(Part 2) Top products from r/saab

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We found 21 product mentions on r/saab. We ranked the 92 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/saab:

u/iMakemybeer · 3 pointsr/saab

Honestly the best thing you can do is getting the car to run at OEM spec, then think about upgrades. A stock 900T should boost about 10psi or right about the yellow/red line on the stock boost gauge. A real boost gauge is very helpful in troubleshooting this, and while you're at read up on how to check and adjust the base boost setting of the wastegate as sometimes these get tired as well.

If its not doing that it can be variety of things, even if the rest of the car has been well maintained the engine sensors may be 25 years old at this point and wear out. A c900 is very picky in my experience about ignition components, so make sure you have the correct spark plugs and it can't hurt to replace the distributor cap and leads. Check for vacuum leaks in the engine bay, and get a spare air mass meter as these are finicky as well.

After it is up to proper spec you can adjust the APC to SPG spec (~12psi) for a nice little HP bump, or even a bit more. Google 'Saab apc mods' or go to 900aero.com to read up on how to do that.

If that is still not enough power look into doing a Trionic 5 conversion on it (engine management system out of a 9000) as IMO it is the best mod you can do to a c900 to get it to perform better.

Theres no harm in shifting after 4000rpm but the Mitsubishi TE05 turbo your car should have really runs out of steam around that rpm, and quickly heatsoaks the intercooler, so theres not a ton of power to be had as you get further up redline.

Other than that as has been mentioned realize these transmissions are fairly fragile so don't go around dropping the clutch at redlights, slamming into gears etc. Just accept that these are a fun, quick hatchback from the 80's and most minivans these days are faster ;)

Oh and buy a Bentley repair manual:

https://www.amazon.com/Saab-Valve-Official-Service-Manual/dp/083761693X

u/popsicle_of_meat · 1 pointr/saab

EDIT: I retract the following recommendation. I applied it to some trim pieces after a thorough cleaning and degreasing and it is now starting to flake and peel off. It looks like a very very thin hard rubber coating. It seems to be holding up okay on the textured trim pieces, but on smoother plastic it's flaking off after less than a month. Best bet would be to use a trim paint like Duplicolor or SEM trim paint and take time to prep things well.

Check this stuff out:

Bondo 800

I used it on my 9-3 trim and they look brand new again. Masking its very important, and do it on a COMPLETELY dry car. Even small amounts of water behind the trim make masking iffy and the dye bleed out. Found that one out the hard way.

u/visidage · 5 pointsr/saab

Focuslima on eBay has great quality emblems that you stick over top of your original badges. I got 2 for my 9-3 last week and they went on really easily and have a great look to them. Look for the ones that say 3d, 3d gel, 3d domed, etc. Roughly 1 week ship time to me in the middle of the US.

Edit: Didn't read the full thing, my bad. But if you do find an emblem in the junkyard then I've used 3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive when I had to stick the an emblem back onto my wheels.

u/FrankTCat · 3 pointsr/saab

You should coat the soft top every six months to keep it from soaking up water. I've found that this stuff works the best. Give it a good wash before you apply the top treatment, and let the top dry completely.

u/Saabfanboy · 1 pointr/saab

No problem.

As far as the sound dampening is concerned, well, yes and no. Here's a few options you have in regards to the doors:

  • The most effective, yet time consuming and difficult route is to line to door frame itself in the sound deadening. When you remove the door cards, you'll notice the metal door frame itself is covered in a grey foam sheet of sorts, so in order to seal up the door frame, you'll have to remove it, which is a fairly simple process, as I believe it is held in with 6 or so speed clips (don't take my word on this). Afterwords, simply roll up the window and proceed stuffing. However, if you go the dynamat route, you'll want to buy a proper roller to help lay the sheets against the door, both on the frame against which the door card resrs, and on the inside of the door frame (a bit of a finicky process, patience is key).

  • Alternatively, another, simpler option is to simply apply the dynamat/whatever to the inside of the door card itself, you can save yourself the headache and achieve a very similar result, you will be amazed at how much road noise this kills. Naturally, you can also do this alongside with sealing the door frame, but keep in mind how many sheets of dynamat you'll need to purchase. For the door cards alone, a single pack of dynamat door kit should suffice. However, you'll want to purchase a pair if you want to cover both the door cards and frames.

