beginner crawler and has lots of upgrade potential.

https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-Everest-10-Waterproof-Electronics/dp/B00O9MSR78

You'll want a hobby grade rc and they aren't cheap.

DEFINITELY. This battery will last you about 30 mins and will make your truck fly like a rocket. Source: Have a 4WD Stampede and 2 of those batteries.

I’ve been using these ANNIMOS servos from Amazon and they work really well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dbQCDbR6NPM6Q

RE: RC specific tools: get this https://www.amazon.com/Kinexsis-Ultimate-Surface-Startup-Tool/dp/B017CIT05I/

It's totally worth the $22. Don't do what I did, and bargain shop.
This has everything you need and is the standard by all the RC guys I know.

Haven't seen it mentioned here but whatever you buy, get yourself a decent hex driver kit. I always recommend the MIP Thorp kit. There are a couple other quality brands, but I've had these for years and years. If you go cheap here (or worse, use regular allen wrenches) you will be stripping out screw heads left and right and that will absolutely take away from the fun.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JSV4M4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
i am getting good service out of this kit

Haven't had any trouble with the smaller servos, but they really don't get used very often (maybe a half dozen times per run, if that). The servo I use now is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/

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I also have it in a 1/16 rock crawler. Strong (something like 2x the touque compared to the stock TRX-4 servo), drop in without mods, long cable that doesn't require an extension, and it includes a metal servo horn. I've bought several more and will be replacing the servos in other trucks as they die. I also own a $100 Savox 1210, which is still in the original box because the 20kg servo has been working so well. LOL

If you want a budget set you can keep in your pit/travel stuff this one is not bad. I built my B6.1d with it and use it at the track on both my cars. Only bad thing is the edges on the handle can be sharp if you use it with the bits out. Not perfect but for the price it is a good kit. Once the tips wear out on mine, I will just wrap the handle on it and use it as a nut driver. https://www.amazon.com/Kinexsis-Ultimate-Surface-Startup-Tool/dp/B017CIT05I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550537111&sr=8-3&keywords=RC+tool+kit

Thanks again Spark_Tek. I am thinking the Senton is the way to go. Would this charger and battery work well with it? And would I need any other type of connector, concerns about ESP etc.

Also, after researching a bit, some ESP's detect low voltage and that is really important it seems with LiPo. Does the included ESP do a shutoff? The alarm things that get squished in don't appear robust.

iMAX B6AC Version 2 Digital LiPo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGZZ40K
Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WOAWHUK

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ECX-Ruckus-4WD-Monster-Truck/dp/B00FAOM4GY

I am reading to go brushless, with my budget, say less than $300, and requirements, is that possible?

Here is something that might fit your budget
https://www.amazon.com/HOSIM-Terrain-Scale-Controlled-Electric/dp/B010UQIVYA

You can get a e-clip tool https://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Ultimate-E-Clip-Tool-1-5mm-5mm/dp/B001TAJP9W

I have one and it works, but it doesn't guarantee they still go shooting of occasionally. Like others have said, needle nose pliers are the way to go

I got one of these tools, makes a huge difference
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TAJP9W/?coliid=I3K62GM2HK97XS&colid=29SJ85WPFIUIG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

So that's a 9 volt battery, so you'd need a 8 cell NiMH rechargable battery to get a similar voltage (7 cell to under power it, 8 cells to power it properly)

Two batteries and a charger for $~35

You'd need to find a new place to stick the battery though. I usually replace the existing battery box, but it is possible to strap them to the top of the chassis, or somewhere else.

I consider this an entry level charger: Tenergy TB6-B. It does 1S-6S and a lot of connector types. Does Lipo and most other chemistries too. Would be pretty slow at 6s but it's light years ahead of the stock charger for a 8000mAh 2S battery I use (~90m iirc.)

Ah, damn. Yea. It's not terribly difficult to solder, but you do need to be careful that you don't short the battery.

Uh can get all the soldering equipment you need for under $50.

Otherwise, venom makes a decent battery too: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-5000mAh-Battery-Universal-Traxxas/dp/B000VUF3O2

And it has adaptors to deans so no soldering needed.

