(Part 2) Top products from r/vandwellers

> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator

Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.

Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.

Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.

Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.

Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.

Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.

BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).

For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.

Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.

Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/

I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/

I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/

Most of our vanventures have been in snow, winter and mountains. We have also spent a lot of time in urban areas where stealth is key.

For insulation, we went with 3m Thinsulate. It is good stuff, easy to install, and safe (health wise, i.e. breathing in the material if you were to do fiberglass).

We did use reflectix to stick in the windows (also covered with black out curtain, and a layer of Thinsulate behind, as windows will have the most heat loss/gain). Reflectix is like a white car, it reflects away the rays!

From what it sounds like you're planning on, I would do insulation. It'll help with temperature changes (especially for the pup), and noise. 20 degrees isn't too shabby, but that metal box can turn into a fridge. And sleep will make all the difference when traveling. Noise too - mountains can have nice noise, but what if you're in the city, or on the side of the road mid-travel, or only place to park is in a crowded campground? Insulation helps with the noise.

Other noteworthy items for us...

• This bed
  
  We have a custom size bed, and just cut a 3 inch foam topper which we used for a bit, but we didn't realize just how much we were missing out on until my bad back plus turning on my hips in the wood all night led us to make this purchase. It is literally a cloud and I never want to leave bed. It's foam that we just cut down to size too.
  
  
• A journal
  
  We write our favorite parts, and keep track of everywhere we take the van. From an hour from home to other states, we write down some special moments to look back on. The joys of having the van are for those new moments in new places!
  
  
• Battery powered string lights
  
  They are pretty dope for mellow evenings without the bright, real ceilings lights on.
  
  
• Wifi repeater
  
  My partner made one himself, and it is freakin awesome getting HD Netflix on a cold winter night in the parking lot at a ski resort.
  
  
• French press
  
  Because coffee.
  
  
• Electric water heater
  
  Depending on your battery/inverter capabilities, this should do the trick. We didn't need this, but it sure is nice to have this low-wattage electric water heater when we don't want to boil water outside. Camp stove = need propane (what if you run out!), have to go outside (cold? uncomfortable AND delays the water boiling! in a populated area? less stealthy to boil water on the sidewalk, don't want to look like the creeper in the van parked in front of someone's house) and usually small (water can do so many things (ramen, coffee, tea, oatmeal, etc.) so why limit to one cup at a time?) So it's really nice to have a large, fast way of heating water while being able to stay inside.
  
  
• Black out curtains
  
  Usually more energy efficient and way easier to sleep with some darkness
  
  
• Large box
  
  It's become our "junk drawer" and sits on our counter - just holds all our little doodads that we use more often.
  
  
• A fan
  
  Fresh air, cools you down, and makes sure you're getting enough oxygen in there. (We got it as a way to make sure we don't have carbon monoxide poisoning from a propane-fueled heater too!) Not hard to install either!
  
  
• Solar panels
  
  The other day, the van battery died (just got old) and so we just waited for the sun to come out so we can charge it back up!
  
  That's all I can think of right now!
  Hope that helps :)

The yeti is nice, i have never used one. Some say it is overpriced, but you have to admit that it is a nice simple all in one thing - battery, usb,300 watt pure sine wave inverter, and can charge from 120 vac,12vdc,or solar.

It is what it is, 33Ah battery so if that is not enough then what? If you are going to charge from 12 (like your car) you will need hours and hours. Now if you are willing to put an isolator on you van/car? you could charge faster than a cigarette lighter socket but then you are adding complexity for just using occasionally. So if you can live with the capacity then it's a neat package.

The prices for the big yeti are over $1.4K ? I think that is 100Ah of battery. I think that would get you through a weekend with enough spare energy as to not have to ration. idk And this would just be charged at home or if you find 120vac while you are away.

I will think it over more as it is late for me. But what I have done before is to use a battery box and a separate inverter. The box and battery(battery is bad now) I owned from the trolling motor set up for my canoe. It is not a clean set up but can be used in pieces as you like. So if you have separate pieces and your battery runs low you just hook up the inverter to the van, and don't run out of fun times.

here are some amazon links - non referrals so take a look and seeif you get what I mean.

https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG Nice thing here is it will hold any battery up to group 24 or 27

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXMB127-Battery-Replacement-Caddy-Golf/dp/B00BDV7OO0 I just picked a 100Ah battery at random

https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2601-Elite-400W-Inverter/dp/B007Y4BL1C

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Maintainer-Automobile-Batteries-maintain/dp/B00IZV91Q0/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IZV91Q0&pd_rd_r=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905&pd_rd_w=uLdL1&pd_rd_wg=0Vigf&psc=1&refRID=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905 Any GOOD battery charger will do.

So like $500, but you now own a nice box, battery, charger, and inverter. So play with the idea and see if it would fit your style. Just an option.

Here is what some guy did with $1000 and you could scale this to your needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw

Sorry for the mess of a post.

Good luck and have fun. Be sure to let the sub know what you come up with.

Not a bad price on that kit. Personally I pieced together my own, using a Renology 100W panel and a cheap Mohoo PWM controller, and what you're looking at looks pretty comparable for a comparable price.

To try and actually answer your question, though, here's a fairly quick run-down of how to roughly size your battery. I'll use my own situation as an example; I have a small popup camper my wife and I use in the boonies, nowhere near power, for days at a time. This will assume you're using decent quality, sealed AGM deep cycle batteries, not the garbage RV/Marine "deep cycle" batteries, which are not true deep cycle, just slightly tougher starting batteries.

First step is actually the hard part, the rest is easy. You need to know what you want to run, how much power it draws, and how much you want to be able to run it between charges. That sizes your battery. Finding the current draw on your items if you don't already have them can be the hard part - if possible, it's often best to have what you want to run, and measure it for actual numbers.

For example, my main loads are:

• I wanted to be able to run a pair of Fantastic Fans on low (1A each) overnight, for up to 10 hours each, which is roughly 20Ah.
  
• Alternately, on colder nights I have a propane heater with a fan that draws about 3A, but which would only run for about four hours tops in twelve hours on a really cold night, so that's only about 12Ah. Since that's less than the fans and I wouldn't be running both, I don't count it.
  
• I have a water pump that draws about 3A but that is only used for minutes a day (not worth counting)
  
• LED lights that are 3W (about 1/4A). Let's assume I want to run one of those for up to 12h per night, so that's 3Ah.
  
