> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments

• Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.
  
  
• Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.
  
  
• You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!
  
  
• Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.
  
  
• A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.
  
  
• FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.
  
  If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
  
  
• SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!

A topic like this just came up, here's what I said then.

The Hurricane Tools are pretty decent. I've never tried carbide turning tools, but I feel that regular steel tools are just as good.

I primarily use the bowl gouge set, and then for everything else, I bought the cheap Benjamin's best 8-piece set.

For almost a year I sharpened them by hand because I really was unsure of grinding. I just have a cheap 6" grinder with stock wheels, that I always feel like it would eat up, and burn the tools. I was really tempted to buy the wolverine jig, so I tried to copy it out of wood. I replicated both of these jigs (though the one on the left is all you really need) and used some old rusty flat head screw drivers to practice the bevel. It worked surprisingly well on the screw drivers, I could even turn with them.

Sharpening the actual tools worked fantastically well, they finally "cut" for the first time, heh. Again, I thought I would burn them up, but light even pressure, and multiple passes made it super simple. It really only takes a few seconds to sharpen them, it actually takes me longer to adjust my custom jig. If you're using the same tool, and jig position, it's super easy though.

Next you'll be wanting info on chucks ;)

If you're looking for a solid foundation in technique, pick one or the other of:

Woodturning ,A Foundation Course- Keith Rowley

or, Fundamentals of Woodturning, Mike Darlow

For more artistic/ inspirational instruction, I'd recommend the following, and I'll just be lazy and copy my text from the wiki here (I'd argue that even in this day and age of YouTube etc, these two have a very relevant place on every bowl turner's bookshelf):

Ellsworth on Woodturning: How a Master Creates Bowls, Pots and Vessels, David Ellsworth, 2008: A must read for all turners really (but especially those interested in green wood bowl and vessel turning), this comprehensive guide from the grandfather of the modern art woodturning movement covers everything from making your own hollowing tools, to using the bowl gouge, to sanding and finishing and everything in between.

The Art of Turned Bowls: Designing Spectacular Bowls with a World- Class Turner, Richard Raffan, 2008: Anything by Richard Raffan is worth reading but this book is especially useful, because, while there are lots of technical turning manuals and "how-to" material available, there is comparatively little written about good form and design, and it is a concept many woodturners would do well to pay more attention to. Good form trumps pretty wood, and this book shows you how one master developed his eye for pleasing curves and good proportion through a lifetime of production bowl turning while reflecting on what made some shapes more successful than others.

I don't see safety gear on here. Take that $20 you were going to spend on a grinding wheel and pick this up before you get anything else: Face Shield

I'm going to assume you already have safety glasses. Make sure to use both; the face shield is not intended to be a replacement for safety glasses.

Once you have all of that...save more money! Depending on what you like to turn, you've got plenty more that you're going to want to buy:

General Accessories: Live center & jacob's chuck for your tailstock. A good light that you can reposition as needed. Some sort of rack to keep your chisels close at hand (you can make this if you have the tools to do so). Grinding supplies (grinder, grinding jig/accessories, slip stones/strops, aluminum oxide grinding wheel - assuming you're using a standard dry grinder). A smock (trust me on this one).

Pen Turning: Pen mill, drill bits (keep in mind most pen kits use metric sizes), pen mandrel, different sized bushings (assuming you want to turn different pen styles), pen press for assembly purposes.

Bowl/Vessel Turning: 4-jaw chuck (these can get pricey; there's some on the market that cost more than your Rikon lathe), additional jaws for your 4-jaw chuck, specialty turning tools (bowl gouges, hollowing tools), and many more things that start to get handy as you work on larger projects.

Turning's a fun hobby, but like any hobby worth a damn, it's not cheap. :)

Edit: One thing I haven't seen mentioned is looking for a used lathe. Modern ones tend to get snapped up pretty quickly on Craigslist, but if you can get lucky enough to come across one, you might save yourself some cash.

