(Part 4) Top products from r/saab

As someone who spent an inordinate amount of time completely gutting his 9-3 Aero's sound system, I'm more than happy to offer a handful of tips for this. I dug about forever trying to find walk-throughs and info, but I'll be damned if that wasn't a tedious process. Also, if you need any further help, feel free to PM me, I'm a wealth of knowledge on this, sadly.

Anyhow, a couple of things:

• Firstly, and surprisingly, I found that after removing and replacing all of the factory speakers in the car, the pair that by leagues made the most significant impact on the overall sound were the 3.5" component speakers in the dash. The stock units offered laughable bass response and sounded tinny as hell, they always bugged me the greatest. Take those suckers out (only 2 screws per each, aligned to where they're fairly easy to remove), use a flat-headed screw driver to pop the tweeters out, and drop in these suckers. Yes, they are coaxial (i.e., no separate tweeters), but don't bother with an additional pair of tweeters, these Infinity's are far better than any equivalent setup, least of which the stock setup.
  
  
• Next, the door speakers. These proved to be the most time-consuming, not least of which the way they are mounted. Once you have the door cards out (great guide here), you'll find the speakers mounted on the door card itself, as opposed to being set into the door frame. Now, whatever speakers you go for (definitely choose coaxial in this case, a component setup in the doors is a complete nightmare), keep in mind you only have 2 1/2" depth to set the speakers, so be careful when choosing your kit. I went with these guys from Boston Acoustics. Now, while they're no longer selling this model, just go for their new-model 6.5" coaxial, or the similar offering by Infinity Kappa. In my experience, Boston Acoustics and Infinity Kappa (owned by Harman/Kardon, no less) offer the best experience in after-market car audio, touting (in my opinion) the best and brightest midrange and high, with tight, accurate bass. Anyhow, unless you're planning to amp the setup, this is all you really have to do. However, if you are planning to add an aftermarket amp, tackling this is a whole new animal. You're looking at pulling the factory amp out from under the seat and bypassing it, something I can walk you through should you need to.
  
  
• Lastly, the rear deck. You have slots for the 6x9's for the Arc and Aero and slots for 4" speakers for the Linear and Vector models. I only replaced the 6x9's, and used a pair of Rockford Fosgate Component speakers, which I somewhat regret. The best option for these speakers (again, in my opinion) are Inifinity Kappa's 693.9i 6x9 coaxials, the bass response is unprecedented (deep, full, and crisp), and the highs are brilliant. These are by far and away the trickiest to mount, caused me quite a bit of frustration and still do. Each 6x9 is set by 4 screws at each corner, but each speaker is pushed so close its respective rear pillar that two of the screws are almost wholly inaccessible. Either find yourself a trick screwdriver that can be used in extremely tight places, or do what I did and simply use a set of pliers to remove the two hidden screws from the bottom of the rear deck.
  
  This all aside, you may want to consider some sound deadening, particularly in the rear deck, especially if you plan on amping the setup. People say go with dynamat, but shit's expensive, and better alternatives are out there. Personally, I took the decidedly ghetto route, and cut out a foam mattress pad to size and set it in the deck. Also, you'll want to kill the rattling coming from the third brake light over the rear seats, you'd be astonished at how much cabin noise that crappy plastic cover is responsible for. Use weatherstripping to cover that damned thing on the inside, and just place it back, problems solved. Anyhow, thanks for making me feel useful today, have upvotes!

Honestly the best thing you can do is getting the car to run at OEM spec, then think about upgrades. A stock 900T should boost about 10psi or right about the yellow/red line on the stock boost gauge. A real boost gauge is very helpful in troubleshooting this, and while you're at read up on how to check and adjust the base boost setting of the wastegate as sometimes these get tired as well.

If its not doing that it can be variety of things, even if the rest of the car has been well maintained the engine sensors may be 25 years old at this point and wear out. A c900 is very picky in my experience about ignition components, so make sure you have the correct spark plugs and it can't hurt to replace the distributor cap and leads. Check for vacuum leaks in the engine bay, and get a spare air mass meter as these are finicky as well.

After it is up to proper spec you can adjust the APC to SPG spec (~12psi) for a nice little HP bump, or even a bit more. Google 'Saab apc mods' or go to 900aero.com to read up on how to do that.

If that is still not enough power look into doing a Trionic 5 conversion on it (engine management system out of a 9000) as IMO it is the best mod you can do to a c900 to get it to perform better.

Theres no harm in shifting after 4000rpm but the Mitsubishi TE05 turbo your car should have really runs out of steam around that rpm, and quickly heatsoaks the intercooler, so theres not a ton of power to be had as you get further up redline.

Other than that as has been mentioned realize these transmissions are fairly fragile so don't go around dropping the clutch at redlights, slamming into gears etc. Just accept that these are a fun, quick hatchback from the 80's and most minivans these days are faster ;)

Oh and buy a Bentley repair manual:

https://www.amazon.com/Saab-Valve-Official-Service-Manual/dp/083761693X

I used something like this. I actually just have the wires pushed down into the connector and then taped into place. A more solid connection would probably be better but it's worked for me.

The only things I really used were electrical tape, wrenches for unbolting the amp and the ground bolt and sandpaper to make sure the ground connection is good. That's pretty much it.

I also just used a fuse to tap into the power. I just took a normal fuse, cut it in half, and connected the wire to the blade of the fuse. Makes a good connection that way.

woah, you have a coupe , never knew saab made one~!

LOL at that price. get the D501C coils off amazon and your good. hes quoting you OEM coil prices plus labor it sounds like
https://www.amazon.com/Delco-D501C-Original-Equipment-Ignition/dp/B0016HTBWY

So, a little while ago I posted on here about maybe buying a 2000 9-3 Viggen convertible.. and based partially on the replies I got, of course I ended up buying it (this really isn’t helping Reddit’s reputation with my wife…), though this article on Jalopnik definitely helped.. (hell the last paragraph basically told me I had to buy it..)

