Top products from r/reloading

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Top comments that mention products on r/reloading:

u/InformationHorder · 2 pointsr/reloading

There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

  1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.

    In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.

  2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.

  3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.

    If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.

    Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.

    Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.

    We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.
u/Oberoni · 5 pointsr/reloading

Cleaning Supplies/General Maintenance

I'm not going to put links to these, but it is useful to have some cleaning supplies for your press. Rubbing alcohol, paper towels, q-tips, dental picks, etc are nice to have around.

Grease is good to have for your press and some oil is good to put on your dies if you'll be storing them for a long period.


Honestly, I’m a little hesitant to write this part. Presses are the single most costly part of a beginner reloading set up and can change the what else you buy. There is a lot to take into account when buying a press and if you’re a new reloader you can’t fully grasp all of those things yet. You don’t know how you prefer to reload or what might fit you best and choosing the wrong press can make you hate reloading while another press might make you a reloading fiend. Remember, you can generally sell your press for a good chunk of what you paid as long as it is in good shape. Don’t let it rust and you’re fairly safe.

>Single Stage Presses:

Single stage presses are the most basic type of press there is, it holds one die and one shell at a time. This means you’ll end up ‘batch processing’ or doing the same step to say 50 cases at a time before switching dies and running those cases through the next step. For example: Deprime/Resize all 50 cases, switch dies and prime all 50, switch dies and bell all 50, etc. Single stage presses are the slowest way to reload, requiring you to handle the cases multiple times and potentially dial in your die setting every batch. They are also the most stable presses, in that there is very little mechanical variation. This makes them wonderful for precision rifle loading.
Many people recommend you start on a single stage press. Handling your brass many times and getting to see the difference in 50 or 100 cases all at once is a great way to learn what works or not and gives you many chances to spot defects.
Most often I hear people worry about “out growing” their single stage press. Remember, you can sell it or use it as a dedicated depriming station. Many reloaders keep their single stage presses just for rifle loads. Keep in mind that presses that connect on both sides of the case will be stronger than C shaped presses. Compare the Lee and Hornady presses below.

Lee Hand Press $29.09

Lee Press $37.84

Hornady LnL Classic $134.89

>Turret Press:

The turret part of the press is above the brass and holds multiple dies in stations. You place a piece of brass and run it through the first station, then rotate the turret and run it through the next station. You continue this until you have a completed round, then start over with the next piece of brass. This is much faster than a single stage and allows you to do multiple reloading sessions without having to reset all your dies. Because there are more moving parts there is the potential for more variation from round to round. You can still make very accurate ammo on a turret press though, you’re average shooter will never be able to tell the difference between ammo made on a turret or a single stage.
You can still batch process with a turret press and I recommend it for new loaders. Again, getting a feel for reloading and what is/isn’t right is very important.

Turret presses usually have 3-5 stations, keep this in mind when buying as it will change your reloading process.

Lyman T-Mag $186.49

>Progressive Presses:

Progressive presses are cool. They hold 3-5 dies and just as many cases all in the various stages of being reloaded. More importantly, that guy over on arfcom said he can make 600 9mm rounds an hour with his progressive. Even their price tags are impressive. Since you don’t want to outgrow your press you might as well jump in with both feet and get a 5 stage progressive right away. Right?

Well, I’d say that depends. Remember way back up at the top when I asked you those questions? Here is where they really come into play. Progressive presses have a lot of things going on all at once. For instance this is my reloading procedure on my Hornady LnL AP press when loading 9mm. On every raise of the ram I listen for the primer popping out, check a case for a powder charge, watch the case activated powder charge moved into the full upright position, place a bullet, and feel for that bullet seating. When I lower the ram I watch the primer tray to make sure a new primer moves into place facing the right way, feel that it seated properly into the next case, make sure the completed round makes it into the collection bin, and place a new case into the shell plate. All of that happens in a second or two. That is a ton of stuff to watch for without a lot of time to do it. You need to be familiar with what all those things feel/sound like before you can do it quickly. If you can trust yourself to go slowly at first and really really try hard to learn those things while running one case at a time through the press, you can start on a progressive. Even when you feel like you’ve done it enough, I’d hold off a while longer to make sure you really have it down before moving to full on progressive loading. You’ll also need to move your case inspection to before you start the loading process as doing it during progressive loading defeats the speed increase you get from the press.
Remember, reloading is dangerous. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. No one will make fun of you for going with a single stage or turret when starting off. You can always sell and upgrade later and by then you’ll have more knowledge about what you want in a press. If you go spend several hundred dollars on a progressive and then don’t like it’s workflow you’re going to have a lot more invested you’ll need to change to move to a different press. If you are in the market for a progressive you need to determine what features you want. How many stations, auto indexing or manual, how expensive add-ons are, etc. While I don’t claim to be an expert on all presses, everything I’ve heard says you’ll want a Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS progressive. Lee is more of a bargain brand and I’ve never heard good things about their progressive presses. Progressive presses are already finicky creatures to set up, no need to add to that frustration.

Hornady LnL AP $449.99

RCBS Pro2000 569.99

I don’t have a link for a Dillon 650, but they usually run about $560-570 from what I’ve seen. If someone has a link I’ll add it in.
Edit: Dillon 650 $566.95


Reloading is a wonderful hobby that you can spend hours and hours on working up a custom load for the best accuracy or making general plinking ammo. It is a serious hobby however and deserves attention and respect.

At minimum you’ll need the following equipment:

Sizing/Decap die
Expanding die(for pistol)
Seating die
Shell plate
Chamfer Tool(needed for rifle)

u/HeWhoMakesBadComment · 1 pointr/reloading

I think it depends on why you are reloading. There are a few benefits to loading your own ammo, and I think everybody that does it will agree that the biggest draw is just the hobby of it. It's fun to do and your results are palpable. First off, not all ammo is cheaper reloaded. It really depends on how much you shoot, what you shoot at, and what kind of components are you using. I personally reload for the accuracy advantage. This is mostly gained in a bolt gun, but semi-auto's can benefit too. That 30-30 too heavy for your girlfriend? You can load extra light loads for it, or extra hot ones it doesn't matter. However, unless you are hunting thick brush with that gun I would just buy factory ammo, shoot what? 40 rounds year? You can't get very good accuracy with a lever gun anyways so unless you are currently blasting through a ton of ammo it won't be a good caliber to start with.

Most AK's or SKS's suffer from week accuracy as well. These guns are best used with open sights. This caliber is what spam cans are all about. Buy a bunch of surplus and chop down a tree. But again, if you are hunting with it then by all means load your own. The small gains in accuracy translate to better payoff when the target goes from paper to fur. Also, military surplus ammo is unsuitable for hunting, you could buy hunting ammo, but loading your own will be better.

which leads us to the .300 BLK, or the 5.56. The 5.56 will be better at longer ranges, the .300's advantage is at close range against flesh. So if you hunt big game the choice is obvious. But if it's target shooting you want to up your game on the 5.56 will be the way to go.

And if you didn't already, go get the LEE reloading manual and keep it in the bathroom. Read the whole thing before buying anything else. Keep in mind that the book is a sales pitch for LEE reloading products, but it does a great job of explaining the processes. Once you have a press, you can get dies for all your calibers. I had a really good experience at my local gun shop on my first reloading investment. It was cool to have an actual human who has years of experience to talk to and pick his brain.

OK lastly, don't worry about your long term setup. Get the ball rolling and if you can score a sweet deal on something that can just get you going go for it. You may get laughed at at the range but using a lee hand press is cheap, and effective and is a fun way to slow down your shooting and focus on accuracy.

u/sirJ69 · 3 pointsr/reloading

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.

Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide

--Hornady Shell Holder
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide

--Reloading Dies
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.

What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

u/Quantis_Ottawa · 5 pointsr/reloading

Here's my 2 cents.

  • Don't get the kinetic bullet pullet. They are messy and break easily. Look at the Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller and associated collet for your caliber. Works super well.

  • With the Lee Gauge/Holder thing for case trimming. Stick that sucker in a drill (I use a drill press). I believe you will need this piece as well to hold the gauge.

  • Drop the digital scale. The kit comes with a balance beam scale that's probably more accurate and doesn't require a warm up time. It's also not sensitive to what type of lighting you use.

  • Highly recommend the Hornady Comparator for your calipers. It makes measuring the round much more accurate. You'll probably also want the OAL Gauge down the road.

  • The Chronograph is nice but you won't need it until after you have worked up your load. Then you'll shoot a 10 shot string over it and not touch it again. It might be better to leave that for a later purchase or see if you can borrow one for a day once you're ready.

  • I have a RCBS Rock Chucker and I converted it with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bushings and it's awesome. I'm not sure if the lee can do that but it would be a nice addon.

  • Buy a powder trickler. It will keep you sane and save you time until you can buy a automated trickler. It's big $$ but ultimately worth it.

    Otherwise good luck. Your first load will be scary but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at the accuracy you can achieve. Also the self reliance part is cool too!

    EDIT: If you're looking at a tumbler get the stainless steel kind. WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY better than anything else. So good that I've switched to bring my brass to a buddy who has one instead of doing it in my media tumbler.
u/crab-bait · 2 pointsr/reloading

•Jennings JSVG-20 Compact Digital Jewelry Scale.

If you can, save for an RCBS chargemaster

•RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure

Again - get a chargemaster

•Reloading Manual is this manual relevant to reloading for M1 Garand?

Your link doesn't take me anywhere for the manual - I like Nosler and Hornady manuals. I do not like the Barnes manual. I do like the Barnes bullets which is the only reason I have the manual

•RCBS 90200 Hand Priming Tool

I prefer Lyman's hand priming too. I like Lee's better than RCBS's but the Lyman works best for me

•RCBS Fold-Up Hex Key Set do I really need this?

You will need an allen wrench set but you can get one at an auto parts store or hardware store. I like the ones that have the ball end to allow you to use at an angle

•RCBS Universal Case Loading Block

Get two

•RCBS Case Lube Kit, lube, pad & brushes

I like Hornady Unique case lube in the tub but it's all I've ever used. It doesn't take much and one tub lasts forever.

•RCBS Powder Funnel, .22-.50 Caliber

Yes - get this

•[Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool](

I don't care for this tool. Lyman makes individual tools called primer pocket uniformer (used after every firing) and flash hole cleaner (only needs to be used once)

•RCBS .30-06 Springfield SB T/C Die Set

Yup - Die set box tells you which shell holder you need - I like this

•RCBS 9203 #3 Shell Holder got this right?


•EAGems Digital Caliper, in SAE/Metric, 6 inch/150mm. Again, would like digital, opinions on accuracy?

Whatever caliper you can find at a reasonable price - digital is much quicker for me to read

•RCBS 9440 Bullet Puller without Collet

I have a cheap one from Cabelas that came with three different collets

•[RCBS 30/7.35 Bullet Puller Collet] - see above

•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler

I have a friend that bought three different ones as they all shook themselves apart - I bought a Dillon with a lifetime warranty

•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler
•Frankford Arsenal 887335 Arsenal Brass Polish. 8 Oz. - I've had good luck with fiberglass boat polish poured right in to the walnut shell media

Good luck and have fun

u/alpaca_bowl · 2 pointsr/reloading

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

u/random157294683 · 8 pointsr/reloading

Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.

So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.

Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.

Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.

Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.

Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.

RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.

RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.

What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.

Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?

What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.

There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.

That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.

u/Metengineer · 7 pointsr/reloading

Press. The minimum I suggest to start with is a Lee Turret press. ~120.00. The turret allows you to perform multiple operations without removing the brass. When I loaded on the turret I would deprime/size then expand before pulling the brass into the bin. I primed off of the press. When ready to load I would drop the powder, set the bullet and crimp. So I only had to place the brass on the press twice. With multiple turrets you can set your dies up once and not need to go through the entire process each time.

You will need dies. ~40.00-60.00. Lee dies work. I don’t like them as much as I do RCBS. If you get the Lee set get the set with the factory crimp die. If you get the RCBS or other company (the only other I have experience with is Lyman and they were awful) get a Lee factory crimp die as well. Crimping in a separate step from bullet seating will help you diagnose problems. Getting the crimp right is probably going to be your first struggle.

You will need a way to prime the case. $35.00 to 65.00. Do you want to prime on the press or off? I suggest off. Lee hand primers are decent. I suggest the RCBS hand primer however. When priming hundreds of cases at a time it is nicer on the hand. I use the universal. The only issue I have ever had is priming .45Colt. It did not want to hold onto the case very well. (I see that Lee has some newer models that I have not tried, these may be easier on the hands) To prime on the press just buy the tool for the press that you choose.

Powder scale. $35.00 to $100.00. I use the Frankford arsental digital. I check it with check weights before I start but usually don’t need to recalibrate. I have checked it against my Dillon scale as well as laboratory balances at work with acceptable results. They are not perfect and not as precise as other scales. Some have reported having problems with this model. I am using it for loading pistol loads on my progressive and the precision is good enough. Maybe I just got a good one. Get the type you are comfortable with. If you go with a beam scale don’t get the Lee, spend a bit more on a better RCBS scale.

Powder thrower. ~70-100.00. I use a Hornady powder thrower. I had the Lee Perfect powder measure. It is junk, don’t waste your money. Fine powders leaked past the barrel and large flake measured poorly. It is stiff even with ball powder. Get a Hornady, or RCBS and it will last you forever.

Brass cleaner$40.00-100. I use water with stainless pins.
Pros: No dust in the air of my basement, no cob bits in the flash hole, really clean brass, and media lasts forever.
Cons: Expensive to get setup, stainless pins can get lodged in the brass, it is necessary to dry the brass after cleaning.
I think the pros outweigh the cons but it’s my opinion. The cheapest way to go with this method is the harbor freight rock tumber, a piece of PVC (4” I think), an end cap and a removable fitting. If you want the particulars I can send you what I do.
Starting off it is probably easier to just go with the corn cob tumbler.

Brass trimmer. $40-60.00. I use the lee delux qk trim on my turret. I have used the lyman cam lock style trimmer, it works but is just not as convenient. The cheap Lee case conditioning kit is junk. You only need to trim your rifle cases but it is worth getting a decent trimmer.

Calipers. 35.00+. I use a set of Mitutoyos. You don’t need those, though they are nice. Just don’t get the cheap harbor freight calipers. I have used a friends Frankford arsenal calipers and they were decent.

Then you will need bins and hardware. Get some stackable bins that you will be able to get more of as you get more brass. Keeping my brass well sorted and put away is my difficulty. Usually there are bins, jugs, mesh bags etc. littering my benches of brass.
I usually tell people to expect to spend $500.00 as your startup cost. You can try to spend less but you will end up spending more by replacing the cheap components.

u/sixcharlie · 3 pointsr/reloading

It does add up quick but it will stabilize. I'm very new to this myself and after getting little things like a kinetic bullet puller you eventually get all the things you need. By the way, I don't bother with the collets that came with it, I just use the appropriate shell plate for the cartridge.

I'm loading three cartridges now (.270 Win, .223 and .45 ACP) and now only need primers, powder and projectiles to reload. To start loading a new cartridge, I'd also need dies, shell plates (if I don't already have it in a kit), and the three Ps.

