(Part 2) Top products from r/tdi

Yeah. I did a top-fill using a nifty tool from Amazon. I drained using the exterior metal plug and let it stop. Then removed the inner plastic tube and let it drain all the way out. While that was goin I removed the battery and intake box, removed the filter and cleaned the inner threads as well as the filter housing. Applied clean fluid around the new seal and replaced in the channel it sits in. I then replaced the inner tube drain plug and stuck my funnel and tube tool directly into the hole where the filter rests and filled 1L at a time. Then replaced the exterior drain plug hand-tight and let the transmission get up to temperature. Car was fairly hot from driving earlier in the day still so it was pretty quick to drain and get back up to temp. Let it run and then removed the metal plug to drain excess and then torqued it back in with the fresh washer. Easy peasy!

The tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xVzKBbGV45VK5

I replaced my cam shaft and lifters on my 05.5 brm at ~135k miles (now have 220k+) pretty much using this link and a service manual, if you're at all mechanical savvy. All-in I was about $800 in parts and accessories if I remember correctly. Definitely seek out a diesel guru from tdi club for a second opinion. I had a dealer tell me my car was totaled at the time.

To do the cam shaft you'll need some special tools. If you're looking at doing the work yourself, send me a PM. I have the tools and may be able to send them to you.

Edit this is the manual I referenced

It's funny because it's true. Now if you'll excuse me I just got my triple square driver so I can un-jam the middle seatbelt in my Sportwagen.

I had a friend that works for VW help me replace mine (2000 new beetle with 1.9L TDI). You need a set of specific tools to do the job properly: https://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-Tool-Set-Tdi/dp/B003LUG11I

I grabbed this fog light kit from ebay and this euro switch from amazon. The setup works great.

get this instead
https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Wireless-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GQ7KEY2V4ERQSYQPE83B

don't have to worry about switching cables or plugging it in and having your phone in the glovebox, just got it for my a4, works great

I think ive read that they both pretty much have similar features. One is just easier to do the long coding and the other is really easy if you pay extra money for the modules. "All apps cost credits, even with the PRO version."

So if you take your time you can probably still do the long coding but elevens makes it easy to just push a button.

If you are low on funds I would consider the Xtool scantool. It does everything at a very affordable cost. If your only goal is diagnosis and maintenance and you are low on funds or just frugal. Check out the xtool.

you just need a funnel to fill it. Something like this should work just fine, it's cheaper than getting their bottle to use as a funnel. http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-10701-Multi-Purpose-Funnel/dp/B0000AXRH5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449011531&sr=8-3

I've changed the fuel filter 3 times now and I always use a borrowed VCDS. Here are some helpful links.

• VW Vortex VCDS Map - Find a kind soul who will let you borrow their VCDS cable
  
• Standard Quart Bottle Pump - I have found that this is the cheapest and most reliable method to extract the existing fuel from the filter housing. The hose is small and it functions in a manner that's easier than a siphon IMO. If you don't remove the fuel, you are guaranteed to get a hell of a lot of diesel splash back once that filter comes undone from the housing cap. I still recommend using some paper towels or rags around the filter housing in case of even minor splash as you don't want to risk getting fuel on the rubber engine hoses.
  
• You will want to purchase a small fuel can to hold the new diesel as well as a clean receptacle to catch the existing fuel you remove from the housing (maybe a funnel to get the reclaimed diesel back into your tank, I usually wing that detail)
  
• How-to guide I use for filter changes - You're probably already familiar with this site but, if not, it will go into detail about everything you need to do including VCDS
  
• Don't use the "Output Tests" method described in the link above when you are using VCDS, but rather the "Basic Settings > Block 35 > On" method shown in a little blurb at the bottom for about 30 seconds x 3. This does a good job of removing any air in the fuel lines.
  
  
  Message me with any questions.

In theory, one of these green caps should fit a Mk4. I decided that I didn't need to order one, since I'm the only person that ever fills my tank.

check coolant temp sensor. it affects fueling. if in doubt, spend the $12 and get a new one. not sure if the one from autozone has an oring, but the one on amazon does

https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-158-0629-Coolant-Temperature/dp/B001UEBXNS

I had to do this to my wife's 2000 Jetta a few years ago. A bit of a PITA job, but not difficult and like you said, about $50 for the assembly. I had to buy wiper removal tool as well. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4676-Windshield-Wiper-Puller/dp/B000L7JQE8

This is what you will find: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0QYUNuf2v8

I have a can of rubberized undercoating (link) that I might spray in there at some point. It already has a very thick (1-4mm) paint on undercoating in there from the factory though.

Get a Bentley manual.
https://www.amazon.ca/Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-Service-Manual/dp/0837616786

How about this one? Amzparts Carplay 6.5" MIB Car Radio for VW Golf 7 MK7 VII Passat B8 MQB Tiguan 5GD 035 280 B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHRR5N5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mVYkDbEZBFAX6

you should be using an impact wrench if you're not already.

edit: I'm not sure you can even just buy the pulley. It seems it comes with the compressor. link

2nd edit: I was wrong

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Terminal-Cleaner/dp/B005FQY5VY Could be the battery connection, but it sounds like alternator isnt working or battery isnt taking a charge / or is at low volts. Weird things happen when there isnt enough juice to run things.

It looked the same to me too. But the reviews for the Curt are way better and no one seemed to have dumb issues with the install which could have been easily avoided. For more details my review is the most recent

https://www.amazon.ca/Volkswagen-Jetta-Service-Manual-Platform/dp/0837613647

Having done this recently on ALH's and FSI's, it's pretty straightforward guess to how a BRM would go.

1. Jack up car.
   
2. Disconnect battery, drain coolant.
   
3. Remove Intake airbox and turbo inlet pipe
   
4. remove turbo charge pipe from compressor to intercooler
   
5. remove exhaust downpipe
   
6. remove EGR system and intake manifold
   
7. disconnect oil feed line and oil return line from the turbo
   
8. remove coolant lines from turbo (if any, I think BRM was oil cooled only) or from block depending on accessibility
   
9. remove block support bracket for turbo
   
10. remove lower exhaust bolts from manifold
    
11. remove engine "dog bone" support and push the bottom of the engine towards the firewall
    
12. remove upper exhaust bolts from manifold, supporting turbo
    
13. remove turbo.
    
    
    Install in reverse. Use lots of copper anti-seize on any exhaust system bolts. Replace oil system gaskets if torn on removal. De-carbon the intake. Delete the EGR.

if you're really worried about it there is PS 911, which is meant specifically for this. You open the fuel filter and pour it in there, dump the rest in your tank. I don't think the starting fluid will do a damn even if you got it to turn over (doubtful). If your fuel is gelled it has wax crystals. They will clog the fuel filter and you'll have no fuel even if you get it to turn over. The 911 stuff is designed to unclog the filter allowing it to start. And don't forget a wrench that will work on the fuel filter.