Now that it’s sat in my driveway, the fun begins.. and I’ll take any advice you guys have.

Current issues:

• The roof leaks.. a fair bit - I had the car sat in the driveway for a couple of weeks while I was out of town. I got home in the middle of a pretty bad storm where it had been pouring all day, so I figured it would be perfect for checking out the water-tightness of the roof and sure enough, there was water dripping in in a few spots: Front LHS leak, Rear RHS Leak, Rear Center Leak, Roof Central Leak. Based on how widespread the leaking was and because the seals around the perimeter still look pretty good, I’m thinking the soft-top may have just lost it’s waterproofness? (this would explain the wet spot in the middle of the roof, as well as why the leaks would only appear after a prolonged downpour..) Does anyone have any experience with this, or waterproofing products they’ve used successfully? I found this article on SaabCentral talking about a product call Renovo, but it looks like it’s a little tough to get in Canada, I’ve also found this “Protex” stuff on Amazon.. though I’ve had one mechanic mention just a good covering with ScotchGuard..? – In the meantime, I got a car cover to put on the car when it’s parked and it definitely seems to be keeping her dry
  
  
• Temperamental roof mechanism - When opening the roof, it needs a little help for the initial opening (lifting the rear window), if I go and give it a little manual lift while someone holds the open button, it seems to work fine; then for closing, it stops a few times through the cycle and I get a malfunction message.. but if I release the button then press it again it keeps going and eventually finishes. I’ve been told this might just be that it’s low on mineral oil.. does anyone with a soft-top have any insight?
  
  
• Spastic Alarm – This one seems to be a known issue.. the backup batteries on the alarm system die and then the system has a stroke and turns into a massive asshole, going off whenever it wants, not letting me disable it and generally pissing off all my neighbors. There was a lot of different info all over the web about which fuse would disable it, don’t know if the fuse box is different on the Viggen but none of them were right (seriously.. I ended up just cycling through every single one.. the damned thing kept whining the hole time). Anyway, I ended up just tearing the little possessed demon out. So not really an issue anymore, just needed to vent about this one..
  
  
• Rad fan cycling – Noticed the other night while she was idling in the driveway that the rad fan cycles on and off rather often and for short periods. Checked her temp and it looked stable.. is this common for this car or is there a chance I have a faulty temp sensor?
  
  
• Headlight wipers – first issue here is one’s missing.. anyone know where I can find a replacement..? Second issue.. they seem to just stop wherever they want to.. usually right in the middle of the light.. though this morning when I left I noticed they were back to flat at the bottom of the headlight.. do they just eventually reset themselves..?
  
  
• Oil – This is my first turbocharged car, I’ve heard they can burn through oil and if you don’t keep it topped up you can oil-starve and damage the turbo. Is this true on this car? How often should I be checking my oil levels? And what oil would you guys recommend I use? (the engine has about 100,000km - 62k miles on it and the rest has about 340,000km – 211k miles).
  
  I think that’s all I’ve got for now, though I’ll take any other advice you guys might have for me about things to look out for / monitor / keep an eye on, etc.
  
  Thanks!

Yes I would advise you to watch a video tutorial on how to. Would be much better than a written one. Only advice I have is to gather 4 or more friends to help you out. I had one person in each corner of the vinyl and one other person on the heat gun when needed. 5 people help made it easy but still required A LOT of patience. Patience is key!! Also, this is the vinyl I ordered. Gave me plenty of room to work with and also extra for wrapping my mirrors :D http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P6R78A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So here is the one I bought for my wife's Saturn, and this is for an iPod input. I'm sure they make other models that support 3.5mm input as well.

iSimple IS77 Universal iPod and iPhone Audio Input Cable for FM Radios
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IY598O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ukyEwb2JGMQJV

I just use a little of this stuff on a shop towel every month or so, keeps my headlights looking as crystal clear as possible. I definitely have some damage on the inside of the lens, but its a very noticeable improvement.

Thanks a lot. I think I might go with one of these FM Modulators because like I said I'd love to have an aux input but I just felt like it would be a shame to have the premium sound system but use an FM transmitter as the source.

amazon, it help with noise but does not eliminate it completely. I think before I installed the rack would wistle at ~40mph, now it wistles at ~70 with no skis. With skis it'll wistle at ~50 or so. It helps I guess, looks good too.

Thanks. Yup, Saab 93 Replacement Headlight Assembly Halogen - 1-Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BCJAQS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_88RoxbBMV9R3K

Only real way is to respray them, cleaners/restorers will only mask the issue in my experiance. I would personally take off both rear trims with trim removal tools then spray with something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autotek-AT00BTB500-500ml-Bumper-Spray/dp/B004ZJILY4 if you only do one it will look weird compared to the other, then you'll look at all the rest and end up doing them all... ask me how I know ;)

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ You had to use something like this to get that bolt out correct?

Similar Amazon Listing, pretty much the same price but I can also confirm this is the SEM part

Oh, I see. I didn't realize that's the one you were talking about. My phone is mounted on a Mountek Ngrove CD Slot Mount. I kinda wish I had gone with the magnetic version. I may still switch to that. It mounts reasonably firmly into the CD slot and doesn't wobble around too much despite having fairly firmly adjusted Koni shocks. It's a really convenient position for the phone for ease of access and not having to look down much. I have a second windshield mount when I'm using my phone as a GPS.

It's a Bluetooth speaker with FM transmitter, so you can broadcast from your phone to your car speakers.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Roadster-Universal-Bluetooth-Speakerphone/dp/B007AQF0WK

WIS is poorly organized and buggy:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1844256146/