(Part 2) Top products from r/vintageaudio

The electrolytic capacitors aren't as critical in this radio.

It actually has a power transformer and a 5Y3G rectifier tube. Most old radios don't have a transformer and count on the electrolytic caps to rectify the AC. Now, it surely has capacitors that need replacing, but the power transformer indicates that this is a higher-end radio. The three-gang tuning capacitor is a nice touch, too. This is a good radio.

As for restoration, you might want to pick up a book like this one and get a soldering iron.

You can order parts from the usual suspects (Newark, Digikey, Mouser), but they have monstrous catalogs and you'll spend a lot of time sifting through the thousands of options. They cost a little more, but I've had good luck with Antique Electronic Supply.

Do not buy the super expensive audiophile caps. They're not worth it and I don't even use them for my audiophile builds. You want to use Sprague's Orange Drop capacitors. They're more than the absolute cheapest, but I've been using Orange Drops for 15 years and they work great.

Electrolytic capacitors are not hard to find. Looks like there are two of them on the chassis (the one silver cylinder and the cardboard cylinder) and you will be able to find the correct values to replace them. Antique Electronic Supply carries a few can type ones if you want to be completely accurate.

I don't bother with complete accuracy - no one can see the innards and I mostly care about having it work correctly, safely and reliably. It's easy to put new electrolytics onto a terminal strip and secure that onto the chassis with a screw.

You will want to get all of the old resistors out of there, too. Carbon comp resistors suck. They change value as they heat up and eventually stay at the new values. I've never found one that was in spec. Guitarists like carbon comp resistors in their amps because they fuzz out and give an interesting tone. There's no place for that in a radio or in hi-fi. Yank them and go with metal film or wirewound. Those are much, much better.

Do not worry about the tubes. Often, all of them are good. These are pretty common ones, too, and you can find replacements if you need them. Antique Electronic Supply carries all of these.

Then you're going to need to align the radio. That means tuning the circuit with a signal generator and a DMM. You can use an oscilloscope instead of the DMM, too. This is a little tricky, so you might want to find a local ham with the tools to do it.

Finally, you need a good antenna. Can you put one up outside? They're cheap and easy. You can make a nice one for $10-$20 in materials, less if you already have wire. Antennas are half the deal with radios. A modest radio will work well with a great antenna, while a very expensive radio will be lousy with a bad one. This radio has shortwave bands, so you'll be able to pull in all sorts of interesting stuff (check /r/shortwave) if you have a good antenna.

Just FYI, you can hook this up to your computer or smartphone using the aux input and a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1564516794&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Note, ultimate fidelity would be better with a dedicated DAC to connect computer/phone, but even using the adapter cable it will probably sound better than anything you've heard.

Just so you know you're not limited to playing vinyl records or something, which are fun but require a lot more commitment.

One more thing - this receiver is only going to sound as good as the speakers you connect. That doesn't mean expensive - there are plenty of vintage speakers in the $100-$150 range that will blow you away. Look for brands like EPI, Boston Acoustics, ADS, Dynaco, KLH, Advent, or just search "vintage speakers" on your local Facebook marketplace or Craigslist. This was a luxury item when new, and will offer a refined, sweet sound quality that is difficult to find in new equipment.

If you're space limited, I would recommend some smaller, newer NHT speakers or just using it as a headphone amp, which many people do, see head-fi.org vintage receiver thread.

If you decide to keep it, enjoy the beginning of your journey into high quality audio and more satisfying music listening. A MAC1700 is a rare and lucky find, my foray into vintage audio started similarly with finding my dad's old Sansui G-9000 in our attic.

Someone in r/Audiophile asked me to give my impressions of the Mac, so here's the overview I gave. . .

Bass: By far the most immediately noticeable difference. The notes that fell into the lower register were thicker when coming through the Mac. I'd call it fuller, but that often comes with the connotation that it was louder or became more overwhelming, which was not the case here.

Imaging: Whereas before I could pick a general area for a particular sound's "source" -- center, off center, at the speakers, just inside/outside the speakers -- it had now become a far more distinct imaging (e.g., the drums sound like they are right there, the piano is a few inches above that). The one negative point I found however, when listening to Portishead's Roseland NYC Live album on the Thorens was that the audience applause fell much further into the background. Perhaps that is a more accurate reproduction, but I missed it sounding like I was in the middle of the crowd.

Mids-Highs: Where I really took note of this was while listening to Queen's A Night at the Opera. Freddie Mercury's voice was so so much more present. As I cycled through a few other songs with power vocalists on them the experience with Queen held very true across them all. High notes were also very tight.

Range: This took a little more to notice, but once I did, I was in love. It seems that my Marantz' internal amp had been cutting off the extra highs, and the extra lows. I was hearing things higher in the upper register, and lower in the lower register -- and to no insignificant degree -- than I had ever before. It wasn't like hearing the bass note extend out a hair lower, I felt like I had gained an entire new frequency band on both ends.

