(Part 2) Top products from r/sportster

Do it! It's a slightly tedious job but the look you get from it is supreme. Keep in mind I also relocated the ignition with the kit. If you install a tank lift the look is even cleaner bc you have more room. You can tuck the harnesses much easier (if you look close under the HD logo you can see one of them sticking out.. eye sore if you know what to look for haha). And yes you wrap it to the frame section by section. I used e-z tape to combat all the elements and protect the wires. This video from blockhead explains it much clearer and a visual aid. I highly highly recommend watching his videos and throw him some love

No, the heavy duty ones are too harsh unless you do a lot of two up riding. If you always have your old lady on the back, the heavy duty ones are a good choice.

Get the 412, 13" ones for sure, and crank up the preload until the sag is right (it should be sagging about 1/3 of its total travel without you on the bike, just under its own weight. Remember that to see total travel, you need to jack the bike up until the wheels are just 1mm off the ground).

As for front springs, you don't NEED to do them, but if you care about handling and brake dive, a set of Race Tech springs will do an amazing job in the front. Its very easy to install them, you just need the 39mm front fork cap tool or this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XMYHOI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

You can swap the front springs without changing the fluid also, but you should change the fluid every 5 years or so.

Racetech has a calculator on their site that lets you figure out the spring rate. I weigh only slightly less than you, and I bought a .95Kg/mm spring and its perfect.

http://www.racetech.com/

Don't get the Progressive front springs, even though Progressive makes a fine rear shock, their front springs are, in my opinion, garbage.

I imagine you could connect to the ignition circuit. GPS and cell phone chargers don't draw that much power, I'm pretty sure you would be okay. I'm not 100% certain though, maybe toss a thread up in XLForums, or ask /u/gunslinger_006, he is the resident Sportster expert IMO. Wherever you add the wire, ensure to fuse it properly.

Edit for what I do on my sporty: I have a battery tender lead tucked behind my fuse panel cover, and I got a 12 volt socket adapter for my tender plug. I keep it in my saddle bag, and charge up when I need to :-)

Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rGt1Ab1YM58V5
I have this and it works perfectly for me. It lifts the bike tall enough to change your tires and stable enough too. And it's easy to store when you are not using it.

Get a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter like this: https://amzn.com/B001DKN9CC

Sand the end flat to get rid of the rounded edges and it will fit perfectly snug right in the middle of the chevron. You can even continue to use it as an adapter.

OP, you mentioned that you have a factory service manual. Clutch cable replacement starts on page 261.

uhhhhhhhh If you say so...

You wouldn't know of good how to for dummies / videos that would go over these?

Also does the quality of mulitmeters really matter if it's just for motorcycle diagnoses? was thinking of getting this, but some of the reviews say it's not that great, what distinguishes a great multimeter from an okay one?

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426173691&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

I'm sure plenty of the "more seasoned" members will disagree :eyeroll: but my preferred method is quick and simple.

Get your standard INC power cord like the one found at this link: https://www.amazon.com/Foot-Power-Cord-Computers-etc/dp/B0002ZPHAQ

Grab some wire strippers or a pocket knife, hack off the female end, split the pair and strip back about a half an inch.

Make sure your bike is in neutral and the key is in the acc position (before on)

Then plug the IEC into a nearby wall outlet with enough lead to reach your bike. Stand the bike up with the battery cover and seat off.

While straddling the bike (careful this part takes a little finess) drop trou and shove the stripped pair securely into your rectum.

If you're looking for cheap I use a set of canvas ones I found on Amazon. They're not pretty but you can shove 2 18 packs in each one if you're brave enough.

https://i.imgur.com/J4eoUX4.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Stansport-766-Saddle-Bag/dp/B004Z1239G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=canvas+saddle+bag+motorcycle&qid=1557353861&s=gateway&sprefix=Canvas+saddle&sr=8-4

You can use these and mount under your tank https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3209-Tachometer-Mounting/dp/B00062YWNI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519655184&sr=8-9&keywords=autometer+tachometer

I used this although it mounted to the fork and it is works so good and is super tucked in https://www.amazon.com/WinllyAT-Relocation-Bracket-Sportster-1995-2016/dp/B074H7LLNX/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519655244&sr=1-8&keywords=sportster+speedometer+relocation

You're welcome: https://www.amazon.com/BioSwiss-Novelty-Bandages-Self-Adhesive-Funny/dp/B07B6T689G/ref=pd_sim_121_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07B6T689G&pd_rd_r=76d0c77f-8868-4c9a-9ec3-97797525618f&pd_rd_w=zbGzF&pd_rd_wg=WmqHN&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=2ND6BBN0W9R8GW8BV5ZF&refRID=2ND6BBN0W9R8GW8BV5ZF&th=1

I'm a fan of the Dakota Digital speedo, but they are pricey as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digital-MCL-3200-Speedometer-Tachometer/dp/B002VVCJT6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395148785&sr=1-1&keywords=dakota+digital

Buy a set of reversible snap-ring pliers. Something like this- http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4512-Internal-External-Snap-Ring/dp/B000OQMIZU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1411835018&sr=8-10&keywords=snap+ring+pliers

You'll need them for other things on the bike too.

As for the clutch snap-ring, take a wooden or leather mallet and tap the clutch hub around the rim LIGHTLY, at the 4 points of the compass (not the clutch release retainer). It'll move the clutch hub back that microscopic bit so it's not forced against the snap-ring when you try to remove it.

This is the stuff I use (black only):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MY3ML8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this might work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248908-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492443039&sr=8-1&keywords=red+high+temp+paint

Duro HF904 Median Tire - Rear - 130/90-16 , Tire Size: 130/90-16, Tire Type: Dual Sport, Rim Size: 16, Position: Front, Tire Ply: 4, Load Rating: 67, Speed Rating: S, Tire Application: All-Terrain 25-90416-130-TT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VVW768/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dS9EybZ2H8P11

So far so good. Smoothish ride with a nice auditory feedback.

I got some leather saddle bags on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CDZNBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1) and just throw them over the rear of the seat when I need them. I also tie a piece of leather shoelace through the holes and around the sissy bar.

I picked up this one from Amazon for $100 w/prime shipping

This piece gave me hell. When I tried turning it with my bare hands, it would cut into me when I tried rotating it. I solved this problem by wearing a glove with rubber dots on it (example) to help me grasp it better. Still annoying though. Don't give up, it is possible!