(Part 2) Top products from r/rollerblading
We found 23 product mentions on r/rollerblading. We ranked the 149 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Elite Hockey Prolace Waxed Hockey Laces (Silver Grey, 96")
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 1
Elite Hockey Prolace Waxed Hockey LacesOne Pair (One Box)Length: 96"Color: Silver Grey with Black Specks.
22. Bondo Glass, Short Strand Reinforced Fiberglass Filler, Stage 2, 2.56 lb./1.1 kg
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Ideal for repairing rust-out and rust hole repairs.Covers small (up to ½”) holes without the need for backing strips, fiberglass resin or clothBondo Glass Reinforced Filler formula is 2X as strong as traditional lightweight filler.Ideal to repair metal, wood, concrete, masonry and fiberglass.Sand...
23. Speed on Skates: A Complete Technique, Training and Racing Guide for In-Line and Ice Skaters
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
24. Inline!: A Manual for Beginning to Intermediate Inline Skating
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
26. Triple Eight KP 22 Heavy-Duty Skateboarding Knee Pads (Pair), Large
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 1
Sleeveless skateboarding knee pads with heavy duty EVA memory foam for comfort and maximum paddingHigh–density, impact-resistant knee cap has a flat cap design and is securely attached with reinforced rivets for longevity and stabilityEasy on-and-off sleeveless design features neoprene butterfly c...
27. EKLIND 55166 Cushion Grip Hex T-Key allen wrench - 6pc set Metric MM sizes 2-6 (6In shaft)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
This product is easy to use.This product is highly durableVinyl grip provides comfort and extra strengthOffers a more economical optionT-Keys feature a one piece loop handleIncluded in a Vinyl pouch - for easy storageMade in the USA
28. Triple 8 Saver Series Wristsavers (Black, Small)
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Pair of wrist guards with replaceable high-density, impact-resistant front and back splintsShock absorbing EVA foam secured between the splints and wrist for cushioning, combined with tough, 4-way stretch nylon mesh provides a snug but comfortable fitButterfly strap design with 3 hook-and-loop strap...
29. 3M Scotchlite Silver Reflective Tape, 2 in x 36 in, 1 Roll
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Tape may be used wherever low light or night-time light reflectivity is needed to increase visibilityVersatile tape works on a variety of SURFACES on automobiles, trailers, driveways, mailboxes, RVs, watercraft and bicyclesWhen you shine light this tape, the light reflects back toward the source of ...
30. Stanley MR100CG Contractor Grade Riveter
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Rugged, contractor-grade die-cast metal construction for long lifeDesigned for stainless steel rivets in marine applicationsEquipped with removable ejector springUses 1/8", 3/32", 5/32" & 3/16" diameter Steel & Aluminum Rivets. Uses 1/8" and 5/32" diameter Stainless RivetsLimited Lifetime Warranty
31. McDavid Hexpad Knee Or Elbow (Black, X-Large)
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Hex Technology is superior, closed cell foam padding that gives every athlete, in any contact or collision sport, the remarkable advantages of protection, durability and confidence.Can be used for the knee, elbow or shinMoisture Management Technology is all about cool and dryHighly versatile pad ava...
32. Mighty Ducks Jersey sz 54 Gordon Bombay #66 2XL by Unknown
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Gordon Bombay #66 2XL Mighty Ducks Hockey Jersey
33. Third Eye Pro Helmet Bicycle Mirror
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Mirror Style: Helmet
34. 5.11 Men's Taclite Pro Pant, Black, 32Wx32L
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
QUALITY CONSTRUCTION - Designed using high-quality ripstop 100% cotton, this functional and breathable pant is sturdy and versatile enough for daily use or for maximum performance.TEFLON-TREATED FABRIC - Coated with premium Teflon, these pants have a protective finish that resists stain, soil, and m...
