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Hey! I can relate exactly to where your'e coming from. I, some years ago, decided I wanted to get into building synths. I ended up getting a job at a pedal company and have spent more time learning to build and repair pedals than synths. I don't work there anymore, but it gave me a lot of perspective into the field as we also made euro-rack modules.

First up: I don't want to scare you off from this, but just want to give you a realistic perspective so that you go into this knowing what you are getting into. Making synths is hard and it's expensive. As far as electronic projects go, making a synthesizer is up there on the list. I've repaired powerplant turbine controller circuitboards that were simpler than some of the synths I've owned. This isn't to say, "don't do it!" but, expect to learn a lot of fundamental and intermediate stuff before you ever have something like a fully-featured synth that you built in your hands.

It's also expensive. A cheap synth prototype is going to cost a couple hundred bucks, easy, while a more fully-featured prototype could cost into the thousands to produce, and that's just to build one working prototype. If you want to make a run of products you're going to need money up front, and not a small amount. So, just be prepared for that inevitability.

One final note is that my perspective is broad (digital and analog) but is rooted in analog electronics because that's where I started. This isn't the only path you can take to get to where you want to go but honestly in my opinion, even if you're going to go mostly digital later, you need to understand analog.

If you have never messed with electronics much before I highly recommend the Make: Electronics book. I'm a hands-on person and this was the most effective book I found that let me study electronics fundamentals the way I wanted to; by making stuff! No matter which direction you go on (digital, analog, hybrid, DSP, SID, etc) you're going to want to know how to pick the right resistor, or how to pop an LED into a circuit, and this book will teach you that.

Solid follow-up books from there are Make: More Electronics, Practical Electronics for Inventors, How To Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic, and The Art of Electronics. All of these books are good books that touch on different concepts you will find useful, so I encourage you to look through them and decide for yourself which of these interests you.

Around this same time, I'd encourage you to start getting into kits. Honestly, before you build anything synth, I'm going to recommend you build some pedals. Effects pedals are fun and rewarding to build without being too hard. Start with a distortion circuit and work your way up from there. Once you can build a delay pedal without freaking out, move on to euro-rack kits, or other synth kits. While you're building these kits, don't just build them, play with the circuits! Try swapping components where you think you can, or adding features. One of my first kits was a distortion pedal with a single knob, but by the time I was done tweaking on it it had five knobs and two toggle switches!

Once you're feeling somewhat comfortable with electronics, then you can dive into the holy grail of analog synth design: Make: Analog Synthesizers this amazing book was written by the brilliant Ray Wilson who recently passed away. His life's goal was to bring the art of building analog synths into the hands of anyone who wanted to learn, and there is no better place to receive his great wisdom than this book. You should also check out his website Music From Outer Space along the way, but the book covers so much more than his website.

If you make through most or all of those resources you are going to be well-equipped to take on a career in synth-building! I'm personally still on that last step (trying to find the time to tackle Make: Analog Synthesizers) but hope within the next year or two to get that under my belt and start diving in deep myself. It's been a fun journey of learning and discovery and I wouldn't trade the skills I've gained in electronics for much.

Hope this helps, good luck!

Lol we should get coffee, I'm like the opposite-- ok with hardware synthesis but me trying to understand microcontrollers is comical.

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Anyway I exported one of my earlier folders from when I was first reading and learning to HTML, its pretty disorganized but is a ton of random builds and info. Heres the html! https://file.io/DxE4uG ( if thats not working try https://gofile.io/?c=R3nHUN )

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I'm a noob myself, but I recommend breadboarding and aiming for guitar pedals and effect stuff before jumping into other stuff. stuff like distortion is easy to make while tuned oscilators are... well, simple, but a lot of moving parts. There are a lot of cool youtube channels that have tutorials, one well known one (while a bit hectic) is sam at look mum no computer. For general hardware electronic understanding with some entertainment value I also like Electroboom's channel, and Diysynthguy is another good one to find cool kits through

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If you are in the US, good sites to buy kits from are synthcube and modularaddict. outside of the US thonk is great and a lot of the synth companies in DIY modular are in europe so you can buy direct too, like from befaco.

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Here are a good read on the topic too:

https://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Electronic-Music-Hardware-Hacking/dp/0415998735/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537984669&sr=8-1&keywords=hardware+electronic+music+book

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if you live in seattle, lets get a beer! Because I've been working with microcontrollers lately and it makes me want to blow my brains out.

I don't know if it is worth it to you to buy a big keyboard case but this is what I do. I have a very large keyboard case that I have my gear set up in. All the connections are set up and the wires are held down with velcro. I only have to hook up one piece of gear and I have all the cables labeled very clearly so any gear savy person could set my gear up for me. Live setup requires zero thinking. I can have everything set up and ready in less than five min. All I need is power and two lines out to the house.

If you can't go the giant coffin setup route then go with OCD labeling of all the things. To be rock solid fail proof have 2 of every cable you need. Both ends of every cable should be labeled as to what they plug into with a matching label on the device that the cable gets plugged into. Just match up the labels. Also have your power supply sorted before hand. Get a really nice power strip and secure all of your wall warts to it with tape or velcro straps. Label and wrap each power cable coming off of it so you can quickly identify what everything plugs into. Color coded tape is great for this but that might be overkill. I just use a label printer.

Then practice setting up your gear a few times. Tear your setup down and put everything out in a hallway. Turn all the lights off in your room and set up all your gear with just a flashlight in your teeth. Anything that confuses you for even a second needs to be streamlined, labeled better or made easier in whatever way necessary. Basically you need to be able to set up your gear in the dark while you are drunk and high. It takes a little prep work but it makes things so easy once you get up on stage.

Edit: These velcro straps are the best thing ever.

This is a great book which goes in depth with the tools and approach needed, along with the main circuits in every modular setup/ synth. It comes from this site which has tons and tons of circuits. They are not really beginner stuff but filled with inspiration and is great to go back to once you have some experience and components to use.

