(Part 2) Top products from r/reloading

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

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I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.


Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
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What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$462.64
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Plate-by-Number/
$41.33
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Hornady Shell Holder
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Holder-by-Number/
$5.00
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Reloading Dies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD6PO2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$43.89
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.14
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10.60
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560230&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+gun+cleaner
$13.28
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Spray-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B0001NA29U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560743&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+case+lube
$13.44
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-50140-Camlock-Case-Trimmer/dp/B000PD6QJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561942&sr=1-7&keywords=case+trimmer
$88.99
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Edition-Handbook-Cartridge-Reloading/dp/B00A95QWGM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563579&sr=8-2&keywords=Reloading+guide
$39.80
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
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What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Case-Tumbler-110-Volt/dp/B000PD1XE4/ref=sr_1_17?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375559938&sr=1-17&keywords=media+tumbler
$83.58
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-287178-Brass-Cleaning/dp/B001GX8DS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561385&sr=1-4&keywords=tumbling+media
$20.10
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-9993-Case-Polish/dp/B002L9D8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561809&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+metal+polish
$14.17
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
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What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.15
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPL80Q/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.56
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-1536-480040-Universal-Loading/dp/B000GU8WU4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375559333&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=universal+ammo+reloading+tray
$11.38
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Universal-Case-Prep-Accessory/dp/B0034LAVUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375562159&sr=1-2&keywords=case+prep+tool
$55.79
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$18.99
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1WOJ2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$27.99
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPR300/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$39.89
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D6ZLXE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$30.57
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Bushing-Pack/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563887&sr=8-1&keywords=Hornady+AP+die+bushing
$42.22
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.
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What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ3NNK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$99.99
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XI0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$5.78
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU9VU4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$24.99
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
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I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

Here's my 2 cents.

• Don't get the kinetic bullet pullet. They are messy and break easily. Look at the Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller and associated collet for your caliber. Works super well.
  
  
• With the Lee Gauge/Holder thing for case trimming. Stick that sucker in a drill (I use a drill press). I believe you will need this piece as well to hold the gauge.
  
  
• Drop the digital scale. The kit comes with a balance beam scale that's probably more accurate and doesn't require a warm up time. It's also not sensitive to what type of lighting you use.
  
  
• Highly recommend the Hornady Comparator for your calipers. It makes measuring the round much more accurate. You'll probably also want the OAL Gauge down the road.
  
  
• The Chronograph is nice but you won't need it until after you have worked up your load. Then you'll shoot a 10 shot string over it and not touch it again. It might be better to leave that for a later purchase or see if you can borrow one for a day once you're ready.
  
  
• I have a RCBS Rock Chucker and I converted it with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bushings and it's awesome. I'm not sure if the lee can do that but it would be a nice addon.
  
  
• Buy a powder trickler. It will keep you sane and save you time until you can buy a automated trickler. It's big $$ but ultimately worth it.
  
  Otherwise good luck. Your first load will be scary but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at the accuracy you can achieve. Also the self reliance part is cool too!
  
  EDIT: If you're looking at a tumbler get the stainless steel kind. WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY better than anything else. So good that I've switched to bring my brass to a buddy who has one instead of doing it in my media tumbler.
  

Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.


So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.

Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.

Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.

Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.

Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.

RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.

RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.

What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.

Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?

What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.

There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.

That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.

I have all of those pieces except the case prep center and they are all great. I was happily reloading my rifles with this.

I also bought a Dillon 550 and I love that too. I do 9, 40, 556 and 300 with it.

Then a friend dropped about 2k of 5.56 brass in my lap. The case trimmer and "by the hand" primer pocket cleaning and deburr of the neck got old really fast.

I bought the Universal Trim station which basically is an automated case trimmer and built in case prep center. After some out of box problems (RCBS quickly sent me replacement parts). I love that too.

I will say even though I purchased [this crimp remover] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422572881) and it's the first thing I'm actually dissatisfied with. I still don't have reliable primer seating (occasional primer crushes) on the Dillon.

I moved over to this as a step in once fired brass prep, and then go ahead and clean out the primer pocket using the crimp removal thing (on the trim station) from above and things seem really solid now.

I hope that helps, stay safe and have fun.

RCBS has great customer service. I don't think you'll regret getting that kit.

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

I would recommend upgrading to a nice digital scale, it will make things easier.

Maybe get a few of these if you haven't yet thought about how you're going to store your loaded ammo.

I have that same tumbler, works great. I would also suggest a separator for afterwords. Some brass polish is nice too.

