(Part 2) Top products from r/skoolies

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We found 26 product mentions on r/skoolies. We ranked the 113 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/skoolies:

u/CaptSnap · 2 pointsr/skoolies

First, You need to add up all the energy youre going to use in an average day. This is critical and no one else can really do it for you.

Theres a couple of ways to do this. You can buy a kill-a-watt meter and plug a power strip into it and then run everything you would want to run in a day off of it. This is it on amazon It will tell you how many watts everything has used.

Or you can go to a solar calculator on the web.....type in all the things you will use and what their rated wattages are. If you dont know them you can find them ..usually...on a label on the back near the power supply of each appliance. Or just google and use the larger number of their examples. Type in their wattage and how long you will use them. This too will tell you how many watts youre likely to use during a day.

Second, you need to size your solar array and your battery bank.

Lets say in your calculations you find that you use 2000w a day (2kw) that would be about 60kw a month if you want to compare it with your electric bill (which is pretty low but not unrealistic since you arent using a/c or any large appliances). For solar panels the math is pretty simple. If you get 4 hours of direct sunshine you would need 500w of solar panels to get your 2000w for the day under ideal conditions and assuming no loss. (never plan for ideal conditions and never assume zero loss but you get the idea) If you think youre going to get 8 (youre not) then you just need 250w....and so on.

You will probably never achieve this, I would shoot for 60% more solar on the bus than you think need on paper. For this example I would do my best to get 750 to 800 watts of panels. It is fair complicated and very build specific to try and calculate how much loss you will incur in your wiring and in panel placement. Since you can only have two panels the simplest and most elegant solution is to just buy panels that cover as much of the space as you have left as possible.

Panels also are never as efficient as they are the first year. If you size perfectly this year in a year or two you will be undersized.

For batteries you have to consider amp hours. Watts are amps * volts. Batteries are usually 12 v. Lets continue our example that you use 2000w a day and want to have enough reserve power to cover a full day. 2000w at 12v is 167 amps. An amp hour is one amp or one hour. We can take our 167 amps and know that you need 167 amp hours because youre using it over time. Im oversimplifying but thats the smallest amp/hour rating that will suffice. A good rule of thumb is to never drain lead acid batteries below 50% so now you need a 330 amp hours battery bank at the minimum. As an example that means you would need between 3 and 4 of these For lithium ion I think its 80% so thats 210 amp hours of lithium ion.

Your battery will never be as good as it is the first week so in a year's time neither of these banks will provide enough reserve energy if you just do the minimum required right off the bat. You will have to overbuild to account for this or add later.

If you want to work backwards then its a little less elegant. Lets say your coffee maker is 5 amps but its rated at 110 V thats 550 watts. Lets assume you use it for 15 minutes so thats ~138 watt hours. Your inverter will need to draw (138 watts divided by 12 V) about 11.5 amp hours out of your battery. If you have a 100 ah battery bank, that gives you 50 ah effective use...that 15 minutes of coffee making just used over 20 percent of your battery.

Charging your house batteries off the alternator can be very simple. This is what I used Put a switch in the cab and run a wire to the small terminal. When the small pole is energized it will connect the two larger poles. Wire one pole to one battery bank and the other pole to the other battery bank, use thick wire for the large poles 2/0. When the small pole is not energized the two poles will not be connected. When you want one bank to charge the other bank turn your switch on. When you want one bank to not drain the other bank, turn your switch off.

Im partial to this brand but you may find a cheaper one.

There are dozens of gauges that will tell you your battery voltages. Here is one example if you have everything wired correctly when you flip your switch to connect your two battery banks you should see their voltages come together.

u/CascadesDad · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

u/Mehrune_dagon · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Absolutely on windows. Works really well on the original bus windows. I always recommend resealing the original windows. This stuff is like 7 bucks for 30 ft on Amazon. The windows is a place where you can prevent air from creeping in, Atleast through the mounts. I also recommend it for aftermarket windows as well. Really recommend it for anything that you need to seal. It's great stuff.

