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Previous AT&T Tech here, please make sure the technician checks ALL connections. The fiber obviously the most important... then the Ethernet connection coming from the ONT to the RG (modem). If you can, make sure there are no butt connector splices as this means the install was done incorrectly (looks like this) Your Ethernet line should only have RJ-45 connections or punched down to a Keystone Jack. Anything else is done incorrectly and needs to be fixed to retain twists in the cable. Also, if they used existing cabling please make sure it is ATLEAST Cat5e or Cat6. If the existing wiring is on the outside of the building and looks aged/weathered, it needs to be replaced.

Yeah it is.

I would change the SSID's name. Both the 2.4 and the 5 GHz are named the same. Add something like _5G to the 5G one. Don't get confused with the guest SSID. There will be 3. The top one is the 2.4. The middle one will be the guest. The bottom one is the 5 G. I'll print out the page when my mom wakes up and I can remote into her.

The SSIDs will have different naming scheme too. Before it would be something like 2Wire883. Now they are named something ATTanY34C. You will need to reconnect all your equipment to the new SSIDs.

If you change the 5Ghz band to blahblah_5G and your devices don't see it, that means they don't support 5G wireless. I picked up a 5G wireless USB adaptor on Amazon for like 13 bucks.

Definitely trying to get this done before it rains.

The ONT needs 12 volts at 1 amp. What is the PSU providing that it couldn't be replaced by a 12v DC wall wart like this.

Thanks for letting me know you've seen an enclosure work.

Thanks man. I will find out what my current model is when I get home and post the info here. I found this guide after some googling. Do you find the guide to be adequate?

I have to do a wireless connection because I can't move the the router/modem to another location. I decided on this router. It will work with AT&T's router/modem in "bridge" mode right?

I run my own router behind the Uverse RG. Remember that since it's AT&T's property that you're leasing, they can do whatever they want remotely. They've pushed firmware updates to my RG that have completely obliterated my wifi and firewall settings. Maybe they're not supposed to reset it, but they have, more than once. If you run your own router, it's under YOUR control.

Instead of the router you linked, I'd suggest this one. It's what I have, and I get great coverage and throughput.

I don't think you can run multiple modems on a single phone line, there'd be too much interference. I'd try a powerline ethernet adapter. There are models with wifi if you need that extended, but this looks like a good basic model: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/

It’s a twisted 2 pair rj11 data cable. You could either make one with some ethernet crimpers and raw cat 5 or buy 2 adapters like this and use a standard ethernet cable. Third option is to call care and tell them you want the rg moved and see what another tech will do for you. Since you’re within the first 30 days there shouldn’t be a trip charge if you tell them that the other tech just put it there and hauled ass.



RJ45 Ethernet cable connector(F-to-F type) and RJ45 to RJ11 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBXXWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_k-LYBbHA080V8

Looked at your other posts, the guy BK1127 from the other thread has the right idea, you need to use a Powerline kit to get off of your Wifi connection.

This is the one I use, and it's worked flawlessly: https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DHP-601AV-PowerLine-Gigabit-Starter/dp/B00F0RC97A

Just plug both sides directly into the outlet (not on a powerstrip/surge protector).

The $70 vs. $90 price can vary even within a single neighborhood. I've checked prices that AT&T is offering for a few addresses around my house. Most locations are $70 for gigapower, but my house is $90 per month.

For TV, my choice was a one time purchase of this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003P966FG/ref=psdc_172665_t2_B00009W3BW . Along with netflix, this is enough, imo.

It's really not a good idea to plug anything extracurricular into your DVR.

Try buying and installing a PowerLine Ethernet adapter instead. You can still use a switch by your computer if you need that second connection.

This is the cable I'm using. I've wired it directly to both the X1 and PS4 and they work fine afterwards so you might be right in that I've got a defective switch. It's either that or something in the settings of the gateway that I haven't set correctly.

We have notoriously bad power in the area and it usually drops out at least once per month. In order to combat this all of my computing equipment is on a number of different UPS units. The one in my basement running a modem, router, switch, and 2 PoE injectors for my access points is this model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When the power drops it usually clocks in at just under 2 hours of uptime which is usually enough as the drops are frequent but short.