I think that kit comes with a hand trimmer, but I would recommend a larger one, your hands will thank you.

I went with a Lyman kit for my starter set, and while it's a lot more expensive than yours, I've been very pleased with it.

When you start doing 223 you'll also want a case length trimmer. This one works pretty well for me.

Indeed!

On this turret, all you have to do to make it a single-stage is pull off the turret head (lift up and twist) and then pull out the spiral-twisted auto advance bar in the center (it just sits there and is held in place by the turret.

Lock the turret back on and now you just change stations manually.

To go back to auto-advance, all you have to do is drop that auto-advance bar back in and away you go. No tools, maybe 5 seconds.

If you're ready for a bit of a steeper learning curve, you could dive in to the progressive, but if you don't have a reloading buddy to help you get set up, dialed in, and learn how to clear malfunctions, I'd not recommend it for a first-timer. Once you have the hang of things though, it's like hopping in a sports car after driving a Ford Festiva your whole life.


Now with a cool instructional video. This guy's whole channel is great for reloaders. He apparently has every press known to man and knows them all inside and out.

I like Lee, but I can tell you that I wouldn't buy a kit with one. You will replace most of the kit almost immediately. I ditched the scale for a digital one (GEM20 large platform version. I replaced the powder measure with an RCBS. I got a Lyman case prep hand tool. Eventually I also got a Frankford case prep machine as well. You'll also want a powder trickler.


Stuff like the RCBS and Hornady kits do include some of these better components in the kit, though still seem to use mechanical scales (personally I greatly prefer digital).

Case Cleaning




Case cleaning isn’t strictly necessary as long as the case isn’t filled with dirt or something. A tarnished case will shoot just as well as a pretty shiny one. That said clean brass is easier on your dies, is easier to reload, doesn’t turn your fingers black, is healthier(fired cases have lead dust and other nasties on it) and in general is far more impressive when you show it off to people. 


There are several types of case cleaning systems. I’m going to go over the basics of each and provide one link to that genre.




>Chemical:


Chemical brass cleaning is usually a solution of detergent, acid, and warm water. Usually vinegar and some variation of dish soap. This will clean off your cases fairly quickly and without a whole lot of work. It might turn your brass a funny color though and if your soap has ammonia in it may weaken the cases in an unsafe way. This is the cheapest method of cleaning brass.



>Vibratory Tumbling:


A vibrating tumbler is filled with corn cob/crush walnut media and your brass. When turned on the whole thing vibrates(gasp!) and after a few hours your brass is shiny. This is probably the most common way to clean brass. The downsides are that the insides of the cases don’t get cleaned and if you deprived before tumbling sometimes the media gets stuck in the flash hole. It also produces a lot of dust, both from the media and the lead residue in the rounds. Because of this it is not recommended to do anywhere that small children will commonly be or where food is prepared. It is also fairly loud, apartment dwellers will not want to go this route.

Frankford Arsenal Vibratory Tumbler $40.93



>Sonic Cleaning:


Sonic cleaning is one of the fastest ways to clean your brass. You add your solution, let it heat and shake out any bubbles then dip your brass down into it. Sonic cleaning does a better job than vibratory cleaning, but it doesn’t remove tarnish beyond what the cleaning solution will do chemically. Since all the cleaning happens in solution there is no dust to worry about.

Lyman Turbo Case Cleaner 106.31




>Wet Tumbling:


Wet tumbling uses a rotating drum full of water, soap, and stainless steel pins to clean your brass. Wet tumbling will take even the dingiest of brass and make it look like factory new. It cleans the inside and outside of cases and if the cases are deprimed first it will clean the primer pockets as well. Again there is no dust because of the water.

Thumler Model B 189.95 You’ll also need 5lb of stainless steel pins which will run you about $40. 





Storage



When you reload you’re going to need a bunch of containers to hold your stuff. This can be old shoeboxes, coffee cans, tupperware, etc. But you’re going to need it. You’ll also need a way to easily get to your components from your storage. For something like tupperware you have a nice big shallow container it is easy to grab from. If you’re using a taller container or one with a narrow mouth(coffee can for instance) it is harder to reach into. 




For storage I use Akro bins to hold components I’m using. They stack nicely, hold a lot of weight without flexing, hang off my press, and are easy to get things out of.


Priming systems



Some people like to prime their cases in their press. Some people like to do it separately with a hand tool. Hand tools are nice because they are portable and since priming is relatively low risk many people do it while watching TV and then double-check everything afterwards. This is one of the “nice to have” things depending on your preference. It is generally not required to reload. 



