Top products from r/tevotarantula

sorry i confused you I mean't pay close attention to the amount of digits. It actually is doing something. Its just doing it at very fine increments(thats why you got 3 numbers instead of 2). I.e. So like right now im printing abs, mashing the first layer and i've been lazy about calibrating my gcode offset with my probe. I first watch how the initial lines are laying down. Then i poke my head down and if i can see the stream of plastic laying down out of my nozzle, i keep going down until just after i can't see that stream, then check the layers and stop. A flashlight is handy. All off the filaments have a different feel. PETG being the absolute worse. I imagine your first layer looks incredible right now because its kind of mashed. And that it is beautifully mirrored like on the underside where it meets the glass if you haven't used a glue stick. Which is a look i like personally a lot. Looks like fine circuit board traces with the lines right?. But after that first layer keep jacking it up until the stringing stops. Just keep going up man. You may be twisting that knob a lot and thats okay. And when you get where it stops stringing, just add that number to your g code offset in your slicer. Baby stepping is a killer feature to utilize, its not hard at all you just have to get a feel for it. You will notice differences in how the lines lay down vs how much of a filament stream you can see. Im telling you this because I think finding your number babystepping with one print is less frustrating than start prints over and over punching in numbers inside your slicer. Its great to learn babystepping.

I was printing ABS tonight and i went to -150, i was printing PETG the other day and went all the way up to 500-600. If its way off you could be going way up. You will see it in your print, just be patient. I would actually encourage you to keep your first layers as your doing now for better adhesion and make your slicer correct the offset after the first layers. Thats what I do. But do that after you get this figured out.

These help a lot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T85ANNW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can buy it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525473423&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+printer+belt

Also on the tevo store:

https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/collections/tarantula-spare-parts/products/10meter-gt2-6mm-open-timing-belt

Notice also that the acrylic parts are fragile and breaking those before printing better replacements will be expensive to solve, unless someone can print the parts for you ofc. So take it easy and don't tight the nuts too much. Use washers whenever you can.

To get a replacement wire, just look at the connectors on the stock wires and look at Amazon pictures until you find ones that are identical (and long enough). [This one looks right, if my memory serves me well.] (https://www.amazon.com/initeq-2-Pack-Meters-Stepper-Printer/dp/B074YZ251K)

To diagnose the main board, just try swapping the wires around and moving the printer with the settings menu. Good luck!

Yes. Change them with regular, esp if you're going to be using the acrylic. Tape your acrylic with doing tape to give them a little more strength. I'll get you a link for which ones to buy

Here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OK4TZO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it's for the enclosure you probably don't want to run it off the control board, then. What would be the purpose?

You need to control the enclosure's temp separate from what's going on for print cooling. You need something like this to do that and then you can mount it inside your enclosure with something like this thing. That way you can set your enclosure temperature independent of your control board and draw as many amps as you need without worrying about blowing out a mosfet on your controller.

I use these for most of the wires:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/

and these for any carrying a lot of power or thicker gauge wire:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTRH86M/

you can search around, but there are some issues with knock-off ones melting and causing issues (the ender 3's stock ones among them). the one's I linked are pre-vetted by youtubers who independently tested a bunch to validate authenticity and quality when the issue was first brought to light.

4 meters sounds like it would be plenty, a parts site I found lists a 5 meter belt as a replacement for the x and y axis, so 2.5 meters seems like the length it's asking for, but I'm not sure how much leftover you'd get with that.

I just took a gamble, didn't really do any homework.
PRILINE

Here's a couple more little bits of advice if you decide to stick with the Tarantula...

Order a pack of these t nuts. Unlike the T nuts that come with the kit, you pop them into the rails and they hold themselves in place (although you can slide to line stuff up). It makes assembly much easier. With the stock T nuts it can be hard to get them all lined up when you need to attach a part to the extrusion. And then you never really know if they engaged the extrusion or not. With those other ones, you put them in the extrusion and the hold the part up and start the screws. They almost can't be done wrong - if they're in the channel, they will be properly engaged with the extrusion. You can sometimes accidentally knock them crooked in the channel, but when it happens you know it and it is much easier to fix than problems with the stock t-nuts because taking the part off doesn't mean you have to redo all the T nuts associated with that part.

Order a pack of larger O.D. 4mm washers and put them on any nut/bolt that faces up to the acrylic or even printed plastic parts. Helps prevent damage.