(Part 2) Top products from r/videography

As far as specs go, the only difference is in price and in variable aperture. Variable aperture is something I work with on a daily basis but would be a great thing to not have to deal with. IMO, just an annoyance. Light will likely not come into play because you already can just switch to your 55 f/1.8 for low-light. Other than that, I think it comes down to focal length. Do you want to have the 18-30 range or will you not miss it because you already usually shoot at 55?

I would not consider it "easy" to get good slider shots but also not hard. It largely depends on your slider and experience with the slider. Gentle hand + smooth slider = great shots. I think that it would be better to invest in good lenses, a good tripod, good mics, and good lights before getting a slider as you can make an equally good video without a slider.

Yes, here are some cheaper options. However, I should note that the mic I recommended has a "+20dB" setting that can allow you to turn down the pre-amps in your camera or recorder and get better, cleaner audio. Most other mics do not have the feature. The mic I recommended has a bunch of younger brothers. The rode videomic that I have. Great mic, no boost setting, a bit bigger than I would like. The rode videomic go, no battery required mic, pretty cheap. Some people say it is no better than just for scratch audio and barely better than on-board mics, I can't speak to the claims. I'm not trying to scare you away from it, just letting you know what is out there. The rode videomic micro, a super small mic, more intended for small cameras or smartphones, I don't know how good the audio quality is. Outside of the Rode brand family, there is also the Shure LensHopper that is often said to rival the videomic pro. It comes in two different versions, one with a built-in audio recorder, and one without.

Let me know what else I can help with!

/u/neowng - with an £8,000 budget, you might want to think about an upgrade path to 4K. Sadly, if you buy the C100, you will be limiting yourself to 1080p - which could mean another upgrade in the next couple of years.

Since you're coming from JVC, you might want to look at the [£2,917.17 JVC GY-LS300 Super 35 camcorder] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=301510090765&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) plus a [£97 EF to MFT adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011I2WWQ8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B011I2WWQ8&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) for your Canon glass with aperture control and image stabilization enabled.

Like the C100, the LS300 has built-in NDs, XLRs, dual card slots, a top handle and camcorder ergonomics - but unlike the C100, it has 4096x2160p true 4K image resolution and SDI out - plus it can use its power zoom rocker and variable scan sensor mapping for lossless 1080p digital zoom with prime lenses (as seen [here] (https://youtu.be/0Eq4_hPzQPc)).

It also records to 3840x2160 Ultra High Definition (UHD), 2048x1080 DCI 2K and 1920x1080p HD (up to 60fps).

In addition, it has a flat LOG profile, which increases its dynamic range.

Like the C100, this is an 8-bit camera, but it has 4:2:2 color subsampling and will stand up to grading pretty well.

Here's a UHD file shot with cine gamma (before the J LOG release):

• [“Honmonji Temple” in GY-LS300 by moribun] (https://vimeo.com/139214323) (downloadable if you're a Vimeo Plus or Pro member [if you're not, you can sign up [here] (http://vimeo.com/pro/new?utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=prosubscribe-cj-vimeo-bizlander-300x250-20130424&utm_campaign=7696)])
  
  Here's a nice J-LOG piece from Dan Chung at newssshooter.com:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K J-Log Vision] (https://vimeo.com/138523082) (not downloadable)
  
  And here's a very quick J-LOG camera shelf test at 4096x2160 Cinema 4K resolution from Gert Tetzner at avmediafactory:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Firmware 2.0 J-log ungraded] (https://vimeo.com/140984524) (downloadable for Vimeo Plus and Pro)
  
  A few more examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [GY-LS300 UHD 4K w/ Canon 70-200 and 85mm lenses] (https://youtu.be/QYCdxMrvAoA)
  
  
• [EVS’s test footage for the JVC GY-LS300 4K super 35 Cinema camera] (https://youtu.be/S47dceBcuJI)
  
  ...and 1080p on Vimeo:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Camera Test] (http://vimeo.com/122736335)
  
  
• [Breathing in New Life] (http://vimeo.com/120445118)
  
  A very nice overview from Zacuto:
  
  
• [First Look at JVC's GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/121192570)
  
  A couple of useful reviews from Rick Young's Movie Machine:
  