I totally agree! I only just started turning this month and within the first week my nose started bleeding like crazy from all the sawdust. I just bought the GVS Elipse from Amazon for $20 and I am soooo thankful I did. With that and the Honeywell face shield for another $20, I can turn all day without any issues. It feels like I'm breathing in clean cool air. It's awesome. VERY MUCH recommended.

I have a mix of Robert Sorby and PSI tools. I've only had my lathe less than 2 months, and my sharpening jig/grinder for less than a couple weeks. I've gotten a lot better at sharpening, but for now, I cannot tell a huge difference between the tools. I'm sure that will change as I get a lot better with them. I'm definitely less worried about over sharpening the cheaper ones (grinding them down faster) so they are helping me to get more practice for getting a good, consistent bevel.

I've also got this bowl gouge on the way.

What is the difference between these two sets(aside from number of pieces)?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIECW4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI8CTS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I am trying to figure out what to get for my boyfriend for Christmas, and he's in a similar situation of having a lathe but no turning tools. I also have a face shield in my amazon cart. He's had a box of smaller turning blanks for a while now.

He does a reasonable amount of woodworking(makes a lot of furniture, is super into hand tools), but he's new to turning, so if you have any suggestions, it would be appreciated!

note, they are right about the mandrel, but if you want to drill the blank on the lathe, you'll need a jacobs chuck and a regular one. I got a cheap Grizzly and it works great on my harbor freight lathe(18x10)

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H8049-6-Inch-4-Jaw-1-Inch/dp/B000M63176/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192165&sr=8-6&keywords=lathe+chuck

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192244&sr=8-1&keywords=jacobs+chuck



Side note, some pen kits are fine to turn between centers but a mandrel is certainly the safest.

Close call.

I like the bionic because it has some chin coverage and seems pretty solid but I am sure there ate some great cheaper options. Make sure you get something with anti-fog, it makes a big difference. With the ionic s8510 is the coated, 8500 uncoated.

http://www.amazon.com/Uvex-S8510-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-Hardcoat/dp/B001VY3ACE

Cellulose Sanding Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MCLKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BJ15CbCPVFJZW

Mylands High Build Friction Polish, 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BL7X4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pL15Cb2B0EYNS

These are what I use. Ends up shiny like CA but is way easier to do. Sealer first and be generous with it, then polish. Both are done at speed on the lathe, but I like to work it in first then turn on the lathe on larger pieces.

yes, the same chuck can hold a bowl or a pen or other spindle. you'd just want different jaws for each purpose. The Nova G3 is a favorite here for good reason. it takes just a few minutes to swap out the jaws, and there are a crapload of jaw options available. you should be able to stick with the bowl jaws that (usually) come with the G3 and add a set of spigot jaws like these to help with pens, other spindles, and smaller bowls or boxes.

I have this one and I like it.

Uvex S8510 Bionic Shield, Black Matte Face Shield, Clear Polycarbonate Anti-Fog/Hardcoat Lens https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001VY3ACE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5ES-BbNXFWQAT

There are many more expensive ones, but this one works well for me. Comfy and as it turns out safe :)

Yeah man. No problem. The sanding sealer is made by Behlen and rub on (not the spray). Couldn't find it on Amazon, a wood yard near my house in Atlanta carries it. Mylands, who makes the friction polish, also makes a sanding sealer.

Here is a link to the polish on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BL7X4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OzlRwbSCRFWM5

Application is super easy. Just use a paper towel (not a rag! In case it snags while turning you want the paper to tear and not your finger). Takes about 20 minutes between sanding sealer coats and then only about 2 minutes between polish coats.

I've only started turning and finishing on the lathe recently so I'm still learning. You have to get the piece super smooth before and during sanding. I'll see things that I think I can just sand out and then it looks fine after sanding and then I finish it shows back up. I also may try lightly sanding between coats of the polish.

Amazon. Here's a G3 with the 1x8 dedicated (no insert needed) https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-48232-Reversible-Turning-Chuck/dp/B0074HJ1V6/

But yeah, Nova over the PSI -- because with the Nova, it's a known high QC piece. Their other stuff might not be, but those chucks are well made. You will have compatibility for sure between all Nova and Record jaws. The PSI not so much.

Also, not on that model, but the quick change jaw model on the PSI had a recall in December. So, I can't help but imagining jaws flying off at 3000 RPM. Yeah, not the same chuck, and it would take screws shearing off...but still, that peace of mind is gone.

Ok, here's my list for you.

Lathe: I like this one at Ford Machinery - $500

Chuck: Go with the Nova. I've got two and they work great. - $135

Carbide: Can't go wrong with Easy Wood Tools. Start with the Mini tools. When you need cutters, contact me and I'll hook you up. - $120 each, $360 for the set of 3.

Face shield: I just ordered this one the other day. - $35

You're looking at just over $1000 for that setup.

Your spindle is not 1.5", probably or even 1". I'd bet good money that your spindle is 3/4" diameter and 16 threads per inch. I have a very large lathe and my spindle is only 1.25". Look for a chuck with a 3/4" x 16 thread or one that can take a 3/4" x 16 threaded insert. The standard recommendation around here is the Nova G3. It's a little over your budget but you won't ever regret the purchase. Do NOT buy the chuck you linked to. It's not meant to hold wood and the jaws are independent which means you have to adjust each jaw separately - good luck getting things centered.

Assuming the lathe is 3/4 x 16 you want
https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-48202-Turning-Chuck-Insert/dp/B0064JJ52U and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064JJ88Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500901907&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nova+insert&dpPl=1&dpID=41QjeodDeLL&ref=plSrch

I don't have a drill press. I have had great success with the Barracuda Wood Lathe Chuck and Drill Chuck. This works very well. Still need to tap it out slowly to prevent build up inside the tube.

I don't if I'm rough turning green wood, but usually do wear one if I'm turning dry wood, and always when sanding. I use this one from 3M, which fits under the face shield pretty nicely and isn't too uncomfortable.

I have the round and the square from Rockler. Now that I have a decent set of bowl gouges (and I'm focusing mainly on bowls) I don't really use them much any more. I have found that I can get a much better (smoother) surface from a shearing cut. I very much prefer this to the surface you get with the scraping cut you must use with most carbide tools of this shape. That said, I'm keeping mine for the occasions that I need to do some spindle work.


In hindsight, I'm not sure I would have bought them if I had it to do over again. I started with a standard $70 amazon set of old school chisels (see below). I wish I had skipped straight from that to the good stuff (some examples listed below).



Apologies if this next section is a little pedantic. I was hoping to write something we could link from the sidebar.



So here's my recommendation:

Step | Description | URL
:------|:------|:------|
1 | Find some cheap (but not crappy) tools. | amazon link
1a | Figure out how to sharpen things. |
2 | Experiment, figure out what works, figure out what kind of turning you want to be doing. | Join the AAW, Find tutorials on youtube.com, take classes at your local woodworking store, etc.
3 | Find great tools. You don't want to spend a ton of time working with crappy tools. | when possible all my future tools will be from this guy: http://d-waytools.com/tools-gouges.html I also have tools from Sorby, Pinnacle, DWay, etc.

I have this set of hurricane gauges that I won at auction ($5 each, thanks failed charter schools!) they work great. You do need to have a good sharpening setup to get the grind you like, though. The one that comes out of the box is very poor.

Okay thank you. Is this what you got? http://www.amazon.com/WOODLATHE-CHUCK-WOODWORM-SCREW-INSERT/dp/B003CECDZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370021571&sr=8-1&keywords=nova+g3

I am not going to be purchasing a new chuck and adapter for a few weeks, but if you could chime back and give your input on how the chuck and adapter works for you, that'd be great!

The expert advice is to not buy a set but to instead only buy chisels for what you'll be doing. However if you're exploring turning you really don't know the exact kinds of turning you'll be doing, and you'll always be reading about oddball tools/techniques that you'll want to try.

So I'd advise a starter set that has at least one of each major tool type. This one fits that bill pretty well, I started out with it an still use everything but the "continental gouge".

I have a Nova G3 and love it.. grips like iron.
Woodcraft has them on sale right now.