Book: https://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Ray-Wilson/dp/1449345220/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367955744&sr=8-1&keywords=make+analog+synthesizers

Site: http://musicfromouterspace.com/

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Here is a good blog to read through and watch the videos for some basic circuitry. Some really interesting stuff here! There are 12 posts on different things. He is quite knowledgeable indeed...

https://hackaday.com/2015/02/04/logic-noise-sweet-sweet-oscillator-sounds/

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And if you really want to learn about electronics in depth (or any other field) check out https://www.khanacademy.org/ which offers lessons for free.

I've wanted a Juno 106 ever since I tried one out a few years ago. It was faulty, but still fun, this one is perfect, so even more fun! After purchasing it I realised that I would no longer have space for my Boog and my Minilogue, so I looked everywhere for stands. I tried the Adam Hall laptop stands and the Pyle PLPTS25, but they didn't fit below the Juno. Then, I found the RockJam laptop stands, and they're just perfect. You can assemble them in so many ways to match your needs: with or without table clamps, with or without width extenders (two increments), supports facing inward or outward (changes width), different heights, etc. And they're really cheap as well, so I can safely recommend them. The only downside is that you need to buy some protectors between the stand and the synth if you really want to avoid scratching (not a huge issue for me).

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Edit: added links to the stands mentioned

Nice work! I’d recommend an Atari Punk Console next if you want a noise box that can accept CV.

Alternatively take a look at CMOS noise makers, there’s a nice hex inverter chip that will give you 6 square wave oscillators. These types of CMOS/Logic devices are often called Lunettas.

If you want to step up do LMNC’s CEM3340 VCO’s. They work great, I just built 3. Doing his filter and envelope next.

Lastly, shell out the money for the 2nd edition of Nic Collins excellent book Handmade Electronic Music.

https://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Electronic-Music-Hardware-Hacking/dp/0415998735

Yes, it’s worth the money. Especially if you’re coming in to this with zero knowledge of electronics. This book will show you how to do the CMOS stuff, circuit bend, make a 10 step sequencer, plus all kinds of rad “experimental” stuff. It’s money well spent.

I'm cheap and super amateur, so I just run to a mixer and then go out with this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI

It all depends on your budget and what you want to do. If you're a pro, you use protools and buy the $$$$$ system with all the good stuff.

Do you really need to have everything on separate tracks in your DAW to mix? I'm not making records, so I don't see the point. If I ever became popular and people liked my stuff, then I'd upgrade to the nice Mac setup, ProTools, super high quality preamps, etc. Until then, I just go cheap and work on making cool songs.

I just have hardware effects/compressor/EQ, so I don't need all the separate tracks. But I'm unusual like that.

Unfortunately there isn't really anything out there that solves this problem. (I wish Jaspers would make a tabletop stand).


The most obvious solution is to replace part of the desk with a jaspers stand, or a double/triple tier keyboard stand.


Like you mentioned in your post, it is possible to use two (or more) of those laptop/dj stands placed next to each other to support a larger keyboard. I have used these and they are pretty stable Laptop stand

You can buy/build a shelf and use something like Ikea "Capita" legs to create a second tier. And use the Ikea "Brada" laptop things to angle stuff better.

You could try to convert more of your equipment into rack mountable format (though this is obviously not always a viable solution)

Sure thing! I use a usb-c hub out of the the op-z and then a usb1 to midi cable and send that out to the in of a 4 way midi splitter, and connect all the devices to that. The op-1 needs a midi usb converter, I’m using hobbytronics which works great. I then just set the proper channels (op-z sends out ch 1 kick, ch 2 snare, etc) on the devices. Also, make sure you have the midi out enabled for the OP-Z via the iOS app.

AUKEY USB C Hub with SD/TF Card Reader + 3 USB 3.0 Ports, USB C Adapter Ultra Slim for MacBook Pro 2017/2016, Huawei MateBook, Chromebook Pixel and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772THNWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HPozCb81V0P12

USB IN-OUT MIDI Cable Converter, LiDiVi Professional Piano Keyboard to PC/Laptop/Mac MIDI Adapter Cord for Home Music Studio - 6.5Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KLC884/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BOozCbXB72KQQ

MIDI Solutions Quadra 4-Output MIDI Thru Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002GH8X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DQozCbBD448P5

http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/usb-midi-converter

Hope that helps. Let me know of any other questions.

By the way if you have a keystep Pro, it works great w op-z for Midi and clock I/O with one usb mini - usb c cable. And power! Portable!

LOL! The dirty secret?

I have two cats, brothers, Mario and Luigi. Luigi's mellow, never a problem. Mario likes to chew on things, the more expensive and less replaceable, the better. After the second mouse and a set of reference headphones lost, I'm now religious about neatly cabling everything lest he get the idea that my patch cables (or the USB ones for that matter) are there for his amusement.


Velcro ties are your friends, best thing ever. I learned to like them about 20 years ago on my first civilian job post military, wiring up computer labs in schools - they're absolutely fantastic and so cheap you'll be embarrassed you don't already have some. I get mine from Amazon 100 at a time for about $10.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The RockBand controller for Nintendo is a very good midi keyboard.
It's $30, too. Velocity sensitive keys with a ribbon for mod and pitch, and octave shift buttons. The keys feels better then some syths. Of course it's not weighted keys but they are good.
I never thought I would wear it like a keytar, but actually I've been putting it around my neck, and as I walk around my studio playing other keyboards it's great to be able to reach down and add some more notes to the mix wherever I'm standing (needs a longer midi cable for this, but still).
http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Band-Wireless-Keyboard-Xbox-360/dp/B003RS19N4

I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.

Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).

And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.

You want a midi interface of some sort. This can range from a small box with multiple in/out ports, or a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/iConnectivity-mio-1-out-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00CO5IRSG/

The Mio is the cheapest option I'd recommend; I recently heard from someone else that they tried a bunch of cheaper chinese conversion cables before the Mio, and none of them worked.

Once connected, you go to Options>Midi in FL Studio, and the midi interface will appear as a device there. So you select it and assign it a port number (let's say port #1 for these purposes). Then in your instruments panel, you click click then select insert>midi>Midi Out. Then on the Midi Out, you change the port number to match the desire device (i.e. port #1) and then whenever you select the midi out "instrument" your keyboard will play the Volca as if it's a plugin in FL.

Granted, you won't hear your Volca in the DAW's audio stream on your computer unless it's connected via an audio interface. But if you have headphones or speakers plugged into the Volca's audio/headphone out, you can still play and hear it that way.