Edit: here is the link
Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W5MlDbBND9RNN

u/upsidedownbackwards · 3 pointsr/skoolies

I definitely recommend covers as well. I've had plenty of rainy stuffy days where I couldn't open a window and was glad to have vent covers. Raises your roof line a bit though(broke one on a tree once). Really easy to install a replacement if it happens. Only cost about $20 each and don't require any sealing, they hover just above the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Cleaning-Aerodynamic-Included-40431/dp/B000BUQODG

u/iiiiiiiiiiii · 1 pointr/skoolies

I'm not an expert in school buses, but in cars and trucks the factory uses seam sealer like this- product below. Its probably very strong, unless its in your way I would leave it or add to it.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000PEWDKG

u/Ashandrik · 2 pointsr/skoolies

To run your AC (and everything else, although they're really negligable) that long, you're going to need 37 100w solar panels. That's probably not going to fit on your bus, and by the sounds of it, it definitely won't fit your budget. Also, that 100w rating assumes that these panels are at a 90 degree angle to the sun. So, you'll need to tilt the panels. That also assumes you don't have losses from a crappy PWM solar controller. So, you're going to need MPPT controllers, which are expensive ($550 and way up). And you'll run four 6v Trojan T-105REs down to damaging levels in just two hours.

So, you're best bet is to either use your bus' engine as a generator, in which case I suggest an alternator to battery charger (These get much more power out of your alternator than a simple isolator will. They are well worth the money.) or buying a generator tied to a charge controller (You'll want/need the charge controller if you plan on plugging in anywhere anyway). The generator is by far more efficient (quieter and smells better), but you'll have to find a place for it, and store gasoline for it. It's more expensive up front, but cheaper in the long run.

Another tip would be to get a smaller AC unit. I'm in Texas where the weather is just as hot, if not as humid, and I'm running two 6,000btu window units. That way I can run one when I need to conserve power, and two when I can plug into "shore power" at a camp site or friend's house. New window units are cheap. And running just one of those will only cost you 7kW for the day instead of the astronomical 26kW you're talking about. I think my whole central air system at home uses less than 26kw a day, and I like it COLD!

With my setup that I'm building currently, I'm going to run the alternator to battery charger for when I'm driving (free power), 4x 250W solar panels on tilting racks, a MidNite Solar Classic 200 MPPT solar controller, a 3000w inverter/charge controller combo, 8x Trojan T-105REs, and a 30A shore power plug. I expect my total setup to cost me just under $5k. I also intend to add a second set of solar panels and solar controller next year to get another 1kW of solar up to need to run the bus engine less often.

u/rcrracer · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Curious to see how much if any air from the hot exhaust migrates into the intake. Pink ribbon test held at various distances between the two holes when grills are/aren't attached? It looks like there is room to enlarge the intake hole higher and if there isn't any air migration, to the right. 100 degree intake might indicate some commingling so maybe not the right. Most of your big gains in performance may have already been made.

Another exhaust vent style.

u/lostinam3rica · 4 pointsr/skoolies

I put together this infographic to show my not-yet-finalized plumbing set-up. I'd love to hear any layout feedback/advice or things I may be missing...

A couple specific questions:

  1. Should I incorporate an accumulator tank? How big a difference?

  2. Is an outdoor inline filter enough for drinking water? Should I add a pipe strainer?

  3. Should I consider water pressure regulator, water softener, etc?

    Here are the parts (*purchased):

    (A) Camco TastePURE (B) *Valterra Water Inlet Hatch (C) Shurflo 4008 Revolution Pump (D/S) *Class A Customs 30 gal (E/H/M) Sharkbite Ball Valve (F/G) Sharkbite Check Valve (I) *Eccotemp i12-LP (J) Sharkbite Mixing Valve (K) Suggestions? (L) Suggestions? (N) Suggestions? (O/P/R) HepVo Trap (Pipes) 1/2-inch Pex
u/gunnie430 · 1 pointr/skoolies

There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.

The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.

The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.

