Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

Absolutely on windows. Works really well on the original bus windows. I always recommend resealing the original windows. This stuff is like 7 bucks for 30 ft on Amazon. The windows is a place where you can prevent air from creeping in, Atleast through the mounts. I also recommend it for aftermarket windows as well. Really recommend it for anything that you need to seal. It's great stuff.

Edit: here is the link
Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W5MlDbBND9RNN

I definitely recommend covers as well. I've had plenty of rainy stuffy days where I couldn't open a window and was glad to have vent covers. Raises your roof line a bit though(broke one on a tree once). Really easy to install a replacement if it happens. Only cost about $20 each and don't require any sealing, they hover just above the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Cleaning-Aerodynamic-Included-40431/dp/B000BUQODG

I'm not an expert in school buses, but in cars and trucks the factory uses seam sealer like this- product below. Its probably very strong, unless its in your way I would leave it or add to it.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000PEWDKG

You can buy it here, off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013LLSZG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I was looking for these specifically for RVs and the appropriate ones are over $1000!! I'm not spending that kind money for a stove so I got this camp stove which is exactly the same design as the professional ones.
I've added a safety valve so I close the gas evertime I'm not cooking.
Besides I will open the windows and emergency exit on the roof when I am.

Haven't used it yet just works like a charm from my quick test run.
See here for my IG story on it:
https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE3OTk1Nzc3ODU1MDkxMzUx/?utm_source=ig_story_highlights_share&igshid=s8coijb8138r

To run your AC (and everything else, although they're really negligable) that long, you're going to need 37 100w solar panels. That's probably not going to fit on your bus, and by the sounds of it, it definitely won't fit your budget. Also, that 100w rating assumes that these panels are at a 90 degree angle to the sun. So, you'll need to tilt the panels. That also assumes you don't have losses from a crappy PWM solar controller. So, you're going to need MPPT controllers, which are expensive ($550 and way up). And you'll run four 6v Trojan T-105REs down to damaging levels in just two hours.

So, you're best bet is to either use your bus' engine as a generator, in which case I suggest an alternator to battery charger (These get much more power out of your alternator than a simple isolator will. They are well worth the money.) or buying a generator tied to a charge controller (You'll want/need the charge controller if you plan on plugging in anywhere anyway). The generator is by far more efficient (quieter and smells better), but you'll have to find a place for it, and store gasoline for it. It's more expensive up front, but cheaper in the long run.

Another tip would be to get a smaller AC unit. I'm in Texas where the weather is just as hot, if not as humid, and I'm running two 6,000btu window units. That way I can run one when I need to conserve power, and two when I can plug into "shore power" at a camp site or friend's house. New window units are cheap. And running just one of those will only cost you 7kW for the day instead of the astronomical 26kW you're talking about. I think my whole central air system at home uses less than 26kw a day, and I like it COLD!

With my setup that I'm building currently, I'm going to run the alternator to battery charger for when I'm driving (free power), 4x 250W solar panels on tilting racks, a MidNite Solar Classic 200 MPPT solar controller, a 3000w inverter/charge controller combo, 8x Trojan T-105REs, and a 30A shore power plug. I expect my total setup to cost me just under $5k. I also intend to add a second set of solar panels and solar controller next year to get another 1kW of solar up to need to run the bus engine less often.

Curious to see how much if any air from the hot exhaust migrates into the intake. Pink ribbon test held at various distances between the two holes when grills are/aren't attached? It looks like there is room to enlarge the intake hole higher and if there isn't any air migration, to the right. 100 degree intake might indicate some commingling so maybe not the right. Most of your big gains in performance may have already been made.

Another exhaust vent style.

I put together this infographic to show my not-yet-finalized plumbing set-up. I'd love to hear any layout feedback/advice or things I may be missing...

A couple specific questions:

1. Should I incorporate an accumulator tank? How big a difference?
   
   
2. Is an outdoor inline filter enough for drinking water? Should I add a pipe strainer?
   
   
3. Should I consider water pressure regulator, water softener, etc?
   
   Here are the parts (*purchased):
   
   (A) Camco TastePURE (B) *Valterra Water Inlet Hatch (C) Shurflo 4008 Revolution Pump (D/S) *Class A Customs 30 gal (E/H/M) Sharkbite Ball Valve (F/G) Sharkbite Check Valve (I) *Eccotemp i12-LP (J) Sharkbite Mixing Valve (K) Suggestions? (L) Suggestions? (N) Suggestions? (O/P/R) HepVo Trap (Pipes) 1/2-inch Pex

There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.