I recommend getting a dedicated 1/8" Stereo to 1/4" Mono or dual 1/4" stereo cable. If you're running from the stereo main 1/8" out on the Boutique to a single 1/4" mono in its good to convert from stereo to mono (more details: http://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/25577/stereo-and-mono-cables-and-jacks-what-happens-when-you-cross-them ). And, I was using an adapter for a while myself, on the end of a normal instrument cable, so there was this big relatively heavy thing hanging off a single 1/8" jack (on a $400 box) that I began to get paranoid about breaking. Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F with its nicely flexible cable and small, light 1/8" jack and never worry about that again.

I used the older version of this for a while, and while it's not the greatest sound quality, it works and isn't too much money. It has the ability to plug into your computer so you can record.

No experience with this one, but it has decent reviews, is cheap, and would work for what you need with a little room to expand but no USB implementation.

And this is the one I'm currently using and really like. A lot of room to expand here. It has built in effects, but I don't think they sound very good. No USB either, but it's pretty cheap for what you're getting.

Take a look at the inputs on whichever one you decide on, as they may required some adapters (1/8" Stereo to 1/4" dual mono, etc...) to work with your setup. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I can’t vouch for this but I might try it if I were you. Fairly cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Midiplus-USB-MIDI-Host-midiplus/dp/B074NGTGHN

I owned the Kenton midi host which is about $100 on the used market but it worked well and was simple.

There are a few other options like retrokits makes one I think. Currently I have an iconnectmidi 4 which does the host thing and is great for routing midi to and fro.

Y-splitters often work fine. A lot of people will tell you that's not how you're supposed to use them, and they are right. However, in my understanding, (nearly?) all modern equipment is properly protected. I actually emailed both Korg and Novation about using a Y-splitter with my two synths, and they both said it was fine.

Korg did kindly point out that Behringer makes cheap mixers, starting at $25 :)

I'm just getting into the game and am looking to pick up a good inexpensive audio interface, how does this look? I know most people here recommend the focus rite ones, but this one has pretty good reviews and is less than half the price.

Thanks! I'll keep this one in mind. Seems like I'd still need a solution for sending the MIDI Clock to the Organelle (which only has USB ports), but I think I may have found the solution:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JLU26W/?coliid=I2V4VWF1T1AZXO&colid=2NW1QM8CI6ZYC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This lil guy acts as an interface to send MIDI In to (or run MIDI Out of) a computer, which the Organelle is.

Can anyone smarter than me confirm that it would work with the Organelle's on-board Linux-based computer?

Yeah, I personally run mine into a mono line on my Xenyx 802 or through the aux in on one of my logues for the same reason. My stereo inputs are balanced or unbalanced so I hadn't ran into the out of phase signal you mention but the only noticeable benefit of running into the stereo input for me is that it improves the texture of the chorus effect just a little bit (but a noticeable little bit nonetheless) due to what ever specific trick it is that they do on that that bounces it to the two parts of the dual mono at different rates. I have more important stuff to feed into those channels considering they have the compressor and pre-gain. I do have one of these on my shopping list though:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2/140-0985239-6023633?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005HGM1D6&pd_rd_r=DSHSSM99C28JFW1SW1V7&pd_rd_w=YCfSd&pd_rd_wg=4aJQD&psc=1&refRID=DSHSSM99C28JFW1SW1V7

Once I get that every single hole on my mixer will have something plugged into it and it will be time to chill on buying new stuff for a while until I upgrade that.

No, you would need to connect your volca keys' 5 pin DIN MIDI in port to a 5 pin DIN MIDI out port on the computer. If your computer doesn't already have MIDI outputs on an audio interface, you could use something like this . Or you might want to invest in a USB audio interface with MIDI ports since you'll want one eventually anyway.

Then you would need to connect a USB type B cable (it's not a printer cable, at least not what most people think of when you say "printer cable," and calling it one is only going to cause confusion) from your MIDI controller to a USB port on the computer.

Then you would need to run MIDI software on the computer (LMMS is free if you don't already have a DAW that can do this, or you could probably use MIDI-OX if you don't want to run a full DAW) to route the MIDI from the USB MIDI input (your controller) to the DIN MIDI output.

I'm sure it feel like people are giving you a hard time over the terminology but it's important to call things by their proper names, especially in this case where you're using really ambiguous language that makes it sound like you want something very different from what you actually need.

For more information about this build, here's an imgur album I did showing the build process

To try and answer all the questions in this thread:

• The faceplates and PCBs were sourced from the MFOS site, while the components and hardware were sourced from various locations such as mouser and taydaelectronics.
  
• This project completely consumed my attention, and I slammed it out in just under two months (from the time I ordered the parts). That was every spare night and weekend I could manage.
  
• Having been my first venture into an electronics project, I made many purchasing mistakes, which I learned valuable lessons from. All in all this project cost me around $900~.
  
• This was not easy, and I had some much appreciated consulting help from electronics engineering friends to get me through a couple of obstacles. Also, I read this book cover-to-cover before picking up a soldering iron, which I believe was paramount to my success (Ray Wilson's beginner guide to DIY synths).

I'm pretty sure any USB only MIDI controller will require a USB host of some sort. A computer acts as a USB host which is why you are able to use the USB keyboard with softsynths. I'm not familiar with any desktop synths that act as a USB host.

Pretty sure your three options will be (1) get a USB host like one of these or (2) get a keyboard with MIDI out like one of these or (3) plug both the KARP and keyboard into your computer at the same time.

EDIT: Note - if you go the USB host route make sure it's powered. I have one of these MIDI interfaces and it would not work in your situation since it gets it's power from USB and your USB keyboard provides no power.

Rockband Keytar it has a dedicated midi out, mod/pitch bend on a touch strip, and while the keys aren't great, they are surprisingly good for $25. As a bonus it comes with a strap and you literally become Chick Corea when you put it on.

A small company called Maker Hart sells a small mixer like this. I bought one for my Volcas and Tb03 and its pretty great. https://www.amazon.com/LOOP-MIXER-Portable-Channels-Stereo/dp/B01M68UK38

http://amzn.com/B00CO5IRSG This or any iConnectivity one would be my recommendation because I've used a lot of this brand and it's always great, but that Tbox thing looks pretty awesome too!
Edit: pasted wrong link first.

