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Oh ok, I wasn't sure if it was some sort of special enclosure. I have a couple tube lights in the basement, that I ended up wiring to a smart outlet that turns on via a smart switch.

Yeah, I'd say that's probably your best bet in moving towards a smart switch. I like having the Z-Wave bulbs as well, but the switches are really nice.

My favorite one thus far is the GE Dimmer or On/Off Z-Wave switch. I slowly replaced most of my switches with these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2

They've been the most reliable product in my home.

Good luck!

This is making sense now, I'm pretty sure I'm following you. Black in your hot, white is your neutral, bare wire is ground, red wire is "load", this is the switch line. The fact that you have this in the outlet box coming from the ceiling is good.

So, I'm assuming that when you pull the fan down, you will see that there is a fan controller that is hooked up to the black and white wires. Making it permanently "hot" the fan controller then relays the fan on and off. You will find the red wire abandoned, it used to be used (or was intended to be used) to switch the light, it is still attached to the "load" of the switch.

You are in good shape.... GE makes a pretty good z wave fan control module. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ. You will remove the fan module and hook the black wire to the black wire of the fan and the blue wire to the red wire. The white wires should all be tied together and it should be capped off in the box the physical switch is.

Here is a diagram. http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/fan-switch-loop.gif

> I'm okay buying a hub

IF that's the case, then I'd get a hub. It gives you a lot more flexibility in smart options, more options for home automation, and you're not stuck just doing hue or through Wifi. I like SmartThings; plenty of people around here want something more sophisticated, and that's fine, but if you're just getting started it's a perfectly viable solution. The SmartThings hubs will allow you to get any Zwave or Zigbee switches. I'm a big fan of the GE switches; there's also a dimmer version. I haven't done much cross comparison, I've just never had a problem with any of the GE switches I own (~20). That said, the price keeps creeping up, so I've picked up some of the old Jasco ones, which is the switch that eventually became the GE Switch. The old ones are only Z wave, not Z-wave+, but I haven't had issue with those either.

A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.

In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.

Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.

If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.

Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.

I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.

End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.

Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.

You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.

Virtually all smart switches require a neutral (typically a white wire). Some dimmers only require 3 connections (live, load, and ground).

Smart bulbs are the easiest solution, but the most expensive (and annoying) in the long term (if the switch is off you can't control the light from other devices)

For using smart switches running an additional wire from the switch box to the neutral bus in the breaker box is an option but is usually the most labor intensive option. For other options you need to identify how the switches were wired. There are 3 common ways:

1. Best case: there are 2 sets of wires in the switch box, and 1 set of wires in the load box. This requires no new wiring you can simply install the smart switch
   
2. This are 2 black wires in the switch box (and possibly ground wire(s)), and 1 set of wires in the load box. In this case the builder likely cut the black wire and ran it into the box and the neutral is uncut behind the switch box. In this case you can remove the box cut the remaining wires and run all the wires into the box.
   
3. There is 1 full set of wires (black, white, and ground) in the switch box and 2 sets of wires in the load box, there are 2 options here, 1. rerun the wires between the switch and load boxes with 3 conductor wire (black, red, white, and ground) black as live, red as load, white as neutral, or 2. use a micro switch like: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4/ in the load box.
   
   Hopefully that helps.

GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q

And one of more of these

GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF

My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:

• SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch
  
• GE ZigBee Smart Lighting Dimmer, Plug-In, 2-Outlet, Led & CFL Bulb compatible
  
  In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
  
  Beware, there's a caveat:
  
  Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.

I use zwave GE smart switches. They are reliable and work amazing! I have one for my light and fan in the bathroom currently with a few different automation. zero issues.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Repeater-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=196U15RIKMG2C&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&qid=1569958084&s=gateway&sprefix=ge+z+wave+s%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-3


I would stay away from wifi light bulbs and wifi switches. Z wave is probably the best connection for those kinds of devices, especially if you want reliable fast local automation.

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

This depends on if you currently have a Smart Hub yet or not. If you do, a simple and easy to use switch, would be the GE line of Z-wave switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491404479&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+z-wave+switch

However, if you don't have Wink, or Smartthings, and want homekit support, then the Lutron Caseta is probably your best bet. It isn't really complicated, it just looks that way at a glance. But its really just a dimmer switch.

