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I have modded manual 2006 tC with 106,700 miles. It treats me good but I'll give you a full insight to these cars.

Annoyances/Problems

• For the 05-06' years the TPMS light can be annoying because the tire pressure is actually monitored by the ABS sensor (even 1 psi off and mine flips out). 07' and up there is an actual sensor within the rim.
  
  
• With the manual tranny models you might encounter the famous "mouse clutch" which squeaks when you depress it (mine does when I don't lube it from time to time). Luckily there is a nice lubrication fix with liquid wrench and a guide: http://clubsciontc.com/forums/diy-install-guides-23/diy-clutch-fork-squeak-fix-9916/
  
  
• The hatch sure loves to rattle it's heart out as well. I tune it out because it really doesn't bother me that much, however if you're OCD about the rattling there is plenty of fixes to it like this one: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/tc-tech-diy-1818/hatch-rattle-fix-33086/
  
  
• The hatch handle breaking off is the most infamous nuisance with the 2005-2010 TC model years. You absolutely need to be careful opening the hatch and make sure you don't put that much force on the handle. Just press the button on the handle and lift the bottom of the hatch up.
  
  
• There has been reports of 2007 TC models using excessive amounts of oil as well. Usually it's a toss up because the 2.4 i4 2AZ-FE is mass produced and there is always a few bad apples.
  
  
• AVOID THE TRD SUPERCHARGER AT ALL COSTS. The TRD Vortech superchargers are absolute pieces of shit and most people are reporting that they break down at 15-20 thousand miles. If you have the tools, parts, and time to rebuild the supercharger then I recommend it only.
  
  Most of that information above is the most common problems with TC's. The driveline, engine, transmissions, and factory clutches (mine is original at 106,700 and still smooth) are rock solid and has never broken down on me. I have a K&N short ram, straight pipe borla exhaust, RÄZO short shifter, and coil overs on mine for performance mods... No exterior mods because it's really easy to turn a TC into a rice rocket with a few stupid pointless exterior mods.
  
  POWER
  
  
• The TC stock is 160 HP @ 5700 RPM and 163 lb-ft torque @ 4000 RPM for the 05'-06 years. Stock power for the 07'-10' is 161 HP @ 6000 PM and 162 lb-ft torque @ 4000 RPM.
  
  
• The TC is mostly torque IMO with the stick shift. 1st-3rd on mine I really can feel the car hauling ass when I put my foot down on the gas and 4-5th is mostly just cruising along on a main road or freeway.
  
  
• The car is by no means fast at all however it can really get out of its way and goes when kick down thanks to the high torque on the car.
  
  
• I recommend 89 or 91 mid grade fuel from Shell, Exxon, Mobil, Chevron, or CitGO (depending where you live). The lowest octane is OK for the engine but I notice my MPG drops a bit and the car feels a bit more sluggish. I highly recommend Premium 91 or 93 fuel (depending where you live as well with the octane ratings) if you're going to track your car. People say it is snake oil (probably all stock IMO) but with mods on mine I definitely notice the difference between premium fuel vs. cheapo gas from some thrifty gas station.
  
  SAFETY
  
  
• All TC accidents I have seen all of the people have walked away with just cuts or bruises and sometimes NOTHING. These cars are rock solid (just feel the body it's pretty damn hard) and the beer can models come with 3 standard airbags: driver and passenger frontal+driver knee airbag. The TC's with the factory option side airbags include side torso for both seats and side curtain airbags on both sides.
  
  
• NTHSA ratings for the 2006 Scion TC:
  
• 5 stars driver, 4 stars passenger, 4 stars rollover.
  
• 4 stars side collision for front and 4 stars for side collision in the back.
  
  
• IIHS evaluation overall for the 2006 Scion TC: Acceptable.
  
• Side crash IIHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfZli6aqscc
  
• Frontal crash IIHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlXeEG85grM
  
  
  
• NTHSA ratings for the 2nd gen TC (2012):
  
• 5 star driver, 4 stars passenger, 4 stars roll over.
  
• 5 stars for all the side crash tests.
  
  
• IIHS evaluation overall for 2012 Scion TC: Good.
  
• Frontal crash IIHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p5XBrPHx9E
  
• Side Crash IIHS (2011 model tested in video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9R9FKKfhvw
  
  OVERALL
  
  On the final note: This car can be an absolute gas hog as well. The gears on the manual are really awkward and 5th gear going 65 MPH on the freeway I am at 3000 RPM... (really needs a 6th gear). In city driving isn't much better but overall I average about 29 mpg cruising on the freeway and 23 in the city. Overall I highly recommend the car but I don't recommend it for a teen because of it's power (18 years old at minimum). Most TC accidents I've seen has been a naive teenager showing off which ends up in a chaotic mess in the end and that is the reason why the TC is a bit more expensive to insure.
  
  EDIT
  
• I strongly recommend Chevron Techron concentrated fuel cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-67740-CASE-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893O
  
  
• The Techron fuel cleaner has improved my cars performance by clearing up all the shit in the fuel system, valves, and combustion chambers. Usually a sign your car needs Techron is when it idles rougly and when you turn on the AC. Another sign is the throttle not being really responsive (Techron really improved my throttle response!)
  
  
• Not sure if the MPG improvement is snakeoil or not but so far my gas gauge hasn't dropped like a rock while commuting on the freeway.

This is the tow hitch I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNNFMC/

And this is the cargo carrier that attaches:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E2AJ6O/

The carrier is rated for 300 lbs, but the tC's tongue weight is only rated for 200 lbs, so I try to keep it well under that (the dry weight of one of my mopeds is around 100 lbs). I use some ratcheting straps and it works like a charm.