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

https://www.operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/2319/op-1-noise-fix

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

How cheap is super cheap? The best I can find is a four-way splitter for $50: http://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395085972&sr=8-1&keywords=midi+thru

hey op, double check the following

firstly, you'll need to turn internal memory protect off and allow patches to be tx'd to dx7. you will have to turn this off every time you turn on the dx7 if you want to tx patches- this is for protecting your stuff in case something is accidentally transmitted

press edit (green button)
-press press button 14 (utility/tune)
arrow over to int (internal) and press data entry no/off (crt is for cartridge just fyi)

following two steps we set the midi config

-press button 31 (midi pg1)
trans and rec channels set to 1, omni on

-press button 32 (midi pg2)
device #1, receive block 1-32

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this is what i posted to a guy asking a similar question
https://www.reddit.com/r/synthesizers/comments/84h9bu/how_do_i_reset_my_yamaha_dx7_to_factory_settings/

I have 4 dx7s, 3 mk1s and a iifd. you will need to get a usb midi interface or you will have to get a cartridge. the cartridges are pointless and would actually cost more than the interface itself. the reason dx7s have carts/floppies is because tx/rx via computer was not very feasible back in the day (this was 1983) and it was simply easier/cheaper to buy a preloaded cart than the computer, interface, etc. now anyone can buy a cheap usb interface and have access to a million patches freely available on the web. this is the interface i bought and it works perfectly on win10 x64 all plug and play, no drivers required https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-Tbox2X2-USB-MIDI-Interfaces/dp/B00WU6F4M6

then you need to get midiox and get the factory roms/carts on this page http://bobbyblues.recup.ch/yamaha_dx7/dx7_patches.html

I'm using this small mixer for the Volcas and random small gear:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KGYAYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408515182&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

It's probably not a the best mixer but it sounds good enough to me.

To get a stereo sound from it you need this $3 adapter as well http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DBTAZ4/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

You would then also need at least three 3.5mm stereo male to 3.5mm stereo male cables to connect stuff to it, as well as 3-5 of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1408515974&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40

I use a "Thru box" similar to this.

http://www.midisolutions.com/prodthr.htm

I know the MS-20 Mini is hardwired for MIDI channel 1. I don't know about the Volca's midi implementation, but as long as you can change the MIDI channel on the Volca something like that would work.

EDIT: Here is a nice one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419974222&sr=8-1&keywords=MIDI+thru+box

I don't know if you're interested, but you can DIY a simple line input mixer for about $10.. maybe $20 if you wanted volume pots. There's probably a few tutorials online, if not this book has a great section;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Handmade-Electronic-Music-Hardware-Hacking/dp/0415998735/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1412272132&sr=1-2&keywords=circuit+bending

> I also have one and they're the best of the three boutiques imo.

i agree, though i'm close to getting a jp-08 to complement it.

> You will just need an adapter 1/4" female to 1/8" male, you can get these just about any electrical retailer nowadays.

it would be recommended to get a stereo to mono summing connector though, since the ju-06 (all boutiques) output stereo signals. like this.

I'd recommend avoiding the cheap, no-name ones like this. Sometimes they just don't work at all, or sometimes they'll work for certain things (note-on) but not others (SysEx dumps, sequencer data, etc.). I actually had one that I connected to one of my synths, and it sent a bunch of garbled MIDI data that caused me to lose some patches.

If you can afford it, I'd recommend something like the $35 iConnectivity mio. I've had 3 different iConnectivity interfaces, and all have been rock solid and dependable. This doesn't require any drivers, whereas I think the equivalent cables by Yamaha, Roland, M-Audio do.

Another solution might be to go from your Roland A-800 MIDI Out to a MIDI Solutions 4-output MIDI Thru Box. (https://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4)

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You can then route one MIDI Cable to the Reface and one to the Microsampler.

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Set the Reface to respond to MIDI Channel 1, and Microsampler to MIDI Channel 2.


You can then change the transmit channel between 1 and 2 on the Roland controller, or better yet (now that I'm looking at the A-Pro manual), change control maps between the two.

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Another option would be to program a split control map on the A-800 to use both devices - depending on the notes you need to play during a given song.

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That might be better, I have a USB to MIDI in that price range and it does MIDI and Sysex stuff just fine. I have the first one you listed as well and it's hot garbage.

I just saw this for basically the same price you get two inputs and outputs: http://www.amazon.com/midiplus-Tbox2X2-USB-MIDI-Interfaces/dp/B00WU6F4M6/

You would have to get MIDI cables on top of this, but it's more versatile and probably better quality overall.

The midiplus USB MIDI Host is less expensive. Note, I don't have any first experience with it.

USB requires a host and, for whatever reasons, most synths don't come with USB host ports.

I don't know of a DIY solution that wouldn't need its own power. AFAIK a USB host can power a USB device, but not the other way around.

A R-Pi solution would be an interesting project anyway.

In the video, he's running the OP-1 into a TC Hall of Fame Reverb using a cable like this.

Then likely into an audio interface (off-camera) -> computer. It's also possible he's going into another recording source, like a Zoom Handy Recorder. Same basic idea.

I use this laptop stand when I need a second row.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1ZB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mjzSBbWJ9CH1F

It fits a Digitakt perfectly. Anything smaller and you’ll need a book or board to bridge the gap. It also makes my SH-101 look like it’s floating.

You could use an iOS device like an iPhone or an iPad as a sound engine. You'll need the Apple USB adapter, and use a synth app that supports MIDI. If your keyboard has the normal MIDI DIN connector, you can get a USB->Midi adapter like this Roland.

While those cables do work they're known to be somewhat troublesome. This thing is pretty cool and built like a tank. Also has 2 midi ins and outs for like $30. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WU6F4M6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483288295&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=midi+box&dpPl=1&dpID=41dnr3%2BfGdL&ref=plSrch

Edit: or this which has 4ins and outs for 50.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VHL5HOA/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B00WU6F4M6_b

Just passing on the recommendation I got here a long time ago, which is: [Ray Wilson's Make: Analog Synthesizers] (https://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Electronic-Synth-DIY/dp/1449345220) A really chill / good read but also really good to have nearby as technical reference.