35. Profoot Multi-Use Gel Padding
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Profoot Multi-Use Gel Padding
36. CW-X Women's 3/4 Length Stabilyx Tights
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Our Patented Support Web provides excellent targeted joint support to the hip, pelvis and kneesThe Support Web provides extra muscle support to lower abdominal muscles, back and hamstrings for extra stability and powerCoolmax fabric helps keep the body dry by pulling moisture away from the skinWomen...
37. Polarized Sunglasses for Men Women - UV Protection TR90 Unbreakable Sports Sunglasses for Fishing Driving Cycling
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
STYLISH DESIGN & REMARKABLE EYE PROTECTION - 100% Protection against harmful UVA/UVB & UVC rays with Revo coating technology. FRETREE polarized sunglasses guarantees 100%UV400 protection, blocking 99.9% of harmful UVA and UVB rays. Restore true color, eliminate reflected light and scattered light ...
38. Hillbilly Impact Shorts, Medium
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Great hip and tailbone protection for all action sports including skateboarding, longboarding, skiing, snowboarding, and mountain biking.Features lightweight EVA foam padding, plastic tail bone protector, and breathable mesh fabric.Drawstring for extra adjustability and secure fit.If you are on the ...
39. CedarFresh Natural Shoe Deodorizer ReFresh Cedar Bag Inserts for Shoes and Shoe Racks, Set of 6
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Cotton pouch filled with 100 % Red Cedar shavings to freshen your belongings and protect from pestsEliminates odors from your shoes and boots by absorbing moisture and mildewHelps keep the shape of sports shoes and casual wear while reducing the shoe smellFreshen your tennis shoes, gym bag, or drawe...
Loootttts of experience with this. Honestly, nowadays, I'm as likely to get an arm workout at a session from rubbricking and/or filming as a leg workout from miszouing, haha.
I'm not sure what grit mine are, as Home Depot and Lowe's only sell one model each. In my experience the Home Depot ones are much better (bright blue handle), I got a bunch from Lowe's (darker blue rubberized handle) on closeout a year ago and they wear really fast. Not sure if the new brand Lowe's replaced those with is good or not, I'll know in a year or two when my current stash wears out.
The A-Mall video does a good job of covering basics, I'll make some additional points.
Ideally you want a virgin ledge- no wax, moss, paint, etc. Just bare-ass concrete. Once you wax the ledge, the effectiveness of your rubbrick goes down about 90%, as the wax smooths out/clogs your rubbrick. You can melt the wax later with a torch or lighter, and mop it up with some paper towels or try scrubbing it off with a wirebrush, but just try to keep your brick "dry" in the first place.
What I usually do is keep two or three bricks in my car's spot kit- one or two new-ish bricks, for the bulk of the work on clean/dry areas; and an older worn or cracked one, that is now the "junk" brick- this is used for blending into waxed areas, bricking something that's painted, trying to smooth out a section with old/shitty wax, etc. Basically for the messy stuff that you want to keep your newer rubbrick(s) away from until they're worn/cracked and they become the next junk brick. For this stuff I also find that using the corner/edge of the brick can be useful, and kinda scrapes the wax/paint off instead of it all adhering to the brick.
I usually 'brick and wax the top of the ledge a little wider than most people- i like to do about the length of the long side of the rubbrick from the corner. This is so if you touch a front or back wheel on a groove trick you don't stick as hard.
Use some muscle. This is going to be hard work. You only get one chance at this before waxing, so don't half-ass this. Do the top really well but also do a good job on the corner (or bevel if your locale likes beveled edges as much as Detroit), and the side. You put a lot of pressure into the side of the ledge with your frame when you lock or jump out of a soul trick, do don't skimp.
Ideally, wear some lung protection. A proper respirator, or a simple paper mask. If nothing else, pull your t-shirt up over your nose. You want to avoid breathing this dust in, it is not good for your lungs.
A soft-ish broom or masonry brush is best for dusting the ledge off, but you can improvise with a rag/towel/t-shirt, or a tree branch, or a newspaper. You'll figure it out. Keep your lungs protected during this part too!