Tone: Here's where I'm a little mixed, and it's something that I never thought I'd be mixed about. The music reproduction was surreal in its accuracy, which is what I always imagined to be what I wanted. Even though the MC250 was tuned to be a more warm tube-like solid state amp, I began to understand what people mean by MacIntosh being almost sterile. I only got the sense of this a few times, but it was there, and was enough to make my ear to ear grin, when considering the other benefits, slip ever so slightly. However, with this sterile accuracy, what I lost in warmth and that certain je ne sais quoi, I was able to gain through hearing absolutely every damn thing that was happening when they recorded whatever track I was listening to. The prime example of this came from a run through of Dave Brubeck's "Take Five" (If you haven't heard it, stop reading and go listen. . . now). Not only could you hear the saxophonist's voice rushing through his instrument (something which I could hear before with the Marantz), you very literally could hear him place his lips on the reed, and when his mouth would release from it, just before taking a breath. I half expected to be able to discern his heartbeat. Whatever you wanted to hear on the track, it was there, and easily isolated by your ears. Listening to old favorites quickly became a game of listening for things I didn't hear before, then zeroing in on it to find out what it was.

Overall: Holy SHIT!

TL/DR: With a Mac solid state, you lose a bit of the warmth and je ne sais quoi that comes with a great tube amp, but in exchange everything is fuller/tighter, and its accuracy would let you hear if a fly shits in the recording studio and enjoy it in its full sonic brilliance.

Here's an overview of the setup I used:

Stereo Rig

• Marantz SR7300 as the processor
  
• McIntosh MC250
  
• Andrew Jones Pioneer SP-FS51-LR
  
  Analog Source
  
  
• Thorens TD-125 mkII w/ Rega RB300 arm and Grado Prestige Green cart
  
• Clearaudio Nano Phono phono stage
  
  Digital Source
  
  
• Spotify at 320kbps

For $25 it could be worth it, but you'll probably want to look at it and/or ask for a demonstration first. Like /u/AmadeusK482 said, parts such as the headshell or cartridge make or break a deal, and if they're missing it could cost you a good amount for a replacement (an entry level cartridge like the AT95e costs ~$50 for example). Ultimately it probably is a step up from you're current TT, but before you pull the trigger shop around a little bit and make sure you know you're getting a clean and functional table.

On a side note, if you're concerned about the amount of wear you're putting on your records, you might want to consider investing in a tracking force gauge like this or this. This will let you see the amount of pressure the LP60, or any TT you upgrade to, puts on your records. As general rule of thumb a vertical tracking force of under 4g is considered healthy, but the ideal weight varies according to the specific cartridge.

Very cool! Let me know how you like it. My gf just got one today at a thrift store for $10! She says it looks brand new, but doesn't have any speakers with her.

Sounds like a dirty volume pot. To be expected, and probably fixable with DeOxit. The wiggly light bulb might require a quick wiring fix, but it could just be a dirty connection in the bulb socket or a wiring terminal.

I recommend Caig DeOxit for cleaning contacts and pots and jacks and everything else. It's WAY better than the Radio Shack tuner cleaner (which left a dust-trapping film,) and much better than the other "pro" brands I've used. The have formulations for gold contacts, for fader pots, and a few other oddments, but I've always just used the basic D5 product. At $15 a can, it isn't cheap, but a little goes a long way, and it's like having a bottle of magical repair elves.

Happy listening!

I'm glad to assist as I'm a fanboy of this type of Technics turntable. I have an old hobby of restoring and collecting Japanese TTs and there's an SL-10 in my collection. I'd love to have an SL-7 too, however I'm falling behind in the "restore" area the last few years.

You will need a phono preamp since the SL-7 does not have one built in, and neither do your Miccas. The sky's the limit on phono preamp prices, however they're a rather simple beast so even the cheapest ones work pretty damned well. To keep things simple for now I'd recommend this one for sixteen bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PP999-Phono-Turntable-Pre-Amp/dp/B00025742A

Assuming the SL-7 is good to go and has a cartridge/stylus with some life left in it, that'll be all you need to make music. Your Miccas have amplification built in, so that's it.

If you do need a new P-mount cartridge, this one is very good for the $27 it costs. It's what I have on my SL-10 because I can't afford high-end carts on everything. Be aware there's a small screw that holds it in place on that little tonearm and it must be completely removed first. It's hard to see, so people have ripped off the entire arm trying to pull the cartridge free.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

Last thing I should mention, there are two plastic ears on the SL-7 that are a failure point, since all examples of this turntable are very old now. They latch the lid to the lower portion, or plinth. Treat them very gently as there are no replacements for them.

Do you need speakers too, or just a record player? If you need both, I'd recommend this setup. I have the same record player but a slightly older version of these speakers. It's nothing fancy, but it's all ready to go right out of the box & in my opinion it sounds great. I'm not a hardcore serious audiophile, so I'm sure there are much better options out there, but they're gonna cost you way more than $200.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008872SIO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00NXAEPDC&pd_rd_w=y7bqO&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=lGFOc&pf_rd_r=RR2Q11QK2JZVHPHWXPCV&pd_rd_r=cc3b9316-4e6b-4706-8fae-f33bd7d9f922&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzN0xVUzZGVDlLS0hQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTA0ODczQ1ZBM0xHQlVZSUczJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MDc3OTgzRFQzVFNHTE5BMFIyJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I personally use the Shure M97Xe phono cartridge, on a 1970's vintage Technics SL-1200 MkII turntable hooked up to the phono input of a 1970's Marantz 2230B receiver. I use a Focusrite 2i2 for analog to digital conversion, hooked up to the Marantz's tape out. I capture and edit in Audacity.

