(Part 2) Top products from r/techsupportgore

A VM could absolutely work with a pass+through and the card /u/grimman listed (or SHOULD in theory). We have a similar setup for RFD (remote firing device - those are newer ones just a reference) where the software only runs on XP and will not ever run on anything newer (I tried way to much to get it working so I know it won't lol).

Has to have a cable just like the one linked above (this one incase the above is removed for any reason :P) and it works just fine.

Software installed fine on the VM, the VM found the adapter card after just plugging it in, boom RFD worked wonderfully on a win10 laptop running the VM now. No more lugging around the old winXP brick of a machine!

EDIT - OP comment: You may need a different adapter then what was mentioned however setting it up on a VM "should" work just fine; it is worth atleast trying :) plus it means you can have a backup ready to go at a moments notice! Just take a snapshot of the VM once you are done getting it working perfectly and problem solved :)....or backup the VM itself and save it to a network drive to be actually backed up....or both the snapshot and VM backup. I recommend both!

As an 06 (low voltage technician) this hurts me to see x.x there are other options for repair that would be much better than this current set up. Here's a few methods;

1. For under $5 you can get these [IDC connectors]
   (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Yellow-IDC-Connectors-25-per-Pack-85-950/100036034)
   
   basically you put both ends of the cut cable inside color for color then use pliers to push the yellow button down. If you're able to trim the cable a bit then you could maintain the twist going into these connecters (the twist is important) and it'll be a fairly solid splice. I believe their also gel filled so the copper won't tarnish. It has some protection.
   
   
2. For around $20 you can get this punchless termination tool plus two cat 5e Jack's and a short patch cable
   
   This method would add solid connections all the way through. Even though you experience a little loss at each jack, it would probably be negligible for home use. You'd just terminate the two Jack's and plug them in to one another.
   
   
3. For around $28-$30 you could get the [punchless termination tool] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADWQHK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uAArDbNF31QH4)
   One Cat5e jack and an Rj45 crimper tool that comes with Rj45 connectors (Ethernet plug ins) and a 4 pair tester you could use to verify you punched it all down correctly. The idea here is you'd plug the cable with the Rj45 termination directly into the Cat5e jack. It's similar to the last method, youll just have one connection instead of two.
   
   
   Spend any more than that and you're better off just replacing the cable all together.
   
   Keep in mind, I don't do these quick fixes professionally unless it's a matter of safety (a customer that deals with life safety calls, etc) and need to be up while replacing their data drop. The most ideal method would be to replace the cable entirely, but any of thes could work fine. Also leaves less of a headache for the next guy.

Electronic Parts Cleaner spray and hope: http://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

Next time apply MAX a grain of rice sized amount on the CPU and then spread across the top with something flat. The goal isn't to drown the CPU, it's just to fill in any small spaces between the CPU and heatsink to improve thermal conduction and avoid hot spots.

>Nah, regular tweezers are less narrow most of the time.

these suckers are my go to, are $5 a pair, are insanely strong, yet are so dang narrow that I regularly stab myself to the point of drawing blood while aimlessly twiddling them

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6

but yeah, the msafe jack is a series of tiny neodiddlys covered by a thin piece of plastic. but yeaher, if you have five bones to spare and want to expereince the best bang for your buck tweezers money can buy, I can't endorse these guys hard enough. I used to be big on aven which are a budget japanese brand and cost 5X more, yet aren't as well built or rugged. CHP for life

Looks like only $40. I want to see some pictures when it's done!

• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FD5CI8
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Komputerbay-Speed-Compact-Flash-Ultra/dp/B0056IHYF0
  
  edit: modified for formatting and to include correct link thanks to lunkhe4d
  
  +/u/bitcointip @twotrips $40 verify

As long as it doesn't have a screen on it, a can of this will work quite well, it's like keyboard air but better because it's also a solvent (but doesn't dissolve plastic like Brakleen). Don't use it near backlit screens though, it dissolves the glue holding them together and you'll never quite get it looking right again.

if i had to choose one mouse for use in hand to hand combat situations, this would be it.

Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500P-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001U899HQ

Had one at my last job and loved it.

Actually, not that this matters but he is using THIS kit. I have used them at work and they are very good for the price point, but are much flimsier than the iFixit driver and tend to fall apart after about 6 months of regular use.

After watching the rest of the video it seems like it is a bit, although not in a haha way but more in a "we gave an ingnorant person tools and no instructions" way.

I'm pretty sure it was this in a larger tube: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0087X728K

Either way, yeah it was an ancient decommissioned desktop so it wasn't a big deal. I've seen CPUs break in a myriad of ways but this was the first time I've seen so much of the wafer ripped off.