RCBS Hand Prime $41.99


Lee AutoPrime $19.99




Many hand priming tools will also require a set of shell holders mean specifically for priming tools.


Lee Priming Tool Shell Holder Set $16.99




Primer Flip Trays




When using primers in a press you’ll need them all to be facing the same way. This is a very tedious process to do by hand. Primer flip trays use a series of small grooves to flip the primers all upright in just a few light shakes.

RCBS Primer Flip Tray $9.95 These can be found for much cheaper.


Case Lube



If you are reloading rifle cases or using steel dies you’ll need case lube or it’ll get jammed in your press. You can get spray on lube, roll on lube, and lube you just put on using your fingers. It all depends on what works best for your workflow. Roll on lube is put onto a pad or sponge and the case is rolled across it before being put into the press. 





Imperial Sizing Wax $8.39




Lee Case Lube $4.19




Lyman Spray Lube $7.99




You can also make your own for ~$7 per 32oz.
Make your own lube





Dies




Dies are one of the most important parts of your reloading set up, they physically manipulate your brass and bullet back into firing condition. In general you’ll need a set of dies for each caliber you reload. Some calibers like 44spl/44mag or 38spl/357mag can share the same die set, but you should confirm that the die is meant for that. Most dies on the market have a 7/8"-14 thread. This means most presses will accept most dies, though some presses take their own unique type so make sure you double check before purchasing a press/dies.




Dies can range from a $30 Lee set to a $500 set of custom precision dies for long range rifle shooting. Because of this I’m going to describe what the different types of dies do for you, this should allow you to make a more informed decision about what sets to buy.


>Decapping Die:


These usually come in two flavors; Universal and combined Sizing/Decapping die. The universal decapping die is just a large cavity with a decapping pin in the middle. It doesn’t touch the sides of the case at all, it just punches out the used primer. This is useful if you want to deprime your brass before cleaning. Clean brass is easier on your dies as there won’t be any dirt/sand to scratch them. A Sizing/Decapping die will not only remove the spent primer, but squeeze the round back to factory dimensions to help with feeding. If you are using a straight walled case, like most pistol cartridges, you don’t need to use lubrication if you buy carbide dies. If you are using steel dies or resizing a case with a shoulder(most rifle cartridges), you’ll need case lube for this die. 



>Full Length Resizing Die:


This die resizes the entire length of the brass, from the case mouth all the way down to the extractor groove. They will also round out slightly damaged case mouths. These dies often contain a decapping pin and are sometimes referred to as Full Length Sizing/Decapping dies. 




>Neck Size Only Die:


When a bullet is fired the case expands to exactly match the size of the chamber it is in. Using a full length sizing die squeezes the entire case back to factory dimensions. While this is a good thing for rounds used in a semi-auto firearm that needs that extra slop to function, for a precision rifle full length sizing is unnecessary. In fact all that extra sizing shortens the life of the case. Enter the Neck Size Only Die. This die sizes just enough of the case to allow for proper tension on the bullet and extends case life. Most precision shooters use these. 



>Expanding Die:


For straight walled pistol cases you must bell the case mouth enough for a bullet to be properly seated.


>Powder Through Expanding Die:


Sometimes called a PTX Die also bells the case mouth, but is hollow in the center allowing you to pour powder into the case. These are especially useful when combined with a press mounted powder thrower. 


+1 on the Lyman 49th. A lot of people use different presses and like anything else out there, people have good and bad experiences with them. The balance with presses is how much you shoot, and how much you want to spend. If you shoot 100's of rounds a month, you might want to think about spending a little more and getting a progressive. If you shoot 50 - 100 rds a month you can probably get by with a single stage. I'm right in the middle and I bought the Lee Classic Turret. I like it because I can have it auto index and load quicker for pistol rounds but take the indexing rod out and have a single stage if I want to load rifle some day. A lot of good people on this sub that are willing to give good advice.

If you get a progressive or a turret that's a 4 hole press, I recommend getting 3 die sets and using a powder cop die to help you watch your powder.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

I recently invested in a Frankfort arsenal tumbler, but before that I used an old rock polisher to wet tumble. You can also use an old jug or 5 gallon bucket with a good seal to do the same thing. They all come out about the same, but I was tired of waiting for brass to dry since I am very impatient person lol. If you’re going to wet tumble I used a small splash of dawn dish soap and a 9mm case of lemi shine. If I used the rock tumbler I would let it go for about an hour, switch the water, and then do another hour. If I was doing it by hand with a 5gal bucket or an old jug I would I would do it on and off while watching tv and would switch the water once or twice once I could see it was really dirty. You can kinda tell when the brass is clean enough for your liking. Since I don’t pay for electricity, I would put a large box fan in front of it to help the drying process.