I could probably also tow a small utility trailer for a motorcycle or kayaks or canoe or something like that, but I've never tried it. I think you could probably tow about 1000 lbs fairly easily though. The tC is geared low and has 160 hp so I'm sure it would be fine for light duty.

Cold Air Intake. Boosts both horsepower and mileage - one of those things that's kind of a no-brainer for pretty much any car. Super easy to install, too. I had one on my tC as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XZK9QU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014I1O6G

Thanks! Amazingly fast reply man! Okay, so something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-MK80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002E3PT52/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1/141-2664584-9781229?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002E3PT52&pd_rd_r=0f267c5f-b213-4d6b-bdaf-11c997c51464&pd_rd_w=Abd4N&pd_rd_wg=AIr1i&pf_rd_p=53e036f8-8d3b-407e-beae-88d349e4fc13&pf_rd_r=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT&psc=1&refRID=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT

Also the other side looks perfect, like it is much newer than this one (no cracks on the boots, etc), should I replace it anyway?

Theoretically they should be wearing the same on both sides. If cash is an issue then only do one side. But the other side usually fails after a few months when you do this.

Your boot deteriorated which means you might have uneven tire wear on that side. In any case after you replace them you should consider rotating your tires and get an alignment.

I don't know what year your xD is. but I prefer greasable Moog rods.
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B001CA6L6E

More options here
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/scion,2012,xd,1.8l+l4,1503722,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

Ebay is also a good source to save money

a) Read the manual. You just bought something expensive, so read it and have a general idea of what you need to do so you don't have to start digging every time you need to do something small. It will explain what the maintenance items are and on what schedule and basic instructions for how.

b) Get a tire pressure gauge like this (I just found this from a quick search on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001XPBZ0/ref=psdc_15709131_t2_B0002SQYTG

Use it to check your tire pressure against what is on the door. Generally you want to check it while cold (hasn't been driven lately), but if you don't have a way to inflate tires at home, your owner's manual will probably say to inflate it 2-3 psi above if they're hot (been driven lately). A lot of gas stations have free air (like QT and Kroger Fuel in my area), but they don't always have a way to check pressure, so you should get a gauge.

I got it on Amazon, I was going to get it from Andy's Autosport but it was to expense, plus shipping from Amazon is free.

For less than $50 after rebate, these AVS look great and let you leave the window cracked open in case it rains while parked somewhere.

Auto Ventshade 894002 Seamless Ventvisor Window Deflector, 4 Piece

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IF2BA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NQnGzbAFT7Y54

Interior Car Lights, Govee Car LED Strip Light Upgrade Two-Line Design Waterproof 4pcs 48 LED APP Controller Lighting Kits, Multi DIY Color Music Under Dash Car Lighting with Car Charger, DC 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6CPQK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8SVLDbGP4Z7YS

Something like this might be the way to go.
If it isn’t LED already, I would upgrade to this. If it’s a CCL (similar to neon lighting) I would definitely take that out.

From what I can gather, you can cut the wire where it connects to the cigarette lighter and splice that wire to the existing button

I'm not an expert by any means, but from /r/AutoDetailing I ended up getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

I just rinse the car down, mix that together in a bucket, use a microfiber mitt to apply it, then rinse it off and dry with a microfiber towel. I'm sure there are better/more specific products you could buy, though. Check /r/AutoDetailing for more.

It's a univeral, grabbed it from Fry's for 20$. Found it on Amazon for 13$ for you http://www.amazon.com/Bracketron-PHV-202-BL-Grip-iT-Mobile-Device/dp/B001B2PPYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407458543&sr=8-1&keywords=universal+vent+mount

NOTE:Super glue that mount to the clip when you get it, nothing more frustrating than hitting a bump on your way somewhere and your phone crashing to the floor.

Get a RAM mount. Worth the investment [amazon](Ram Mount Twist Lock Suction Cup Mount with Universal X-Grip Cell Phone Holder, Black, RAM-B-166-UN7U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066BWMNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_phQyybR1V6XBF)

They have blue caliper paint on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP404-Blue-Brake-Caliper/dp/B00296CH3Q

and

http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Leveling-G2-Caliper-System/dp/B000G28PPE

Yea most just stock gl-5 fluid so they use that. Gl-5 was created for differential use so it is much slippier. Slippier is not good for your synchros since they need to be able to grab.

My old 2006 m/t corolla had same issue. Manual even said you could use gl-4 or gl-5. Swapped to gl-4 and buttery smooth shifting.

Heres a DIY


And some manual trans fluid

It is, but you'd be way better off if you soldered.
Permanent connections, no way a wire will come loose.

You really only need a basic iron, solder and heat shrink.
Hell, this is all you need. https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Sleeve-Shrink-Tubing-240Pcs/dp/B01461R89O

If you wanted, you can get a set of helping hands too and make your life really easy.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8

Soldering is very easy when you're just splicing wires. Not a ton of skill required. Get a roll of stranded wire and practice a bit.

When it's time to do the harness, cut away the excess, so you don't have a ton of wiring shoved behind the dash, slip a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires first and then do a lineman's splice, solder that connection and then shrink the tube over the bare connection.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

this is a great kit, used it on my truck and my brothers corolla

One of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Show-Go-License-Plate-Holder/dp/B001E4E0ZW/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0

http://www.pfyc.com/GN1046.html

http://www.hidetheplate.com/

Nah I'm totally okay with running cable through the firewall. I've set up the sound system in my car so I've already done that for the power cable, I've also tapped into the clock for the remote wire for the amp.
So essentially, find out where the fuse is for dome lights, (insert object always on here), plug in one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ
and use the wire for power?

RAM Mount. They're all the rage for motorcycles and track racing:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ram-Mount-Suction-Universal-RAM-B-166-UN7U/dp/B0066BWMNU?ie=UTF8&keywords=ram%20mount&qid=1482863901&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1