Here's an option to consider. If you go with a SmartThings hub and compatible devices including this switch that covers the existing physical switch, it's entirely possible to have a physical switch that refuses to turn lights on after it is pressed during the night while allowing it during the day (providing your WiFi lights work with SmartThings - the list is here). It will take some advanced programming using webCORE (the super powerful web-based SmartThings automation system) but it sounds like it would be incredibly useful for your particular situation.

Z-wave switches will do what you want and are compatible with Smartthings. I have a few GE dimmers but they also make non-dimming switches. You can get them for about $35, sometimes less.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles and Zwave Repeater Range Extender, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_shK0AbC9YFRW8

Can’t speak to how well they control fans or how they work in the same setup as the Lutron Casetta.

Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0VwgAbD6D17PZ.

New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TXwgAb5Z1F42N

Honestly if all you are wanting is the lights to turn on when someone walks in the room you may be better off not going with a smart solution. You can do what you want with Hue bulbs.

There are also a number of bulbs with motion sensors built in. I've never used one personally, so I'd do more research to see how it knows when to turn off.

https://top10perfect.com/top-best-motion-sensor-light-bulbs-reviews/

But your best and cheapest solution might be this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486211121&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vacancy+sensor+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=31E-2BSEFmL&ref=plSrch

I know you said you were worried about messing with wiring, but honestly in most homes (I'm assuming you are in America, excuse my assumption if you are not) to change out a switch you literally turn off the breaker that switch is on, unscrew the cover, take out two more screws that hold the switch against the wall and then there are two wires going to the switch. Take those out and put them in the new switch and reverse the process. It is insanity simple in most cases.

Anyways, hope that's helpful. Let me know if you have any more questions.

So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.

https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ

Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876032&sr=1-4&keywords=timer+plug

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876060&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GE+zwave+outlet

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sj1-BbZ9CRKJM

I have two of these controlling ceiling fans. They work great.

> but you don't cover them with Z-wave buttons, you cover them with a regular combination light switch

I meant something like this to go over the actual switch. Then I leave the real light switches on at all times, and use the z-wave buttons or Home Assistant to control the relay.

Good point on room in the box, too. I'll definitely need to check that out before I buy it

Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:

TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.

If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.

Well the best I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1542927191&sr=8-37&keywords=smart+outdoor+outlet

Which is not specifically for outdoors. I think probably the reason that there are not outdoor rated in gang box receptacles is that the electrical code for different areas could really make it hard to make a device that will fit them all.

Part of the problem is that a smart socket has to have power all the time (be it from a battery or from the AC) so there could be real issues with installing it properly.

If you decide to go ahead and do it this way, please consult with an electrician or your local governing authority to make sure you are following code. If you are not and there's a fire, it could go poorly for you.

Check out TP link smart switches

and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs

Hope this helps!

(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)

I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:

The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

No

If you have a switch for the fan and a switch for the light, you are better off with 2 zwave switches, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537134869&sr=1-4&keywords=ge+zwave+fan+switch

and

https://www.amazon.com/Repeater-Enabled-SmartThings-HomeSeer-Inovelli/dp/B01N235ROS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537134836&sr=1-2&keywords=inovelli+fan+switch


That would give you much better control over everything. For me and all my fans, I have exactly one control. So I need this to control fan/lights unless I want to run a secondary wire back (which I don't)

It can, but you'd need something like this. I use one of these for my zwave devices, and I'll eventually put my zigbee bulbs on it as well. For any wifi devices, you should just be able to integrate over the local network. To get an idea of what's supported, check out their components page.

GE / Jasco dimmer switches, ~$40 on Amazon, a few bucks less without the dimmer function.

Plug and play zwave functionality, just make sure there is a neutral wire.

I'm controlling incandescents, halogen, LEDs and I think at least one CFL with them and had no issues with the switches.

I am using a SmartThings hub to control them, FWIW.

EDIT: There is a zigbee version as well, though I think they are harder to find.

EDIT 2: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to use the SmartThings hub to control them, you can just tap on the switch and it works like any other paddle dimmer, it just provides the option of controlling via zwave.

Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.


https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484978461&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+12724

Fellow Canuck here. I've got this Schlage one, and it's been great. No issues at all with the cold weather (-30's on the prairies). On the really cold days, I'd unlock it from my warm car using my phone.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AGK9KOG

My Ring doorbell pro worked great too throughout the winter months. My ring stickup cam not so much - the battery didn't like the cold.