Unfortunately, the cheap USB-to-MIDI converters like that one have issues with stuck notes on the Mother-32. I have an iConnectMIDI2+ that works great with my Mother-32. I haven't tried the mio, but since it's from iConnectivity, it is probably better than the cheap adapters.

tyfogob is correct, no computer needed for most mixers.

The cheapest and easiest mixer I know of is the Behringer Micromix but it only controls volume.

For a little more you can get a mixer with gain, pan, aux in, and other features. I have an Alto mixer that I got used for cheap at a Guitar Center.

It looks like you're an amazon prime shopper. I got these just the other day. $10 for 100. Good size, and enough of them to spare.

You could get a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm TRS stereo adapter (something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6) and record using the microphone port on your computer but you will probably have issues with latency and perhaps audio quality as well..but it would work in a pinch and might be good enough for what you want.

I've enjoyed this one as a start. Interested to see any other suggestions you get: https://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Electronic-Synth-DIY/dp/1449345220

First off, don't play around with splitters. You want to get a mixer. Something simple to start with like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Alto-Professional-ZMX862-6-Channel-Channel/dp/B004TM323C/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1485432445&sr=1-1&keywords=Alto+Professional

Then to get everything synced-up, you want to use a MIDI Quadra Thru:
https://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1485432544&sr=1-1&keywords=quadra+thru

Then you will just need to get some MIDI cables and then 1/4" to 1/4" audio cables for the Monologue and 1/8" to 1/4" audio cables for your Volca Beats and Monotron as well as one to go from the mixer to your speakers (or you can use headphones by plugging into the mixer).

For syncing everything you would use a MIDI cable out from the Monologue, to the MIDI In of the MIDI Quadra Thru box. Then connect a MIDI cable to one of the MIDI Thru's to the MIDI In to each of your other devices. Now I don't own the Monologue, Volca Beats or Monotron, so there may be another way...but it should work fine the way I described.

The Velcro cable ties I ordered from Amazon were the best music related purchase I made in 2014.

https://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Ray-Wilson/dp/1449345220/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367955744&sr=8-1&keywords=make+analog+synthesizers

I did not build my own synth, but I really enjoyed reading this book about how to do it. There's a lot to it.

i normally just use one of these for anything with a 3.5mm stereo output and only plug in the left side to my interface
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C

a simple 3.5 to 1/4 mono adapter can be used for any mono eurorack output which are even cheaper . this way you can still use a normal mixer / interface .

if you specifically desire the type of mixer you're asking for i'll let others try to be more helpful

1. People discourage synth use in a guitar amp due to bass frequencies, a bass amp is often suggested in lieu of guitar amp.
   
   
2. you'll need a 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. But not just any adapter, you'd want one that splits a stereo signal into two mono L/R signals.
   
   So something like this cable but I'd recommend an all female version to allow you to adjust the lenghts of each end.

Absolutely gorgeous device and a perfect fit but abit out of my rang right now.

Probably going to go with a Loop Mixer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M68UK38/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3QY80NORGXT27&psc=1

I’m not sure if the effects are stereo, but if you don’t care about going mono, you can use one of these: Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MWqIAbCJBXKEC

Edit: But yes, a 3.5 mm (1/8th) TRS to dual 1/4 TS Y cable would work. Just don’t forget to hard pan each of the channels on the recorder.

The Mackie ProFX8 would probably get you what you want.

The Hosa cables on Amazon are cheap and work fine. You would need a headphone to TS cable for each of the volcas. Like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426449833&sr=8-1&keywords=headphone+to+TS+cable&pi=AC_SX200_QL40.
You might not need a stereo channel for each as I don know how each Volca put out sound. Are left and right exactly the same?

The absolute cheapest setup that I can think of to record the Krome would be a Behringer UCA202 audio interface and Reaper for a DAW. Get a dual 1/4" to RCA cable - something like this and you should be in business. 1/4 end to the keyboard, RCAs to the interface. USB for MIDI (to record notes - the cable mentioned in a comment above will do nicely). Should give you a pretty simple way to record the keyboard, although Reaper can be a bit confusing to set up. That said, it's cheap, has an unrestricted free trial, and is extremely powerful.

Now, this won't give you much in the way of room to grow if you decide to start a collection, but it should get the job done.

The volcas have built in speakers, so you'll be able to play and hear both at the same time with no extra equipment! But, if you need a cheap mixer to have both go into one set of headphones (if you have roommates who maybe don't want to have to listen in as you slowly learn new instruments), a lot of people are suggesting the Basil Dude, which is great. An even cheaper option is the Behringer Micromix, though it's not battery powered, and all the ins/outs are 1/4 inch mono, so you'll need to grab some of these for the inputs and one of these for the output. But, the cost of all that is still less than half of the cost of a Dude.

There's a few books you can check out (I stumbled onto most of these in my local community college library, and yes, some of these are really expensive). I can suggest more if you like


http://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Ray-Wilson/dp/1449345220/

http://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Electronic-Music-Hardware-Hacking/dp/0415998735/

http://www.amazon.com/Theory-Technique-Electronic-Music/dp/9812700773/

https://www.amazon.com/Designing-Sound-Press-Andy-Farnell/dp/0262014416

------------

and some subs: /r/diySynth, /r/SynthDiy, /r/modular

Here's one that cheaper, 5 STEREO channels instead of mono, great reviews, and a USB out!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M68UK38/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QY80NORGXT27

not sure if you're looking for something that can hold all three at once or not, but I use this stand. it holds one item at varying heights and is fairly solid. to give you an idea of what it can support, I've used them for cdjs, mixers (a behringer 4000 and a Mackie pro12), an mpc 1000, a 13" MacBook pro, and now currently a dsi mopho x4.

Those are interesting, I usually use the velcro ones, like these: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537897763&

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
***
This bot is supported by the referral link above. If you wish to not use a referral link, you may use this link instead.