There's a couple type of batteries around, NiCd, NiMH, and LiPo. Go with LiPo. It's the newest of the battery techs, has wide adoption throughout the hobby, and has longer and more consistent run times. Here's a picture of LiPo batteries next to a NiCd. Also, get a charger that balances.

LiPo batteries come in all shapes and sizes, but for the Brat you'll need a 2S LiPo battery. 2S means 2 cells. These usually come in a hard plastic case, which I recommend since the battery will hang under the truck. It's a very standard size, so you'll have no trouble finding one. What isn't standard though is where the wires come out. I've got 2 types, but found that with the way the pack fits in the Brat, one works and the other just doesn't fit at all.

The problem I ran into with the LiPo hard case is that the overall length of the battery is just a smudge too long to fit between the side retainers. The easiest fix is to put a couple of washers between the retainer and the chassis, but I didn't think of that and took the Dremel to the retainer instead.

The speed controller that Tamiya gives you has their standard type connector, so when you get a battery you will want to make sure it has this connector or an adapter for it. In the past, the Tamiya connectors would get very hot, so be careful disconnecting after a run. If you get more serious about the hobby, you'll be switching to a different connector that made for high currents.

There is a battery that may work with no modification as it's made for Tamiya vehicles, but I have't used it so I really don't know. The wires stick out the end, so I worry about that a little, but it might work.

Hope this helps.

Gen 8 in transit to me but I went ahead and ordered this Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack HardCase and budget charger Lipo Battery Balance Charger Touch Screen Duo Discharger Dual Ac150w DC240W

Check out Gens Ace.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WOAWHUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492268944&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0nHzSG-L&ref=plSrch

Here is the mobile version of your link

Opps

HOSIM 1/12 Scale Electric RC Car Offroad 2.4Ghz 2WD High Speed 33+MPH Remote Controlled Car (Color: Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UQIVYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0Ifmyb9JX8RBS

9.6v flat pack.

Would this battery and charger work?
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connectors/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=pd_aw_vtph_21_bs_tr_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00466PKE0&pd_rd_r=bebe132d-efef-11e8-b0e1-cb0baae9fd4f&pd_rd_w=6ibQu&pd_rd_wg=F0DxU&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=61cf5fd0-cfc9-447f-a425-f14760645161&pf_rd_r=6053DKFZQKYDH8MQ8PTR&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=6053DKFZQKYDH8MQ8PTR

https://www.amazon.com/Zeee-5200mAh-Battery-Traxxas-Associated/dp/B06ZYRCPS3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543067348&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lipo+battery+2s+7.4v+Tamiya&dpPl=1&dpID=41-XoLiW1FL&ref=plSrch

For the sake of research:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QVB9QW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XF8FP1S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=hotr06-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00XF8FP1S&linkId=36e8c41b9f7d958c108538acd1d8c2ac


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XF8FV8K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=hotr06-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00XF8FV8K&linkId=36e8c41b9f7d958c108538acd1d8c2ac

ECX Ruckus 1/18th scale is hobby grade and a blast. If you break anything, you should be able to get parts from Horizon Hobby or order them through your local hobby shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Savox-SC-1256TG-Titanium-Standard-Digital/dp/B004K3FCHO

>redcat racing mt Everest 10

https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-Everest-10-Waterproof-Electronics/dp/B00O9MSR78

I thought I could get away without these when I was building my first kit. After about three hours, my hands were throbbing from trying to use the low-quality tools that I had.

Get the right tool for the job. Buy once, cry once. You'll never need to buy another set in your life.

Here's a link to the set that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7DK0NY

If you're having that much trouble, you know they make tools for that, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-5-Piece-Remover-Installer-01970A/dp/B000W94UEQ/ref=pd_sim_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51FaBAPsREL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=167RWG156PHW1ZRS8MWK

http://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Ultimate-E-Clip-Tool-1-5mm-5mm/dp/B001TAJP9W/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51KCxQW1NUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR151%2C160_&refRID=1CDW5N8MHS0NJYJX8MAF