Other things on my wish list are a powered case prep station (my hands wear out when dealing with crimped primers) and I see why higher end presses have a handle bar instead of the palm ball.

Anyway, sorry to ramble there, it sure feels good to make your first hand load, and feels even better to shoot. Congrats!

u/SpareiChan · 3 pointsr/reloading

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

u/ahorribleidea · 5 pointsr/reloading

I would recommend upgrading to a nice digital scale, it will make things easier.

Maybe get a few of these if you haven't yet thought about how you're going to store your loaded ammo.

I have that same tumbler, works great. I would also suggest a separator for afterwords. Some brass polish is nice too.

I think that kit comes with a hand trimmer, but I would recommend a larger one, your hands will thank you.

I went with a Lyman kit for my starter set, and while it's a lot more expensive than yours, I've been very pleased with it.

When you start doing 223 you'll also want a case length trimmer. This one works pretty well for me.

u/DragonCenturion · 2 pointsr/reloading

Check the FAQ like the sidebar says. But I've got nothing pressing at the moment so here:

I'm answering your last question first. The Lyman manual is definitely a good place to start. And you should purchase that first and read it before you purchase anything else. It will answer most of your questions and keep you safe. It is also recommended to get other brand manuals as well, such as Lee or Hornady. Every manual is different and will give you a broader base to start from.

Press: I'm a single stage guy so I can't help with the press. You will need caliber specific dies. All brands work, Lee is the cheapest, RCBS is kinda the standard, Dillon a step above RCBS, Forster is generally regarded as the best. If you use carbide dies you don't really need to lube pistol brass. And if you do lube, its personal preference. I use a 10:1 alcohol lanolin mix that I spray on the brass inside a gallon ziplock, then shake around a bit.

Tumbler: I use the HF dual drum with a modded drum. It works fine for me as I do small batches of rifle brass. You should probably look at the FA Tumbler or something larger. It comes with media and a small packet of their detergent. Most people have great results with dish soap and a pinch of lemishine. And you really shouldn't need a primer pocket cleaner if you wet tumble.

Bullets: Those bullets should work well. And its mostly personal preference and what shoots well out of your specific firearm.

Powder: Powder is something you either buy in person or large bulk orders. The hazmat fee is a killer unless you are ordering the max weight per order, which is normally about 50 pounds. And unless you are dead set on a certain powder, most people use what they can find locally. The Field and Stream should have powder, I've never been to a Walmart that sells smokeless powder. And read your manual to know it that powder has load data for what you are loading.

Primers: Primers for the most part are personal preference, they don't affect loads until you get into long range precision rifle. And see the powder above about hazmat fees.

Calipers: Those calipers will work.

Chronograph: You really don't need a chrono for what you'll be doing, at least initially.

Have fun and stay safe. Welcome to the rabbit hole that is reloading.

u/bovinitysupreme · 2 pointsr/reloading

I feel your budget pain! I was lucky enough to get into reloading during a rare time in which I could go further in debt up to my eyeballs, but even I need to cut corners as much as I can while I concentrate on preparing for post-election shortages. At your budget level I'm going to disagree with the other commentor who recommends dial calipers; $10 digital calipers from Harbor Freight or eBay are decent and will serve you well for a few years.

Your plan fails at primer installation. Neither the hand press nor the Ultimate Rifle Die Set (good choice, IMHO) is provisioned for priming. You'd need to get a Ram Prime die or some sort of separate primer such as a hand primer (avoid the Lee hand primer because it uses proprietary shell holders).

I recently added the hand press to my collection. The hand press is nowhere near as large or heavy as its photos make it look. It's a light-duty, dinky little thing. I'm glad I have it but I wouldn't want to use it as my main press, just as an accessory. It's ok for decapping when primers aren't in too tightly, but some cases have been more difficult and I have to lay it down and repeatedly slam it (putting my fingers at risk, there's not a lot of finger clearance). I was thinking of finding appropriate pipes to use as cheaters.

IMO its best uses are light-duty decapping (using a universal decapping die or a larger caliber's sizer/decapper; NOT the sizer/decapper from your caliber's die set) and Ram Prime usage while sitting on the couch, and mobile bullet seating at the range when you have already sized/prepped the cases at home. I would not want to use it to size .308win cases, that's for sure! Some can be tough even with my Rockchucker Supreme.

For almost the same price you can get the 90045 Lee Reloader (not to be confused with the Lee Loader), a disposably-priced but (reportedly) well-built simple single stage C-press. Bolt it to a block of wood, then clamp that to the kitchen table or your desk (or the bench at the range) when you want to use it. (You'll still need either a Ram Prime or a hand prime tool.)

(Edit: I missed where you commented on your furniture clamping worry. You can clamp it without leaving a mark. Harbor Freight's cheap bar clamps have nice rubbery plastic covers, and you could place another block of wood, even plywood, on the underside to spread it out even more, and you could even sandwich in some rubber or plastic.)

Yes, always choose carbide dies if they are available. They aren't that much more from Lee and they save time/effort, which you'll appreciate especially since it sounds like you'll be tediously hand-cleaning all your cases. Does Lee offer carbide .223 dies (or does anyone else offer them at a similar price)?

Immediately get at least a cheap $15 digital jeweller's scale that measures in grains. The dipper is convenient but you shouldn't do without a scale of some sort.

Once you get into the swing of it, 1000 cases won't seem like as big of a time investment as you thought...though a tumbler would help. Do you have a treadmill? If so, you can use a $1 barrel from Dollar Tree, $4 Hartz corn cob bird litter (though finer media might be more pleasant with .223), and a glob of car polish or whatever similar stuff is handy. Place barrel on treadmill, block the end with something heavy (or turn treadmill around so open end is against a wall) so the barrel can't roll off, and run treadmill at 1.5mph for 90 minutes...cases come out sparkling clean.

Also, I'm not sure if you'll save much/any on the .223. As someone else mentioned, steel-cased (with allowed bullets) can be pretty cheap -- cheap enough to pay for the extra barrel wear twice over.

Of all the reloading components, bullets are most expensive (you already own the brass) and disappear fast. If you get into casting and can source scrap lead then you can definitely save money on .223, but casting is even more equipment investment (financially, and your limited space, plus you ought to do it outdoors).

u/OMW · 1 pointr/reloading

9 mm isn't really cost effective to reload, but it is a lot more forgiving than 7.62x54r to learn on and you can basically get started reloading for 9mm with just a $30 hand press, a set of dies, and some basic components. Maybe start simple and then move on to rifle cartridges as skills and budget grow? I learned on .44 mag and branched out from there. I think straight wall revolver cartridges are the ideal "beginner" cartridge, but you already own a 9mm so that's probably the next best thing.

Highly recommend reading this book if nothing else. It'll help you figure out what you need to get started and covers most of the basic essentials.

u/A_Plinkers_Damn · 4 pointsr/reloading

Here's a (very) rough guide:

  • Start with the FAQ. It'll help you find answers to 90% of the questions you'll have.
  • Move on to Youtube. It has plenty of reloading info to help you make decisions.

    Now, spend some money by:

  • Getting a good manual. The standard is Lyman, but I honestly prefer Lee's. Read the first third or so of whichever one you get a few times. That'll give you an in-depth review.

    Once you've got all that down:

  • Decide on how you want to start/what your budget is. Go back to the FAQ and start figuring out what you can/want to afford.

  • Order your gear.

  • Get your consumables. Do not buy a bunch of powder/primers/bullets until you've had a chance to figure out what your gun(s) like. Once you do... THEN buy in bulk.

  • Build your bullets.

  • Shoot your first reloaded round with one finger and flinching away from the gun. (Everyone does it.)