Honestly, for $116ish I'd opt for the [Lyman Case Prep Xpress] (http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Xpress-115-Volt/dp/B004TABTWU/) and save ~$10ish. Amazon reports that the Lyman unit is free one-day delivery, too. I have one with an [RCBS military crimp remover] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/) that I'd highly recommend.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

• A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.
  
  This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.

I had the Mr. BulletFeeder for about 2 weeks now. It works really well. Easy set up if you follow the instructions on the website; it doesn't come with any directions. And following the directions, you have to expand the neck before seating. The Lee Universal Flaring Die works great for that.

I was looking at this. I'm guessing it's a pretty good deal. Thank you so much for the info, you've been very helpful.

I would invest in some case gauges and headspace gauges. This way you can do a plunk test to make sure they're in spec without actually doing a plunk test in the firearm. I tend to check every 5-10th round to make sure they all seem to be in spec.. There's nothing worse than loading 200 rounds and find out that you maybe accidentally changed something or something moved and they're all out of spec.

I use the Wilson Case Gauge and it works really well. Lyman has one for about $21 you can try. I was going to get that one and changed my mind after I heard a story or two about the Lyman one not being stainless steel and got rusty.. but I live in the desert and don't have a swamp cooler so I shouldn't have to worry about that. Didn't think about it at the time.

Right now for a cheap way to trim, I use the Lyman E-ZEE Trimmer attached to my power drill.

You'll also want a good pair of calipers. I use the Hornady Digital Caliper and it works well enough.

If I think of anything else, I'll update.

RCBS Kit $300

Hornday Calipers $25

You need a case trimmer. I went for the WFT.

Then you need dies (sizer/seater). You can spend as little as $50 or so for this, I went with the most recommended which was Redding and cost $160.

All of this made sense for me because I knew I was going to keep it forever. But if you have the funds to do it right, do it right and dont skimp. Because even if you should decide in a year you dont want to do it anymore, you are more likely to be able to sell good components than cheap ones, and at less of a depreciation. I bought all this stuff a year ago, and I bet I could get an 80-90% return if I were to sell it now.

Just keep a few things in mind: Reloading, especially as a beginner, takes time. Expect 100 rounds of .308 from start to finish to take you 4ish hours. And add to the cost, you can see already that $500-600 is about where you will land with just components (accounting for the cost for a tumbler). Now components, lets do the math for 1,000 rounds. You have to buy Brass (expensive, 100 costs $50-80, but they are obviously reuseable), bullets (lots of 500 for $170, so $340 for 1k), powder (can be hard to find, and if you have to ship can be expensive, think $40/lb, 7lbs should get you a tad more than 1k rounds, so $280 for 7lbs+hazmat/shipping+$50ish), and primers (sold in lots of 1k for about $32, $27 hazmat shipping fee unless you pick up locally/ship with powder).

On the conservative side, assume you spend $500 on components to be ready to reload. +$70 (brass avg), +$340, +$330, +$32 = $772 for 1,000 rounds, just in components.

Now you are at about $1200-1300 for 1,000 rounds. But your next 1,000 are only components, so $772 (ish) per 1k from then on out.

But if you aren't even sure you want to do this for a long time, you may not make up the cost difference of the equipment. Which is where one of the fallacies of reloading lies, don't get into it to save money. Get into it to have complete and total control over the product that you shoot. If that's not worth it to you, just buy factory ammo.

Lastly, going back tot he $1200-1300, lets average it again to $1250, how much ammo can you get for that, right now? Assume you find Federal Premium Gold Medal Match 175gr (you wont) boxes of 20 are $35. Thats 35 boxes, or 700 rounds. Or you could go Hornady 168gr for $26.50. Thats 47 boxes for $1250, or 940 rounds.

Disclaimer, its early, still drinking coffee, please correct math if I screwed up somewhere (it's been known to happen). My close friend wants to build his first precision rifle, and he fell into the newbie mistake of thinking he could skimp on things, like optics. I wont say I demanded he 'spend twice what he did on the rifle, on the glass' or anything like that. But I told him I already spent more than his rifle will cost on reloading gear, which he can use, so he wont have to. So he has to spend at least $850 (Vortex PST 6-24x FFP) on his scope to use my gear. I think getting into this style of shooting you need $1k for the gun, $1k for the optics, $1k for reloading. There will be some the gun/optics category to fill in for accessories, or add to the reloading budget, but if you cant spend $3k for a .308 setup, shooting .308 is going to be too costly for you anyways.