Also on Amazon for $140 including the 1 x 8tpi adapter and 2" jaw set

If you can go a little higher, I'd recommend the Nova Comet II (NOVA 46300 Comet II Variable Speed Mini Lathe 12-Inch x 16 1/2-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2ASVNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_itR3AbTP1GG2G). It's what use (and what I got started on), and is a pretty nice workhorse for a bench lathe that's still reasonable in cost.

Well, I never did find the electric, angled, 2" random orbital sander on Amazon. I did find these right angle drills though. A few of the reviews are from bowl turners.
Gino: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339OU4W/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3341940462&pd_rd_wg=oBi4x&pf_rd_r=ENN5XTK29NAHT4K24BFR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00339OU4W&pd_rd_w=QhdDm&pf_rd_i=angle+drill&pd_rd_r=7eca9f4e-76c1-40f3-8d48-8ce5e8541ec9&ie=UTF8&qid=1519856451&sr=1#customerReviews
Neiko: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XUHA8C/ref=psdc_9022404011_t1_B00339OU4W

And there are a couple different ones at HF if you type "angle drill" in their search box.

A normal drill works. But perhaps the right angle style has better ergonomics, and a grip that is closer to your work. If I ever do find the one I was thinking of I'll be sure to post up.

For Pens, its not so much the tools you need as the accessories. Small tools are fine for pens, there isn't much material. If you really want the bigger tools, this was my starter set and I'm really happy with it.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375795181&sr=1-1&keywords=lathe+chisel


Accessories: Pen mandrel, morris taper (probably #2 but check) to hold the mandrel. Bushing set (slimline is easiest to learn with) and CA glue.

awesome, but please buy a face shield! they are cheap on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Bionic-Shield-Clear-Polycarbonate-S8500/dp/B001VXXUWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541119152&sr=8-3&keywords=face+shield

https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-S8510-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-Hardcoat/dp/B001VY3ACE bionic face shield is the best short of the powered ones, as far as I'm aware. I have one, find it doesn't fog easily, and when cleaned is crystal clear.

Edit: Depending on where you are in the world, this is still probably sold, but under different brands. Honeywell is the parent company I believe, so its sold under 'Uvex', 'Sperian', 'Honeywell' and probably others. If you're in Australia, RSEA have these shields, though you may have to special order the non-fog coating.

I'm loving my Delta midi lathe, but there's also a selection of recommended lathes in the turning wiki. I'm sure someone will link the page, before I can figure out how, though this mobile mess.

I think this lathe is the updated version of mine

Here's the Wiki page There's a breakdown of lathes based on a price range

Save it for later.

Gain proficiency on sacrificial pieces first.

I used this starting out:

https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Turning-Tools-Woodturning-Inches/dp/B008AVM7W0

For that depth you can likely use a 3/8" bowl gouge instead of 1/2".

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-8-Inch-55-Degree-Quarters-Right-Angle/dp/B000XUHA8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418839114&sr=8-2&keywords=angle+drill

this angle drill is widely used by turners for all grits + buffing. They're inexpensive, they don't last forever, they are much better than hand sanding.

Pick up some neoprene gloves for oily woods like that, especially if they're already causing irritation. I don't know about cocobolo specifically, but many woods can have health effects if inhaled, or you touch the oils too much, and you can become more sensitive to them as you work with them more. Also pick up a respirator, I have an older model similar to this one, and it's quite nice, doesn't bother me in the slightest.

I haven't bought the chuck yet.

Would this work instead of Nova's unthreaded adapter? (I don't have a machinist friend). Looks like I would put this on the 3/4" 10 TPI spindle, then put the Nova adapter on that, then the chuck. Essentially, an adapter for an adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LA341018-Headstock-Spindle/dp/B000KI8CBQ

Thanks for the recommendation on the Oneways. They are a little more expensive than the Nova so if I can't swing it with an adapter, then I will go with Oneway.

I don't see any specs on the site such as HP, speed range, etc, but for not much more you can get a real quality lathe. The Rikons are also a better choice, IMHO, and the lowest one is cheaper than the Turncrafter. I just don't have a lot of faith in Penn State Industries.