Well as I figure the OT has basic amp jack for audio inputs (1/4”). HOSA makes most all combinations you can think of for good price. Check the link below, assuming the record player has RCA outputs, you can just plug directly from the record player to the OT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O17/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523832352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+to+1%2F4+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41WNUsmewNL&ref=plSrch

+1 for gaffa tape and a sharpie, and to pass on another tip that I got from this forum, I'd recommend the Velcro cable ties. Used them myself and they really tidied up my desk. These ones look like the ones I got - https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6

I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.

Get one of these. Super cheap and they do wonders for this kinda setup. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1ZB8/

> The Bastl Dude seems cool for the little machines

People also recommend Maker Hart Loop mixer: https://www.amazon.com/LOOP-MIXER-Portable-Channels-Stereo/dp/B01M68UK38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498909040&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=audio+mixer&psc=1

It might be that you don't have the proper cable, and you probably just aren't getting the full signal from the Volca into the 2i2.
The volca has a 3.5mm stereo mini jack for use with headphones. The 2i2 has two line inputs. The best kind of cable to get for this situation:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C

They make them in various lengths, so search around if you need a longer one. Guitar center usually has these in store if you have one nearby.

Basically, you need to split a TRS stereo signal into two unbalanced mono signals (TS * 2), as the 2i2 does not accept stereo inputs (pretty standard on audio interfaces). Then, in your DAW, you can track each channel independently, or as a single stereo track.

This looks to be perfect for you though it's roughly 3 times more expensive.
LOOP MIXER - Portable Audio Mixer with 5 Channels, 5 X 3.5mm Stereo / 10 X Mono Inputs & 3 Outs

I'm not seeing a lot you can do, but taking up the slack on the wires would help. I use twist-ties and velcro straps to bunch up the excess wire.

Putting some of it on stands would let you tuck wires underneath too. I have my keystep on a laptop stand for example.

LOOP MIXER - Portable Audio Mixer with 5 Channels, 5 X 3.5mm Stereo / 10 X Mono Inputs & 3 Outs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M68UK38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0HbhAbP4VM96A

This one has 3.5mm jacks, so no adapters needed.

Enjoy!

One of these takes care of that problem nicely.

For my lower tier I use Bräda laptop stands from Ikea. For my upper tier I support a three foot long shelf from Home Depot on a pair of these laptop stands: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1ZB8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zlJYDbA027Z3Y

I use Velcro to keep things from sliding around

What's nice is that the two tiers have the same angle.

Thanks for the responses! I think I’m gonna go with this Behringer U-Phoria mixer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_almdAbD6HD9CE

Depends on what kind of speaker you're using. Some keyboard combo amps have a couple inputs you could use simultaneously.

In the end though, the answer is: You need a mixer.

Cheapest option that I know is popular among Volca owners is the little Behringer Micromix. Now you get what you pay for, so obviously spending more on a mixer might give you a better experience in the long run, but it's up to you.

You'll need cables and possibly adapters, depending on the outputs on the Boutique. If the only outputs are stereo 3.5mm, you need these:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000068O3C&pd_rd_r=55HMGX38CMXXB230MB8F&pd_rd_w=bM3Az&pd_rd_wg=AGUws&psc=1&refRID=55HMGX38CMXXB230MB8F


Otherwise if they are dual-mono ( you can plug in headphones and hear sound in both ears) you could use the above option, or use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-103-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3E/ref=pd_sim_267_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000068O3E&pd_rd_r=PHAMYHKRGYMTKD8XH8AB&pd_rd_w=hwWsq&pd_rd_wg=wmIz6&psc=1&refRID=PHAMYHKRGYMTKD8XH8AB

Finally if you have 1/4 inch outputs, then you just need 1/4 inch instrument cables.

I use cheap laptop stands for my SH02 and the Ciat-Lonbarde rig. Works well, though that is all played by touch, softly or sequenced externally, so I don't hammer the keys. Might be too much sway then. These are the ones: https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PLPTS25-Laptop-Computer-Stand/dp/B004HJ1ZB8/ref=lp_490625011_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1483780075&sr=1-6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O17/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511607515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1%2F4+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=41WNUsmewNL&ref=plSrch

Would need more details to help further about setup.

Good point, now I am thinking about a midi box that would serve as the interface receiving MIDI clock from the drum machine and sending it to all his synths/devices.

If it doesn't echo or have that setting available, try this out, it is a One in, Four Out midi box

Yeah, shoulda said. I got one of the midi solutions quadra boxes on eBay. amazon link

Ray Wilson from MFOS has written a book that might be helpful.

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/

http://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Ray-Wilson/dp/1449345220/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367955744&sr=8-1&keywords=make+analog+synthesizers

Sell all your unused gear and then buy 100 packs of these cable ties.

Buy a nice desk.

But really, just sell the gear you don't use. Less is more.

If you use Amazon Prime this is under $10 and works well: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

If you want direct USB out you can plug a USB to midiost in (not the kind you use to record midi into a pc) like this

+1 on the velcro. These are what I use, I highly recommend them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E1Y5O6

Would having two sets of these be the right solution? Nord -> KP3 -> monitors

Also, your volcas will NOT work with a simple 1/8'' to 1/4" adapter. You will need a 1/8' - 1/4" stereo TRS cable., which will take up two channels.

Like this: http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/musical-instruments/detail-page/B000068O3C_img1.jpg

This is the best cable for your problem. i use it with all my lil korg boxes. 3.5mm Stereo to TS Mono.
http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D

> Midi USB host

like this one : https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-USB-MIDI-Host-Controller/dp/B074NGTGHN

Midi contains NO audio channels, you might want to watch a midi tutorial on youtube. Midi is a serial cable that transmits midi messages which are not audio.

Your headphone is your sole audio output on this baby, I would obtain this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C

I googled for ya, and your Volca has a stereo chorus effect, so I would definitely go with the cable above.
You don't want to plug a mono 1/8" into that stereo output.

I have a boatload of those headphone to unbalanced 1/4" audio breakouts lying around as it's the usual way I get unbalanced audio from consumer devices with headphone jacks, including phones and tablets, into my live mix, or into my audio inputs on my audio interface. It will hook up to your Scarlett's dual 1/4" TS inputs. Once you have audio coming into your PC, you can record it in your DAW, and then do some EQ, or add effects inside your daw with VSTs, etc.

Is your pedal board set up to accept stereo signals all the way through the chain?