• I also recharge two phones overnight, which are usually roughly 2Ah batteries each, maybe 2/3 discharged. The charge circuits aren't very efficient, so you can assume at least 2Ah each to recharge those phones, for 4Ah total.
  
• I'm also recharging a pair of 2.5Ah small batteries for e-cigarettes ("mods" ) overnight. They aren't fully discharged, but assume 5Ah to charge those up.
  
  My worst case overnight loads basically work out to 20Ah (fans) + 3Ah (lights) + 4Ah (phones) + 5Ah(mods). That's about 32Ah of load per day, pretty much worst case in hot weather.
  
  Now, you can do a few different calculations to get a minimum battery size from that.
  
  Number one, you really don't want to regularly cycle your battery below 50%, unless you want to be replacing your good batteries a lot. Hence, your absolute minimum recommended battery size would be 2x your load between charges. In my case, that's about 64Ah. A deep cycle discharged to 50% will usually last about 400 charge cycles.
  
  Now, given the choice, you really don't even want to discharge that low. A deep cycle discharged only 30% (roughly 1/3) will usually last 1100-1200 cycles. I generally recommend you size for at least triple your daily load. This pays off big time in the long run. For 50% more battery, your batteries will usually last nearly 200% longer (3x as long). Enormous cost savings long term.
  
  Hence, my recommended sizing would be 32Ah x 3, or 96Ah. I'm running a 100Ah battery, UPG UB121000, part number 45981. In practice I'm not regularly discharging this battery more than about 25%.
  
  Now, you get some extra benefit from oversizing as well. By sizing to 1/3 discharge, I can run two days without charging if I have to, and not be worse than a 70% discharge. That's a good emergency backup, since if you regularly discharge anywhere near 100%, your battery usually won't last more than 100-150 cycles. That covers me in case I get a day with absolutely zero sun. In practice this isn't a big worry for me, as on days with poor sun I'm only running the fans about half as much anyway, and if I couldn't get topped off during the day, in a pinch I'd just connect jumper cables to my van and have the battery at full charge after about an hour at idle.
  
  Next, once you know your average daily usage, you can also size your solar panel. You actually need to size more by charge time than by pure wattage, since a 100W panel will not produce 100W using a PWM controller. My 100W panel produces about 5.3A at 19V under ideal conditions (that calculates to 100W), but since the PWM controller just knocks the voltage down to an appropriate battery charge voltage, I'll never actually get 100W out of this panel. The current maxes out at 5.3A, but my battery pulls the voltage down to around 13.5V at charge, so at most I'm actually getting about 72W out of it.
  
  To size your panel, look at the optimum operating current (usually listed as Imp), and use that to size in amp hours instead. Plus, you also need to include any loads you'll be running while you charge. In my case, my panel puts out about 5.3A, but if it's a hot day, I'm going to be running one of those fans on medium (2.25A) for our sheepdogs in the van, so I really only have about 3A to work with to charge. If I can get a solid 8h worth of good charging light, that's about 24Ah useable per day. As you could see, I'd really do well with a second panel. As it is, it's been just sufficient with one panel to mostly keep me topped up, since I haven't had a ton of hot weather where we've really had to run the fans a lot.
  
  If I added a second panel, I'd have roughly 8A to charge with even with that fan running, and could reliably charge my bank all the way with only about 4h of good, full sun.
  
  I know that's a bit long, but hopefully it'll be a help to get you going in the right direction!

Thank you all for the constructive comments! I apologize for having confusing information. It even took me a minute to compile it with what I thought to be an understandable manner because it even confuses me if I don't go through it in one breath. I'm going to do my best to clear things up.

u/velaazul , Here is a schematic I drew. - http://imgur.com/a/Zldos
Not the best drawing but I did it as I pieced it together, I could try to do another to clean it up a bit.

HouseBatt is the car battery. Batt1/Batt2 are deep cycle batteries. Currently this draft is a two 12v deep cycle battery operation. I still need to spend some time calculating (and understanding) what my daily/weekly power consumption would look like to see if two batteries will be sufficient for my lifestyle. I'm also trying to figure out how long I will have to run my car to charge these.

I don't necessarily plan on doing this under my current build for more than a year so there is room for improvement beyond this. With that said I know it may not be the most efficient setup possible, but I need to get my feet moving forward and make this happen.

Fuses are something I am conflicted about. I've seen instructionals that incorporate fuses, and I've seen builds that don't. I've heard people say you need them and heard people tell me I don't. If I do indeed need fuses put in place I would put a fuse between the Small Solenoid terminal to the alternator. and the 2nd fuse would be from the House Battery positive wire to the Deep Cycle Battery 2.

u/Y_BOT , am I misunderstanding the function of the solenoid? From what I understood it would function independently and control the flow of electricity from the alternator to the car battery and then to the deep cycle. When I turn the key in the car that should activate the solenoid switch to charge my car battery and deep cycle. When I draw power from the deep cycle the solenoid should act as the barrier between the deep cycle and the car battery so I never drain my cars battery when using the deep cycles. In the schematic I drew I have included the solenoid and an alternative- an isolator switch. If possible I'd prefer to wire the solenoid so I don't have to manually disconnect batteries.

u/MythicalMover , I plan on purchasing 8 guage wire, however I have not purchased any of the materials yet. I have written out a list of necessary equipment for this project with rough cost estimates. I'm trying to square away my setup before I move forward with buying what I need. I plan on going to auto parts stores and Lowe's to browse wires, lugs, batteries, ect. Also you've hit on another point that I need to flesh out. That being the load capacity for the solenoid connected to my alternator and then potentially the fuses and their load capacities.

Every time I come back to work on all this power planning it alternates between seeming simpler than I previously thought to more complicated and back and forth between the two.


Again, thank you all for the direction and the help! I will also attach links to a few products I am looking at buying for this project. I use most of these as visual representations though. I want to go to a store to actually see and hold a tool before I buy it to ensure I feel right about what I need.