  
• [One of a kind - shooting with the JVC GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/133929950)
  
  
• [Shooting with the JVC GY-LS300 & Micro Four Thirds Lenses] (http://vimeo.com/136918105)
  
  And two recent reviews of the new features introduced with firmware update v2.0:
  
  
• [Fred Blurton Reviews JVC’s GY-LS300 Firmware Upgrades Version 2.0 by Fred Blurton Productions] (https://vimeo.com/142907613)
  
  
• [JVC LS300 Firmware v2 by Philip Johnston] (https://vimeo.com/150304533)
  
  I have shot with this camera - it is an easy-to-use, very high quality Super 35mm camcorder and a very good value for your money.
  
  Another option, as /u/Darnell _Jenkins suggested, might be a [£6,190.71 Sony FS5 with the 18-105 f/4 power zoom] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018ITN81M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B018ITN81M&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) with a [£54.93 EF to NEX adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DW0EV2I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00DW0EV2I&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) for your Canon glass.
  
  This is a great 3840x2160p UHD camera (no 4096x2160p 4K yet) - with real native power zoom lenses, higher frame rates and better low light performance than the LS300 - but it will cost you over £3,000 more.
  
  That said, the FS5 can produce beautiful images that look like this:
  
  
• [The Wood Carver: A Sony FS5 mini documentary by Philip Bloom] (https://vimeo.com/150015724)
  
  
• [Sony FS5 Review - “The Catman” by Johnnie Behiri] (https://vimeo.com/145925611)
  
  
• [Sony PXW-FS5 Launch film “Free Spirit” by Den Lennie] (https://vimeo.com/138889050)
  
  
• [Newsshooter.com Sony FS5 London anti war demonstration footage - graded by Dan Chung] (https://vimeo.com/147904573)
  
  
• [Iron Works - Blacksmithing with the Sony FS5 by OC Films] (https://vimeo.com/147975548)
  
  Hope this is helpful - and best of luck with your upgrade!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Honestly. I have been where you are right now.

If you want to take this as seriously as possible and become a producer, the thing you need to invest in most is audio.

Cameras will come and go, but a great mic and recorder will go a long way to making your work so much better. I still use my t3i's in productions with my GH4. The t3i is an amazing little camera and you have the nifty figty which is the only lens I shot on for years.

If you want to get a really nice camera that will be a great investment I would suggest a combo of camera + a Tascam recorder.

I have this recorder and LOVE it.

and this Camera would be a great combo for you with the Tascam 70d.

I have the GH4 and it's amazing and the panasonic fz1000 is crazy good with an amazing lens.

Good luck!

I bought and EOS-M after the price crash back when it was new and Canon realised it wasn't selling and I love it - probably the most affordable way to get an APS-C sensor and just enough video features to have some sort of use professionally.

However, that was years ago, and competition has stepped up since then. I'd certainly be looking more at the G6 than the EOS-M now. G6 has:

• an articulating screen
  
• digital view finder (vital for shooting outdoors)
  
• far better ergonomics (the EOS-M's touchscreen is pretty bad)
  
• compatability with a huge variety of affordable MFT lenses...
  
• ... and lots of affordable adapters so you can put pretty much any lens on the planet on it
  
• Better autofocus for stills and video
  
• 1080p60 recording
  
• A higher bitrate than any Canon consumer-level DSLR
  
• Features like focus peaking that you need ML for on a Canon
  
• Less moire
  
• Slightly better audio - still no headphone jack, but better preamps.
  
  It's just a more all-inclusive package for video and you get a lot of camera for your money.
  
  The EOS-M does have a few advantages though.
  
  
• The APS-C sensor gives it better compatability with lenses designed for that sensor size, and it's far cheaper to adapt EF and EF-S lenses to the camera - which is good as the EF-M lens selection is pretty limited and third parties are pretty much ignoring it - plus better low light performance as a result.
  
• Still plenty of adapters available, though they tend to be more expensive than their MFT equivalent.
  
• Canon's colour science is far better in my opinion than Panasonic or Sony's so you'll get a better image out of the camera without having to adjust too much (which is good as the bitrate is so low you couldn't if you wanted to).
  