Sweep the dust off the ground too! It's slippery and can get in your bearings and it just looks bad anyways. You should be a ninja with your street skating- leave as little evidence as possible.
Once it's dusted is when I personally will fill chunks/seams with Bondo Glass, which is Bondo with a fiberglass additive, which makes it very hard and strong when dry, unlike plain Bondo. This stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/272-Bondo-Glass-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM
Depending on how much hardener you add, it can be dry and skateable within 20 minutes. Too much hardener and it's too stiff to work with though! Go for a dark dark brown consistency once mixed. Err on the side of less hardener if unsure. If you have helpers, rubbrick around the chunks and seams first, have one person work on the Bondoing while the others rubbrick the rest of the ledge.
I cut up old skate boxes into ~6"x6" squares for application- the shiny ones work best. One square for mixing, one for applying and shaping. Grab some paint mixer sticks for free from the paint department for mixing and scooping your Bondo onto your square. You can open the top of the can with a quarter if necessary.
Don't build up the Bondo past the level of the ledge. Ideally you want to fill the chunk/seam and have it be level. Don't work it too much, try to get it in the chunk and smooth it with one or two passes. With some practice you'll learn the right pressure to scrape it with to get it level with the ledge surface.
Some disposable gloves are really handy for the Bondoing- it sticks to skin quite effectively once dry.
Now you can wax. Some people swear by quick-drying spray lacquer before waxing but I've never found it to do much for me. It's cheap though so try it out if you want.
I like to do a first layer of harder wax (skate-branded wax, candles) and then a top layer of softer wax if necessary (paraffin/Gulf wax).
Definitely pad up. At least some knee pads. I thought I was too cool for that when I started back up a couple months ago and now I have a solid lump on my left knee that doesn’t really show signs of going away. Nothing hurts I’m pretty sure it’s just from falling on it... A LOT. I got some triple eight kp22 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000ASZAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hPbjDbP3MBRNQ ) and they fit pretty slim for a hard shell. Fits ubder shorts well. I think the size I got is to small for me over pants (I’m. 5’10 170 lbs, average build and I got a size L), but under shorts is perfect! I also wear some slip on elbow pads ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XOQR7NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PKbjDbDEMR24F ) they’ve saved me for sure on a couple slams and You basically forget they are there. Happy rolling man! Welcome back!
i definitely second the 'Art of Falling' recommendation. it's written by a competitive slalom skater. the title in itself points to the very basis of converting energy to movement while skating.
moving onto another area of skating -> speed skating... i recommend this book if you were to entertain the style:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0880117214/
"Speed on Skates" covers that whole area of competitive speed and distance skating. the general technique is the same in that you use "controlled falling" to propel you forward. also covers energy management and ways to build strength.
i hope you get back into it in some way. The Martial Arts subreddits here are quite helpful.
A book also recently came out which you might find interesting.
Alright, makes me not so nervous about the overall fit anymore, your help is much appreciated.
I'm seeing them at ~$8 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Hockey-Prolace-Waxed-Skate/dp/B004R6VACA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ICWD1LQ71C78&keywords=elite%2Bhockey%2Bwaxed%2Blaces&qid=1556864489&s=gateway&sprefix=Elite%2BHockey%2Bwax%2Caps%2C251&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1), where are you seeing them at that price? May just be looking at the wrong ones on my end or since I don't have a store nearby.
These (not exactly those but similar) work for me to leave in, while my skates are drying, if you have the luxury of using other skates while those are drying, do that.
I think type of socks can also make a difference. What has worked for me is socks that contain the fabric 'Coolmax'.... Yes, I know it sounds fancy but I went into the hardware store and found really cheap socks that had 'Coolmax' in it which wicks away moisture and I think is found in some performance socks, maybe a bike/runningshoe/ski shop would also have good alternatives for socks.
For long skates I double up on socks (coolmax socks on first and regular socks over those) for two reasons, to prevent chafing at the ankles and to get less sweaty feet.