Forster makes great tools, but I would reconsider the priming tool. I don't like having to fill up primer tubes -- I prefer to just flip the tray of primers into something like the Lee auto prime, shake them to line them up, and then prime.

Also, having done this for a while, I finally broke down and bought a Lyman case prep Xpress https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU. Yeah it's more money, but it runs quiet, saves your fingers, and does a variety of other tasks, like cleaning and uniforming primer pockets, removing case primer crimps (if your cases have any), lubing case necks. If you do enuf reloading, it's well worth it.

I don't know what kind of volume you plan on doing, but you might consider the Lyman E-Zee Trim as well. It will allow you to trim by hand or use a power drill. I recently bought one and can trim, de-burr, and chamfer a .223 case in a bit less than 15 seconds.

>a ton of husks, wads, and no.4 shot I picked up for peanuts at a garage sale. I also have an old original lee load all 12ga press.

>My question is what primers/powder is recommended for loading this?


Doesn't quite work that way. You need to work with an established recipe.

What kind of hulls are they? What kind of wads? That makes a big difference in the powder/primer suggestion.

Your best bet to to by the Lyman book http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Shotshell-Handbook-5Th-Edition/dp/B00162MK2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376656361&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+shotshell

What I ended up doing is resizing a bunch of 223 before I chopped them, I used the 300 resizer and took out the primer punch, worked pretty good. This trimmer may be a good idea, I've been looking at getting it for myself, you can read the reviews and decide if its for you. And heres a jig if you dont want to make one.

For powder/bullets, I use AA1680 and Palmetto Projectiles 208gn for Subsonics. Dont use them for Supers. Also, if you're running a progressive and loading lead coated projectiles, you'll need an expander die of some sort to prevent the brass from cutting up the lead projectiles.

Also, sub/xpost to /r/300BLK

I've been using this one with great success:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H27XAAG

A really nice scale is good. This one is favored.

https://www.amazon.com/My-Weigh-GemPro-250-50gX0-001g/dp/B004C3I3AA

That kit has a tumbler. Possibly a better scale. I have both and the GemPro is worlds better.

You could use a 3-die set so you can incorporate a powder-check die. I consider it essential on a progressive, and a good safety on a turret.

while i don't have a 300blk (yet) i have been doing my research and have decided to go with 556 brass when it comes to reloading for it. if this is the route your gonna go, you're probably gonna want a swaging die, 300blk jig and sizing die set. you might also pick up a case gauge and OAL length dummy brass. all this so you can resize 556 for 300blk. i'm looking here for 556 brass, but i'm open to suggestions for a better deal elsewhere. 1000 brass for $80. $0.08/ea

my reasoning is this. Rumor has it that 556 has thicker brass, which leads to a slightly smaller internal capacity. if you're loading subsonic rounds, you'll most likely be using Trail Boss as your powder. because the loads for subsonic are quite small, you want the largest grain powder you can find as it will fill the case and lead to a more even burn. so a smaller case capacity would further improve this.

​

you could also just buy bulk 300blk brass. 1000 brass for $130. $0.13/ea

Best tip:

Get a chop saw from harbor freight

And a jig from Amazon if you're doing more than 20 rounds. It will change your life for the better.

I just started to and you need to chamfer and deburring tool.

This one is the best IMO http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422086949&sr=8-2&keywords=lyman+case+prep&pebp=1422086951922&peasin=B004MCMCYE

If you are reloading 556 brass with a crimp around the primer you may also want this tool that also fits into the above layman tool. http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422087101&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+crimp+remover&pebp=1422087104120&peasin=B0063IDE6A

You can get the crimp off with a razor or the first tool but its easy to put this in the drill chuck and crank them out by the numbers.

The primer pockets are definitely cleaner. I will load almost all of them without using a primer pocket cleaner because they are plenty clean. It's not as loud as I was expecting but it's definitely not quiet. I would still run it in an apartment I just wouldn't put in right up to a wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=pd_sim_misc_2

That's what I bought.

I would add:

Hornady's bullet comparator https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA - This allows you to measure seating depth off the ogive of the bullet, which is much more consistent than going off the tip of the bullet.