The taper is a 2. This is the one I bought. Works great.

I use this hurricane one and it's great.

Sorry, meant to link this one. I use this one as it's a little lighter and the 8x12 handles it pretty well: PSI CSC2000C Barracuda Wood Lathe Chuck System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KICC62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SoUzybGE16974

I have had good luck with the Neiko Close quarter drill .

One word of advise, those sanding pads tend to heat up and melt the Velcro on the back, making them useless after that (learned the hard way). So take it slow and let it cool often.

http://thompsonlathetools.com/

They use a very high quality steel that holds an edge like nothing else.

this is a great set up for a 8" slow speed grinder like rikon
https://www.amazon.com/Wolverine-Grinding-System-VARI-GRIND-jig/dp/B01JAPC6D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484924940&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=vari+grind&psc=1

If you can part with $35 or so, I suggest this in the interim:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CVJC20/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I do is make a basic shape with the spindles on the lathe, then drill a hole lengthwise through the peice. Then run a bolt through the wood, so that it sticks out 1" or so on one side. Then clamp the bolt with this chuck.

Yeah, there's a hole in your piece, but it adds a little freedom until you have $180 to drop on a chuck.

See MS paint drawing below. The wood is a cutaway view.

http://i.imgur.com/TY8f5aJ.png

I have the exact lathe and just purchased the G-3 for it. Haven't used it yet, but don't forget to get the insert/adapter if you don't have one yet. You have to have it for it to fit your lathe.

Don't sweat it, I have the same lathe. It's not some one off oddball, so you can find anything you want for it, just like the Jet mini's and stuff.

I have this chuck, these pen jaws, and this pen mandrel. Oh, and this drill chuck.

The chuck comes with everything you need to get started with bowls and such. All the other stuff I use for pens.

Your two cents are well worth having, when I said day it's because I need to change the shape of my tools and put on the edge again. When I first started I picked up this set of tools and from all of the reading I've been doing about angles and grinds I want to take the time to make mine right instead of what came out of the box.

Face shield!!! $15

set of basic lathe tools PSI has a decent set for sale $80

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4/180-3590963-5929100

Wood from neighborhood=free
reddit for cool ideas=free

you'll have to figure out where to spend your last $5

this is the most popular shield amung turners.

another question i had if i go with the Harbor freight one would Nova 48232 G3 Reversible Chuck be a good choice for this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074HJ1V6/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

I highly recommend this face shield;
http://www.amazon.com/Uvex-S8510-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-Hardcoat/dp/B001VY3ACE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418785379&sr=8-1&keywords=Bionic+face+shield

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JAPC6D4/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537288905&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Wolverine jig, has the platform and varigrind. Just no special skew jig. Though that's not really needed.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/rikon-8in-slow-speed-grinder?gclid=CjwKCAjwxILdBRBqEiwAHL2R85OnPOBhTVT2F05KAlKZHjtDuKZ2jRAp9SDT1C8ITuOLXgpHUOs3bhoChW8QAvD_BwE

Woodcraft has the grinder on sale. To start with the wheels it comes with are just fine honestly. And if you wreck them getting the hang of sharpening with it then get new wheels. Or a new wheel.

Total comes out close to 300.

I checked that as well, and it also specifically says that safety glasses must be worn with it. Link : http://www.amazon.com/Uvex-S8510-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-Hardcoat/dp/B001VY3ACE

Also, out of curiosity,what respirator do you use?

It's worth it's weight in gold; at least once a month it stops a big chunk from getting me in the neck or face. This one's been serving me well.

Thanks! I used [these] (http://imgur.com/a7Gmysb) to finish it. I sand through 600, then applied [EEE Ultrashine] (http://amzn.com/B001DT5H7I) follow-ed up with a few coats of [Mylands High Build Friction Polish] (http://amzn.com/B004BL7X4U).

I'm just starting to experiment with the CA glue finish technique, but my results have been mixed.

yeah, I picked expensive hobbies (board games, photography, woodworking). Is there any reason not to get this PSI chuck set? Its about the same price.