• Magic lantern is helpful, and you'll get ML Raw - but ML Raw's workflow is pretty damn complicated, especially with the EOS-M where you've got the added step of interpolating out the focusing pixels. ML is still a bit buggy on the EOS-M too.
  
• Magic Lantern crop mode gives you a digital focal extender which is nice, and does give you the ability to adapt some really unusual lenses to it without vignetting like B4 broadcast, or C-mount 16mm/8mm lenses. Plus there's no moire in that mode!
  
• It's smaller! With the 22m f/2 on, it's probably the only pocketable APS-C that's worth a damn for video work.
  
• If I were buying a camera to take stills as well as video, I'd take a Canon over a Sony or Panasonic any day of the week.
  
  So yeah, I'd probably give the G6 a second look if I were buying today unless there were specific reasons that an EOS-M would be more useful to you.
  
  Either way you go, a mirrorless camera isn't a complete video kit. At the very least to make a professional bit of kit out of it, you'll need a Shoulder Support, some way to record audio, a reasonably selection of lenses, and plenty of media.
  

I'm impressed with Gini rigs for shoulder mounts, I bought one on ebay. I still use it (...though I think I look like a dweeb when I sport it, it's just a weird looking configuration). Build quality isn't like Zacuto but it's very solid nonetheless. I have since frankensteined my shoulder rig with a lot of Smallrig and Manfrotto parts (specifically manfrotto plate holders to make going from tripod-to-shouldermount fast, and Smallrig handles because a good top handle is essential IMHO). It's been collecting a lot of dust since I invested in the Pilotfly H2 which is a pretty great gimbal, but sometimes I prefer the gentle shake of a shoulder mount.

Might want to consider getting a good cage, too. I use the Fhugen Honu cage which I have a love/hate relationship with. Having extra shoemounts and the swiss cheese around the board is really great for accessories (...however the shoemounts are a bit off leaving some accessories like a top handle to have a little play, which is annoying. It's not as tactile as I'd hope but it's pretty good (and cheap if you buy used)). The HDMI lock is great for me too, as I shoot everything on an external recorder now.

I made one mistake, that tripod is a smaller model of the one I actually own. I own this one which has a different ball head: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00111V2Y0

I'm sure it's still an excellent tripod for the price and very similiar to the other model, you'll just be unable to use 75mm fluid heads on it down the line (...like the Manfrotto 502HD).

Here are two good options to look at depending on what you care about most.

1. The Panasonic G85 is best for shooting really stable video and captures motion really well. It has really good in body stabilization. The low light performance is fairly good on this camera, but the next option is better for that. Here's a review of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xv2OWv6pWVM I would get a constant aperture zoom lens like the 12-35mm F2.8, and maybe just get a camera body. Keeping budget in mind, I would much rather have the G85 with a good lens over the GH5 with a cheap lens, but that's up to you. The GH5 is an excellent camera, just depends how you want to budget everything.
   
   
2. The Sony a6500 is a good low light camera. This camera will perform better in low light than the Panasonic, but the video isn't quite as smooth, especially when the camera is moving around really fast. It also has in-body stabilization, which is fairly good, but not quite where Panasonic is. It's autofocus is also a little better. Th Here's a similar review for this camera: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3gmhQI6Gi0
   
   For audio, a Zoom H4n lav kit is a good bet. That way you can record everything on a dedicated recorder and hide the lav on the person. I wouldn't want to try wireless, too much can go wrong. This is a better option than the Zoom H1 since the hold switch will prevent it from accidentally stopping recording from a button press. On camera audio is as simple as a Rode microphone. They're all an improvement over the camera's built in audio, just pick something that has the features you need. (Also make sure to put a windscreen on it for outdoors)

I don't think it all looks like crap, it just looks like DSLR footage shot during a live event. That will mean shaky, mostly out of focus, and grainy.

These camera really aren't designed for live event shooting, but you can work around some of those issues.

First, the shaky-ness. What were you using to stabilize the camera? Do you have a shoulder mount, or a monopod that you can run and gun with? The last thing you want to do is hand-hold these cameras. If you HAVE to hand hold it without any kind of support, my advice would be to flip it into 720p/60 frames mode. You can then slow that footage down loss-less and it tends to take the bite out of shaky CMOS stuff. I use this trick for weddings all the time. The slow-motion makes boring activies (like make-up) look more dramatic, and smoothes the shot out.