Easiest first thing to do is add a Google Home (or Alexa but sounds like you’re in the Google ecosystem). This gives voice control to anyone in the house. Next I would consider adding some physical switches for the bulbs - you’ll probably need a hub like SmartThings unless you’re willing to wire them in because all the WiFi switches need power. Here is a wireless example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9w5Xzb56QC5K0

I don't have any experience with them, but the Broadlink hubs can pair with Alexa. I was considering one before I found a good deal on a Harmony.

I went with a Linear HUSBZB-1. One of the top reviews there even has some helpful instructions for setting it up with Home Assistant. The controller itself seems to work fine. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the brightness control of my GE dimmers working correctly. On/off and fan controls work perfectly, so I'm guessing the problem is in Home Assistant or OpenZWave. So, YMMV depending on what you use it for.

I have 4 bulbs in lamps that aren't on a switch and these work well because you just leave the lamp turned on. I have one switch that controls a smart bulb and I am considering changing to a smart switch like this https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2 as it too easy for someone to turn off my bulb. I don't believe that the power drain is huge leaving the switch on at all times but don't have any equipment to measure the power usage.

I would like some switch that looks like a normal decora switch but just sticks on the wall. Hoping your post can draw out some recommendations. Been waiting for another sale on the at the Lightify Dimmer Switch as a fallback.

Not a problem! GE has a smart fan switch that will work for what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
You would need a z-wave hub though.

Or you can get crazy with the Harmony and the Lutron Maestro IR fan and light switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CHWyybQC0JFEJ
But no Siri voice control and probably awkward through Alexa.

I use the GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Dimmer Switch with SmartThings for my exterior lights. I really like that they are set to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

GE's not quite as expensive. Check these out. You'll need one smart dimmer for every light, then however many add-on switches.

GE z-wave smart dimmer


GE add-on switch

I have a Wink Hub as my smart controller, then am getting some of these to convert my light switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vDODybFPS73D2

There are also 2 switch versions that would control 2 lights, but basically they act like a 2nd switch for the light but it's hidden in the wall box so both the hub or switch can control the light.

I installed a couple of these about 9 months ago: https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-BE469NX-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493809142&sr=1-2&keywords=camelot+schlage

Supports multiple 6-digit codes, so each family member/neighbor can have their own & connects to hub for text alerts/remote control etc. I haven't used a key for the house since I installed them. Schlage have been making locks for nearly 100 years, and I have found them to be reliable.

Plus, they look cool without appearing too girly.

Install an automatic toilet flusher and also a smart light switch controlling the lights in your washroom. You could program your light to blink on and off once a day which will trigger the toilets photo sensor to automatically flush. You might have to find an automatic flusher with an adjustable sensor. I would set it to most sensitive for this configuration.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Touchless-Dual-Flush-Converter-Replacement-TECHO/dp/B01DO7ABHW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=automatic+toilet+flush&qid=1573580908&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTTRITVgwNEJBR0tJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDMxNzY5M0IySDdaUjhUTzFXVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEwMDUzMksyNDgwQkFQTEZMWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=smart+switch&qid=1573581759&sr=8-5

It's fairly simple


Combine this https://www.home-assistant.io (if your running on a pi you probably want hass.io) with one of these and your pretty much done.

I think you are looking for a paddle switch so the light switch doesn't have to be on the "on" position all the time. I see a lot of people use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482999401&sr=1-4&keywords=Ge+paddle or this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 I can't speak for Hue or LIFX and Nest because I think they use their own standard (not z-wave so it doesn't play well with smartthings) other than if you would like to change light colors. If I had a clean slate, I would stick with one standard, z-wave products.

I have two switches in my apartment and love them while they are single pole, you can wire it into a multipole, just don't ever the other switch. It was easy for us because one switch was on the kitchen counter behind the coffee machine, and the other ended up behind some shelving.

I wired it myself and I have very very limited knowledge on the subject. I think you can set a timer, or at the very least you can use your cell phone to turn it off from the bed.

Also these are hubless, but you can get a hub if you want one.

This is really what you are looking for. It has energy monitoring, so you could use that to determine if it is drawing a load, you might even be able to work up some automation to tell you if it has a load during certain hours or if your phone is outside of the house.

I control all my Z-wave switches, lights, etc with a hub. Then Alexa talks to that.

Allegedly, Z-wave works with Alexa, but I've never tried it direct. Others should chime in here.

For your fan, this may work for you:

https://www.amazon.com/NFS20Z-Enabled-Isolated-Fixture-Mounted/dp/B00WXLRF2U

1 switch controls light and 1 switch controls fan? if so light switch / fan switch

Not sure how long they’ve been around (I just bought them last month), but these are ones I have: GE Z-wave fan switch

Ok, I'm sorry, I don't understand how any of this works but I'm trying to learn!


So these light bulbs would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed/dp/B075MVMRCM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539489965&sr=8-6&keywords=dimming+light+bulbs


and these switches:https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=lp_13575748011_1_4?srs=13575748011&ie=UTF8&qid=1539490103&sr=8-4



and I was thinking about getting a lamp in one room, I could use this plug: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1539490403&sr=8-15&keywords=dimmer+outlet


and a wink hub.


And I would be able to dim and lighten a room from my phone (or the switch on the wall for those plugs). This comes out to be ~$300 for the whole set.


The Phillips Hue would be $665 for the same set up.


Do I have this right? I plan to do more research, but just so I am at the same baseline.

This is the one I've been using:

GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LzDxbDAQFFY3

Yes. Z-wave water heater switch.

I did a google search with the terms "120v smart plug outdoor" and got this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12720/dp/B00YTCZZF0?th=1

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch, On/Off Control, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.HWsDb3VAEJTQ

Comes with an almond paddle

If you have a zwave hub this GE switch has the proper modes to turn off but not on.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting Control Motion Sensor Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Vacancy / Occupancy Sensor, White & Light Almond Buttons, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink & Alexa, 26933 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5

If you don’t want it to integrate with a hub, the below can do what you want in the proper mode.

Lutron Maestro Sensor switch, 2A, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC

Then Lightify is the only option really, but it does require a hub as well. The link below should be the one.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

For light switches: something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482171474&sr=8-1&keywords=Zwave+light+switch

Look for z wave micro switches. They wire in and fit behind the switch. Or you can enlarge the hole and retrofit a 2 gang remodel box.

Either option is similar in work and wire expertise. For the box you will just need a little slack in the wires or to use wire nuts and extend them, also you will need to cut a larger hole in the drywall. If you can handle wiring a light switch diy, then either option is doable.

The other option is smart bulbs. Hue bulbs can be controlled by a smartthings hub directly.

You could get the rm mini or rm pro, which acts like an IR repeater and works with alexa. It will take the remotes commands and repeat them to your tv. So once it learms power on/off, volume, channels from your remote, you can ask alexa via commands to control these elements. I use it for 2 of my Samsung TVs and I’ve never had an issue with them.

broadlink rm mini 3

broadlink rm pro

If you get an Echo Dot you can get any speakers that use either Bluetooth or a 3.5mm cable. So the field is wide open on that one.
For the lights you would need something like this on Amazon

Is this what you are looking for? It's GE's Z-Wave fan control switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=asc_df_B00PYMGVVQ5057002/

My advice was only 100% relevant to the brands I mentioned and am not advising splicing wires.

In the case of the brands I mentioned, the difference between a unit with a pump and one without is literally a pump installed into the machine compartment. The cord which would otherwise be plugged into the wall from the ice maker is plugged into a socket on the pump and the pump itself has its own cord that then goes to the wall. The pump is supposed to shut off power to the ice maker if the pump fails.

Looking at the pump kit for the Scotsman it is clear that this isn't the case. I don't have any suggestions at this point, though you could try splicing if you really wanted to with one of the in-wall switches like:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

They sell a zigbee/zwave usb stick.

The comments say:

> Using RPi gen1, Home Assistant, and OpenZWaveControlPanel:
>
> 1) Fresh, headless raspbian
>
> 2) Home assistant all in 1 installer
>
> 3) /etc/udev/rules.d/99-usb-serial.rules:
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ Z-Wave Com Port", SYMLINK+="zwave"
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ ZigBee Com Port", SYMLINK+="zigbee"
>
> 4) /home/homeassistant/.homeassistant/configuration.yaml:
>
> zwave:
>
> usb_path: /dev/zwave
>
> zigbee:
>
> device: /dev/zigbee

I use Sengled Zigbee bulbs and put this zigbee switch overtop of our normal switch. So basically the power is always on to the lights, but you can control it via voice or by using the switch on top of the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

Yep! Here's a link of something similar. Not sure if that's the exact one I got.

Here you go:

SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yOG5Ab9B22XYP

NuTone NFS20Z Smart Z-Wave Enabled Isolated Fixture Mounted Control, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WXLRF2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CQ.2AbTHN7542

I have several of those set ups in my home. I use ZWave switches and plugs.

I have a SmartThings hub controlling it with the built in Smart Lighting app. If I turn on my switch it will automatically turn on a plug that has a light plugged into it.

I have over cabinet lighting connected to my dining room lights, and a curio cabinet connected to living room lights. It's not instant, usually about a 5 second delay between tuning on the switch and the plug turning on.

A scene controller should do the same thing without controlling a circuit directly, and should be faster. Usually they have a few buttons on them. But they cost more than a standard switch.

This is what I have in my laundry room.... Looks like they have an LED Dimmer version now too. I'm considering getting that for the bathroom...

Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch, No Neutral Required, 250 Watts, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_M1MUDbYY3A2DX

They do NOT need to be the same switch, just the opposite: most (all?) manufacturers make an "add on switch" for just such a purpose. The wiring gets kind of funky, not normal 3-way switch wiring.

Here is a walkthrough I found very helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V1SRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are you running a hub? You could use a normal bulb and go this route: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4

You can connect multiple Schlage z-wave locks to a single z-wave hub.

Schlage Z-Wave Connect Camelot Touchscreen Deadbolt for me.

There are a whole bunch of options available. I just listed 3 below:

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW1KD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01MS6JDUW/ref=sr_1_9_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056365&sr=1-9&ppw=fresh&keywords=levitron%2Bdimmer%2Bswitch&th=1

Here's an option

Just to verify, is it this one? Do you happen to know if there's a version with a dimmer?

[ I use this Broadlink one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z84UDb2J2GGBV)

This is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j1ikDbR0SGPP3

Are you aware of this product? Not sure if it covers your amperage requirements: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0?sa-no-redirect=1

My gas fireplace is already wired to a dumb light switch.

I wouldn’t foresee any problems converting that switch to a smart switch and seeing the same on/off behavior.

If yours isn’t wired into a light switch already then I’d look for a z-wave inline switch like the one I used on my garage door: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WXLRF2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4krUAb8FJHWKB

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

If you do not need it to be IOT connected these lutron occupancy sensors work extremely well. They have different settings and you can set it so that it turns on manually but turns off after a slightly Variable set time no motion.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/

With Z-wave you can connect a switch to another device no hub required. Example...
This,
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW

Can control this,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LQFHN2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2MTH68EAGRM75BW5Z7KZ&th=1

Without a hub. Just the two devices connected to each other. I've never done it because I've got a hub.

Non affiliate link: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/. Spam out.

That's probably the route I'm going to take.

and for context, I am 24 and the "apartment" in this case is my room at my folks house as I still live at home. No lease violations to worry about.

Now, if I purchase something with Z-Wave like this (https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2), will I also have to buy a controller?

I'd prefer it to just work over WiFi which I know the WeMo switch will do but the GE one is a bit cheaper.

It's not really smarthome, but lutron makes switches that do that. It's the vacancy option.

Basically they have two settings. Occupancy will turn lights on when they detect motion. Vacancy requires you to turn them on, but turns them off after a period of no motion.

Lutron Maestro Sensor switch, 2A, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_smS7Bb8Q8CAKA

I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_o8EqDbTC1P2HK

in Smartthings.

It fits over a light switch so you can no longer use it and can be set up to connect to Hue through Smartthings.

There's also the new Lutron Aurora. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/SmartBulbDimmer/overview.aspx It connects directly to the Hue hub and is nicer looking, but pricier.

Alternatively, you can get Switches for insteon or caseta. Both require their own hub but they have no neutral required switches. It won't work directly with Hue, but it will act as a kill switch for power to the Hue lights so it just may require multiple commands like "turn on caseta kitchen lights, set hue kitchen lights to blue".