  • Lastly, you'll want to kill the noise that the door card makes as a result of rubbing against its door frame. This is a pretty simple step, you'll just need about 12 feet of weather stripping for the two front doors, run it along the edges of the card that make contact with the door frame. I'd honestly advice to door this all around on all 4 doors, will make a massive improvement towards killing the squeaks and rattles.

    Whatever route you choose to take, a roller and some dynamat tape will come in handy. You'll want to use the dynamat tape I linked you to to completely cover the speaker surround, to prevent leakage. Lastly, I strongly suggest checking out speaker baffles. They're cheap, and incredibly efficient at projecting sound forwards into the cabin, so you lose no sound into the door panel, and they also further help seal off sound leakage.

    Edit: To address the possible subwoofer, something worth checking out are self-contained, self-powered subs, particularly Infinity's Basslink. Self powered subs are small, efficient, and easy as hell to install and use, no boxes to buy/build, no amp to mess with, the list goes on. In the case of the Infinity Basslink, it will fit nicely under the drivers/passenger seat, and is a breeze to wire up, just run speaker wire to the trunk amp and splice that sucker in with the 6x9 leads, which get a full-pass frequency signal from the DIN (headunit). Having experience with one before, the sound is pleasingly tight, not at all boomy and 'loose' sounding such as the case with larger subs in ported boxes.
u/CrrntryGrntlrmrn · 1 pointr/saab

Right, well the reason I ask, is if you've seen the guide on... I wanna say twinsaabs, the front main seal job is quite tricky. It's interesting compared to the 9-5, which I believe is just removing the harmonic balancer, and a large snap ring.

On the 900, it's a whole piece- handful of bolts, harmonic balancer, plus the main bolt all come off to do the job. The Fel-Pro kit I got for the front main seal comes with the main seal, oil pump gasket, and two gaskets for passages on the whole cover piece.

Here's a link to the kit I needed for my car, but I'm not sure if this applies to yours (I have a 91 turbo, and going by the cps kit you have, yours is NA) and I don't have my Haynes handy. I specifically bought the fel-pro because I did not see the same gaskets visually included with other kits, and opinion of importance of changing the gaskets varied from person to person.

u/kuwahara2kz · 3 pointsr/saab

For my rarer waxings, i use McGuires Cleaner Wax with a radial buffer. However, for just week to week touch ups I use McGuires Quick Detailer ( http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Quik-Detailer-Mist-Spray/dp/B0009IQXAE) which basically keeps the paint clean and shiny in between washes and waxes, and it smells kinda nice.

Edit: with that said, you could really ONLY use quick detailer spray in lieu of waxing, it would more or less give you the same effect from a visual stand point (but in the long run may not not protect the clear coat as well).

u/elixer69 · 1 pointr/saab

I bought Raggtopp from Amazon. Then I bought the 'horse hair' brush along with it. Worked for me. Read the instructions though, the vinyl on the car needs to be completely wet before applying. There's two different solutions (bottles) one is a cleaner the other is a protected. I don't remember paying that much for it but that was 2 years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Raggtopp-Convertible-Top-Care-Kit/dp/B0002KKIVO

u/Islandoftiki · 1 pointr/saab

Oh, I see. I didn't realize that's the one you were talking about. My phone is mounted on a Mountek Ngrove CD Slot Mount. I kinda wish I had gone with the magnetic version. I may still switch to that. It mounts reasonably firmly into the CD slot and doesn't wobble around too much despite having fairly firmly adjusted Koni shocks. It's a really convenient position for the phone for ease of access and not having to look down much. I have a second windshield mount when I'm using my phone as a GPS.

u/andymakk · 1 pointr/saab

I used to use the Purolator Pureone Yellow filters off a 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser Turbo. Then they stopped making them with a grippy texture.

Just picked up 6 of these from eBay for $28 shipped. They fit 9-5's offer some extra oil capacity and filtration media and for $5.50 it's a solid deal.

https://www.amazon.com/XG3600-Ultra-Synthetic-Spin-Filter/dp/B000C2ZKJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495262732&sr=8-1&keywords=xg3600