Concerning the out-of-focus shots, that all comes down to your lens and how you approach your shots. It looks like you had poor lighting in there, and so you probably opened that 50mm up to get an exposure. I know that seems like the right thing to do, but for live-event keep that lens stopped down as much as you can. F5.6 to F8 would help keep most of the shots sharp(er). Compensate the light lost with a higher ISO. You can fix grain in post way easier then fixing an out of focus shot. For my money, these cameras are acceptable way up to 1600 ISO.

With the DSLR at 1600 or so, a more traditional 3 chip live event style camera would probably exhibit the same amount of grain around 12db of gain, and that's still perfectly acceptable. I assume you are delivering in SD on disc, or upload HD to the web, which would smooth a lot of the grain out anyway.

I might recommend this shoulder mount. It's plastic-fantastic but for $23 bucks you really can't beat it. Unless you break it, like I did, but for such a low price to replace, who cares?

A sharper, constant aperture kit lens might help with some of your out-of-focus shots. I think the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 is a great lens for Canon DSLRs and can be usually be caught as a deal of the day cheap, or for around $325 used and in good condition.

Just keep shooting, you'll get there.

I would ask for gift cards, i.e. Amazon and B&H, or money. You can save these up and get nicer equipment or build your own rigs. But a nice Tripod can make a huge difference. But honestly, it all depends on what you film. Such as me, I often shoot on locations so lenses with a faster aperture do more than a set of studio lights. Here are my recommendations for basic stuff to ask for Christmas:

CN-160 LEDs - about $30 (http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/) and of course some NP-F970 Batteries go along well for about another $22 (http://www.amazon.com/Halcyon-Replacement-NEX-EA50UH-DCR-VX2100-HDR-FX1000/dp/B008X9L6ZS/)

Extra batteries - The off-brand batteries work well. I have two and they are great

Extra Memory Cards - I highly reccommend Lexar as my SanDisks don't work insanely well anymore.

Stabilizer Rigs - The Mantis Rig Is A Great Rig for everything (especially starting) and is only $33 (http://www.amazon.com/Mantis-Folding-Rig-Fotodiox-Transformable/dp/B00AUKBV7G) Or if you want to get a glidecam-style I suggest the Laing P-4S stabilizer which is like $275 and includes a bag and weights (http://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Plate-Laing-Stabilizer/dp/B00G3TCYQK/)

And My Best Piece of Lighting Equipment - A Reflector which you can get for like $20. (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/) There's plenty of different sizes, too.

The Panny 12-35 f2.8 is by far my most used lens, and it compliments your friend's 35-100 f2.8 nicely.

I also have the Panasonic 25mm f1.4 which is a great lens - there's no OIS, which is a downside for a lot of people but if you have a steady hand or a tripod you're ok. I use this a lot on weddings. You could by the 25mm f1.7 for sightly less.

The next lense I'll be buying is the Voightlander 10.5mm f0.95 - it's pricey but a fast wide lens is something I've been looking for for awhile on the m43 system. Voightlander has a variety of f0.95 prime lenses compatable with your sytem - I think a 25, 35, 50 and 80mm IIRC. Had I not alreaday had those focal lengths covered I may have picked one of those up too.

for only $80ish bucks this 9mm BLC (body lens cap) fisheye lens is awesome. Lot of people overlooking it. It's locked at f7 but that's not an issue since I am ususally shooting with it during the day or timelapsing with it in low light with a slowshutter (great for wedding or even timelapses - like this one of mine). I keep it on my camera instead of normal lens caps.

Similar I'd recommend looking into some older lenses and using an adapter. To cover my longer focal lengths I use an older Zeis 50mm f1.4 prime from my analog photography days - it's effectly 110mm with the crop factor.

For extremely cheap ($10-$50 bucks on ebay) you can buy c mount tv lenses. Almost all are f1.4 and have a real milky dream like look to them. They can be cool - check this video out for an example HERE. 16mm lenses can be converted aswell but they'll be way more money.


All my suggestions by the first two are fully manual lenses. That's not everyone's thing sometimes FYI, but I feel like those people are more from the photography side of things. I basically shoot the same stuff you do from the sounds of it - concerts, music vids, commercial stuff, weddings. etc.