Might need these: https://www.amazon.com/Plated-Battery-Terminal-Positive-Nagative/dp/B00ORH1W2W/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486148779&sr=1-3&keywords=car+battery+terminal

This is the solenoid that I have in mind. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0064MX7US&linkCode=as2&tag=rvlifenetwork-20&linkId=TL56E2B62BVKAEKJ

2nd considered solenoid: https://www.amazon.com/Intellitec-Battery-Disconnect-Relay-Prevents-Batteries/dp/B00KPR8QAO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4S939F2G73BZBDQ6JZA9

Inverter (though I might up it if I need more watt handling if need be): https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-400-Watt-12-Volt-120-Volt-Inverter/dp/B001RNOHBC/ref=sr_1_7?m=A2VVWG2KXGK6N2&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455953&sr=1-7

Deep cycle battery consideration: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-27m/sli27mdc

8 guage wire: https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV0BNM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1486225382&sr=1-1&keywords=8+gauge+wire

(optional) Isolator switch: https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Isolator/dp/B00EBQOKEQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1486225429&sr=1-2&keywords=isolator+switch

I also intend to protect my wires with conduits. If necessary I will need to buy lugs and shrink insulation to "make" my own wires for this project. Crimping is something I would imagine I could find a friend to help with or get done at a store.

Hopefully I covered everything, let me know if I am still missing any information and again sorry this was all not included in my original post!

I actually just finished going through all of this.

1. I would recommend going solar. Powering your house batteries from your alternator works, but it puts extra stress on your alternator which means you'll have more repair bills down the road.
   
   1b) I have 2 vent fans installed in my roof, and it does wonders on a hot night. Set one to blow in, and the other to blow out, and you'll get some great airflow. Humidity is another story though. Even with the two fans humidity can be rough, but at least its something.
   
   
2. As for battery usage for the fans, the ones I linked you to use about 60w, so you are going to want to make sure to buy enough deep cycle batteries to last you however long you sleep. Two 60w fans running for 8 hours is going to be about 960w. I have 4 35 amp-hour deep cycle solar batteries, which give me a total of 1620 watts to play with, so I can run my fans all night, and still have 660w left over to play with in the morning. BUT, seeing as you are looking to also have a fridge, that is going to mean more batteries depending on the kind of fridge you are thinking of using. A fridge like THIS would only use about as much as your vent fans, and would save you money on batteries. Here is a calculator that helped me out when I was trying to figure out my battery bank.
   
   
3. Charging your house batteries off of your alternator only takes about 15 minutes or less for a full charge. Solar might take a few hours, but its less stress on your van in general.
   
   ​
   
   If you are worried about solar being too expensive, it really isnt. You can get a full 100 watt solar panel kit for $118. That give you all the wiring, a panel, and a charge controller all at once. Then all you need are batteries, which you can get a set of 4 for $250. You don't need those specifically, but just make sure whatever batteries you get, you make sure they are DEEP CYCLE batteries, and not starter batteries.
   
   ​
   
   Hope this helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask, and I'll be glad to help. Anything to help another vandweller so they don't have to go through all the hell I did trying to figure it all out myself. lol
   
   ​
   
   ​

Internet No idea. When I'm out I tether from my phone but I don't have near the data requirements you have.

Bathroom You definitely don't need it in town. Get a membership at a national chain gym and you can use the shower/bathroom in any major city pretty damn easily. Plus, you can always stop by a Starbucks or the like to use the restroom during the day.

In the wild, you might want to add a few things to your cargo area to make things easier. Pour some warm water in this bad boy and you'll have a surprisingly good shower alternative. You could also get a small composting toilet. Both that and the shower are pretty small and easy to tuck away, so even in a van you should be alright toting them along.

Driving: My advice here depends on where you think you'll be spending most of your time. Since you're new to driving, I would definitely advise against getting a larger vehicle if you're going to be hanging around urban areas a lot. If you're planning on spending most of your time in national parks and the like, then it shouldn't really matter.

Gas: I couldn't believe how much money I was spending on gas when I bought my van. 15 MPG doesn't sound that bad, but my god, it is. I don't know what RVs get, but if you're going to be on the road a lot, I'd sit down and calculate out the cost difference. It might be more than you'd expect.

Price: If you're willing to spend $10,000, you can get what you want, for the most part. Even with a small RV you should be able to get a quality vehicle in that price range. You just gotta be patient and keep your eyes open for deals.

Sound proofing: Neither are very sound proof. If you peruse through the posts in this sub, you'll see a disproportionate number of them are on adding insulation. That's because stock, these all have almost zero. Think about someone sitting in a normal car and talking on their phone. Sound transfers about the same amount in a van/RV.

Totally get what you are aiming to do. Although I am older, I, too am in college and trying to defray costs. And, I'm in to vandwelling as a backup living plan and a way to travel cheap. Here are a few links that could help if you haven't already seen them:
About a guy that lived in a van at Duke University, interesting read, addresses a lot of the mental struggle: Walden on Wheels https://www.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495889664&sr=8-1&keywords=walden+on+wheels
If you haven't seen this website, the forums have a ton of info on everything to do with living in a van/car/rv/whatever cheaply and comfortably: www.cheaprvliving.com
And, if you want an idea of a quick, cheap and easy van conversion complete with links to the stuff for it: http://www.vanlifecrisis.com/2015/09/the-320-1-hour-van-conversion.html
I found an older van for $900 a few months back. I'm doing a easy build. Back seats/bench went out. Wood platform for the bed across the back, will be ordering mattress foam to be cut down to fit from http://www.thefoamfactory.com/ Had a few storage bins with drawers to hold my stuff. Camping gear I already have is going in, stuff for cooking, heating, and ventilation. I blacked out the side windows the cheap way, cut out black poster board and put them up with sticky squares of Velcro on the side wells for easy removal, and the back and front areas will get black out curtains that can be closed for privacy.
I, too, tend to hole up and have tendencies towards agoraphobia. I like feeling like I have my "home" with me wherever I go, as this van is also my daily driver. Add homey touches inside to make it feel cozy. Drive out to a park to do your homework, it will be more relaxing. Eat fresher foods, just hit the grocery store more often. Good sleep is utmost important to pull this off, so make that the second utmost priority, mechanics first.
Best of luck!!!

(Links are not an endorsement, they provide a photo and may help you find the product locally. Some little bitch on this sub had a meltdown over that because she wanted to fix the issue today, and wanted to know what to buy locally. Apparently showing her a picture of what the product looked like so she could pick it up at the local bigbox hardware store is a crime against humanity.)

Q:How does one hook up a 20# just for use on a 2 burner Coleman stove?