I use the Marantz with a pair of '80s vintage DCM bookshelf speakers in nearfield fed audio from my desktop computer's soundcard into the receiver's tape monitor circuit.

The Marantz was a thrift store find that I cleaned, adjusted and replaced the capacitors in. The DCM speaker's woofers were refoamed with Simply Speakers refoam kits as well as the capacitors replaced in the crossovers.

The Technics turntable has a modern cartridge installed as most vintage phono cartridges would be a downgrade. Fresh manufacture is your friend here as the rubber suspension would be suspect on a new old stock cartridge and the diamond styli wear out, ruling out used cartridges with unknown use and wear (my vintage records are more important!). I also replaced the cue light on the Technics and repalced the DJ style platter mat with a more appropriate Technics OEM mat.

For my time and effort of restoring my vintage gear, I find it sounds better than entry level audiophile gear. It also is easier to service (for me) and looks just cool (IMHO).

Yep, all inherited, along with a Shure SFG-2. I didn't know how to use it, but it was pretty evident after reading the manual. I think I scaled it to about 1g or so, anyhow lower than what the manual said. Both of my cartridges still had the original packaging and documentation that cam along with them. One is a Micro-Acoustics 2002e and the other is a Grado Series "8". :)

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

• DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)
  
  
• clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp
  
  
• variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one
  
  
• 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind
  
  
• desolder braid
  
  
• rosin flux
  
  
• contact cleaner
  
  
• (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]
  
  
• flush cutters
  
  
• solder sucker
  
  
• shrink tube of various diameters
  
  
• 92%+ isopropyl alcohol
  
  
• windex
  
  
• q-tips
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• needle nose pliers
  
  
• nice set of phillips head screwdrivers
  
  
• standard screwdriver
  
  
• miner's headlamp
  
  
• digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly
  
  
• printer for printing service manuals
  
  
• heat gunor hair dryer
  
  
• canned air
  
  
  EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
  
  All I can think of right now.

I had a good friend recommend the Shure M97xe http://www.amazon.com/Shure-M97xE-High-Performance-Magnetic-Cartridge/dp/B00006I5SB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409524694&sr=8-1&keywords=shure+m97xe+cartridge

Opinions?

Jim knows what you're looking for, OP.

I've found the parts you'll want to get as well. It's definitely a real budget set up, but it'll get you started.

Phono preamp

Patch cable (from phono to iHome)

Just plug the turntable into the phono input, then use the patch cable to go from the phono's output and into your iHome, and you're good to go.

If you wire the speaker outputs to the 1/4 inch inputs on the interface you will probably blow something. The headphone output would be the best option. You could use a cable like this directly.

Yeah I'm super excited about it! Quick question, if I want to try and use the SL-7 with a pair of Micca PB42X speakers I already own what would I need? They look like they have phono input, but I'm not sure if I need a phono preamp and an amp or not.

An amazing resource.

https://www.amazon.com/Goldwood-GW-8028-Butyl-Surround-Woofer/dp/B0002ZPSKU

this was what I saw as a "recommended replacement" and yeah, originals were very expensive. ~80 for one. way to far from what I want to spend

I have one of these

I found it at a goodwill for $10, figured it was worth a lot more, but I never ended up getting any hoses for it.. I wonder if it's even powerful enough to blow air really hard

https://www.amazon.com/Cooling-EURPMASK-Adjustable-Cross-Flow-Function/dp/B07TWK3KBN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=M1F48ILNEOEH&keywords=laptop+fan+cooling+pad&qid=1574734740&sprefix=laptop+fan%2Caps%2C355&sr=8-5

This should helps :D

I'm going to use these items to feed my powered sub:

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465604364&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+mixer+rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S66QNA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i'm not super worried about distortion from low quality components if i keep the line level low and the subwoofer gain high. noise will be negligible because the sub can't reproduce hiss anyway. i also use acoustic suspension speakers and have fairly flat bass response already, i am mostly interested in this for frequencies below 40hz.

Thank you so much! I am looking at the Audio technica AT92ECD in this link: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419799964&sr=8-3&keywords=phono+cartridge I dont suppose there is any way you could tell me how to install it in the head? There dont appear to be any holes to screw it in.

Something like a three-pole toggle (using the middle position as OFF).

or you could buy one

http://www.amazon.com/Niles-DPS-1-Black-FG00003-Audio/dp/B00006HOFR

The phono inputs are called "RCA" inputs. I would start there and get something like this.

Do you think this would work for the speaker that's missing its connecting screw?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KQZU2/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1468437796&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=terminal+binding+post&dpPl=1&dpID=511p%2BIdLgHL&ref=plSrch

Too bad you don't have internet access. Ebay, Maxell Amazon, Sony Amazon.