I use an older Pod XT Live and I have stereo in and stereo out and all the effects are digital inside the box. It's a predecessor of modern stuff like Helix.

On my yamaha dx7 I use an old zoom 505 multi fx pedal as my entire FX system. It has grainy effects that sound dated and horrible on my guitar, and somehow sound epic, fat, analog and amazing when I feed in a reedy thin unprocesed lame DX7 patch, and always so low-fi that you can't detect any digital cold 90s character anywhere in it. Even the onboard audio pre-amp in the dx7, not to mention it's low fi 12 bit A/D, is so horribly low fi that you can't possibly hope for much pristine 90s / 2000s era digital cold clarity from it. I call it the Lame FM Patch Suck Remover. It is buffered, and offers a very tiny clean boost when in passthrough mode, and makes my DX7 work and sound better into any audio chain I want to plug it into, especially in bypass, where to compensate for its slight pre-amp effect, I drop my dx7 output volume, and get a much cleaner output from the synth. Buffers are good. Guitarists are all into true bypass, which would suck on a dx7.

Yes, that should work, you'll just need a Dual 1/4" TS to 3.5mm TRS stereo breakout cable like this one, since the Micron has stereo outs, and the U22 has a 3.5mm stereo in. It also has a 1/4" input, but only one, so you'd have to do some weird splitting across the 2 jacks, which would be more complicated for no good reason. That would be more for a mono synth, guitar, bass, microphone etc - any mono signal.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=580AEHGK4P0W2YDPR53B

theres the book from Make as well https://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Ray-Wilson/dp/1449345220

I had this problem. The right and left channels are canceling each other out when you mix them. Get one of these and use two separate channels on your mixer http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404192295&sr=8-5&keywords=1%2F8+inch+stereo+to+1%2F4+inch+mono

EDIT: Just read the second paragraph. You've already solved it. Nothing to see here...

From my understanding, the iTrack dock is just an audio interface designed for iPad. So yes, you would send the output from the Bastl Dude into the input of the iTrack dock to record into the DAW.

You probably know this, but if not: to do this, you'll need a 3.5mm cable with a 1/4 instrument adapter to line in to the iTrack dock, or one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

For gear demos I use one of these to record straight into my iPhone using the CCK.

Behringer UCA202 U-Control Ultra low-latency 2 In/2 Out USB/Audio Interface https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GGtaBbH7WP55F

If I am recording a track then I record the audio into a Zoom H1, then I master it on my Mac before importing the audio into iMovie and attaching it to the video.

You can see/hear how this turns out on my latest video
https://youtu.be/BywKoNRX9wY

So just to be clear, the sound wouldn't be any less full/powerful if an entire channel is cut out? I was thinking I'd just use a couple of these.

This one, from Amazon.
Hosa Cable CMP105 1/8 Inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TS Cable - 5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HJ1ZB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And then I put a few magazines on the bottom if I want to angle it a bit more.

I have a couple of these in my studio: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39932623/#/S49932670

I'm also a big fan of using vertical space. To that end, I have a few of these to angle gear, and a couple of these to elevate things above the desk. At work now, but I'll see if I can add some pics later.

I lift my smaller synths up on these computer stands. They're reasonably solid and let me sneak other equipment underneath.

Make publishes a book called Analog Synthesizers if you want a head start.

I did professional cable management for the past 14 months or so. For me and my team this stuff was the absolute shit:

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Management-Self-Gripping/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474004500&sr=8-5&keywords=velcro

Anytime we would start running low we'd all start hoarding it to ourselves like it was toilet paper after the apocalypse. We also had some techniques like creating a cable sausage where you fold the cable into a sausage, velcro the center, slide the wrap to one side of the sausage then strap another piece to the center and slide that out to the other end of the sausage. Was a handy trick I still use at home.

Handmade Electronic Music: The Art of Hardware Hacking https://www.amazon.com/dp/0415998735/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zFTUAbTT96WFH

This book is incredible, you can start with a 74c14 chip, a capacitor, resistor, 9v battery and audio jack to get a mono pitch.

I bought one of these years ago and I will never sell it. The vibes tone is so nice and glassy, especially when you add a bit of reverb to it.

If you haven't sorted out the output yet grab one of these babies.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=lp_597546_1_9?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1418308444&sr=1-9

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C

You would put left on one channel, right on the next and then pan each accordingly on the mixer. If your sound is being output from a unit with a single stereo jack (like a Roland Boutique, iPad, etc), you would get a 3.5mm to 1/4" TRS cable; example here.

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426449833&sr=8-1&keywords=headphone+to+TS+cable&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

And this.

You need one of these cables.

I bought 12 of these:

Hosa CMP-110 1/4 inch TS to 3.5mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ldebAbEFP38JY

https://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4

You could always set them to different channels and use a thru box to hook them up.

https://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4 or https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M3RH5GI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485900377&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=midi+y+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41GqGSevW2L&ref=plSrch

Another one https://www.amazon.com/MIDI-Solutions-Quadra-4-Output-Thru/dp/B0002GH8X4/

What you need is a MIDI through box. That was the first one that came up in my search, but you could probably find one cheaper than that.

OH that might actually be it!

I had this trash before: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACGMOA6?keywords=midi%20to%20usb&qid=1458419401&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Do you think this one will work? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JLU26W?keywords=midi%20to%20usb&qid=1458419401&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

Can I use one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JLU26W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427237240&sr=1-1&keywords=midi+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41u0k2iIU7L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Try one of these instead.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MX400-BEHRINGER-MICROMIX/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540236668&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Behringer+MicroMix+MX-400

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MX400-Micromix-Noise-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=lp_3816966031_1_6?srs=3816966031&ie=UTF8&qid=1523996945&sr=8-6

Why are you doing this? Are you trying to run the two through one input? Why not just get a line mixer and bypass the minilogue if that's the case. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MicroMIX-MX400-Low-Noise-4-channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ

iPad, 'camera connection kit' & behringer UCA202 works for me

These...