• If needed, get an adapter to convert your old school white gas stove to propane. photo Using a propane adapter for a white gas stove really makes the stove a joy to use. But Coleman and others make propane only stoves, and you probably have that. White gas is pretty expensive now.
  
• Get a Bulk tank to disposable tank hose/adapter. photo
  
• If storing or using the gear inside a vehicle, I highly suggest a propane locker for the bulk tank. The locker is made so any leaks vent outside instead of into the living area. These are a fixture of full sized RVs. Trailer RVs usually mount the tanks outside too. Many people don't bother, but I'm worth it. Yes, I know a 20# BBQ tank locker takes up quite a bit of space.
  
  If you only use the propane for your stove and have a home base, you can get buy with a much smaller, approved refillable tank. photo The problem with full-timing with this is you can't use the propane exchange cages located at nearly every gas station, walmart, and hardware store. You must get it refilled in person or refill it yourself. (You will also go through the tiny tank quickly if you're heating your van)
  
  I have a home base, and my current setup is a tiny space. I use refilled disposable bottled propane for the stove and space heating. I keep the bulk tank at home. The heater is no longer sold but it's equivalent to the smallest buddy heater. photo I run it for 10 minutes before going to sleep or getting out of the sleeping bag, and for this use it's all I need. But then again I'm not trying to live like this full time.
  
  Q: Can you hook up a hot water heater to the 20# and not have to use electric?
  
  Maybe? I boil water in a pot and use an adapted weed sprayer to shower with. But I'm not full time.
  
  It seems hugely inconvenient to carry around a big propane canister just to lug it outside for my stove every morning, but the cost may be worth it, then?
  
  Yep. I cook on the tailgate when the weather is good. Like I said I refill the disposables before the trip and save a $1.50 each time. Might not be worth it to you.
  
  *I would never fill something like that on my own. Not gonna fuk with propane and blow myself up.**
  
  It requires some care, but it's easy. You just weigh the bottle when empty and write the weight of the tank itself on it with a black magic marker. When the tank is full, just make sure the total weight, minus the tare is less than 1 pound (or less than 12 ounces on some disposable cylinders.) They're actually hard to overfill but you need an adapter and a kitchen scale.
  

Here's a list and example found on amazon for all the major parts. I'll also include a wiring diagram at the end.

Solar Panel $169.99 - 100W Flexible & Thin

Solar Cable $18.99 - 20ft with male and female heads (cut in half for + & -)

[Charge Controller]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QSX0CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $34.99 - 30A gives you room to add more panels

Battery $160 - 100Ah AGM will provide enough power depending on fridge but requires no maintenance

Fuse Panel $35 - 6 circuits with negative and cover

12V Sockets $6 - Get some of these for plugging in appliances and phones. You can buy 12V adapters for almost any electronic besides most kitchen appliances.

Pick up some 10 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store (home depot) to wire the battery and fuse panel to the charge controller. You shouldn't need much since you want the battery as close as possible to the controller. You can buy smaller wire (16 or 18 guage) for wiring outlets/appliances to the fuse panel. 50ft of that should be fine unless you want multiple outlets on the other side of the van.

You'll also need some ATC blade fuses for your fuse panel. You can buy these at a local auto parts store pretty cheap. 15 amps should be enough than anything you'll be pulling.

To connect the wire ends to the battery and fuse panel you will need these wire terminals for the corresponding wire guages you are using. Along with these female terminals to connect to the 12V sockets. All of these can be found at your local auto parts store for cheap sometimes all together in a kit.

You'll also want a pair of wire strippers/crimper for wiring.

This is the best wiring diagram I can find. Most are so overcomplicated. This diagram does not show the fuse panel but you can see the empty slots on the far right of the charge controller where you insert the wiring for that, it's called the "load." This diagram also shows an inverter which is something I didn't go into because you will only need that if you HAVE to run a 110V appliance. I know you mentioned a kettle but maybe you could just install a gas stove in your van and use that to heat water? That's what we use :) Installing the inverter should be pretty straight forward though if you need it but remember you will waste energy going from 12v to 110v so 12v is more efficient.

Hope this can help you (and maybe others) in some way. I plan on making a more in depth version of this guide in the near future along with a video but finding the time has been difficult! Let me know any more questions you have :D

I actually just bought their dual zone fridge for my new van..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VX01P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was expensive and more than I wanted to spend, but I plan to keep it a long time.. It is "VERY" quiet and seems very well made. I haven't used it in the van yet as I don't have my solar hooked up but I'm pretty sure I could make my money back selling ice cream sandwiches in the summer.. lol

The best part is get it on the Amazon Store card and you have a year to pay it off with zero interest.. This is what I'm doing.

Buy a DC powered mini fridge. Running an AC mini fridge takes more power and there is power loss by going through the inverter. A DC powered fridge can run as low as 30-40W. One like this.

If you drive enough (every day, an hour plus) an isolator to charge your battery will most likely be enough.

Since you are only planning on doing this for a short while, you don't need the nicest batteries. Costco has 160Ah deep-cycle lead acid batteries for less than $100. I'd reccomend one of those, maybe two. Remember, you can only discharge your batteries about 50%, so a 160Ah battery actually only gives you 80Ah of capacity. Also, the battery takes longer to charge the more charge it currently has, so the last 5-10% to top it off takes longer than the previous 5-10% etc.

I wouldn't use an electric heater, they are very inefficient. Without a more robust power/battery/charging solution you won't get much use out of it. Consider a propane heater and adequete ventilation. Something like this will provide more than enough heat for a space as small as an F150 bed.

For charging your laptop/phone/devices, you'll only need a small inverter. Remember that with a DC fridge you won't be running it off the inverter. I reccomend getting one 400W or smaller. The higher the Wattage on your inverter, the more power it wastes just by being on, so you want the smallest possible inverter for your needs.

F150's have pretty large engine bays. You may even be able to get away with putting your deep-cycle storage battery under the hood instead of using up space in your bed/living area for it.

I'd highly reccomend getting a small power bank to charge your phone and other small devices. You can plug the power bank into any wall outlet to charge it while you're at work, at a coffee shop, whatever. I have one that is 22,000mAh and I charge it while at work. With a full charge it will re-charge my phone enough times for me to use the phone 2-3 days without worry. With a 5 hour charge (a shift at work) it will charge my phone 1.5-2ish times. This reduces your reliance on your onboard electrical system in your truck, leaving more battery capacity reserved for running your fridge.