Hornady's overall length gauge https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Overall-Length-Gauge-Curved/dp/B000PD6SD0/ref=pd_sim_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PD6SD0&pd_rd_r=6K3666EQ4851J0R8AKHC&pd_rd_w=JBOSV&pd_rd_wg=kwjaE&psc=1&refRID=6K3666EQ4851J0R8AKHC & https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Winchester-Modified/dp/B000PD6RJA/ref=pd_lpo_200_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2S9PEM17YKNN0J5WDMYK - This allows you to measure your gun's chamber, which is important for developing seating depth.

I like RCBS dies.

Beyond that, your list is complete. The only remaining suggestion I have is considering stepping up to a cast iron press. Strength = precision.

I have an RCBS rock chucker I was gifted. I have not tried the lee breech lock, but I did have a Lee Turret. I prefer the RCBS for more precision rounds. This kit will allow you to use Hornady LnL bushings on your RCBS press. The only down side is that you will have to get Bushings for each of your dies, which get to be a PITA if you do multiple calibers. But the advantage of quickly switching stages without having to recalibrate everything is SO WORTH IT. The bushings are available in 1, 2, 3 and 10 packs.

I also picked up a 3D printed Primer catch tube off of ebay for cheap, that was the other upgrade I decided to get. Its easier than cleaning out the stock primer catching tray which fills up fast and doesn't catch everything.

Option 1 seems to have the best reviews. Be sure to get you the 300 jig too: https://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-300-Blackout-Case-Trimming/dp/B00H27XAAG/ref=pd_bxgy_469_3/135-5428015-4716215?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00H27XAAG&pd_rd_r=aa380259-9506-4da9-9224-2d189605f108&pd_rd_w=Lmo2Q&pd_rd_wg=EnWqH&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=CNR25PKW06T92AWPTCC3&psc=1&refRID=CNR25PKW06T92AWPTCC3

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DWBKQY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32SYCNEC4KB0Z&coliid=I1IZKQ4PZEV4DX
May help, also if you're casting have you considered getting into moly coated bullets? just another step to keep things clean and functioning.

This tray works great for 38spl. https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Universal-Ammo-Loading-Tray/dp/B0013RD6OQ

If you load plated and lead, I'd suggest geting the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook.

I use the 49th, the Cast Handbook and the Hornady manual to cross reference as well as online data. I hear good things about the Speer manual though I have never consulted it.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Products-E-ZEE-Trimmer-Rifle/dp/B00AU6C7MI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492090770&sr=8-3&keywords=lyman+case+trimmer

This thing is EASY and affordable. I use it with my cordless drill and/or my smaller drill press!

Use a Lee universal expanding die, it's super handy.

Remove the primer crimp and you'll be good to prime with none damaged.




Cheaper



Funsies


Or you can swage the primer pocket which pushes the brass back into itself, compared to removing brass.

Those are crimps, be sure to remove them before trying to reload.

You can use a swage tool to remove them, or use a countersink bit or a crimp remover like what RCBS has.

Looks like most of your questions are answered. Im also a fan of lee dies, mainly because they arent an arm and a leg to purchase. $28 on amazon.

If you need all the equipment to reload, I'd check out the rock chucker kit. If you spend $300, you quality for a rebate of $75

Most vibratory tumblers aren't so loud you'll have problems with them in an apartment. You probably won't want it sitting in the room with you while it's running, but it's not so bad that it'll likely cause complaints from your neighbors.

Here's a pretty good kit that includes a tumbler and media separator for $66 or just the tumbler for $45

This is definitely worth the money:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RD6OQ/ref=wl_mb_recs_1_title

I just thought of something else I thought I'd pass along. I went ahead and added a universal expanding die to my case prep to flare the case mouth just a hair. I'm not sure how much that has made a difference or if I'm just better at initial bullet seating but I have found that my bullet alignment seemed much better afterwards.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8N538/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have had a lot of luck with this. Once you get it set up properly, I can crank out just as many as the Lyman or Dillon setup for only 35 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9481-Primer-Pocket-Combo-2/dp/B0063IDAX2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1YQJ4P0OW92MK&dchild=1&keywords=rcbs+swager+die&psc=1&qid=1571431910&sprefix=rcbs+sw%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-5

Here is a good kit to get started, disclaimer you will almost always want to upgrade. You will also need dies, powder and primers

LEE PRECISION Classic Turret Press Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M5TSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.8GTCbVPSE29H

thanks, just found the Lyman Shotshell Handbook 5th Edition for under $20.00

I recommend the RCBS primer crimp removal tool. I've found that it is a lot more consistent than the reamer type tools like the one linked above. The RCBS tool has a hard stop which prevents you from going too deep and enlarging the primer pocket, leading to loose primers. I recommend using it in a power drill if you don't have a case prep center.

