(Part 2) Top products from r/supermoto

sometimes you have to put it right on a steel bolt off the frame/engine/wherever to see a good spark.. but it's usually not that hard to see. Another option is to get an inline spark tester... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6
harbor freight does have one.. should work well enough. Good to have regardless.

If you're confident it's not sparking, First replace the plug and try again. it's the cheapest and most logical possible cause. Next would be battery.. sucks because it costs a fair amount of money. Then the coil under the gas tank.. if battery and new plug don't fix it (still a weak or no spark). That inline tester would be pretty handy at that point but if you have $65, get the cap on coil replacemnt/upgrade that SSW makes.. http://www.sisnerosspeedworks.com/dr-z400-cap-on-coil-conversion
It's not an upgrade in the sense of performance or anything.. but it gives your bike modern tech and will almost guarantee that none of these are the issue you are having. Really, replacing those three parts is good for you to do eventually anyway.. the coil is not so necessary unless you have an issue, but the other two are pretty much a periodic thing you would do eventually . So essentially you really only spend on the coil where you may not have to. If none of that fixes it.. your harness has an issue somewhere and get a meter out and start measuring. I think that's the route I would go.. of course I'm trying to isolate this over a keyboard on reddit so I reserve the right to be a little bit off on my recommendations! Hah

You buying used or new?

Change the oil frequently (I do around 1K miles), and if you ride it fast, check the oil frequently. I like to check the oil at the end of the day any time I ride for more than an hour. I do this for my sanity, as checking the oil is annoying as the bike needs to be ridden a bit before an accurate measure can be taken. Also note how much oil goes in (2L) and measure how much oil comes out when you change it, also for sanity.

The petcocks love to fail on these, and when they do you'll get intermittent starting issues, and gas in your oil (very not good). I replaced mine with a Yamaha petcock (5LP245000100). It is manual so remembering to switch on and off every time is an adjustment.

You can get a bigger gas tank for 250 bucks. I like the IMS 4 gallon tank. I can go 150+ miles on a tank.

Seat concepts makes a nice comfy seat.

Many folks say you NEED a manual cam chain adjuster. Others say you are fine with the stock one. I say you are fine with the stock one, it was updated at some point.

My bike came with a full MRD SSW Pipe, 3X3, and a Jet kit on the stock carb. It was very much faster than stock.

Then I put stage 2 hot cams in and it woke up even more. When I put these on, that is when I first started to notice how much fun it is to rip on the throttle to pull through corners. Not sure if it was the mod, or maybe I just got more used to the bike at this point.

Then I put a Pumper Carb on and it woke up even more again. Though fuel economy dropped from 60+ mpg to ~40 mpg.

Now I am looking at big bore kits....

I put a 16 tooth sprocket on the front. I had to grind the case saver a bit for it to fit, and it took some cramming to get it in past the swing arm slider. Going taller is nice for freeway. I did also add 1 tooth to the rear so it was less of a change.

I dropped in a brighter headlight too. I ride a lot at night. It made a bit of difference.

Invest in one of these fork savers if you're hauling it very often.. Definitely helps save the fork seals and is super cheap.

Yea I agree with this. You could make it work but the reality is that its just not fun for long stretches on the interstate. By adding a windshield and replacing the rear sprocket on my Drz with a 39 tooth I was able to cruise comfortably a little bit faster. But eventually the commute just turned into a chore and I found myself not riding with my full attention, which led to a few sketchy situations with other commuters. Now i'm commuting in the car until I get a new bike, and keeping the drz for what it does best.

If you put the blue/royal in it could destroy the system - it's non-DOT brake fluid, though it may be fine, best to get what's labelled for the clutch system.

This is the stuff you need. Get the bigger bottle that's in the "frequently bought together" because that little one is good for only a couple full bleeds.

That bleeder kit is a lifesaver though, makes it go quick, make sure when you do replace the fluid you back-bleed the system through the clutch slave cylinder.

I just had this happen on my KTM 690. Turn the bike on, but no fuel pump sound when restarting from hot. It would also happen when the bike was sitting in the hot sun. You should get a new fuel pump. I bought the CA cycleworks pump that is superior to the OEM POS. Here it is for your bike My bike runs waaaay better now. Pulls harder and smoother all around, not to mention it doesnt have a problem starting anymore.

Also get this battery tender if you want one, but thats not your problem.

Thanks bro. Yeah I've read on forums people use something called ShineSeal (formerly ZoopSeal) that works great. Might have to pick some up. http://www.shineseal.com/

EDIT: Fuck its $100. Nevermind. Will probably grab this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QWPU9W/

Honestly it sounds the same as my buddies normal length MRD. I usually ride with comply noise cancelling ear tips which help a lot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The tubes will only go in one way. You don't need to balance your tires, make sure you put the tires on the correct direction, there will be an arrow showing the tire's rotation. Make sure you line up the painted dot that's on the tire with the valve stem. Put a small amount of air in the tube when you put it in the tire to help prevent pinching it when installing the other side of the tire. Also put some baby powder on the tube when you install it.

More lube is better when installing and removing tires. If you haven't bought any tools yet you'll want three decent tire spoons, this shit is the best tire mounting lube I have ever used, you can also put some in a squirt bottle with warm water. Seriously, that shit is amazing, but you can also use Windex or some dish soap mixed with water in a squirt bottle. You will also want a valve core remover, or you can use these.

Don't be afraid to inflate the things to like 60psi to seat the bead. Sometimes you have to fill and deflate the tire a few times to seat the bead. Stay away from the bead when it's seating, when it seats it happens fast and it will take your finger off.

Lastly, don't buy this pile of shit compressor, spend the extra money and get a decent piston type.

Progrip 714BK Black 125mm Dual Sport Gel Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WO8MKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZvBwyb7DQBT7P

Amazing and low cost grips. I put them on all of my bikes. I have them on my DRZ!

Acerbis Supermoto Front Fender - Black 2040390001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MQ6L0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MmFlDbA9N2S07

This is the front fender I run now and I think most people do, it’s a direct fit for my WR250X.

As for your tires, they might be brand new but they also might not be the Grippiest tires for street. I’m not saying that the tires are the problem either, it very well could be that you aren’t used to leaning over that far yet. Which is fine, it’ll all come in due time, just a matter of seat time.

Wrapped my 701 header with the Design Engineering Exhaust Wrap

Did it mainly for looks and to keep my boots from melting. Should help with heat, even more so after I get my Arrow Can...

New bike in a can

http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-665854-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B0030Q259U

You should get some of this stuff to put on the blue side fairings
http://www.amazon.com/White-3M-DI-NOC-Carbon-CA-419/dp/B005HXA15Y

Motorcycle Fork Light Strips IMISO 2 x 15 LED Turn Signals/Running/Brake/License Plate Lights - IP65 Waterproof Universal Lights Strip Kit for Harley Motorbike (TWO PACKS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWVNJ9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.33DDb0WA57V4

Here is what I did. I wanted everything low profile because I still dual sport it.

http://imgur.com/nDLaSsu

http://imgur.com/vnPgYHn

http://imgur.com/Fdvzkjv

If you don't want to drill into the fender you can get a universal plate kit with turn signal mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/Targa-Aluminum-License-Signal-Mounts/dp/B002ERFB6U