Also get LED some lights that run off DC power. It's a waste of energy to run lights off AC through your inverter.

Lastly, do a little math. Let's say you end up with a fridge that runs at 40W. 40W % 12V = 3.33A x 24hrs = 80Ah. Assuming you're running the fridge 24 hours a day you'd be using the full discharge capacity of your 160Ah battery every day, and that's without taking loss into account. I'm pretty sure those fridges will cycle on/off so it doesn't actually draw a full 40W at all times, but keep these things in mind. Make a plan based on how often you will drive, how fast your alternator charges your battery, and how often you plan on keeping the fridge on. I think you'd be crazy to use a standard mini fridge that draws 156W and runs of AC power.

Good luck have fun!

If you've a high budget, think about a small Dometic fridge. We have a big 65 quart one that does Dual Zones - fridge and freezer.
This makes eating real food an option - not simply take-out. You can stick it with good, but easy food.

Hummus & pita. Veggies. Store that awesome Chinese take-out as leftovers. Keep milk cold.

Our big one looks like a big beach cooler, only it plugs in. Uses 4 amps when the compressor is running and almost zero amps the rest of the time. Very easy to keep powered.

I don't remember the link, but it's about a quarter the way down our projects page.

Projects Page

Update: Dometic DualZone

I got the cfx 65 for my 140" sprinter: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-65DZUS-Portable-Electric-Refrigerator/dp/B00SZ7XJ8K/ref=pd_cart_rp_2_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8VA9R0WQ7PWHFTM1TBD4

I was quite happy it came in grey.
You're welcome, glad you found it useful. More info at the blog next to my name.

The Ventline VP-543(Also known as the Ventline Vanair) is under 2.5 inches tall. I know it's 6-inch popup fan, but I think that's the smallest rooftop fan you can find. Of course that's not saying much when the low-profile Maxxair's are only 3 inches...

Another option is to have a super low profile vent(also called "scupper vents" and "canopy vents". Mostly found on australian websites) and attach a separate fan to the interior portion.

Yes I was under the impression clamps should only be a temporary connection such as for when a car needs a jump. Basically all of my stuff is 12v, Christmas lights, Dometic fridge and fantastic vent fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MDXS0U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524704596&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=power+inverter how would I connect something like this to the battery?

Are you really set on solar? Depends on how much you drive but you maybe better off with an alternator connection. What type of fan are you using? You maybe able to go a little smaller than 100 amp hrs. That is a lot for just a laptop/phone/electronics lights.

A good example of how simple 12V can be is this box
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1496277131&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+box+27
It has a few inline breakers (10 amp and 60 amp) in the box for the 12V outlets.

Silicone won't last up there, but can be a temporary fix. Keep in mind you will have to remove it and clean the area quite well when you do the permanent fix. Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant is what you need. I provided the link so you could see the label. Camping World will carry it for sure, if you have one near you. I am not sure if Lowe's or Home Depot carry it. This is THE solution you need.

Always loved that body style. Definitely a head turner. I used Dicor self-leveling Lap Sealant on my Transits Maxair fan, good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lap+sealant&qid=1568246948&sr=8-4

I've read that they are having trouble with the 100 watt version, but I think the 50 watts are still being produced.

I was looking into HQST. They seem to have good reviews and they are cheaper.

Edit: Looks like Renogy sold their raw materials to HQST. I'm not sure what they did to fix the issue that Renogy had, but those who have purchased them seem happy.

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

Alternators give out anywhere from 60-130 Amps, depending on what model came with your van. A single 100W solar panel, laid out flat, is going to produce in the neighborhood of 80W for about 5 hours on a good sunny day, or roughly 400W per day. Even the smallest available alternator will produce twice that much energy in an hour of driving per day.

If you are going to charge your "house" battery off of your alternator, be sure you get a battery isolator circuit that will prevent your house electronics from draining your starter battery. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK

I purchased this book and it was an amazing resource. I had 0 knowledge/experience in anything more complex than switching a lightbulb and it helped me safely and confidently design and build out the electrical for my van

Looks like the maximum amperage of the panels I'd use is 5.7A each. So even if I put two 100w panels up they would only produce 11.4A.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017OMTAV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458266599&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=flexible+solar+panel&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2B3J-Kt2sL&ref=plSrch

Also, 25ft is definitely excessive (I'm in a minivan) so I'd feel fine cutting down the size to closer to 10-15ft. So, looks like 10 guage would be fine for 11.4 max amps at 10-15ft. Do you think those calculations check out?

Also, since one side of each wire (positive/negative) would have to go into the solar controller, would I be okay to just buy one wire and then cut it in half? I'd leave the sides with the male and female mc4 connectors where I expect the panels to go, and the exposed sides where I expect the controller would go. Does that make sense?

I have solar and cook with 2 types of 12 volt appliances: RoadPro Stove (http://amzn.to/1TRVMWC) and 2 Uniox electric kettles (http://amzn.to/1TRVO0C). I think they both draw about 7 A. You can also use them with your engine while driving. (It'd be a waste to run your engine idle to run them.)

They work great, but both are slow ways of cooking. The kettles take about 15-20 min to boil a full load (0.5 L) of water. The RoadPro stove takes about 2+ hours to cook a pound or two of meat, or a bread pan full of water, rice and fixings. But the results are awesome, and there are a lot of cooking videos online, mostly by truckers.

I was going to do an inductive cooktop. It ended up being a waste because I found I wanted a way to cook with less prep and cleanup than using traditional cookware. That was an EXPENSIVE snafoo for me because to run it I needed a 1500 W pure sine inverter ($750!) and a huge battery bank (400 A). I'm still kicking myself a year later!

With the RoadPro, I either cook in foil or a baking bag, or I use a disposable aluminum bread pan. Personal choice. I can do a lot, but certainly not as much as with pots and pans.

I also got a RoadPro crock pot recently (http://amzn.to/1Oq6RKc), but I've only used it once. So far, I'm not impressed. But I'm going to see if I'm doing something wrong before I make a final judgment.

My advice: If you want to use 12 volt like I'm doing, go for it. If you want to cook more quickly and traditionally, get a fuel-based stove. Don't do inductive unless you're going to invest in the battery capacity and inverter anyway for other uses.