RCBS Trim Mate Military Crimp Remover-SM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063IDE6A

I'd say buy him a kit and maybe some dies to start. Pistol calibers are relatively easy to reload and don't require trimming of the cases.

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511483036&sr=8-2&keywords=rock+chucker+press

Like this ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F5H636/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000KK93DA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0N07JJAZ419CX59NNB2F

Spend a little extra and get tools you won't want to replace. The RCBS kit has a better scale, dropper, press and priming tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0078MWM2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452709834&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Rcbs+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41LeCz2g02L&ref=plSrch

since you dont know the type of any of the componets you already have start from here. Start sticking to the loads listed and eventually you will learn what you can and cant change safely. A Lymans shotshell manual is great for learning process and tech information. It also has more load data than you can shake a stick at.

Basically a tray that holds your brass. Here is a link to one. They’re supposed to help you stay organized.

MTM Universal Ammo Loading Tray Red (includes one tray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RD6OQ

Please don't remove the primer crimp, just swager! http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Primer-Pocket-Swager-Combo-2/dp/B0063IDAX2

I suspect that you can buy inexpensive replacement heads for a lot of those case prep centers and just chuck them in the drill. Also, plenty of hand case prep tools look easy enough to chuck.

I have a vague image in my head of a shoestring budget DIY contraption for case trimming using a drill press, but I get the feeling that the stops on a cheap drill press aren't accurate enough even if I could devise such a device.

For primer crimps, you can get a swage die and use a decent single stage press. For chamfering, I suspect that there are many non-reloading tools that would work, like a countersink bit or even a very large twist drill with an appropriately angled point.

Get somthing like this. Shotshell is a diferent animal than metalic cartridges.

Replying with something useful now. If you don't want it to happen again, use Imperial Sizing Wax, or if you want to use a spray lube, something Lanolin based such as Dillon or Frankfort arsenal.


You can also make it yourself for much cheaper; use these components and mix anywhere from 8:1 to 12:1, it really doesn't matter.

99% Alcohol:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWYNIDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lanolin:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00028MLKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spray Bottle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KAU7DQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1


The only advantage to One-Stuck is that you don't have to tumble it off like you do the lanolin-based lubes. I still use one-shot for pistol brass (even using carbide dies; I like butter smooth sizing), but don't use it on rifle brass anymore. If you don't "shake well" and apply it liberally, you'll pay for it with stuck rifle brass.

In all honesty I don't think all of that equipment is necessary. I'd spend more money on a scale like the Gempro 250 to weight sort cases/projectiles.

I think that, for bolt action precision, the Lee Dies are more fitting because of the collet neck sizer die.

Also get a flash hole deburrer.

DIY Lanolin and Alcohol works just as well and is far cheaper. Grab some bottles with it and you're set.

you're on the right track. don't buy a kit. they save you like $20, but you end up with $50 of their worst selling crap.

speaking of crap, lose that scale. this is a much better one. and if you ever get a decent powder measure, or trickle, it'll help keep you from going insane.

you might also want a trickler.

if you're not cleaning the brass by hand, you'll need a tumbler and media separator.

nothing wrong with that press, so long as you're not reforming cases. if you do upgrade the press, go to a turret or LNL-AP. not the Lee turret though. not for big rifle cases. it can do it, but you'll be happier with something bigger.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AU6C7MI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use for trimming. Works fine with a drill. Fast and cheap

It's currently $69.99 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Breech-lock-Challenger-Press/dp/B008F5H636/

It's cheaper from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60

It is electronic (so it's quicker), accurate to .001 grain and rock solid (30 warranty doesn't hurt). See here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C3I3AA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xlbBub13AFGAM

Allow you to use this.

Alternatively you have to get something like this from RCBS or pay $40 more for a Dillon equivalent.

The alternative is to cut it away as described here but this is easy to over and under-do and isn't as reliable as swaging.

This is not the right way to do this.

Lyman makes a primer pocket reamer.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Primer-Pocket-Reamer/dp/B001OPLS2Y

Or if you want motorized, you can get the Case Prep Xpress, which includes the reamer.

https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU

dunno tbh i never bothered cuz i didn't want breathe in/deal with whatever else was in it and i found pure 99% isopropyl and food-grade lanolin oil.