For less than $100 more, you can get a proven performer and 1/2" of additional swing as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Industrial-46-460-2-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00309ZZRQ

I bought a nova G3 reversable off of Amazon for $107 a couple weeks ago. Looking at woodcraft they have it at $175 just fyi. Even on sale you're not going to beat that deal.

Similar product, but cheaper.

FWIW, not sure if the difference is worth the extra $.

This is the one I own, and it's great. I took it off about 90 seconds before this happened because it was fogging up and I thought "eh, it'll be fine. Not like this is gonna come flying out of the chuck..."

I've been using the 12x33 lathe and that exact chuck for about a year now with no complaints about either. I make a variety of things including bowls and handles. If you plan on turning larger pieces though (12"+ dia.), the slowest speed may not be slow enough for your liking.

For the price point, I recommend the Hurricane bowl gouge set: https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Turning-Tools-Woodturning-Inches/dp/B008DH8ZM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495218437&sr=8-1&keywords=hurricane+bowl+gouge+set

https://www.amazon.com/Ellsworth-Woodturning-Master-Creates-Vessels/dp/1565233778

Here is the mobile version of your link

Buy one of these PSI Woodworking LA341018 Headstock Spindle Adapter (3/4-Inch x 10tpi to 1-Inch x 8 tpi chuck) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KI8CBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YePZBbYTWPDDY. Then you are set up with the most common spindle/tpi size.

Do a 3/4 10tpi to 1X8 tpi. then get a faceplate.

1X8 is common so it opens you up to other stuff.

PSI woodworking, it will cost you around $34

Assuming you live in the US. http://www.amazon.com/Sperian-Protection-S8500-Bionic-Shield/dp/B001VXXUWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454092910&sr=8-1&keywords=face+shield

https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-Bionic-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-S8510/dp/B001VY3ACE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525609002&sr=8-3&keywords=uvex+face+shield

The Nova II Comet was literally just on sale (on Amazon) it's currently listed out of stock, but it was 479 with the g3 chuck.

You can get it right now without the chuck for 443 (https://smile.amazon.com/NOVA-46300-Variable-12-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B00C2ASVNY/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00C2ASVNY&pd_rd_r=PRNFDTRGP0MVR202FWE0&pd_rd_w=JQkum&pd_rd_wg=KYmcN&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=9YS7ERBDCJAMAXRRZW38&pf_rd_r=9YS7ERBDCJAMAXRRZW38&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop) and the chuck is 99.

Wolverine Grinding System with VARI-GRIND jig https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JAPC6D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bsm8ybSZQ071B

This is it. Just got mine set up earlier this week.

https://www.amazon.com/Wolverine-Grinding-System-VARI-GRIND-jig/dp/B01JAPC6D4/

http://d-waytools.com/gouges/bowl-gouges/

http://d-waytools.com/gouges/spindle-gouges/

http://d-waytools.com/neg-rake-scrapers-2/

http://d-waytools.com/handles/

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/rikon-grinders

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=wood+turning+gouges&qid=1568416993&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Has worked well for me to start with. One tool is useless and when I took a class from someone in the club with a lot of experience he had to look it up. And what we found was most people reshaped it to something else.

So just hauled my grandfather's lathe home and was anxious to start making wood chips and dust. Found a roughly straight oak log and went to town after de-barking.

Lathe I used. More info shows that it is a 12x42. After finishing the piece I noticed that the tailstock is seized up and not sure how to go about in repairing. I dosed with PB blaster and will let it sit for a day. I'm sure the friction and heat helped the bearing /s ... stupid I know.

Minus heating up the tailstock, the wood borer'd oak, and the dull chisels everything went well. I am looking at this set and this chuck, would these be good for beginner use? Looking for some feedback.

this. i don't want my safety gear made by the lowest bidder. get yourself a bionic face shield. http://www.amazon.com/Uvex-S8510-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-Hardcoat/dp/B001VY3ACE

Here's the link, but as /u/jfoobar said the sale is over - hopefully it will be back again soon because it is a hell of a deal.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Industrial-46-460-2-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00309ZZRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479496196&sr=8-1&keywords=46-460