When driving, I charge off the 12v lighter plug on the dash board with a small inverter. Like this one. Having two plugs plus USB is really useful. I always unplug it when parked though so as not to drain the car battery. Using this, I make sure my laptop batter is at full charge when I park for the night. https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503271065&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+inverter+to+120v

At night, or when parked for a couple of days, I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503270823&sr=8-7&keywords=car+jump+battery+pack

There are many makes and models of this kind of thing. The one I purchased was on sale at Harbor Freight. I recharge it with an extra long extension cord, depending on my stops/sleeping locations (not too hard to find places to plug in most of the time). It charges phones, tablet, and laptop. Plus, I have something just in case I am alone and the minivan does need a jump, or I meet someone who needs one.

I also use a solar powered light that will also charge my phone if needed. It sits on the dash board to charge up and then I can use it at night. I found a deal on it on Amazon Warehouse. https://www.amazon.com/WakaWaka-Light-Solar-Powered-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B00W6NTLXG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503270978&sr=1-1&keywords=waka+waka

I also carry two small battery packs (great for air travel too) that charge using the USB plug on the inverter. I make sure they are fully powered all the time.

I'm sure other folks have other ideas about how to do this without solar. I'm curious about what those might be too.

I have a 1st generation Odyssey with one of these on the roof. It works reasonably well, but people notice it. I've had a couple of LEOs ask me what it was. I think my next build will have something like this mounted in the floor. It also flows better than the one I have now.

Olympian wave 3 heater. It's propane powered, safe and it's relatively cheap. It has great ratings on Amazon too! I'm think of getting it for my van.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUV1RK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.iUKDbK8Y2ME6

Best thing you can do is something, I spent years whining about how I need to meet a mentor, or figure out how to start out. I then pulled myself out of my pity pile, stopped wasting my time on stupid shit and got down to business. The bottom two are good places to start.

1. Managing 12volts, a good book I am reading which helps highlight electrical systems pretty well.
   
   
2. Handybobsolar very good blog with a lot of knowledge of solar. Read it a few times and you'll start to understand it. Don't expect yourself to understand it on the first walk through.
   
   
   
   

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

Not sure what if your van has rain gutters or if you can get these, but rain gutter ladder racks provide a good base to mount L Bar, prevents you from needing to drill holes, and is easily removable.

I have two of these on the roof of my van and love them: http://www.amazon.com/HQST-Monocrystalline-Flexible-Solar-Panel/dp/B017OMTAV6

I attached them with the strongest outdoor double stick tape I could find, and ran caulk around the edges to seal it from water getting underneath.

RoadPro portable stove if he likes warm food:
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-12-Volt-Portable-Stove-Black/dp/B00030DLEE

Warm water?
https://www.amazon.com/Uniox-Cigarette-Electric-Insulated-Automatic/dp/B00H4OYITE/

USB battery packs (to charge USB devices) are cool too (with flashlights). 20000 mAh capacities are cheap.

I machined some aluminum extensions that I bolted on to these roofrack feet so that I could clear the hightop. http://www.amazon.com/Highland-2006200-Black-Heavy-Carrier/dp/B0002MABL4/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464196496&sr=1-3&keywords=van+roof+rack

Then used conduit tubing for the rest of the frame work. I happened across some really wonderful tubing connector pieces a few years ago that I held on to because I knew they would come in handy at some point and they helped out big time form mounting the crossbeams.

Used angle beams for nesting the solar panels.

I have this one in my Toyota Dolphin, super sippy on propane and doesn't emit fumes like a Mr. Buddy. I also have a carbon monoxide detector/fire alarm mounted and test it weekly. Yes I do vent through the roof vent and yes I do turn it off at night. From what I've heard I may be able to get a month's worth of use from a 5 gallon tank before I need to re-fuel, so much better than using the small tanks on the Mr. Buddy that run out after six hours of use on low heat.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BUV1RK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the reply. I was able to get a look at the batteries today to check the connections and noticed one seems to have been leaking. I removed it and so far the system works fine on the remaining battery.

So I'm thinking it developed a crack OR the leak is due to overcharging. How can I figure this out?

Maybe you can help me answer this question: If my batteries were topped off and then I drove for 10 hours, would my battery isolator be overcharging the batteries? And one of them finally quit?

This is the smart isolator I'm using-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

These two were recommended. I like to look at how sailors work things out. Very simple and dependable, vibration resistant, waterproof setups. Certainly can be $$$$ but it is kind of setting a standard for durability. Marine solar, Marine 12 volt TV. Or for example, ice chests with 6-8" of XPS foam are common instead of 12 volt fridge. Works /Won't break.

These two were recommended:

Weems & Plath The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook 5th Edition

https://www.amazon.com/Weems-Plath-Doctors-Practical-Handbook/dp/1878797131


Managing 12 Volts: How to Upgrade, Operate, and Troubleshoot 12 Volt Electrical Systems 2 Updated Edition

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0964738627?ref%5F=sr%5F1%5F1&qid=1482876085&sr=8-1&keywords=Managing%2012%20Volts%3A%20How%20to%20Upgrade%2C%20Operate%2C%20and%20Troubleshoot%2012%20Volt%20Electrical%20Systems&pldnSite=1

It adds up fast so start small and build up if you find it is necessary. Many people get by fine with just one battery and a 100w panel - the key is to not use electricity for heat or motors and recharge as much as you can from the van's alternator whenever you're rolling. Also if you're starting from scratch, try to get 12v DC appliances (fridge, TV, etc) since power is lost in converting DC to AC.

Speaking of fridges and your healthy budget, spend the $800+ for one with a Danfoss compressor since they will sip power and work like a champ for years. The cheaper ones will not impress you.

The other popular ones seem to be the Olympic waves. They're a good bit more expensive though.

Probably not, the only way to control humidity and condensation is going to be with really good ventilation. You would need to run fans to keep air circulating enough. It does start to negate the heat your creating by needing to ventilate so much. My Mr. Buddy does alright with my vent fan running but it's not a perfect setup. If your set on using propane with a heater that isn't vented to the outside consider the Wave heaters as they are catalytic and shouldn't produce moisture as much I believe. I'm sure someone can chime in about them relating to moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-Olympian-Wave-3-Catalytic/dp/B000BUV1RK

I personally thought this one linked was overkill. I purchased the mr buddy mini, had a 100 sq ft coverage area.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CFRF7I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the reviews say they are very tip-able, but I thought that was way off base. I think they are pretty sturdy.