  • Don't save any money at all, because reloading just means you shoot more.

    Also, for a K11, you'll be best served by buying some cheap PPU ammo and reloading it instead of buying fresh brass. It'll let you get used to the rifle AND save you the cost of brass.

    Have fun!
u/bjw9696 · 1 pointr/reloading

The thought process for reloading is that you are able to shoot more for the same price. While that may be true, I save money by limiting the number of rounds I take to the range so I can always have a supply at the ready for what ever emergencies may arise. If you have the mindset of "if I have it, I am going to shoot it now", cost savings is not a reason to reload.

With that said, the list above is very thorough. There are a couple of things you can look at and first, is the bench. This is my bench. I used the 2X4 Basics for my bench and love it. If you live in a wet environment it helps by having the plastic on the floor and not wood. This also makes it easier to clean around your bench. Secondly, if you are planning to shoot a lot at one time and don't want to space your cleaning out, you might want to look at a larger tumbler (My opinion! I don't have anything against my purchase of the HF tumbler except its capacity). If you and your friends are mechanically inclined, you can build one.

Lastly, you wanted to know why you should be reloading. This is tough to answer because it is different for everyone. I reload for these reasons (not in any particular order):

  • 1- Cost
  • 2- Ammo that is tuned to my firearms
  • 3- Cleaner firearms after a trip to the range (compared to factory ammo)
  • 4- Quality control
  • 5- Knowledge - Especially in the environment we are currently in. Trying to figure out how to make a recipe work for you when you can't find your go to powder or bullets.
  • 6- Entertainment - I enjoy it. I can tune out many of life's issues because I am focused on the process. Plus, if you have friends or family that can be involved in the process, it may spur them to start loading as well. The network of friends and family is invaluable.

    Everyone has their own reason to reload. They may not 100% agree with mine, but that's what makes it a community.

    Also, don't forget to use the 20% off coupons at harbor freight. I bought my digital calipers there for $12. They also have an ultrasonic cleaner that works well.
u/cawpin · 2 pointsr/reloading

As somebody who just last night setup and ran my first batch of wet/SS brass after nearly 20 years of vibratory tumbling, I'll tell you the following: (based off using the Harbot Freight dual-drum machine)

  1. It is no faster, or even the same speed, unless you have a very large tumbler like the Frankford Arsenal.

  2. The noise is similar, maybe slightly louder because of metal on metal clinking.

  3. The cost of supplies will probably be about the same, maybe less; a squirt of Dawn and a case full of Lemi-Shine per batch.

  4. It isn't as simple as vibratory tumbling. You'll have to figure out the recipe that works best for you, including speed vs cleanliness.

  5. Separating is more difficult and time consuming. (Granted, I haven't figured out a good quick way because I'm just starting)

  6. Drying is more time but is included in my initial statement about it not being quicker. It really isn't longer either. It does, however, require more space the vibratory because of this step. You have to put them somewhere to dry, be it in an oven or laid out and blow dry them.

    All that said, the results I got the first time were great. The brass was as shiny as my vibratory polished brass was, I don't necessarily go for the brand-new shiny look, and the insides and primer pockets were ABSOLUTELY cleaner. Most of the cases were completely clean inside both. There were just a few that had some small spots that weren't but still WAY cleaner than vibratory ever got them.

    The only thing I need to figure out is how much Lemi-shine to use and how much time to get the brand-new shiny look. It'd be nice, but not a requirement.
u/DBDude · 1 pointr/reloading

For calipers I'm not sure about going with gun brand name since the price tends to go up just because gunz. This thing is probably just as good as your Frankford, but much less money. It's $17 and pretty much the same thing as the Hornady that goes for $27. Just look for general calipers that have the best reviews and you're bound to get a better deal than that one. Definitely look to see if they maintain zero for a long time, since you don't want it to be off several thousandths by the time you've measured your COL on your 50th bullet of 100.

u/red__panda · 3 pointsr/reloading
  1. higher weight bullets will give a slight better performance for wind but not worth it for plinking ammo.

  2. I dont know, i just use enough powder that cycles the system successfully.

  3. YES I use a lee hand stimmer with a cutter and stud in a drill.

  4. for 223 it do not think the price of brass is worth spending all the time to anneal.

u/WesbroBaptstBarNGril · 33 pointsr/reloading

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)

7.62x54r Reloading Dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)

Case Tumbling Media

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)

u/8492_berkut · 1 pointr/reloading

Definitely get yourself a set of calipers. Even low-cost units can do you quite a bit of good as long as you don't expect too much out of them. Something like these can get you where you need to go.

With bipods, there's definitely some technique to be learned with them. You should remember to load the bipod while shooting. This article should help you understand. Also, cruise around on that site as it has an absolute wealth of information on it.

It sounds as wind didn't have much of an effect, so that's good. Keep it in mind, though, to shoot in a similar condition. If the wind is blowing when you start shooting, try not to shoot during a lull in the wind, and vice-versa.

Regarding your sizing die, try to adjust it where you have a good amount of contact. You should feel it hit the shellholder when you're working through the upstroke. It's hard to explain, kinda like when you know when a bolt is snug enough via the good old German spec - gudentite. ;)

u/Kuric1 · 2 pointsr/reloading

You may want to look into a turret style as it'll make things easier and faster. Like the Redding T7

Also you may want to get a Frankford Arsenal digital scale it's 1/3 the price and has better reviews.

I'd go with the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler it's easier, holds more and the brass is cleaner. Also no dust.

Also get the Lyman kinetic bullet puller it's got a nice soft handle the collet puller is nice if you have a lot of them to do.

And don't forget a case gauge for each caliber

u/HumidNut · 1 pointr/reloading

I like the Lyman manual for the sheer number of bullet styles and, in general quality of information. That's what I typically suggest a "new" reloader. Other than that, I suggest the manual for the bullet mfg that you see yourself shooting a bunch of. If you shoot speer, get the speer, hornady, get the hornady, etc.

As for a digital scale, they go from super cheap to sky's the limit. I got a Gempro250 some three years ago, prior to that, used a PACT. Both are good, but that damn Gempro is $50 more on Amazon than when I got mine (I paid $143 on April 23, 2015, hey forgot to have a birthday for it...). Brownells has the Gempro250 for $130ish, but with the code MDX that knocks $10 off the scale and free shipping to boot. The calibers you list don't seem to strike me as the precision type, so a $130 scale might be a bit excessive.

I've heard decent things about the Frankfort Arsenal Scale, seen a bunch of people use them, but I cannot personally vouch for the product. I have used a bunch of the Caldwell/Frankfort Arsenal/Battenfield products and have found all of them of good quality and value.

u/Garandxd · 9 pointsr/reloading

The Lee Classic Loader that you chose, says not for semi-autos since it doesn't full length resize. It just sizes the neck. I would get something like this instead:

You would need to swap out the dies between operations but this way you could control variables. I'll check back later today with more suggestions.

BTW, my Garand is a CMP Field Grade H&R circa 1953. Stock is a little beat up but metal is great and she's a great shooter.

u/looking4ammodeals · 3 pointsr/reloading

I recently invested in a Frankfort arsenal tumbler, but before that I used an old rock polisher to wet tumble. You can also use an old jug or 5 gallon bucket with a good seal to do the same thing. They all come out about the same, but I was tired of waiting for brass to dry since I am very impatient person lol. If you’re going to wet tumble I used a small splash of dawn dish soap and a 9mm case of lemi shine. If I used the rock tumbler I would let it go for about an hour, switch the water, and then do another hour. If I was doing it by hand with a 5gal bucket or an old jug I would I would do it on and off while watching tv and would switch the water once or twice once I could see it was really dirty. You can kinda tell when the brass is clean enough for your liking. Since I don’t pay for electricity, I would put a large box fan in front of it to help the drying process.

u/HeadspaceA10 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Ordinarily I wouldn't recommend a progressive as a first kit, since there's quite a bit of reloading that I prefer to do on a single stage: Fine-tuning rifle loads for accuracy being one of them. Starting out on a single stage gives you the opportunity to see in detail what each die is actually doing and how to adjust them. But I'm sure you can still learn on a LnL AP. I use a Dillon, but in the end it's the same general idea.