The exact setup that i decided on when i first bought my equipment was a G7, sigma combo, and Sachtler Ace M. Very solid stuff.

Honestly, i just went with this guy: https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S. The reviews were surprisingly good, and for that cheap there's no reason why you shouldnt have it in your kit. It's super compact and you can even take your hands off the rig and it stays up. I'll be honest, i've used it maybe once, but that's because i really dont like shooting anything handheld or with a shoulder rig. I guess you have to ask yourself what you want a rig for? I'd rather just keep my shots on a tripod.

If i had a blackmagic, sure! I'd throw it on a rig. But with these tiny bodied, cameras with the jello-ey shutter and strong video look that they have...i stay far away from that look.

I also dont know that i'd ever use the 50mm on a shoulder rig. The longest i'd probably go is the 35 end of the 18-35mm. Depending on what you're doing, i don't know that a cage is a good investment. Especially since you might want to get a cage made specifically for your camera, and if you're planning on upgrading your G7 like i did, you dont want JUST a G7 cage.

Note: i also somehow managed to find a Camtree Hunt GH4 cage on ebay for $120. It's amazing quality, and i don't know how i got it that cheap because now i can only find them (or the varavon similar ones) for like $350. Either way, they're good quality for the price.

You need something with a lot of zoom range, and the ability to slow motion down dramatically, without jumpy frames. The cheapest way to do this is with a DSLR.

Canon cameras do 60 frames per second, but only at 720p (which might be fine for what you're trying to do).

The GH3 can do 60 frames at 1080p, which is great, but you're going to blow your entire budget on the camera alone.

My recommendation is a t4i, and a kit lens, and an additional zoom. The low speed of the lens (meaning not good in low light) shouldn't be a problem if you're filming out on the golf course during the day.

I think the most important purchase you're going to make is a tripod that can let you get VERY low to the ground. I recommend the Manfrotto 055xPROB, sold here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UMX7FI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_yKzTrb1FF869D

If you don't want to futz with separate audio systems, get a Juicedlink box, mount it under your camera, and run your lavalier mic into it.

Also, you must invest in a light-reflector. They are very cheap, and will make your videos look a thousand times better, by filling in the strong shadows that the sun makes. Seriously there is no reason for not buying one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_YMzTrb0GDSEDR

Follow my advice. All this stuff will keep you under-budget, and gives you some expandability if you're happy with it. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Good luck!

Get a t2i on eBay or amazon for cheap. I see good condition bodies go for under 300 all the time. Get an 18-55 lens with it too if you think you'd like one. After all, they're cheap as dirt and have IS.

Get a vintage Nikon 50mm f1.8 and get an adapter. I own 2 Nikon 50mm f1.8s and the Canon 50mm f1.8, and I prefer my Nikons. The glass is better. But if you want to buy only modern lenses, the Canon 50mm is not bad by any means. I love both.

Don't forget a tripod. This one seems to be pretty good for the price for DSLRs. Stabilization, lighting, and audio are the three main overlooked things that will make you seem unprofessional.

For audio, look into getting a used Rode Videomic. They can run you anywhere from 50 to 100. It all depends on whether you're willing to wait or not. Another option, depending on your uses, would be a Zoom h1. Just find out what would be best for you.

An LCD Viewfinder is super handy, especially if you plan on doing handheld shots and don't wear glasses. But if you do wear glasses, I'd still highly recommend one. I use this one. They'll run you around 50$, but you can also get generic ones for, like, 15$ and up.

These are just recommendations. Do some research, find a kit that works for you, and good luck.

Hi /u/gentlemen2bed - I would not get either a camcorder or a DSLR. With an £800 budget, if you want to produce videos like this:

Travel Video

http://vimeo.com/88543042

http://vimeo.com/86145944 (shot with a power zoom lens)

Short Documentary

http://vimeo.com/73561266

http://vimeo.com/87978429

http://vimeo.com/78507820

Music Video

http://vimeo.com/88584840

http://vimeo.com/84436275

Slow Motion/Sport

http://vimeo.com/76503135



...I recommend you get a [£349.99 (body only) Panasonic DMC-G6 DSLM (mirrorless) camera] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321361307155&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), with a [£177 14-42 Power Zoom lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=331159594681&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg). All of the videos above were shot with this camera.