If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE

u/Pokmonth · 1 pointr/skoolies

External pipe heater(needs insulation around it but this might be simplest/cheapest solution):
https://www.amazon.com/WRAP-Pipe-Heating-Cable-Built/dp/B0002YWM2I

Inline heaters:
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Whirlpool-tub-air-bath-heaters-Bathtub-shower-parts-Plumbing-parts-repair-Plumbing/4294644663

Electric Tank Heater(should use 1.1kw to heat 12 gallon 68f->105): https://www.amazon.com/American-Standard-CE-12-AS-Electric-Water/dp/B01IEJ1PWK/

Although these devices are advertised as AC I'm 99% certain you can use them with DC, as long as they don't have components other than the heating element. Just be mindful to not go over the rated voltage, with 48v DC it might have ~43% the heating wattage

Not sure if you'd want to drain the end-shower product into the tank heater as from what I've seen the end product of a shower loop isn't pure

u/WoodPunk_Studios · 1 pointr/skoolies

Thanks for the recommendation. Only issue is that my battery is 14V and all the related battery charging systems are 12V. I guess it shouldn't matter right?

Edit: shopping around I think I want a system with fairly high amperage that is designed for RV/ marine use. The only problem is the 12V/14V issue.

I'm between https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0157-1-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B002DU3S9A/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2U296R8AN80PO&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1478634974&sr=1-1&keywords=Battery%2BTender%2B022-0157-1%2BWaterproof%2B12%2BVolt%2BPower%2BTender%2BPlus%2BBattery%2BCharger&th=1

And the 24V version. Maybe I should stick to 12V because it will actually charge to 14.4V? May need to experiment.

u/peteck727 · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Took me forever to figure this out. It’s not easy finding parts for the little three inch pipe. I ended up using the transition plate listed below with high temp insulation between it and the roof. Then on the roof I installed one of these high temp silicon rain guards. Also, if you are looking for a chimney cap Home Depot sells a cheap one that was recommended to us by cubic mini. We painted the stove pipe and chimney cap black using high temp paint.

176203 3" Ceiling Support/ Firestop-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHWAQK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Insulation, Wool, 0 to 1200 Degrees F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZI4T1U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3 Silicone Hi-Temp Pipe Flashing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792PT94W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


https://www.homedepot.com/p/100396919

VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/monkeywelder · 1 pointr/skoolies

I had this on my boat Amazon 6 gal 120vThere is another version that 2000w. I just used a 10 gauge extension cord to plug it in to a twistlock. It replaced a 2000 dollar stainless engine heated one.

I think they use to be cheaper too. Home Depot and Lowes has them as well.

u/GordoFromEarth · 1 pointr/skoolies

I think it was this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069QLVC

I also used some self adhesive aluminum sheet I got from mcmaster to add mass and irregularity to the inside of the fiberglass hood and resist vibration and resonance before I started with the hoodliner. I went with self adhesive aluminum because the butyl based fatmat style accoustic pads get soft when they get hot.

u/gettinskooled · 1 pointr/skoolies

I'm not at the bus, so let's apply some extremely crude guestimations.

  • 10' - length from front of cab that we want sound deadening applied
  • 7.5' - width of floor (x10 = 75sqft)
  • 7.5' - width of ceiling (x10 = 75sqft)
  • 2' - height of side panel (x10 = 20sqft)
  • 10sqft estimate for paneling above/below windshield

    All that adds up to 180sqft. We won't cover all of it, so let's roll with ~25% coverage. Cut strips and run them along the most open portions of the panel (where they vibrate the most.) Thats comes to ~45sqft.

    We're applying Dynamat Extreme. One box covers about 2sqft. It would take 22+ boxes at a cost of $153.00 per box = a whole lotta nope (or $3,366.) In our case we'll be using dynamat on the most egregious noise makers. For example the front panel above the windshield where "School Bus" is typically written. Oncoming wind is going to make this panel especially noisy. For all the other areas we'll be trying to source left overs that people don't need or hunting for sales and discounts.

    We're keeping a tally of all costs on our bus. We want to share that with everyone. Probably the best way to know when we advertise that is to follow us here or on YouTube.