This is what I always recommend to people who start out reloading:

  1. Get this book and read it cover to cover.
  2. Interested in reloading for semiautomatic rifles? Understand that you will need to be extra careful about what kind of primers you buy, and about the headspace of your cartridges. Read On Reloading for Gas Guns. Still interested? Buy the RCBS precision mic or similar type of cartridge headspace gauge, a wilson gauge, and start slowly and deliberately. Most of what I reload is for semiautomatic rifle.
  3. Buy a reloading manual. If you ended up getting one with your press, buy another reloading manual from a different manufacturer. Reloading is an "engineering and science" activity. You don't want to trust data from just one source. You want different, corroborating sets of data that came out of different testing facilities.

    If you take the metallic reloading class, a lot of that stuff will be covered. But if you learn how to reload in the benchrest environment and then start reloading for some kind of autoloading rifle like an AR15, G3, M1A/M14, M1 etc then you are playing with fire unless you approach it from a different angle.

u/dorkra · 1 pointr/reloading

If you get the breech lock hand press (loaded my first thousand or so rounds on this..) don't forget the bushings for the dies.

Two trays for holding pre and post rounds would be useful. And a cheap scale. I used [this] ( but another option would be this one.

A loading manual. You might want to get one before you do anything else, read it completely, and then go from there. Primers and bullets are pretty easy to get right now (at least in this neck of the woods) but powder is still plus or minus. See what powders you can even get. Online is always an option, but you have to pay an additional hazardous materials charge to have it shipped (~$28) so for small volumes of powder, it's can add quite a bit to your cost.

u/blorgensplor · 2 pointsr/reloading

I used this bench bracket kit from amazon. It's kind of pricey for what it is but the brackets are actually pretty nice. You could recreate them by just using steel brackets from lowes but you'd probably still end up paying a decent amount for them. All you need is the lumber to finish it up.

As for the presses, I'd probably sell all but one. Considering it's single stage you'll have to change out the dies for each step anyway so it won't be anymore trouble to change calibers.

For the paint cans, you don't need them if you're just wanting to put them there for weight. It'll cover enough area to where it'll be stable without it.

u/SmoothSlavperator · 3 pointsr/reloading

Yeah...a Lee press is like $30.

Lee RGB Dies are $20. You'll save a lot of headaches.

Shell holder

Case trimming......If you really want to do it the ghetto way, you can use a piece of sandpaper, laying it flat on a table and rubbing the case mouth in a consistent manner on the sandpaper. Alternately you can use a coutersink bit from Home depot and just hog off the excess brass with a hand drill. Trim die is probably your next cheapest option.

Digital scale like this is alright....just check it with a known value each time you use it. Use a bullet or a pellet gun pellet or something. If you're using a middle burn rate powder like IMR4064 or Tac or have to be pretty far probably ten grains... before it gets dangerous if you're going for a middle of the road charge. Consistency is more important for accuracy.

Simple ram type primer....or just use the priming function of the lee loader you already have....

And then a set of calipers to check your length

u/TacoRave171 · 5 pointsr/reloading

I use one of the Frankford Platinum Series (marketing wank) trimmer/case prep centers almost exclusively.

I have a WFT and its pretty much on permanent loan to a friend that just reloads 100 or so here and there. Pushing a case up into the trimmer and shavings collecting in the housing made it a no go for me for long sessions. If you're not doing a ton of trimming, this should work fine.

I have used the Lee precision Cutter and Lock Stud and don't think this is useful for anyone for more than about a dozen cases at a time, though it does give consistent results.

I have an RCBS Trim pro and I'm sure if it was bolted down to a dedicated spot on a bench it will work just fine, but I don't have that kind of room. Or a bench.

The Frankford Trimmer does a few things I really like. It adjusts with the collets and shoulder guides for a very repeatable cut in just about any caliber imaginable, but most importantly, its comfortable for long sessions. It also busts your $150 requirement, but not by too much.

I place it standing upright in a plastic tub (to catch errant shavings) and use Gloves like these when trimming. I trim relatively clean brass, let the rubber on the gloves grip tight against the case head, and just hold my hand, using gravity and weight, on the case head until I feel the cutter stop cutting. Done. Use the deburr and chamfer tool running off the same drive train and it goes into a bin. I actually worry more about overheating the motor than I worry about being uncomfortable over long sessions. I've used it for thousands of 5.56 and .308, often in increments of a few hundred at a time.

u/sqlbullet · 3 pointsr/reloading

I am gonna elaborate a bit on the lee press thing.

If I count my presses by brand I have 3 by Lee, 1 by RCBS and 1 Dillon.

If I could only have one press, it would be the RCBS.

But, I load the fewest rounds on that press, and use it the least, so why would the RCBS be the one press I would keep.

The answer is simple. It does pretty much anything I need done, just slower than any of the others. And it does a few things that would reduce the others to scrap.

If you are looking for a budget option to learn reloading, and only reloading, then get the Lee Reloader Press. This is a "C" style press and is my most used press. In fact, I have two of them.

Generally can be purchased for under $40. In fact, amazon has a prime eligible returned press right now for $29.91. Add a Lee Ram Prime and a set of Lee dies with a dipper and you could be reloading basic pistol or rifle for about $71 in equipment. This is probably your best route as you can offset the cost of the equipment in short time.

Go this route and by the time you have recouped the cost of the press, you will know enough to make a good informed decision on your next press. Or you may be happy.

But, one time I had a wild hair and wondered if I could swage a spent 40 S&W case down to serve as a jacket blank for a 200 grain 10mm bullet. You can, but not on a Lee Reloader C press. I used my RCBS press, and had to make some of my own tooling.



Ram Prime:


Full Disclosure: I have never used the Ram Prime. I started with an RCBS kit that included their hand priming tool. I included the ram prime as it is the cheapest option.

u/rubbinisracin · 1 pointr/reloading ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

  • A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.

    This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
u/oshaCaller · 3 pointsr/reloading

If you aren't doing much volume the lee trimmer is the best budget minded one you can get.

8 bucks and then each caliber is 8 bucks or less

you don't need to trim 9mm

I've had to trim .357 because I had a bunch of different range pick up and they varied greatly, wouldn't seat on the cannelure right.

I reload for my ar15's, so buying the WFT for .223 was a lot easier than all the blisters the lee trimmer would cause.

They also have this thing, it would be a lot more comfortable.

u/cosmos7 · 1 pointr/reloading

That's cool and all, but for the same money you could buy a Lee Hand Press and a universal decapping die, and have a more useful tool.

u/Barry_McKackiner · 1 pointr/reloading

I have the same wet tumbler you do. I use this media separator to spin around the cases to remove any pins I missed from shaking out the tumbler into a big bucket. Works very well. I fill it with water and do one run through water and then another run in open air.

Also, GET THE MAGNET those little bastard pins get everywhere and your life will be 100 times easier with the magnet to pick them up quickly.