You can get a manual opening version that is much lower profile and let's you control how open you want it to be.

But as mentioned in other comments the limitation is that you can't use it in the rain and it's pretty unstable on the lid if open while driving.

Personally I would go with the white Maxxair fan because I don't think it is all that noticeable. Plenty of white work vans have stuff on the top. If you really want stealth, get a used ladder rack and stick a ladder on there to help hide the fan and disguise yourself :)

It's a small circular vent fan: https://www.amazon.com/Ventline-VP-543-Smoke-Roof-Vent/dp/B00407CK5W

It's over my shower area where I'll need a vent for the propane tankless hot water heater and help dry out the shower

Ya, I got this maxxfan, and its awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2UU8RSRECPQHN&coliid=I2LUBUXBM72U8S&psc=1

I sat and watched it through a bad thunderstorm in Tennessee, and no rain came in. Love this thing.

I'm nearly finished w/ an audiobook (I can send to you for free if you don't have an audible account already) .

But there was a section close to the end here that really kind of brought that perspective into focus.

https://www.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525449719&sr=8-1&keywords=walden+on+wheels+by+ken+ilgunas

Definitely, but I'll add that adding a relatively low watt 120V inverter is cheap (e.g. $30 300W https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U/ ) - if you might need to run a laptop or similar down the road, just include in a 12V socket today and don't feel like you've committed to 12V only forever. If you're planning on running off shorepower anyways sometimes though, wiring in some 120V outlets may make sense regardless. Certainly in terms of just fixed appliance loads, 12V only makes sense.

Uh, what? I have an ARB 50 quart fridge and that thing was not anywhere close to $150, in fact it's closer to $1000. I got it wholesale from a friend who was a retailer and it still cost close to $700.

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10800472-Fridge-Freezer-Quart/dp/B002Q1INDM

this doesn't even include the electrical upgrades needed to run it for more than a few hours

You may be interested in Walden on Wheels, about a fellow who did a similar thing. It's more introspective than how-to but worth the read.

The various 12 volt (compressor) refrige/freezer boxes are very nice to have. such as whynter; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VX01P2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32EK5L0XBKZE1&coliid=I2O47YYD6MLQLX

This is a good book:

http://www.amazon.com/Managing-12-Volts-Troubleshoot-Electrical/dp/0964738627

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

ARB, Dometic, etc sell rock solid coolers that use very little electricity. Cheaper to buy a very expensive ARB than upgrading the hell out of your full electrical system.

Current solar panel kits are cheap, running a basic second battery or even having a third on a marine switch, is pretty easy. Adding upgraded alternator, dc to ac converter, wiring etc.... just get a solid DC cooler, and not the cheap ones.

ARB 10800472 Fridge Freezer- 50 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q1INDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rYtLzbKHWVYT7

I guess I am comparing a pelican cooler to an ARB, which really isn't a particularly fair comparison.

PS: $200 for a Pelican is a hella good deal.

Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.

Also buy
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG

And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.

As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.

DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F

[MaxxFan 6200k](maxxair 00-06200k maxxfan ventillation fan with smoke lid and manual opening keypad control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nHrRCbC04J1EH)

Receptacle-- you're right on this. A plug is usually the "male" part. Amazon calls the female devices "sockets." Most people I known call the equivalent device in their home an "electrical outlet."

"Inverter" is a standard name for electrical conversion devices.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1536520861&sr=1-1&keywords=power+inverter+dc+12v+to+110v+ac+car+inverter

I stand behind my definition of "wire" and "cable." But I confess I only learned this recently, doing research on installing my solar power system. "Cable" carries more current because a bundle (of strands) of smaller wires contains more surface area(s) with which to carry electrons than does solid wire of the same diameter as the cable bundle. Or at least that's what I was told by an electrician.

http://www.copperwiregranulator.com/gallery/Difference-between-Wire-and-Cable.html

Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472756020&sr=1-1&keywords=endless+breeze+12+volt+fan
55 ah battery
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Exell-12V-55Ah-SLA-Battery-Rechargeable-AGM-replaces-UB12550-45825/186361686
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V Male to Male Outlet Charger Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTOSTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Window Vent Visors for ventilation....

There was a book written about the authors experiences. Would that interest you, I could lookup my history

Edit: No longer mobile and I found it. Walden on wheels https://www.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/

http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-FM-62DZ-Portable-Refrigerator-62-Quart/dp/B008VX01P2

There are higher end ones like engel but they're pricy.

The rack was purchased from amazon. Its from a manufacturer named Highland.

https://www.amazon.com/Highland-2006200-Black-Heavy-Carrier/dp/B0002MABL4/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1518734098&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=van+roof+rack

this is why there is a stereotype of people who live in a van.

I saw in your other thread you need a toilet idea. This thing works great. Keep an eye on the price, I bought mine in the low $20s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIDZLI

Confirmed. Here is the link to it at Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/

Get a $19 continuous duty solenoid (http://amzn.to/2eJkQSO) a $22 50A fuse (http://amzn.to/2eAWFCL) and then don't worry about the other stuff.

Cool, I plan on using one of [these] to isolate the two. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Z9PJN6YB119)

Oh, and does your powerbank have a 12V outlet? If so: https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-01100WH-Endless-Breeze/dp/B0000AY2Z6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAWQYY or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRF7QE depending on which you need.

I ended up getting this -> https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Portable-Lightweight-Self-Contained/dp/B000FIDZLI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1519854320&sr=8-7&keywords=camp+toilet

If I get to the point where I get cold under my quilt I'm gonna get one of these.

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1425953252&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=deep+cycle+battery

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

It didn't post the link. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PTHKMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1425953252&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=deep+cycle+battery

You could. This maxair fan uses a little less than 5 amps on high according to the questions section so you're going to have high drain (relatively short run time) but it's possible.

Whynter FM-62DZ 62 Quart Dual Zone Portable Fridge/Freezers One Size Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VX01P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gZZPCbRSKPP93

Check out this one.

He posted a link on his blog to amazon.