The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.

The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.

If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE

External pipe heater(needs insulation around it but this might be simplest/cheapest solution):
https://www.amazon.com/WRAP-Pipe-Heating-Cable-Built/dp/B0002YWM2I

Inline heaters:
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Whirlpool-tub-air-bath-heaters-Bathtub-shower-parts-Plumbing-parts-repair-Plumbing/4294644663

Electric Tank Heater(should use 1.1kw to heat 12 gallon 68f->105): https://www.amazon.com/American-Standard-CE-12-AS-Electric-Water/dp/B01IEJ1PWK/

Although these devices are advertised as AC I'm 99% certain you can use them with DC, as long as they don't have components other than the heating element. Just be mindful to not go over the rated voltage, with 48v DC it might have ~43% the heating wattage

Not sure if you'd want to drain the end-shower product into the tank heater as from what I've seen the end product of a shower loop isn't pure

https://www.amazon.com/Windshield-Defogger-Defroster-3-Outlet-Demister/dp/B07VT5N8ZZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=car+defroster&qid=1569869228&sprefix=car+defr&sr=8-5

Something like this. Maybe one for each side.

I used one of these works really well. Installed on both the front and rear door. https://www.amazon.com/NU-SET-2120-3-Locking-Deadbolt-Cylinder/dp/B000I6F1WS/ref=asc_df_B000I6F1WS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194861420852&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16918411886128368565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014870&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-309480173507&psc=1

Took me forever to figure this out. It’s not easy finding parts for the little three inch pipe. I ended up using the transition plate listed below with high temp insulation between it and the roof. Then on the roof I installed one of these high temp silicon rain guards. Also, if you are looking for a chimney cap Home Depot sells a cheap one that was recommended to us by cubic mini. We painted the stove pipe and chimney cap black using high temp paint.

176203 3" Ceiling Support/ Firestop-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHWAQK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Insulation, Wool, 0 to 1200 Degrees F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZI4T1U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3 Silicone Hi-Temp Pipe Flashing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792PT94W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.homedepot.com/p/100396919

VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I had this on my boat Amazon 6 gal 120vThere is another version that 2000w. I just used a 10 gauge extension cord to plug it in to a twistlock. It replaced a 2000 dollar stainless engine heated one.

I think they use to be cheaper too. Home Depot and Lowes has them as well.

Sorry title was slightly off, here's an amazon link: Select and Convert Your Bus into a Motorhome on a Shoestring https://www.amazon.com/dp/0972470417/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vR2LybJDR5Y32

How about one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Wise-Adjustable-Boat-Pedestal-Black/dp/B000KKET70/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=RV+Pedestal+Captains+Chair&qid=1572286982&sr=8-12

or

https://www.recpro.com/pedestal-for-rv-captains-chair/

Fan-Tastic Vent 4000R Off White Vent with Reverse Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRCGNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FUsEDb056YT3Z

I think it was this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069QLVC

I also used some self adhesive aluminum sheet I got from mcmaster to add mass and irregularity to the inside of the fiberglass hood and resist vibration and resonance before I started with the hoodliner. I went with self adhesive aluminum because the butyl based fatmat style accoustic pads get soft when they get hot.

I'm not at the bus, so let's apply some extremely crude guestimations.

• 10' - length from front of cab that we want sound deadening applied
  
• 7.5' - width of floor (x10 = 75sqft)
  
• 7.5' - width of ceiling (x10 = 75sqft)
  
• 2' - height of side panel (x10 = 20sqft)
  
• 10sqft estimate for paneling above/below windshield
  
  All that adds up to 180sqft. We won't cover all of it, so let's roll with ~25% coverage. Cut strips and run them along the most open portions of the panel (where they vibrate the most.) Thats comes to ~45sqft.
  
  We're applying Dynamat Extreme. One box covers about 2sqft. It would take 22+ boxes at a cost of $153.00 per box = a whole lotta nope (or $3,366.) In our case we'll be using dynamat on the most egregious noise makers. For example the front panel above the windshield where "School Bus" is typically written. Oncoming wind is going to make this panel especially noisy. For all the other areas we'll be trying to source left overs that people don't need or hunting for sales and discounts.
  
  We're keeping a tally of all costs on our bus. We want to share that with everyone. Probably the best way to know when we advertise that is to follow us here or on YouTube.