As for drying them after, I got THIS food dehydrator. works like a charm. It's got a good price point and it has temp and timer controls so you can set it and forget it. I usually run it for 1.5 hours at 130 degrees to dry out my brass. I'd also recommend additional mesh nets as smaller cases like 9mm want to fall through the outer spokes. The nets prevent this and also let you put more on there completely horizontal to get any remaining water to drip out.

u/Bareen · 4 pointsr/reloading

The 3lb would work, but if you can get a deal on the 6lb one, I'd get it. I have the 6lb one(dual drum) and if I remember correctly, I do 50 cases of .308 or 7.62x54r cases per drum, each works out to be about 1lb of brass. For 9mm and 45acp, I weigh out a pound on a kitchen scale.

I do 1lb brass, 1lb stainless steel pins, 1 lb water, a squirt of laundry soap, and a 9mm case worth of lemishine.

I deprime before cleaning with a Lee depriming die.

I tumble for 30 min to an hour, then separate from the pins, rinse, and let dry.

I also load on a single stage about once a month, and it works great for me.

If you have any questions, you can PM me.

u/lilkiduno · 4 pointsr/reloading

For your requests I would recommend the following:

Harbor Freight Grinder Stand


Lee Reloader Single Stage Press

Lee Universal Decapping and Depriming Die

Frankford Arsenal Tumbler Kit

This will get you in the door with pretty much the basic tools to begin your cleaning & depriming steps taken care of.

You can piece this together $25-$30 at a time. This set up will give you a work area you can make as big/small as you need it.

u/buckyboo22 · 1 pointr/reloading

I'm in the process of wrapping up my new reloading bench. I'm using this kit from Amazon. If you flip through the user-submitted photos you can see a few people who are reloading with it, as well as all sorts of different ideas for configurations.

Given my space constraints I made mine 6x2'. Conveniently that means one 4x8' sheet of plywood gave me enough for two shelves plus two smaller middle shelves. It took me about an hour to cut the wood and put together the workbench. I had Home Depot cut the plywood for me but cut all the 2x4s myself. Total cost for the kit, all the wood, pegboard, some matte poly, and a paint brush is right around $200.

My upper shelves aren't done yet but will be 4' wide to support a nice big piece of white pegboard. I've ordered an LED shop light for lighting.

Even though I just have the lower part done it's awesome. Way way way sturdier than the crappy-ass "workbench" I had from Harbor Freight before.

I'll post pictures once the bench is done and the 550B is mounted to it, likely Saturday.

u/jafakin · 3 pointsr/reloading

I'm not too sure exactly, what you mean by too high. Most bench mounted presses are going to have some vertical dimension, like the Lee Classic Turret press. If you really wanted to save space and height was a non-starter, you could also get this:


Basically, it acts as a single stage press, but it is very portable, and can do anything you have die for.

Personally, I use the hand press to deprime and resize. I like really clean primer pockets. Then I'll use my Turret press to load power, seat the projectile and the add a crimp.

u/50calPeephole · 2 pointsr/reloading

I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:

  1. Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit: $120 shipped
  2. Electronic scale $30
  3. Reloading trays (2) $5 ea.
  4. Case de-burrer thingy $25
  5. Misc Case length trimming widgets $10
  6. Reloading Manual: I found mine free online in .pdf form, but take your pick.
  7. Bullet puller $12

    Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.
u/bbartokk · 1 pointr/reloading

Unless you have a really good kitchen scale I wouldnt go with it. I've had good luck with this Frankford Arsenal scale.

u/TubesBestNoob · 1 pointr/reloading

I own one and it's great. I strongly advise you to reload only one bullet at a time for at least a good 500 rounds before you make use of the progressive reloading capability of the press. Normally I would tell people to go with a single stage first, but I think choosing to reload only one round at a time in a progressive is a safe enough practice.

For rifle rounds, I never use the LNL and prefer single stage since the shell holder disk is only going to get in the way if you are resizing / removing the shell / wiping off case lube / trimming / chamferring / deburring / knocking the brass filings out of the case / putting it back in the shell holder for priming / powdering / bullet loading.

Finally, if you haven't already read this book, go read it before reloading anything.

u/vey323 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Me and my dad started with this Lee kit, but ended up replacing the stock scale for a digital one. And of course whatever dies you need. We do pistol mainly, but will eventually do .30-06 and .223 rounds.

You'll also want to get a good set of calipers, and a tumbler to clean brass.

u/XSlevinn · 1 pointr/reloading

Loadmaster user here. You will need to trim brass every so often, depending on the cartridge. I have been checking my .223 every time but that's mostly because I don't think I have even done a second loading on my brass because I find so much range brass. You are supposed to trim after resizing, since resizing can extend the length. You'll have to trim off of the press unless you can get one of those fancy trimmer dies.

Here are my steps:

  1. I clean my brass first to help keep my dies clean. I use stainless tumbling media

  2. deprime/size all of my cases

  3. Trim, chamfer, debur, ream primer pocket. Right now I use the Lyman EZ trimmer, but I will be getting a Giraud Tri-way Trimmer in the near future. It trims, chamfers, and deburs in one swoop.

  4. Run my brass through the press without resizing and decapping since I did that in step 2. So step 4 will just prime, drop powder, seat, and crimp.

    I'd look at a Lee decapping die. I just got one and started using it, and it's really nice. It doesn't do any sizing. It just removes spent primers. Since it doesn't size, my brass doesn't need to be clean so I run dirty brass through it to decap so I can get the primer pockets a little cleaner (never noticed a difference when they were dirty, though)

    So what I have been doing lately is running my brass through the decapper first, then I clean, then I size, trim, then run it through the press for the rest of reloading.

    It adds a few more steps since I'm not sizing and decapping at the same time, but at least this way I can just decap real quick and not have to switch sizing dies or worry about my dies getting dirty or messed up from dirty brass.
u/ProgrammaticProgram · 2 pointsr/reloading

The kit would not have a tumbler, it would have a press (a thing w/ a lever that raises the shell up and down against the dies, is bolted to a table/workbench). The dies include a deprimer usually. You need a sturdy bench/table that you can mount a press on btw.
You could probably buy $400 of the expensive/good stuff, and let him round out the cheaper stuff.

Here’s a list of important stuff:
This press is great: Lee Precision Classic Turret Press (Red)

The 4 hole thing is interchangeable. So u can swap out different calibers quickly w/our adjusting the dies again.

Lyman Gen6 Digital Powder Measure

I learned a digital powder scale is what you want, this thing increases productivity a lot.

Could recommend a few more items

u/SparklesTheRhino · 1 pointr/reloading

My only concern with that Lyman press is the amount of room (or lack thereof). When loading rifle cartridges it seems like it might get a little tight and hard to work with. I've also heard that Lee has 2 different models of turret press and one of them is garbage. But I've heard this one is actually pretty decent.

It has the auto indexing feature and is less than $100 and plenty of room to work's pretty tempting. Or it it really that bad?

Im trying to keep everything below $500 to start with. Can you recommend some good dyes for 223/308?

u/bdsmchs · 1 pointr/reloading

Lyman case prep multi-tool:

Lets you chamfer and debur using a drill or powered screwdriver. It comes with adapters that are threaded 8-32 so you can put ANY cleaning rod attachment in a drill, or other tools like primer pocket uniformers, etc.