The G6 has a large sensor and interchangeable lenses like a DSLR - but it also has a built-in electronic viewfinder, fast video autofocus and is compatible with power zoom lenses, like a camcorder.

It also has manual audio gain control and on-screen LED meters for sound. You can plug professional XLR mics like this [£159 Rode NTG2] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) into it with a [£22 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and a [£16 Polaroid shock mount] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008D5HW4G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B008D5HW4G&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21).

I started out shooting video with camcorders and DSLRs, but I have given them up for Panasonic DSLM cameras. They really are the best of both worlds.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

• You aren't going to be able to buy all of this gear with $2000-3000.
  
  
• Watch this video. This is the mother of all travel videos.
  
  • This video was shot with a Lumix GH3, a 12-35 f/2.8, a cheap telephoto zoom (14-140 I think?) and a Nocticron 42.5mm. No Ronin, no drone, no IBIS, etc.
    
    
• A Ronin is a hassle to set up, really cumbersome, and not suitable for the run and gun type of style that Kolder and Alveraz make. The closest thing that I can think of which would be run and gun-ish (but you still don't need) is the Zhiyun Crane which goes for around $600.
  
  
• Personally: I see that you have $3000 available, so my first inclination is to say get the GH5 with a 12-35 f/2.8 I (the $600 version). The dual-IS doesn't make a huge difference, the GH5's IBIS is good enough. Then buy a nice Tiffen variable ND filter, step-up ring, maybe one of those Tascam audio recorders for nat sound, and save up for the 35-100 f/2.8.
  
  Broken down:
  
  
• GH5 - $1997.99
  
  
• Lumix 12-35 f/2.8 I - $699
  
  
• Tiffen ND filter - $129.99
  
  
• Step up ring - $9.95
  
  
• Tascam portable audio recorder - $99
  
  
• Total: $2935.93
  
  I will end on this note: You like these videos because they are well shot, well composed, and well edited. I could hand you the best camera system in the world and you're going to make a shitty video if you don't know how to use it. Whereas I could hand a great cinematographer a crappy camera and he'd make something awesome. It's more about what you shoot than what you shoot with. With that in mind, the GH5 is fucking awesome (I just got mine) and it's a great tool to learn on and grow with.

Yes, a good mic will definitely help. The best way to get good audio is to just get the mic closer - even a $1000 microphone will sound awful if it's not close to your subject. Because of that, I'd recommend picking up something like the £52 Rode SmartLav+ and connecting it to your phone with the 3.5mm > Lightning adapter that comes with the iPhone 7.

If getting the mic close to your subject isn't possible, the Rode VideoMic Me is around the same price as the SmartLav+ but clips directly to the phone. It's supposed to plug in to the headphone jack of the phone and hang off the side of the phone, but people have gotten it to work with not much hassle on the iPhone 7.

I hope this answers your question, if you have any more please feel free to ask.

So a few months ago, I gave myself a budget of $5000 for everything I’d need to be a One Man Video Army. Besides an empty Lowell hard case and a pair of headphones, I had nothing in the picture above before commencing the buying spree. The grand total ended up coming to around $5500 or so but I’m pretty stoked to have stuck fairly close to my initial budget.

Here's a detailed list of everything in the picture above:

ITEM | WHAT I PAID | COST NEW | LINK TO BUY NEW
:-- | :-- | :-- | :--
Panasonic GH5 w/Rode Videomic Pro, 2 SD cards and batteries|$1,000.00|$1,500.00|B&H
Lumix 12-35mm 2.8|$550.00|$900.00|Amazon
Mitakon 25mm 0.95 Prime|$300.00|$350.00|B&H
Sigma 50-100mm 1.8|$750.00|$1,100.00|B&H
Tokina 11-16 2.8|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Viltrox EF-M2 Speedbooster|$150.00|$200.00|B&H
Manfrotto 502 Video Tripod|$400.00|$400.00|B&H
Tripod Bag|$25.00|$25.00|Amazon
Panasonic XLR Adapter|$300.00|$400.00|Amazon
Sennheiser Wireless Mic System|$450.00|$600.00|Amazon
LowePro Camera Bag|$75.00|$75.00|B&H
Neewer 3-Light LED 660 Kit w/Fovitec stands|$350.00|$350.00|Amazon
Kessler Slider w/tripod head|$400.00|$900.00|B&H
Hoya 43mm Filter Kit|$35.00|$35.00|Amazon
Hoya 58mm Filter Kit|$40.00|$40.00|Amazon
Feelworld F570 Monitor|$200.00|$200.00|Amazon
Zoom H6 Recorder|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Neewer 5-in-1 Reflector|$20.00|$20.00|Amazonn