I just got my van yesterday so I haven't tried many 12v kettles. But, this one is high on my list:

https://www.amazon.com/Uniox-Cigarette-Electric-Insulated-Automatic/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=pd_sbs_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00H4OYITE&pd_rd_r=NVWE6DZ575ZZXZZ4613N&pd_rd_w=vN6Vl&pd_rd_wg=2bivO&psc=1&refRID=NVWE6DZ575ZZXZZ4613N

One of these (Dometic RV fridge/freezer, top-opening)

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-65DZUS-Portable-Electric-Refrigerator/dp/B00SZ7XJ8K/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480386758&sr=1-3&keywords=rv+fridge

It's kinda pricy..

Dometic CFX-65DZUS Portable Electric Cooler Refrigerator/Freezer - 61 Liters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SZ7XJ8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e82gzbQNP9S6Z

Actual 12v refrigerators are pricy, but they are the real deal. I'm talking popsicles on 100 degree days.

something like this continuous duty solenoid would work well. takes the idea of having a relay switch and makes it more idiot proof. the last thing you want is to forget to disengage your primary battery from your house battery & wake up to a non-starting vehicle

For sure!

https://imgur.com/gallery/XPhiDGR

I somehow messed up those links on imgur.

Roof rack

Youtube guy

Here is the link for the MaxFan. https://amzn.com/B0050EEO94

It's very quiet on the lower settings, it had a digital speed control.

Why not use dicor lap sealent?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRF7QE/

This is what I used on my maxxfan, been through plenty of storms during the last 6 months. No leak from the fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CFRF7I#Ask

This one? I can't figure out if it goes lower than my current one's lowest setting

I'd say forget what you see on youtube, thats some made up fantasy shit. If you try living on the beach prepare to be rousted every time you try to sleep.

Mosquitos will destroy you, be ready to deal with that. Mosquito netting over your bed area is a good idea(I use a king sized bed sheet and a clothes hanger rope over my cot). Also I have one of these I run if unwanted biting insects get into the van, I just full charge my battery before I go to bed and leave it on all night.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N6BSNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You will need a minimum of two 100w solar panels and a 100amp hour deep cycle battery if you plan to have any kind of electronics. I run a laptop(acer e5-575-338m) two cell phones and a 27" monitor on this all day every day. Once the sun goes down I unplug the laptop from the charger and can get ~6 hours off the laptop battery and the deep cycle will run my cell phone(internet) and my 27" monitor all night with power left over. The 27" monitor uses 28w of power(acer K272HL).

Currently I use this so I can have the panels out in the sun while I'm in the shade:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L6OU74M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Y connectors to combine the panels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753X68PS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This charge controller(I wish I had spent the $200 to get a really good one but it works)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W5NP5JR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with poly panels, did a ton of research they seemed to be the best option for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCCOSV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A couple of these so you can plug in 12v chargers:

https://www.amazon.com/BreaDeep-Cigarette-Lighter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B014RD1OPU/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_2/146-1188812-1452443?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014RD1OPU&pd_rd_r=6b983fee-fccd-44b0-9fce-701243a4c0df&pd_rd_w=Sa4dV&pd_rd_wg=e0mjZ&pf_rd_p=e7de3e41-8621-46b5-8090-e75951bb9b3e&pf_rd_r=JEW1CZD3WQW1QCM9GMDC&psc=1&refRID=JEW1CZD3WQW1QCM9GMDC

1000w true sine inverter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I04A74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

much cheaper 150w inverter(not true sine):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H2XD2DY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Honda generator for when there is no sun or emergency electricity, get the honda its more expensive but I originally had a cheaper generator and it only lasted like 6 months before it broke.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A104214812TOLRTJE6CW7&url=%2FHonda-2200-Watt-Portable-Inverter-Generator%2Fdp%2FB07R1HK2RL%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fkeywords%3Dhonda%2Bgenerator%26qid%3D1567965512%26s%3Dgateway%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA1QT7IAE1TPQ4M&qualifier=1567965512&id=8997328653646739&widgetName=sp_atf

​

You will need a commode, I have tried them all and this works best in my opinion. Use either dirt or mix black water deodorizer in a gallon of water and poor it over the waste. Pee into a separate bottle, combining pee and waste is what cause most of the smell. Then tie off the garbage bag and put it in a gallon freezer bag and store that in a 5 gallon bucket from home depot with an airtight lid. This way you can throw out the waste with your regular garbage.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Portable-Lightweight-Self-Contained/dp/B000FIDZLI/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=bucket+toilet&qid=1567964099&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

You will need the best cooler you can afford, ice is a serious pain in the ass to keep having to get every day. A Yeti knockoff will work and you can get one for under $200 but a dometic compressor cooler/freezer is best, but it will cost you like $800.

This is the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Electric-Powered-Portable-Freezer/dp/B072MLT6QW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dometic+compressor+cooler&qid=1567964655&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Another thing I found very useful is a salt shotgun for flys and other annoying insects(its a never ending battle). They make one you can buy but I made my own instead, you just cock the bolt pump it up and then use a funnel to poor a pinch of salt down the barrel. It will kill any bug you shoot as if it was hit by a mini shotgun.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Crosman-P1377BR-American-Classic-Air-Pistol-Bolt-177-Brown-Black/43989760

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I would recommend a cheap propane burner instead of the fancy coleman butane burners, personal preference but when I had the butane burner I would go through butane like crazy and its kind of expensive. Not to mention you can't always find butane in store but you can always find the little propane canisters.

​

Wet wipes are your friend.

Apple cider vinegar with water works for a diy sponge bath.

Keep a well stocked medical kit

Get a big can of bear spray or two for self defense, just know it won't work on mountain lions. I keep bear spray and a marlin guide gun for large animals(moose/bear) and a 9mm for two legged predators. I have had death threats and all kinds of crazy shit happen so just be prepared.

​

Locking gas cap is a MUST, lost one of my vans due to some asshole pouring water in my gas tank.

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A Verizon phone with the cheapest unlimited tethering plan($70/mo), Verizon has by far the best coverage in the USA.

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I'm probably forgetting something but that is my advice, been on the road over three years now.

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It is going to be hard, extremely hard, you will suffer. Don't expect it to be a vacation, its a survival skill not some pretend shit you see on youtube unless you have unlimited money to spend.

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Gas will be your biggest expense, I spend more on gas that it would cost to rent an apartment. The only way to cut down on that is to find a spot you can stay long term(which is VERY hard, people do NOT want homeless guys in vans living outside there house).