> Can't move to a VM because it uses proprietary PCI interface cards, which also don't have updated drivers.

Pass-through + https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PEX1PCI1/dp/B0024CV3SA

Perhaps that could work? In any case, you'd still have to run the old OS version, but at least you would have slightly easier access to newer hardware (not counting the PCI card, obviously).

Really thin tweezers probably. Maybe drill a thin hole, and screw in a thin screw to pull it out. If you can't you might have to replace the jack.

Edit: Hakko CHP 3-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Precision Tweezers with Very Fine Point Tips for Microelectronics Applications, 4-3/4" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPEWI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-k2SCbAXPW0HV

Here are some thin tweezers lol

If compressed air and a toothbrush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

Electronics cleaner. It's like a less abrasive brake-clean that's still a solvent and meant for use on electronics.

That's what it looked like at my complex looked like until I got these suckers.


I get 5ghz from down the block.

I remember i had the same off-white microsoft optical mouse for years until the right click started to not work

Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B7HB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O8JhDbP3JDQQ3

Well I guess it wasn't off-white when it was new...

>Fujitsu lifebook lh532

so between looking at the hinge's images online and this image the hinge itself appears to be in tact... meaning the Chassis needs to be replaced.

​

You may be able to also try another method, and that is to remove the top cover of your laptop and try to Epoxy the hing back down into/onto the broken mounting points of the Chassis.

​

I would make a recommendation of Arctic Silver's Thermal Adhesive. It's a strong bond and it will not melt when exposed to high heat. I've used it to glue a heatsink stand-off back onto a laptop, and it's held for years.


You can find it Here

I am guessing you have not been to the USA
https://www.amazon.com/Kraft-Grated-Parmesan-Cheese-Canister/dp/B06XQ23K58

https://www.amazon.com/Kraft-Grated-Parmesan-Cheese-Canister/dp/B06XQ23K58

Here is the mobile version of your link

Here ya go.

What you're looking for is [one of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Digital-Circuit/dp/B003LHJSY8)

I use one of these: Circuit Breaker Finder

The transmitter plugs into the outlet and transmits a radio signal through the wire. At the panel, the receiver is passed closely over each breaker. The receiver beeps when the correct breaker is located.

The other method is to plug in a lamp that you can see from the panel or a radio that you can hear, then turn off each breaker one at a time until the correct breaker is located.

The MetroVac is as loud as a vaccum

Not really.

I have a little pancake compressor in my shop I got specifically to dust off electronics. I use it occasionally for other jobs, but it's primarily a duster. I just use a short hose with a moisture trap installed inline.

I just couldn't stand buying canned air anymore.

http://www.amazon.ca/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver/dp/B000HZFCT2 This.

Amazon link.

These exist too https://www.amazon.com/Eyeboot-Port-Enclosed-Power-Supply/dp/B01MXK6K48 49 Front facing Standard A USB ports

Edit: and one that is in stock https://www.amazon.com/Block-Erupter-Port-USB-220V/dp/B00GCQQE42/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

A decent inexpensive replacement, Android 9.0 Car Stereo 7 inch DVD Player for GMC Chevy Silverado 1500 2012 Quad Core Double Din in Dash Touchscreen FM/AM Radio Receiver Navigation with Rear View Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LG6Q1L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iyUKDb8WAPNJN sorry about the link gore.

Man maybe you should work at geek squad because then you'd know they aren't banana plugs

The 3rd gen iPod that twotrips has doesn't have a zif connection. the zif connection is on the ipods with video. He needs a 50 pin adapter. I did the CF card mod on my 3rd gen, and unfortunately not all of the adapters work. I ended up using this one. The ipod also doesn't function perfectly with the mod, it will sometimes hang or not shut off, but it still works.

Bro... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n.PyDbEWT98RR

I use this for work and it's pure gold.

You're setting yourself up for a fire or you could spend 20 bucks and get a toolkit.

Block Erupter 49 Port USB 2.0 Hub 110/220V ATX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GCQQE42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pl9Wzb7DBCMXD so much more affordable.

https://www.amazon.com/FixMeStick-Virus-Removal-Device-Unlimited/dp/B006ZCHVM2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

$60... :(

If you check [review meta] (https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B006ZCHVM2?utm_source=extension&utm_content=chrome_v2.2) its says most of the review are fake.

I'm only speaking from years of service experience, given heat and time almost all thermal compounds will eventually harden up just like this. I've also used thermal epoxy in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Premium-Adhesive-ASTA-7G/dp/B0087X7262 for other purposes, but only an idiot would use permanent epoxy on a CPU.