Given my budget, there really wasn’t much debate over what camera would best suit my needs. I’m doing a lot of paid corporate and event video work, but I also shoot films and documentaries. So the GH5 made the most sense given its quality, versatility, and value. I can transport and operate all of this stuff without the need for additional crew, which is especially nice when a client doesn’t want to pay for that.

I’ve shot a few films and several paid gigs with this set already and it’s working out well so far. Happy to answer any questions over why I chose one thing over the other. We all have our preferences with equipment :)

Hi /u/Cortexian0 - You don't have to spend that much money for high quality video. For [less than $900 you can get the Ultra High Definition (UHD) "4K" Panasonic FZ1000] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KOUIBZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00KOUIBZW&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). This camera has 4 times the resolution of the CX900 or 7D Mark II and the same 1" sized sensor as the CX900. It is also a great slow motion camera - recording at up to 1080/120p. The CX900 and 7D Mark II are limited to 1080/60p.

You can "crop" a 4K picture to 1080p in the editing suite to make it look like you're shooting with more than one camera - or you can "zoom" to make it look like you have a camera operator - as in this example (please watch at your monitor's highest resolution):

http://youtu.be/TV3mTlTL07g

In addition to its superior resolution, this camera has bulletproof autofocus and is right in the middle of your price range.

Here are a couple more examples of what it can do:

http://youtu.be/MivSKRpLKAI

http://vimeo.com/103562158

This is an amazing 4K video camera for the price. The only downsides are that it lacks a headphone jack and, like the 7D Mark II, it is limited to 30 minutes of continuous recording before you have to hit the record button again to re-start the shot (so if you need hours of continuous recording, this isn't the right camera).

Good luck!

I would buy the PANASONIC GH5 or the PANASONIC GH5S (referral links). You'll find the panasonics deliver a much better experience filming in 4k and have much friendlier filesizes than the canon. the autofocus is also perfectly fine in my opinion for youtube use despite what some people say. the only questions i'd ask are will you take and use pictures often, and will you use the camera in low light (indoors/at night often)? if you're filming handheld a lot and selfie style you might find the GH5 with ibis is a better option.

To be honest I have the GH5 and was filming indoors today at f2.8 ISO 1600 on the 12-35mm f2.8 mk2 (refferal link) and imo it is still very usable for youtube. any of the cameras will work rather well though :)

Afraid not.

Filmic Pro is a nice app for making your iPhone feel more like a video camera.

Something like a RODE VideoMic ME or a RODE SmartLav would help things sound better (which makes a huge difference in perceived quality.

A mount for your phone is handy but a tripod is overkill. Something like this flexible GorillaPod phone mount is pretty handy for attaching your phone to whatever stands you have access to.

Lastly, a bright, high-quality LED panel can give you a lot of control over how things look. This Yongnuo YN-300 is the go-to for a low-cost good-performing LED light panel.

Thank you for this information!! This is awesome! My only other questions would be:

• Does the 32 GB SD Card need to be a specific "class"? Like Class 10 vs Class 4 or whatever.
  
  
• Will this tripod work fine?
  
  
• And will this camera on its own do what I need? I'm looking to keep it simple I shouldn't need to buy any specific lenses or anything right?
  
  Thanks again for all the help. Once I get those questions answered I should be able to order it all up and get going!

On a college student's budget, I imagine something like this would be best:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1469684126&sr=1-2&keywords=glidecam

I haven't used this unit, but the reviews are positive.

Even still...an effective 56mm focal length feels a bit narrow for this kind of thing. I'm not an expert with the things, but I've typically seen between 20mm - 40mm used more commonly. And there is definitely a learning curve with glidecam-like stabilizers.