Best $20 I never spent (Was a gift. Would buy again though).

u/Mouseater1 · 1 pointr/reloading

I don't know how to help you when I don't know what is in the kit in the first place. You will needs dies for sure though, for an inexpensive scale you can use AWS gemini 20. I have that and like it, and here is a video review comparing it to expensive ones as well



u/Hartf1jm · 1 pointr/reloading

As /u/IMR800X stated, I'd get away from the spring loaded dies and get a single stage bench mounted press. Buy once, cry once. Any decent single stage press will last you decades of use. So with that being said I'd recommend either the Lee 50th anniversary or Hornady Single Stage kits. Both come with a lot of nice extras that you have on your wish list. The Lee press is about $100 cheaper and the press is solid and reliable, but I like the Hornady bushing system better for quick die changes. The Hornady kit does come with the reloading manual, a digital scale, and a bit of case lube which is a nice upgrade over the Lee. Either way you will still need to buy calipers, a bullet puller, and a set of dies.

u/ExSim · 1 pointr/reloading

I started out using a plastic RCBS dial caliper, but the teeth in the dial gearing started skipping so I had to find a new one. I went with this one from Amazon. I was skeptical, given the low, low price, but it was reviewed pretty well and I've been using now for several months and find it's working great.

u/Damn_The_Torpedoes · 1 pointr/reloading

Lyman 49th edition is great

Nosler 7 is good too

I prefer the Lyman one; it has more data for each cartridge. The nosler manual doesn't have a lot of pistol cartridges listed. Lyman also has data for cast bullets for virtually every cartridge.

u/pedee · 2 pointsr/reloading

I just started to and you need to chamfer and deburring tool.

This one is the best IMO

If you are reloading 556 brass with a crimp around the primer you may also want this tool that also fits into the above layman tool.

You can get the crimp off with a razor or the first tool but its easy to put this in the drill chuck and crank them out by the numbers.

u/PR3VI3W · 1 pointr/reloading

The primer pockets are definitely cleaner. I will load almost all of them without using a primer pocket cleaner because they are plenty clean. It's not as loud as I was expecting but it's definitely not quiet. I would still run it in an apartment I just wouldn't put in right up to a wall.

That's what I bought.

u/I922sParkCir · 2 pointsr/reloading

>You need a powder measure.

The Auto Disk Powder Measure is included with Lee 4 Hole Turret Press Deluxe Kit.

>You don't need a case tumbler. Just clean the primer pockets then wash and dry cases. This will save you money, time, messy clean-up and lower your blood's lead levels!

From researching, I would prefer to clean my brass. If anything it will give me an extra step to look for signs of wear.

>Also, since you initially omitted so many items, I think you should first buy only the Lee Modern Reloading book, sit down and read the relevant portions

What items did I omit? The only things I've added to my list are the Lee Auto-Disk Adjustable Powder Charge Bar, and a better scale, and those things aren't needed, just helpful.

>You seem to be rushing this.

What makes you think that? I'm currently reading The ABCs Of Reloading and will have it finished before I start.

u/ickyfehmleh · 1 pointr/reloading

The RCBS-style media separators, with a closing lid, are ideal for this. As an added bonus you don't have media flying everywhere.

u/sammysausage · 1 pointr/reloading

I have a Frankford Arsenal one that I'm pretty happy with.

u/giantpeckawood · 2 pointsr/reloading

I use the [Lee Universal Decapping die] ( but changed the pin to the hardened one from Squirrel Daddy. Works great for the 6 different calibers I reload. Haven't had one break and can't recall having to even adjust the sliding pin.

u/limited_vocabulary · 3 pointsr/reloading

The ABCs of Reloading is great. I happen to like the Lee manual and use it in conjunction with manufacturer websites when I am developing loads.

u/slimyprincelimey · 1 pointr/reloading

Your best bet is getting him a brand new [lee] ( You're not gonna beat that price, and they do work, quite well.

u/MNBigDog · 2 pointsr/reloading

Check out

If you have Amazon Prime this will be the cheapest new press

I highly suggest that if you go with the Lee, get the Classic Cast Turret, not their "Lee Precision Turret". The classic cast is built far superior. I own one of every type presses Lee makes, except the 50 BMG. I had the 50 BMG, but chose to go to the Hornady, because it had more leverage for resizing and better Die's for making competition loads.

I use my Lee presses for the other 25 different calibers I reload and compete with.

u/19Kilo · 1 pointr/reloading

I bought this to make a bench:

It's handy in that you can make it fit any size since it's really just the attachment points for the wood. You can also take it apart and expand it if you get more room.

u/SamsquamtchHunter · 2 pointsr/reloading

Well then heres a great place to start on your own - ABC's of Reloading

u/tausciam · 1 pointr/reloading

I started out with a single stage press about a month ago and my first round was 300 blackout. As a matter of fact, that's the only thing I'm reloading right now. I've made 220 rounds so far.

I did it on an RCBS single stage, but it's 45 years old and was given to me by my Dad. If I had to start from scratch as a beginner, I'd get this kit and be happy

u/nootay · 1 pointr/reloading

i would suggest a digital scale. I use one of these scales and occasionally dump it on my weight based scale like the one in the supreme kit to make sure its accurate. i do calibrate before each use.

u/MrBrian22 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I always recommend getting analog calipers instead of the digital ones. That way you don't have to worry about batteries dying on you, and in my experience, the analog ones give much more consistent readings.

I would also suggest that you skip the Hornady case trimmer, and go ahead and upgrade to something like the Frankford Arsenal Prep center.
Yes, it's $100 more, but after doing about 50 cases by hand, you'll be ready to get an electric trimmer, and then you'll just have the $75 manual trimmer sitting there unused (unless you plan on trimming straight-walled cases) The Frankford prep center would also give you a chamfer/deburring tool, and primer pocket cleaners, and you can simply get a military crimp remover for it like this. that would fit right in the prep station (which could be a big bonus if you get into military 7.62x51 brass)
As far as dies, I like the Lee dies, and if you want "precision rifle" rounds, then go ahead and get the four die set, so you get both a full length resizer and a neck sizer die. I also like Lee dies because they include the shell holder and they have the crimping die seperate from the bullet seating die (but that's personal preference)
Lastly, I can't speak for the Hornady Neck Turning Tool, but I would suggest not getting that yet, and putting that $100 towards the prep station. I don't have experience with neck turning, but I really don't think it'll give you that much added accuracy.

u/kipy3 · 1 pointr/reloading
If you're somewhat handy this is a good route to go with. You can make it as long as you want and its pretty robust.

u/_Riddle · 0 pointsr/reloading

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use.

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

u/perrdav · 1 pointr/reloading

He probably got them on Amazon. I have the same legs on my bench. They're great - just need to buy some 2x4s and plywood and you're set.

u/gaius49 · 1 pointr/reloading

Are you sure you really want a manual one? This one has been good to 0.001" in my experience... and its not a carpel tunnel machine.

u/evilbit · 5 pointsr/reloading

i got me a lee equivalent to use for decapping. it's perfectly fine for that purpose, but i'd go nuts if i had to load ammo in this thing.

if i was you, i'd wait till i can save a bit more and get the rockchucker instead - decision is not even close in my view.

u/Etatheta · 1 pointr/reloading

I wouldnt say its the best but I use the frankford digital scale. I calibrate it before each batch but its always worked well and been accurate for me

u/cjd3 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Buy Mr. Hookhands Book ABC's of Reloading. Best book out there for anyone who reloads. Your press will come with the 9th or 10th Hornady book too.

u/Long_rifle · 2 pointsr/reloading

You can get a LEE hand press for pretty cheap. Uses the same dies, and I always have a use for it. (Like resizing brass on the job while I wait for things to break). No bench, and you can learn the fundamentals.

u/dapperpanda · 8 pointsr/reloading

> American Weigh Digital Scale, 100g [0.01g sensitivity $10.42 Qty: 1

You probably want to go with something that displays in grains, otherwise you'll need to convert all of measurements from grams/oz. I use this one and it is ok.

You're gonna mess up.

You'll probably also want some way to store / carry the rounds you've made.