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6

Use these to tie up your cables

Run this in your audio chain for the Minilogue. Simple since it's stereo. The noise will go away.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

The Rock Band 3 keyboard is one of the cheapest controllers with a MIDI Out port.

https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PLPTS25-Laptop-Computer-Stand/dp/B004HJ1ZB8

just some simple laptop stands. if only they made a two tier version.

https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PLPTS25-Laptop-Computer-Stand/dp/B004HJ1ZB8/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480197776&sr=sr-1&keywords=laptop+stand

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1ZB8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_WFmjDbJRCKYKR

Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CMP110

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

There's also these from more reliable manufacturers; seem to be same price.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Roland-UM-ONE-mk2-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00967UN50/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491346657&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+midi+interface

https://www.amazon.co.uk/iConnectivity-midi-mio-iconnectivity-Mio/dp/B00CO5IRSG

iPad + UMC404HD + Korg nanokontrol2 + AUM and you'll be all set. Replace the UMC404HD & nanokontrol with any class compliant usb audio interface of your choice and the nanokontrol with any midicontroler of your choice. These are just inexpensive options.

Or just buy a full fledged mixer. There are too many options to list.

I have a few options and all affordable... which would you suggest?
Roland UM-One

https://www.amazon.ca/MIDI-4x4-USB-interface/dp/B00VHL5HOA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=usb+midi+interface&qid=1551027089&s=gateway&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.ca/midiplus-Tbox2X2-USB-MIDI-Interfaces/dp/B00WU6F4M6/ref=pd_sbs_267_1/141-9437676-7604764?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00WU6F4M6&pd_rd_r=76db1bf3-3854-11e9-9e49-b9c377d1057c&pd_rd_w=YCPMw&pd_rd_wg=xTa80&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=X7MYJ6WMEJKDPWTFPDWK&psc=1&refRID=X7MYJ6WMEJKDPWTFPDWK

Get a Tbox( I have this one https://www.amazon.com/midiplus-Tbox2X2-USB-MIDI-Interfaces/dp/B00WU6F4M6)

connect it to the PC via USB, connect your keyboard to the PC and your daw, send midi data from DAW to Tbox and connect that data to your synth via regular midi cable. Plug synth output into interface, voila!

How about $55?

midiplus USB MIDI Host) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074NGTGHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hv6IDbCN5MKVP

You can use a USB MIDI Host such as this or this, both which have USB ports for the P115 and 5-pon MIDI Outs for the MX49.

Your other option is to plug the P115 to a PC/laptop, and have a usb midi interface for your PC, then midi out to the MX49

It's a lunetta synth. The oscillators are simple CMOS chip opamp ocsillators that run off of DC. Look up the Hex Schmitt Trigger circuit. You can load tons of these into whatever housing you make for awesome noise drone synth stuff. Nic Collins from Make Magezine compiled a simplified workbook on how to approach making circuits similar to these. Here ya go.

I also assume this guy used a fuck ton of timer chips in weird ways to mangle the sound.

All the top row stands are this one. I cut up some styrofoam and taped it to the stand in order to loft the Boog above the Keystep.

Huh. Well, butter my grits -- that one is indeed made only for mic and instrument level sources. Presonus actually suggests that line level sources could damage it:

https://support.presonus.com/hc/en-us/articles/210044713-Can-I-connect-a-line-level-source-to-my-AudioBox-USB-or-22VSL-

I'm also a 0-coast user, and I'm using this Behringer, which is relatively cheap and works fine (there's also a smaller two-input version):

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM

Any recommended hardware for splitting the MIDI out of the Octatrack to three hardware synths with 5-pin MIDI inputs (Mother 32, Microbrute, and Volca Bass). This is all I've found, and am wondering if I'm missing something.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002GH8X4

You could start with this book: https://www.amazon.com/Make-Analog-Synthesizers-Electronic-Synth-DIY/dp/1449345220

It's written by Ray Wilson, who is the guy behind Music From Outer Space, where you will find tons of synths and module circuit, parts, pcb.

The book explains all the wizardry behind the Noise Toaster, and guide you through the build.

​

Or you can start with eurorack, there is tons of DIY modules, you can have complete kit, so you "just" need to solder the parts, or you can buy a pcb and source the parts yourself. For eurorack, you will find "through hole" modules, aka classic and "big" components, or SMD, which are tiny component, usually made to be soldered by robots. You might want to avoid SMD as a first build if you don't have a lot of soldering experience (and tools).

​

Use one of these 1/8" mono to 1/4" mono. MS20 Main Output to 1/4" input on the Behringer. Skip using the headphone jack. It does have a small amount of amperage to drive headphones and it's not the best way to get audio to a line level input.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3D/

For what it's worth, I haven't had such an issue with my 0-Coast, you might try out different power sources to see if you have a defective unit. If it's just ground hum you might consider getting a filter as they are not expensive.

No magic needed, just a USB hub (powered) and an audio interface that is class compliant / doesn't need drivers. I have used this cheap device during my live set to send audio out to the mixer via USB.

Alright, I tried this, I get no output on my speakers when I run it through FL. I have the ports right, and I tried all channels. Just to avoid confusion, let me notate some things

Cable A - runs from my keyboard to laptop. It is USB-MIDI to USB.

Cable B - runs from my laptop to the synth. It is USB to DIN-MIDI (5-pin port).


I have MIDI input enabled on FL, from my keyboard (it works for other instruments). I have a MIDI output "instrument" on FL, which is supposed to be controlled by the keyboard. The MIDI output "instrument" is set up so that the port matches up with my output device (i.e the synth), and the channel matches the one I set on my synth following your instructions. I get output while playing the synth directly, so it's not an issue with aux-ing out to speakers. Cable B lights up when I hit any note on my keyboard, so I think it is sending data correctly. Cable A seems to be working as FL can detect the notes correctly (and Cable B is additional evidence).


I suspect it's an issue with cable B not having all ports connected to something. Cable B looks like it is some iteration of this. Should I be facing a problem if the MIDI-in part of that cable isn't plugged to anything?

Mad Catz makes a Rockband 3 keyboard controller for the Wii, PS3, XB360.


You can connect any MIDI keyboard or controller to your XB360 with this

If you get shitty ground noise when recording from your computer, pick one of these up to fix it (note they're RCA-in):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aww damn, I've also heard people have had a lot of success with these using the OP-1

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

They're small and don't require additional power but still kind of annoying to have to have an extra piece of equipment in the chain.