If your budget is higher then you could try out the DJI Osmo, an all-in-one camera and stabilization device for $500-ish. The footage it produces isn't amazing, but it stabilizes well and has a wider 20mm-equivalent focal length.

mexicojoe is right, though...you could use a tripod. Mounting a camera to a tripod and carrying the rig by the legs will give you a steadier shot than handheld thanks to the added weight. But it will still be very very shaky at 56mm.

My go-to lens right now with the a7s is the Canon 24-105 f/4 L.

I previously shot exclusively on Rokinon primes with my Canon 7D since I was always running into lowlight situations for event coverage. But the a7s being the lowlight monster it is, there's really no point in carrying around 3-4 different primes at one time and constantly switching out when I have all those focal lengths available in one really great zoom. Also, the image stabilization is extremely helpful. I shoot pretty much 100% handheld with the 24-105 and my footage (motion-wise) looks better than it ever did with my primes + monopod.

If you wanted to get a feel for what your footage would look like, you can check out this video. I shot all of the b-roll at the beginning of it with the 24-105 and my a7s. The singing portion starting around 1:12 was shot with Rokinon primes so you can just ignore it from that part onwards.

https://vimeo.com/120457369

password: lindalindalinda

You can probably snatch a good version of the lens for around $600. A lot of people are buying up 5D and 6D packages these days that come with the 24-105 as a kit lens. It's possible you could get a new one for around that price. My used copy has worked well for me though.

And I know the metabones adapter seems like the more legit option but most other a7s users I've encountered, myself included, prefer the Commlite Adapter over it. Only $100, works like a charm, and there's no need to mess around with firmware updates. Only problem you may encounter with it is light flaring more than usual. Personally though, I think it looks cool. But there are ways to insulate the adapter to get rid of it.

If you think you still need some 3rd or 4th opinions, feel free to head over to the Sony A7s Cinematography & Video User Group or the Sony A7S Video Shooters Group on Facebook. I'm sure they'll have much more insight to offer.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473713532&sr=8-2&keywords=neewer+glidecam

+1 - Used this with my 7D mk1 and a 10-18mm. It worked well for 80 bucks. My camera was too heavy for it and what I did was buy more weights to put on the bottom. After getting it balanced it was pretty good. But unfortunately the bolts that adjust the balance seem to back out or not hold super snug, I had to adjust about every 45 minutes or I got sway to one side or the other. Then again, my camera was above the weight rating basically.

A smaller camera and im sure this would be a GREAT option. Hope this gives you some insight.

Seconding the kit 18mm as probably wide enough, but if you're wanting really wide at that price range - here's a Samyang 10mm 2.8 or if you don't mind not having as fast a lens (less DoF options and need more light) a Canon 10-18.

My advice since I own the same camera - if you don't have it already get magic lantern installed. If you have trouble PM me and I'll walk you through. It gives you new options with your camera. Second, if you don't have a fast lens, get the nifty fifty - canon 50mm 1.8 and consider getting the new canon 24mm 2.8. These are fast prime lenses that will 1, challenge you to work on framing your shots since you can't just adjust the zoom, and 2, let you open up for more light, practice things like pulling focus, get some 'cinematic' shots with subject in focus and the blurry background (bokeh). Then invest in audio. At the very least a dslr shotgun mic like the Rode VMP or if you have a smartphone you can use, something like a Rode Smartlav. Better yet, spend next to nothing and make one out of a headphone/microphone combo for cell phones like this one. Tons of DIY projects on the web. Buy a really cheap cam stabilizer or make one. Same for jibs. Make a skateboard dolly shot rig.

If you want a nice shallow DOF similar to the 35mm range you'll be wanting to look at the Panasonic Leica 15mm f/1.7 as the closest equivalent (30mm).

If you want 50mm, go for the Leica 25mm f/1.4.

The thing is that the GH5 has the 5 Axis IBIS like the GX85 / G85 series which means you can get some good footage on these lenses which have no stabilization on them.

If you want a full duty zoom go for the Panasonic 12-35 f/2.8 II as the original version does have issues with aperture flickering while zooming.

The Leica lenses are notably sharp and provide a great amount of bokeh given how hard it is to get shallow depth of field on MFT.