The Lee Classic Turret Press kit would be my recommendation over the rockchucker. That is just personal preference though and it doesn't look like Midway carries it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008M5TSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511499948&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press&dpPl=1&dpID=51fxJTv0BZL&ref=plSrch

Amazon does though.

99% alcohol:

https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Brand-Isopropyl-Antiseptic-Technical/dp/B07NFSFBXQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_ 3?keywords=99%25+isopropyl+alcohol+16+oz&qid=1574336646&sprefix=99%25+Isopropyl+Alcohol%C2%A0&sr=8-3

Liquid lanolon:
https://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Solutions-Liquid-Lanolin/dp/B00028MLKC

You need one of these.....https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-HR050095-Cam-Lock-Bullet-Puller/dp/B000PCZZO4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501089924&sr=8-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+puller

When you say you're using the Hornady setup do you mean you're using the Hornady bullet comparator?

This. Toss them in with the media and let them go overnight

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1331075482&sr=8-2

I'd try here: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Shotshell-Handbook-5Th-Edition/dp/B00162MK2M

I prefer the lnl bushings ... but, for a single stage, I'd just go with the Lee ... buy the rest of the stuff ala carte

Search Ebay. You can find deals like this one or this one or you can get a brand new Lee for $70 or a whole kit minus the dies for $116

Can this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B008M5TSCG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1377712253&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press+kit

Every time. its one of these. I just place a larger cup on it to load the powder into, then pour it into the case. So each time the scale should return to zero once I replace the cup.

What's the difference between that one and the RCBS? Or, what would I be paying more for that this one doesn't have? https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511483036&sr=8-2&keywords=rock+chucker+press

You can also go with this
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A The advantage of the RCBS version is that you just bottom it out. With the Lee one you can cut too deep.

I'm a fan of the RCBS primer pocket swager combo. It swages the pocket correctly and can even fix other problems not necessarily found with military crimped pockets.

http://amzn.com/B0063IDAX2

the 1st problem I see is that even with a 45degree chamfer tool, it may not be enough, or you'll be taking too much material away.

Comic answer: Amazon Prime that RCBS swager and get your free trail mix snack

I use a Gemini 20 milligram scale. Dirt cheap so I have a spare in a box somewhere. Plenty accurate. Measures to .02 grain. Minimal shielding so finicky like that $1000 scale.

Lyman's Cast bullet handbook has this:

Lyman #356242 (RN)-- 120 gr. (#2 Alloy) 1.065" OAL, BC: .159, SD:.135

Powder | start | fps | pressure | max | fps | pressure
---|---|----|----|----|----|----
Unique | 4.0 | 1013 | 26,500 | 5.0 | 1194 | 32,800

Nothing on clays for that one.

RCBS #9mm-124-CN (Conical)-- 142 gr. (10 to 1 Alloy) 1.050" OAL, BC:.105, SD:.140

Powder | start | fps | pressure C.U.P. | max | fps | pressure C.U.P.
---|---|----|----|----|----|----
Unique | 4.4 | 1063 | 25,700 | 4.9 | 1159 | 30,700

Again, nothing for clays.

I like that handbook, it complements Lyman #49 quite well and usually has better coverage of cast boolits.

They're only 4 bucks each with the 10 pack. Hornady Lock-N-Load DIE Bushing 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5bHAb86XBB0R

What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.

You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.

Here is what you will need:

1. A reloading manual. This is a book of known good "recipes" for making cartridges for different kinds of powder and bullets. $19.99.
   
2. A way to deprime spent brass (remove used primers).
   
3. A set of dies. These resize the brass to correct dimensions, seat the bullet, and crimp the cartridge.
   
4. Bullets.
   
5. Brass.
   
6. Primers.
   
7. Powder.
   
8. A scale for measuring powder $29.57.
   
9. A bullet puller. This allows you to rework screwed-up cartridges $12.99.
   
10. A press of some kind to run your cartridges through your dies.
    
    Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":
    
    http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading
    
    You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.
    
    If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.
    
    Reloading basically follows these steps:
    
    
11. Deprime the brass.
    
12. Resize external dimensions of brass.
    
13. Bell case mouth to accept new bullet.
    
14. Press in new primer.
    
15. Charge cartridge with powder.
    
16. Seat bullet.
    
17. Crimp cartridge mouth.
    
    There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.
    
    A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.
    
    A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.
    
    A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.
    
    I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.
    
    You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.
    
    If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.
    
    Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.
    
    Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.
    
    Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.
    
    The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.