Try the book:
Inline!: A Manual for Beginning to Intermediate Inline Skating
by William Nealy
http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/865387.Inline_
https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Manual-Beginning-Intermediate-Skating/dp/0897322746
You can get a second hand one really cheap and will laugh a lot
You're looking at some attachment like these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Bicycle-Helmet-Mirror-EVT/dp/B003LVHZ4O/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_tr_t_1
https://www.amazon.com/Third-Eye-Helmet-Bicycle-Mirror/dp/B0015ZZBM6
That's all I can think of, props for figuring it all out and getting the blades on!
The holes from the cuff bolts are happening on mine as well, it's not too bad yet, but on my previous boots these solved the problem:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B001DZRKL8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Self-adhesive gel patches, just stick over the bolts, they were surprisingly durable (I'd thought I'd have to redo it every week, but no)
Crease - don't know, liner too big? (Mines were super-deadly-tight when I bought them and then stretched considerably...
Do you mean just something like this or am I way off?
Might be worth investing in a good set of t-handle allens wrenches for the future, to avoid stripping axels.
This is the set that I use.
You would need a rivet tool, something kinda like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-MR100CG-Contractor-Grade-Riveter/dp/B000BR7JUG/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2YFD78B0SP2ZA&keywords=rivet+gun&qid=1550706310&s=gateway&sprefix=rivet%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-9
I wear merino wool primarily if I'm doing any sort of athletic activity. This article explains why cotton is a shitty fabric that you should stay away from for most sports. For me though I just hate the feeling of wet cotton on my skin, when I sweat into it it chafes and just feels abrasive.
I'm not sure it's that important for rollerblading since you aren't likely to be skating in any extreme elements. If you want to get fancy you can buy some nice icebreaker or smartwool athletic wear (what I use), or if you want to be extra fancy you can get compression garments like this but it's probably overkill, unless you need the extra knee support.
I want this now
http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Ducks-Jersey-Gordon-Bombay/dp/B002ZQIKI6
link https://www.amazon.com/5-11-Tactical-Taclite-34-Waist-32-Length/dp/B001A76ERK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519294724&sr=8-4&keywords=5.11%2Btactical%2Bpants&th=1
I think a set of sport glasses would do the trick.
Usually i see some bikers wear these types of glasses. You can get many different kinds of lenses if you dont like polarized lenses.
Ex.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCFM5WQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1OWVT37KD30HT&psc=1
No, something designed to both absorb impact and prevent flexing. Like these at a minimum: https://www.amazon.com/Triple-Saver-Wristsavers-Black-Small/dp/B0000DZIK1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481674687&sr=8-3&keywords=wrist+guards
There's also "glove" type ones, and even some ridiculously thick ones for the downhill skater guys who intentionally drag their hands on pavement for control in highs-speed turns.
I've always used the "splint" style ones like the ones I linked above. They've saved my wrists in several falls. Important: no wrist-guard will completely prevent injury if you fall directly onto your hands badly enough. That's why the "learn to tuck and roll" advice above is so important. Ultimately that's what will prevent fractures.
Get protective gear.
I started learning aggressive skating recently as well. The first thing I tried was grinding and it didn't go well. I failed the landing on the coping of the box. Somehow I fell in such a way that my shin, right below the knee, slammed into the concrete and steel coping of the box. And somehow that took a small chunk out of my shin. I didn't break anything, and it's healing up well enough, but it sucked. It bled a lot, bloodying my jeans and socks. I got light headed. And I had to bail on the night of skating. And don't want to try again until it's completely healed up.
I've got safety gear now. I went with wrist/hand guards and this type of padding under my clothes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UVUCF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . It's just enough to take the edge off, but it's enough to prevent cracked bones and broken skin when hitting concrete. It still hurts like hell though. While it will probably only survive a few falls, it's thin, light, and comfortable enough that I always put them on now.