I'd also recommend a case gauge. I don't remember which one I bought, lyman maybe? ABCs of reloading too, if you haven't read that yet.

u/wparsons · 1 pointr/reloading

Most vibratory tumblers aren't so loud you'll have problems with them in an apartment. You probably won't want it sitting in the room with you while it's running, but it's not so bad that it'll likely cause complaints from your neighbors.

Here's a pretty good kit that includes a tumbler and media separator for $66 or just the tumbler for $45

u/SpiderRoll · 5 pointsr/reloading

That would be a great gift. You should get a scale that is specifically aimed at reloaders - that is, one that is set up to weigh in grains. It only needs to be precise to 0.1 grains. Anything "lab grade" is overkill for reloading.

You can choose to go with a balance beam scale like these:




There are also digital scales that are cheaper and easier to use, but less durable and lack the character of a balance beam scale:

Frankford Arsenal


u/H00t1e · 1 pointr/reloading

I just got this to start loading 308.

Works like a charm and makes everything else very fast. It only works with necked cases however. But it takes standard thread sizes and is able to do any caliber out of the box no extra pilots or accessories needed.

I did however order a primer reamer and uniformer for it also

u/zod201 · 2 pointsr/reloading

you'll need a powder measure, scale, dies, shell holder, some callipers, a bullet puller, and consumables of course. Not necessary but reloading manuals and the The ABCs of reloading Personally I'd get the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that comes with most everything you need, and upgrade as you see fit.

u/soggybottomman · 2 pointsr/reloading

I'd recommend the lee turret, because i'm a lee fanboy! I think i have the anniversary kit. 4 holes on mine.

Edit: mine may not be sold anymore? Grab a

u/justarandomshooter · 1 pointr/reloading

It can be a pain, but it doesn't have to be. If you get this little tool or something similar it can really expedite things.

I take the small primer pocket reamer, chuck it into a hand drill and proceed to ream out 50 cases in less than five minutes.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/reloading

You might want to use this URL for the ABC's of Reloading.

And this one for the Hornady book.

(You can't purchase the books from the links you posted, for some reason.)

Nice primer, though. (pun intended)

u/PeterPriesth00d · 1 pointr/reloading

> The Lee scale is despised...

Yes. I hate that thing. Frankford arsenal has a cheap digital one that works great:

u/nappiestapparatus · 3 pointsr/reloading

I have this one:

I'm sure it's not as nice as $100-$200 scale but it measures to 0.001g, +/- 0.005g (only 20g max though). It's worked well for me so far.

u/OGIVE · 1 pointr/reloading

Also, get a stuck case remover Sooner or later you will stick a case in a die.

The RCBS case lube pad is a PITA. Hornady one-shot case lube is much faster. You can make spray case lube with lanolin and alcohol (google it) but it smells like sheep.

I load for my Garand with standard RCBS dies, it is not likely that you will need the small base dies.

I have loaded tens of thousands of rounds in 23 calibers without using a case gauge. I have never needed one. I don not agree that a case gauge is required.

You can get the hex key set for less without the branding You need hex keys for the lock rings and other things.

An impact bullet puller is usually enough.

You will need a case trimmer.

That caliper looks good. The $12 digital caliper will also work.

u/AlwaysDeadAlwaysLive · 6 pointsr/reloading

I learned everything via youtube and reading The ABC's of Reloading.

Iraqveteran8888 had some good videos on reloading that helped me out a lot.

u/ten24 · 3 pointsr/reloading

> The only glaring omission I see is that you need a bullet puller.

Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered this

u/therocketlawnchair · 3 pointsr/reloading

So looking at buying my first press and noticed that amazon has the lee jeans logo on the lee press. clicking on it takes you over to the jeans. lol

u/Deeplorable_Infidel · 2 pointsr/reloading

I know this debate is an endless one but I'm going to put in my two cents for the Lee Classic Turret.

It's more flexible in it's usage than a single stage, but can also be used as a single stage.

u/The_MadChemist · 8 pointsr/reloading

Grab yourself a copy of the ABC's of Reloading ( and a reloading manual. I like my Lyman 50th (

Looking at two pages in Lyman shows that .308 needs large rifle primers while .223 needs small rifle primers.

I really can't recommend the ABCs book enough. The author lost his hands in an accident, so he's committed to safety, haha. Reading through that will, at the very least, let you know what you don't know.

u/lyric911 · 1 pointr/reloading

This one. Not a reloading manual in the sense of being a bunch of load data, but is an entire book just about the process. It's fairly cheap on Amazon as well.

u/TheSkoomaCat · 3 pointsr/reloading

For the record, those digital calipers aren't made by Frankford, but are re-branded. You can get the same set "made" by several different companies but cheaper, like this set.

Not that there's anything wrong with the Frankford ones. Just pointing it out in case you were interested in saving a few dollars.

u/oosickness · 4 pointsr/reloading

well that does make it difficult now doesn't it. I have one of these if you would like it just pm me your address if you feel comfortable and ill mail it out

u/sewiv · 4 pointsr/reloading

$35 (nope, $31) for a hand press. $30 (nope, $42) for a die set. $15 (nope, $29) for a scale. $10 (nope, $15) for some Harbor Freight calipers. $15 (nope, $34) for a hand priming tool. $20 (nope, $26) for a reloading book. There you go, you can load pistol with that.

(Wow, stuff got expensive since I bought it.)

edit: It's been a while.

u/BexarArms · 1 pointr/reloading

Consider using a kit like this if building a whole bench from scratch is a little too much for you.

u/Croc_Warrior · 2 pointsr/reloading

I use one of these because The individual bits will all fit on my power drill. Makes removing the crimp or bur from trimming simple and quick.

u/rm-minus-r · 2 pointsr/reloading

Chamfer the inside of the case opening and your bullets will sit in the case without any issue. You can use something like this tool. Takes just a second or two to do it.

u/thepyrodex · 4 pointsr/reloading

The handle unscrews and all the pieces fit inside including the chamfer and deburring parts

u/phareth · 2 pointsr/reloading

I would think you want a turret for each caliber you are going to reload.

I could be wrong though, I'm not familiar with this press.
You also need a scale. This is what I use:
Digital Scale

You also need some sort of media separator
Less Cheap:
Enclosed Separator
These are just examples, you should shop around for the best price.

u/lerkkmore · 1 pointr/reloading

This works nice. Accurate to 0.02gn, so I feel confident about my tenths. You'll want a small weigh boat for larger charges (I use folded tin foil). Cheaper and more precise than the name brand models. My buddy's got the cheap Frankford arsenal scale, and for the same money this one's much nicer.

u/Wapiti-eater · 2 pointsr/reloading

Do yourself a favor and borrow/buy a copy of this book.

Or, if you feel you're enough up to speed to start, take a visit to this site and do some shopping. See what you're willing to spend or do without.

As a starter, this setup/kit is a popular and common setup for what you're describing. Except for the 12ga stuff - that'd take a shotshell press and unless you do a LOT of that, may not be worth the expense/hassle. Up to you.

As for your question about die-setting: dunno but nothing about a "pressroom", so can't say for sure - but it could be.

edit: added 3rd link

u/Tom_Pain · 1 pointr/reloading

I've never used it, so I don't know how hard it is to re-size, but Lee swears it works, and it is big enough.

Here's the other "cheap" press.

2-die .308 set

2-die .223

The 2-die sets will work with either press.

u/DustyAyres · 1 pointr/reloading

The ABCs of Reloading is the book I recommend for people who are new to reloading. No load data, but a lot of info on many different aspects of the process.

u/CMFETCU · 2 pointsr/reloading


Read this book cover to cover:

Then read it again.

Once you have done that, you should understand the basics of working up loads and what to look for in much more detail than you will get in a post from here.

u/LocalAmazonBot · -3 pointsr/reloading

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries: