Top products from r/sportster

What type of Carb? A kehein CV is going to give you the best response on your ironhead; Mikuni and S&S will both work okay with more fiddling.

Ironheads take a LOOOOONG time to warm up, like 20 minutes at 50 mph according to my manual; and you need to make any carb adjustments when fully warmed or it will be fuck-o.

AFTER IT'S WARMED UP: First you increase the idle speed to ~1500, THEN you set the A:F to halfway between stumbling from too rich and too lean, and THEN you set the idle back to ~1100 or wherever your manual says it should be.

This is a great book on tuning Ironheads.

I'd ditch the drag pipes or install some "lollipops" to help with low end response. (Drag pipes are tuned for DRAG RACING aka wide open throttle)

Straight pipes are not very responsive at idle or when just bumping around town.

Verify your stator is healthy before you throw a new battery on your bike.

Do you keep the bike on a battery tender when you aren't riding it? You definitely should.

As for batteries, any AGM battery will do fine. The very best batteries are the Lithium Ion models from Shorai, but they are VERY expensive (about $150-$250), but they deliver massive cold crank amps which is exactly what you need, especially if you are trying to start a 1200 conversion with the 883 starter/gearing.

1. Verify your stator is putting out the correct volts across the entire RPM range. Your service manual will have the correct voltage values for various points in the RPM spectrum.
   
   
2. Start using a battery tender.
   
   
3. If you decide to buy a new battery, any AGM battery will be fine, but you really should consider saving up for a Shorai Lithium Ion battery, as it will meet your needs and then some. Here is a direct link to the Shorai battery for your bike: http://shoraipower.com/products?action=vehicle&type=175&make=941&model=7529&year=7529 It is $250, which I know is a lot to spend on a battery. It also puts out THREE HUNDRED AND SIXTY cold crank amps which is enough to start a big block V8.
   
   
4. Also verify the resistance of your plug wires and the health of the plug boots and the connections between the boots and the coil and the boots and the spark plugs. I doubt a hotter ignition module will do much good for you, but its possible that your current plug wires are not as good as they used to be and if the resistance is higher due to internal corrosion...that can suck away juice that should be getting to your plugs.
   
   
5. Verify your carb is healthy and in good working order. When was it last cleaned?
   
   
6. Inspect and gap your plugs, or just straight up replace them if its been more than a few years.
   
   

I installed these on my Triumph Bobber and fit amazingly, are quite affordable and are nice and bright.

I imagine you could connect to the ignition circuit. GPS and cell phone chargers don't draw that much power, I'm pretty sure you would be okay. I'm not 100% certain though, maybe toss a thread up in XLForums, or ask /u/gunslinger_006, he is the resident Sportster expert IMO. Wherever you add the wire, ensure to fuse it properly.

Edit for what I do on my sporty: I have a battery tender lead tucked behind my fuse panel cover, and I got a 12 volt socket adapter for my tender plug. I keep it in my saddle bag, and charge up when I need to :-)

Get a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter like this: https://amzn.com/B001DKN9CC

Sand the end flat to get rid of the rounded edges and it will fit perfectly snug right in the middle of the chevron. You can even continue to use it as an adapter.

OP, you mentioned that you have a factory service manual. Clutch cable replacement starts on page 261.

I'm sure plenty of the "more seasoned" members will disagree :eyeroll: but my preferred method is quick and simple.

Get your standard INC power cord like the one found at this link: https://www.amazon.com/Foot-Power-Cord-Computers-etc/dp/B0002ZPHAQ

Grab some wire strippers or a pocket knife, hack off the female end, split the pair and strip back about a half an inch.

Make sure your bike is in neutral and the key is in the acc position (before on)

Then plug the IEC into a nearby wall outlet with enough lead to reach your bike. Stand the bike up with the battery cover and seat off.

While straddling the bike (careful this part takes a little finess) drop trou and shove the stripped pair securely into your rectum.

It‘s a 2000.

The fairing: https://www.amazon.ca/Krator-Quarter-Windshield-Davidson-1995-2005/dp/B06XZWJDXT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=krator+quarter+fairing&qid=1557205615&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

The headlight: https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Projector-Headlight-Headlamp-Driving/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=3H9HI92SWNCV6&keywords=sunpie+daymaker&qid=1557205679&s=gateway&sprefix=sunpie+da&sr=8-4-fkmrnull

To install the fairing, you will need a docking hardware kit. Since I didn’t find any aftermarket kit with good reviews, I chose the genuine Harley kit:
P/N 58164-96A

I had to trim quite a bit of the fins behind the headlight to make it fit. I don’t know if my bike originally had that much wiring in there though.

You can use these and mount under your tank https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3209-Tachometer-Mounting/dp/B00062YWNI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519655184&sr=8-9&keywords=autometer+tachometer

I used this although it mounted to the fork and it is works so good and is super tucked in https://www.amazon.com/WinllyAT-Relocation-Bracket-Sportster-1995-2016/dp/B074H7LLNX/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519655244&sr=1-8&keywords=sportster+speedometer+relocation

You're welcome: https://www.amazon.com/BioSwiss-Novelty-Bandages-Self-Adhesive-Funny/dp/B07B6T689G/ref=pd_sim_121_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07B6T689G&pd_rd_r=76d0c77f-8868-4c9a-9ec3-97797525618f&pd_rd_w=zbGzF&pd_rd_wg=WmqHN&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=2ND6BBN0W9R8GW8BV5ZF&refRID=2ND6BBN0W9R8GW8BV5ZF&th=1

I'm a fan of the Dakota Digital speedo, but they are pricey as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digital-MCL-3200-Speedometer-Tachometer/dp/B002VVCJT6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395148785&sr=1-1&keywords=dakota+digital

Buy a set of reversible snap-ring pliers. Something like this- http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4512-Internal-External-Snap-Ring/dp/B000OQMIZU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1411835018&sr=8-10&keywords=snap+ring+pliers

You'll need them for other things on the bike too.

As for the clutch snap-ring, take a wooden or leather mallet and tap the clutch hub around the rim LIGHTLY, at the 4 points of the compass (not the clutch release retainer). It'll move the clutch hub back that microscopic bit so it's not forced against the snap-ring when you try to remove it.

This is the stuff I use (black only):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MY3ML8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this might work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248908-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492443039&sr=8-1&keywords=red+high+temp+paint

Duro HF904 Median Tire - Rear - 130/90-16 , Tire Size: 130/90-16, Tire Type: Dual Sport, Rim Size: 16, Position: Front, Tire Ply: 4, Load Rating: 67, Speed Rating: S, Tire Application: All-Terrain 25-90416-130-TT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VVW768/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dS9EybZ2H8P11

So far so good. Smoothish ride with a nice auditory feedback.

I got some leather saddle bags on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CDZNBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1) and just throw them over the rear of the seat when I need them. I also tie a piece of leather shoelace through the holes and around the sissy bar.

I picked up this one from Amazon for $100 w/prime shipping

This: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QM94FQD1ZYPEYY78R4KZ

plus this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

The first one has a number of accessories you can connect from a battery charger to heated clothing. The second is a usb adapter.

Motorcycle 5-3/4 5.75 LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,wide glide Headlamp Projector Driving Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_86j7CbA5K4AXV

I purchased this one: 5-3/4 5.75 Daymaker LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_lr61rViUiOus6

Right here.

Thanks to this thread, just put this on my bike:

USB Connector

Tender receiver

Have my phone in a case on my bars to run as a speedo/map/GPS tracker. No more limited distance.

This piece gave me hell. When I tried turning it with my bare hands, it would cut into me when I tried rotating it. I solved this problem by wearing a glove with rubber dots on it (example) to help me grasp it better. Still annoying though. Don't give up, it is possible!

I have one similar to this, but it seems that the kickstand and some other bit is in the way when I try to lift the bike with it, and I don't want to damage these parts ('16 883). Maybe i'm doing it wrong, I dunno, but I couldn't figure out any other way. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCHCIW/