Top products from r/watercooling

We found 154 product mentions on r/watercooling. We ranked the 892 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/watercooling:

u/ImCodeGreen · 1 pointr/watercooling

Thanks for the tips!

I'll try my hand at hard-line much later down the line when I'm comfortable with watercooling and the maintenance that goes with it.

I'm still thinking about that 140mm rear radiator. I feel like adding that would make for too much clutter/tubing everywhere. I want to make good use of the space I have, but not to the point that it's super tight. Visually, less is more as they say. Besides, would one slim single fan radiator really do much for me? The case has shoddy airflow as it is, so I figured one unobstructed path for air to pass through would be good to have.

Fans are good performance for sure; I was more concerned that I'd have to go with high RPMs because of the bad case airflow, and the industrials can get noisy so I hope low RPMs will work.

This sensor form Phobya is nickel; does that one work as an extender, essentially? Seems like it's broken for some people according to Amazon reviews. The plug sensor I originally linked is chrome so because of that, it won't work with the metals in my loop?

The tubing comes with sys-prep pre-treatment which was part of the reason I wanted that bundle. I'll probably buy regular distilled water anyways (for radiator cleaning) so might as well just mix some with utopia or whatever people recommend. Or is it worth using pre-treatment? If not, I might go with cryofuel and use that but I'll still get distilled water anyways for flushing the radiators.

I'll have RGB lighting in my case so I'm eyeing the onyx black tubing because it seems like it has a bit of a shine to it. Matte tubing from either PrimoChill or EK won't give that same effect, I presume.

Not counting the 12 regular compression fittings, I've got 30+ extra fittings/adapters of all kinds to go with it. I won't use them all, but I just hope I don't run out of a specific kind. I think I have ~4 of each kind that I thought I'd use.

u/Karavusk · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Note that I will see this as a 5000$ build, some stuff that is fine for 2000$ has no place in a 5000$ in my opinion. So not all of this applies to a normal build.

>2 x LOGISY​S CLK12UV ​12 inch Du​al UV Cold​ Cathode L​ight Kit

These kits are horrible... just buy some cablemod LED strips (they have uv ones too but I personally dont like uv stuff).

>EK-XTOP DD​C 3.2 PWM ​Elite - Pl​exi (incl.​ pump)

NO. NO. NO. NEVER EVER buy a DDC pump if you are going for SUCH a build. A D5 pump is much better and a lot more quiet. Sure they are both good pumps but mainly the DDC pump costs a little bit less and is smaller, something you really dont care about in this build.

> 2 x PrimoC​hill 1/2in​. Rigid PE​TG Tube – ​4 x 36in. ​– Clear

Add 3 more, you will need it

>Corsair K95 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard

They released a new version, the K95 platinum

>NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller

Meh... just let your mainboard control your fans and use these fan controllers that just take one PWM input and multiply it like this one

>Corsair SP120 57.2 CFM 120mm Fan

>Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.7 CFM 120mm Fans

Nope to both, buy the new Corsair ML fans, they are much better.

>LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer

If you really want one...

>Thermaltake Core X9 ATX Desktop Case

Kinda dont like the case but that is personal preference

>EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI)

Normally SLI is not really worth it. Right now I would just go for a titan XP. I know they cost a lot buy a single titan XP is a much better experience compared to 2x 1080. Would be a different story with 2x 1080ti.

>Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

I remember 4TB drives being more reliable but that could be wrong

>Crucial MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

Only Samsung 960evo or 960pro. That Crucial stuff has nothing to do in this build and it is a SATA SSD, so about 6x slower compared to the 960 pro and it probably wont even work with your mainboard.

>Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor

Not worth it. Go for x99 and an i7 6800k. You get 2 cores more and a much better mainboard for only 200€? or so more. This is change by A LOT once Ryzen comes out and Intel will probably answer with lower prices and maybe new x99 stuff. Definitely wait until Ryzen comes out and dont even bother with anything that has 4 cores.

While Intels 8 and 10 core CPUs are really overpriced their 6 core CPU is not that bad.

TLDR; normally not bad but if you are going for a 5000$ build you have to change some things...

u/zabzabbo · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Yay, welcome to the club! I've been enjoying my first rigid tube build for a few weeks now and had thoughts. But /u/victory_zero (no angle fitting fist bump) covered the most important ones.

I'll add giving some thought to filling, like draining. I filled by taking the lid off the res and feeding in length of soft tubing with a funnel on the end. It works, sure, but having to pop the lid on and off and hoping the tube stays is kind of annoying. I'd recommend getting an extra soft compression fitting so that you can unscrew the plug in the top of the res lid and screw in your fill tube. (Also maybe get a nice metal plug with the allen wrench head to replace the included plastic plug the lid ships with.. they immediately deform when you try to give them enough torque to stop leaking, they are the worst.)

I'd maybe worry just a bit about putting three good fans on a single mobo header with that splitter. Nice boards will be fine, but some crummy boards only supply a few watts to the header. You can get powered PWM splitters that have a power plug and then split the pwm signal amongst the fans just like the cables. They're not the cheapest, but they're also not outrageous.. and tend to have more headers for the inevitable expansion to more radiators :). Something like

Good luck!

u/DepressedElephant · 2 pointsr/watercooling

You can use this:

Attach it to your CPU fan header and use your motherboard bios or software to setup the fan curve. It's a dirt cheap and effective solution but it is based on CPU temperature which will fluctuate far more than your water temperature.

If you are looking for a better solution that is actually based on your water temperature, the best on the market option is the Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT. You can use that to control your fans and pump speed based on water temperature - catch is that you will need to also buy a PWM D5 pump if you want to control that as well and water temperature sensor. It's what I wanted to do initially but the cost of that compared to simply using my motherboard drove me away.



PWM Pump:

They also have flow sensors and coolant level sensors but I cannot figure out why you'd really care to have those given their cost.

In short, I suggest trying the motherboard CPU method and if that makes you unhappy, cough up the money for their temriture sensor and controller. I personally consider the PWM pump overkill for the P5 case with it's massive radiator, but I can certainly see the value for other setups that need to maximize the cooling performance of a smaller radiator.

u/Klesko · 3 pointsr/watercooling

> What are you using to check water temp?
Using Phobya G1/4" Inline Temperature Sensor

> Is that what's above the right reservoir?
That black box is a flow meter. Aquacomputer G1/4" Flow Sensor for Aquaero

> Also does it have to have two reservoirs since it's all one big loop?

Two reservoirs are not really needed but more for looks than anything. Adding a second does help as long as you have the flow. The longer it takes to cycle water back to the blocks the better as long as flow is good.

> Normally I see the CPU and GPU on separate loops with a component list like this.
There can be benefits to separate loops but depends on the setup. The water comes from the GPUs to the CPU and only gains 1-2c so the difference cooling wise is minor. In my case separate loops would have not looked as good imo.

u/AMP_US · 1 pointr/watercooling

On the reservoir, make sure you account for any fittings and or tubing runs at the top and that you will be easily able to fill your res. You don't want your reservoir to be a "tight" fit". It's a PIA. ~2-3 inches of clearance should be fine. Enough to get your hand in there.

Pump brand doesn't matter. D5 or DDC, PWM or no PWM. The aquacomputer pump is only worthwhile if you have an Aquaero.

Thermal probes are pretty much all the same thing. They look like this. The main application for them is measuring air temperature (intake, case chamber, exhaust, etc). Does that really mean or impact anything? Not really. But like I said, why not.

Same deal with flow sensors. Do you need to know what the flow rate of your water cooled computer is? Not really. It's a nice to have. Here are a couple options.

Water temp sensors are, IMO, the only "sensor" that matters. There are two types, plug and in line. Plugs are essentially caps that have a little temp sensor inside. In line are basically a female to male extension fitting with a thermal sensor. Choose whichever one is easiest to integrate into your loop. This all actually has a point... you want to set your fan speed to your water temp (vs CPU and or GPU). Water is what the rads/fans are cooling. The cooler the water, the cooler your processors. Also, water temp isn't prone to drastic jumps in temperature, so your fans will speed up and slow down more slowly... which is quieter.

Outside of all of this, the biggest piece of advice I can give (comes from my own mistakes), is make your life easy. The biggest point of friction for this is filling and draining your loop. Your pump should be as close to the lowest point of your loop as possible. Another often over looked "make it easy" step is putting your front rad ports towards the bottom of your case so that radiator can drain with gravity (vs flipping your case upside down). I am presently suffering this mistake.

Other tips include using a PWM fan hub for your fans so you can route all your fan cables to one spot in the case (cable management) and so you only have to use 1 PWM header on your mobo to control a set of fans (If you have different brand/speed fans, they should have their own hub and mobo PWM header... IE group like fans together).

u/p1_nt · 1 pointr/watercooling

> Can this controller drive 2 pumps and 9 fans from a single molex power connector

No lol. You're going to want to use powered PWM splitters for the fans since the controller will only drive 4 of them by itself. So just get one of those splitters and run 6 fans off the splitter, and 3 fans off the controller.

The pumps are more complicated since the pump header on aquaero is proprietary to aqua computer, called aquabus. So you need to use their aquabus pumps.

You can run the newer EK pumps (D5 G2) off of the aquaero fan header if you would prefer. But you must make sure you get newer stock since the G2 motors only started shipping about a year ago. Older EK D5 pumps will not work on the fan headers nor the aquabus headers.

But if you're spending all this money I would just spend the extra $50-100 on the aquabus pumps, and then just get the EK top, or whatever dual top you would prefer, or just connect them with hose.

> Are my sensors correct for the size of tubing I'm using?

Tubing size doesn't really matter for this, the sensors are just G1/4 which is the industry standard thread size for blocks, res, pumps, rad, and fittings.

> Is there a more "in-stock" brand with more U.S. exposure I should be considering as well?

aquaero is the best solution for this particularly if you want a standalone cooling unit which yours will be. Performance PCs offers good US stock and customer service. I have placed many complicated orders with them and they've never let me down.

u/brutang · 1 pointr/watercooling

Before I tried watercooling, I had slightly higher 3dmark benches with the risers than without. I assume it's either standard score fluctuation, or perhaps slightly better due to more airflow, but there certainly wasn't any noticeable drop as I was kinda worried about. No artifacting/fps drops/crashing like I've heard.

I have a sound card behind the SLI setup as well that's nice and hidden with another riser, but they work great.

edit: not using the Thermaltake risers. Using these:
2x 25cm and 1x 9cm

u/justinmai · 2 pointsr/watercooling

The new corsair HD 120s look sick and offer great static pressure but... cost a kidney. :/ As for a fan controller, I would highly recommend the silverstone pwm fan controller ( Amazon ) and software like speedfan to control the rpms. Jayztwocents has a good tutorial on the software as it is a bit confusing at first. Best of luck!

u/dumplestilskin · 3 pointsr/watercooling

Parts list looks good, but I would add a drainage port. Comes in handy if you need to drain your loop. Another thing I would add is this hex socket if you already don't have one. It's for taking the stock cooler off the 1080 and for $4 it's worth it. See this post.

Sketch looks good. A DDC pump will have no problem with that loop. You'll need two compression fittings for each component, and maybe two more for a drainage port.

For me, bending PETG was hard as fuck. I am a handy person and it was my third watercooled build, but I could just not get it right. I ended up using some angled fittings. Some people don't have any issues but that was my experience. Your tubing runs look good.

You have plenty of rad space and your components will stay super cool even at low RPM. I have used this splitter for multiple builds and it works perfectly. You'll be able to run everything at around 25% speed and still stay cool.

u/mastermikeee · 3 pointsr/watercooling

Absolutely. My first and current CPU loop cost exactly $300 in fact (pics here:

The following is exactly what I bought for my very first custom loop, and it's working great so far.

Boom. $300.

EDIT: I would highly recommend that pump/res combo. It's easy, powerful, and relatively cheap. Also if you're not planning on adding a GPU to the loop, you could just go with a 240mm RAD which would save you a few dollars. And the XSPC Raystorm is a cheap CPU block with good performance. Honestly just straight up copying my build would probably be a good idea - but you can change the color scheme as you please.

u/ZeusThunder369 · 1 pointr/watercooling

I think the easiest (although most expensive) method is to use a PWM fan hub, and all PWM fans.

I've used this SilverStone hub for all of my builds, both water and air.

I set it up so that every fan is connected to that hub, and the hub is connected to the CPU fan header on my motherboard.


  • Easiest method of controlling fans. Just adjust through BIOS, or fan control software. It will auto adjust fan speed based on internal temps.

  • Less cables showing. All you see from the front is the one cable going into the CPU header. You don't see fan cables going to multiple different fan headers on the MOBO.


  • More expensive

  • Less selection of PWM fans than DC fans (could be difficult to color match w/o painting).
u/Hookerlips · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Read sidebar, etc.
Use compatibility checker to confirm your choice of card will work with the blocks that you have picked out.
Putting blocks on a card is not that tough.
Always leak test! Make sure you get some secondary psu for running the pump. I use

  1. please really rethink that Deathstalker and tiamat purchase. If you must have razer products, the blackwidow is mechanical and is a much better purchase.

  2. Pump - D5 - read sidebar but all you really need to know. I would personally get one with either pwm or usb control. Vario is also an option.

  3. tubing - size - really doesn't matter as long as tubing, fittings, and equipment are all compatible. Ie G1/4 threads, 1/2" outer diameter tubing and 1/2" fittings

  4. tubing - variety - assume you are using flexible tubing - which i haven't picked up any for a bit ( using rigid now) so ask others about this but there is one without plastisizer issues and that is the one that you will want.

  5. monitors- nice choice, although are you aware the asus rog swift (144hz 1440p ) monitor should be shipping anytime Q2? its going to be a huge step up in terms of lightboost 2, color reproduction ( they say ) and pixel density all while keeping silky smoothness . also gsync

  6. psu - might be overkill for two cards, also I am not sure that the evga is the quietest

  7. also with the processor/mobo, you know that x99 will be out this summer, right? lots of improvements but something to consider...
u/MooseTek · -3 pointsr/watercooling

Nice clean build, I love the whole aesthetic.

However, as a first time looper myself, I would recommend a few improvements. It appears that you put in a bleeder valve and no res and no drain.

Res is a high priority item to keep your pump fed and allow a gathering point for air in the system.

Then you should have a drain for your system and then add a bleeder valve/fill port. A Bleeder valve works great in conjunction with a drain because it will act as a vacuum breaker when draining, and can bleed air when bottom filling.

To add a drain, run a tee off your lowest pump fitting instead of the 90 and set a ball valve and drain out the right side of your case. Put a small 100ml res on the pump incoming line. You don't want to use rads as your res because the air pockets will rob efficiency.

Also, if you are not monitoring your loop temp, I would highly recommend adding a temp sensor.

You can use this:

with this:

u/dang46 · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes the ST30 is the slim version. You should be good with that then if you add your gpu to the loop a 240 st30 would work well.
Make sure you buy the right fans that fit your rads. I noticed you put 140mm fans?
These should fit. Also they're PWM

u/atakagi · 1 pointr/watercooling

It's up to you. You can get a simple, cheap internal fan controller which will allow you to adjust voltage for 3-pin fans(usually it has something like 5-7-12v switch). Or you can buy something like this. It will allow you to adjust speeds of all your 4-pin(pwm) fans through your bios.

But since your case has 2x5.25 bays, i suggest an external fan controller.
Like this. There are plenty to choose from.

u/jereome · 1 pointr/watercooling

I have these ones in my build in push/pull configuration.

Also I purchased my two 480 mm from Amazon used and they work awesome and appeared to be clean and in perfect condition.

Here is one 360 mm radiator for 58 dollars.

And some others from 53 to 57 dollars.

u/DKarnage_ · 3 pointsr/watercooling

Thanks man, I might add more hard tubing... currently I have soft tubing solutions for it leading into the back, but once I drain it.. now that I've practiced bending hard tube for the first time I'm going to reapproach some ideas and bends.

Also psu is a corsair 750 watt plat sfx.. felt that in my wallet but really gives me some extra space for everything underneath from the pump to the cable mgmt. I recommend looking for anything with similar dimensions.

  • below is a copy of my previous post on this build explaining my reservoir and links *

    So its a savant pc 120mm reservoir, I got mine off amazon, but on their website its going for 65.00 and they seem to have 1 in stock right now. Just to let you know, when I first started setting it up, one of the holes was not cnc'd out. So I only can put in 3 screws at the moment into the back (currently only using 2 with half a bracket), granted I would drill it out myself if I really needed it, but be aware. Also I'm using a xspc radiator bracket, I've linked the things below for you, not many people make square 120mm reservoirs, the only others ones I know of are the Sollertia Reservoirs or the radikultcustom ebay store. Hope this helps

    reservoir -

    bracket -

    This guys store once he is back from vacation is worth a look -
u/davidkscot · 2 pointsr/watercooling

As you said plugging the pump into the CPU OPT fan might be a better idea as it will let you monitor the pump rpm separately from the fan rmp.

The Phanteks hub only sends the rpm signal from the number 1 socket back to the Motherboard, if you have the pump there then you won't be able to get any reading for the fan speed.

Having said that, the Phanteks hub is for 3 pin fans, not 4 pin if I'm correct. I don't know if it will work properly with a pump or fan which needs a PWM signal. Yes, it works off a 4 pin PWM signal but I'm not sure what it then does to control the fans, does it convert the PWM signal to voltage regulation or does it actually pass on the PWM signal ... I think it uses voltage control as the PWM signal is usually sent over the 4th pin which is located away from the guide slot on the fan plug. Looking at the Phanteks hub it looks like these pins are the missing ones, so it couldn't be sending a true PWM signal.

Your pump might still work but the PWM part might not, so it may just run at min speed or max speed and not change speeds.

It is possible to get true PWM splitters (e.g. which will send a PWM signal to multiple fans, but the Phanteks hub isn't one of them as far as I know, sorry.

u/ipu42 · 1 pointr/watercooling

You would want to double check on how much power each fan draws and the max output of your motherboard fan head. I think most quality mobos can easily support 3-4 fans. If you want to control more you could get a basic fan controller like this.

u/n00blets · 1 pointr/watercooling

I appreciate the kind words and am flattered by the idea of being a source of inspiration having been inspired myself. I think that the attention to detail came from a prioritization of form over function. There are subtle hints to this fact scattered throughout the build, the most obvious of which is using the GPU waterblock outlet as the inlet. While the reverse flow through the block will probably cost me a degree or two in terms of performance, it also allowed me to shorten up my runs and stick to the minimalist aesthetic.

As for your questions, the tube cutter and chamfer tool were part of a hard tube bending kit manufactured by Thermaltake. I originally got it for the bending mandrels, but the radii on the bends were too wide and I ended up getting tighter bends doing it by hand. I do live Stateside so most of the loop components were ordered through Performance PCs, MAINFrame Customs (EKWB vendor), and Amazon with the exception of the GPU waterblock and backplate which came directly from EKWB. While I can't speak to the quality of Cablemod cables, I can say that Ensourced provides artisan quality paracord sleeved cables. Based on my observations over time, they seem to be held in high regard and their price seems to reinforce the notion of premium quality.

u/FastRedPonyCar · 1 pointr/watercooling

Ok. If I wanted to stick with an all in 1 res+ pump, would something like this be ok if I combined both loops?

And for the GPU's, I would get that double thick 140mm that I listed in the OP and another single 120mm rad.

Or is there any real benefit to physically separating the pump from the res? I'm just approaching this from a simplicity/efficiency standpoint. The XSPC optical bay mounted res and pump combo has been really nice in that regard.

u/grintar · 2 pointsr/watercooling

always do this, at least in my opinion. the tool that they sell for it costs like 10$. its pretty easy and gives me ease of mind.

you can check it out here

u/codepony · 1 pointr/watercooling

I've been using one of these for many years now, different brand than I have, but it's exactly the same thing. Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter. It's useful for testing other stuff too, like fans and lighting, as well.

u/mdmcgee · 1 pointr/watercooling

I used it for PETG and it worked perfectly. Nice clean cuts and it did not scratch the surrounding material. I can't tell you how well another cutter will work but the one I linked did me well.

For chamfering the outside of the tube, I used this:
You can certainly pick up equivalent, if not identical tools from performance-pcs and elsewhere.

I did not have any burrs to remove as the cutter didn't create any, but you still need to round the outside edges before fully inserting them into your fittings.

I used the Bitspower 16mm PETG ( and EK fittings for both of my systems. I can of course only vouch for my personal experiences.

u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/watercooling

This is great for filling and re-filling your res with a top entrance.

This is a nice item to have for powering on pumps without a PSU.

I used these to cut and clean my PETG tubing.

u/KatsumiChan1 · 3 pointsr/watercooling

JayzTwoCents did a video of how he controlls them, very easy actually.

I'd recommend getting some PWM splitters or a PWM fan hub I use the SwiftTech
cheap and works well.

u/1YardLoss · 5 pointsr/watercooling

You need petg (or acrylic) compression fittings along with a heat gun (to bend the tubes), a rubber piece (to put in the tube to you can bend them properly), a cutting tool, and some people use a tool so you can shape right angles or certain degree angles. Something similar to a set like this:

(I am NOT promoting this kit! But those are tools you need, or tools similar that do the same thing). Best of luck!

u/MotTheBarber · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Please take all of my comments with a grain of salt. I have only had a water cooling setup for about 3 months.

Extra Coolant: This is good to have if something bad happens. For instance, if you find out you have a leak and you need to drain your loop to fix the problem. You would want to have some spare coolant on hand to refill your loop.

Extra Tubing: I think EK puts 2 meters of tubing in the box which is plenty for what you are looking at doing. I bought an extra 3 meters of tubing with the kit and ended up using about 3 meters out of the 5 meters total. My loop is slightly more complicated with an extra radiator and GPU waterblock. It is also nice to have extra tubing on hand to help drain and fill your loop.

Temp Sensor: This one would be my lowest ranked recommendation. I found myself constantly comparing my temps to other peoples after I put my loop together. Knowing the temperature of your loop water to ambient room temperature (Delta T) is a key element in determining how well your loop is absorbing heat through the water blocks and releasing heat through the radiators. I ended up replacing my three way splitter with a four way about 2 months after I initially built my loop to add a temp sensor. I just think it would be really cheap upfront to add the extra plug for another 3.85 and upgrade the 3-way to a 4-way for maybe another 1.00. This way if you wanted to add a sensor in the future it would be really easy to do.

Temp sensor with LCD display
Stand alone plug temp sensor

u/HuhhDoe · 5 pointsr/watercooling

Nice! i wish you luck. I’m using XSPC ECX Ultra Concentrate Coolant, Blue UV which is a dye, but i’ve also used premixed UV coolant before! like Mayhem’s Pastel UV colors

u/PaintballerPewPew · 2 pointsr/watercooling

If you're cutting into something like PETG I would recommend a kit like this, especially if you're new to rigid tubes, cutting and bending. (it comes with several useful tools including a well-made pipe cutter, silicone insert, mandrels to help with bending, and a reamer to clean the edges of the tubes). It's a bit pricey but worth it imo.

u/Quasimotherfucker · 1 pointr/watercooling

yeah, I asked because that one looks almost exactly like the one EK makes for their Power Spec Fluid Gaming case on amazon. Too much money, especially since it's just an aluminium rad. Thanks for the tip, though, I hadn't seen bitspower's plate!

u/victory_zero · 2 pointsr/watercooling

make sure your board has a T_sensor, a 2-pin socket for plugging in the thermal probe's cable

I'm using a Phobya in-line sensor, works just fine. It's just a G1/4 fitting with a sensor attached to it from the outside - it doesn't sit in the water.

Or you could use a Bitspower plug sensor, best placed in a T-fitting or in the res, so that it doesn't impede flow.

Other brands also have their own versions of such sensors.

u/cmharvey27 · 0 pointsr/watercooling

The straighter the better. That looks close enogh though. Also depends on your fittings. I prefer a tubing cutter. Perfectly square every time.

u/dimensiation · 1 pointr/watercooling

Coolant temps won't spike, so if you're running your fans and pump off a temperature, that's the ideal way to go. I bought this ( and it works great. It did a lot for making my rig run quieter, or at least not ramp up and down when the CPU spiked.

u/Bi-Polar-Bob · 1 pointr/watercooling

Sorry yes - the XSPC D5 Photon 170.


I did bleed the loop, no bubbles, and flow rates are good though not as good as I'd like, even perfectly clean my CPU block restricts a lot of water flow.

I didn't realize the D5 is a heat-source in and of itself... Will have to adjust my loop accordingly.

u/ItsADumbName · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Fan Hub:
SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

RGB Splitter:
2 pcs black 4 Pins LED Splitter Cable LED Strip Connector 4 Way Splitter Y Splitter for One to four RGB 5050 3528 LED Light Strips with 10x Male 4 Pin Plugs -30cm/12inch Long (1 to 4Splitter Cable)

NZXT Internal USB Hub - Expands 5 USB 2.0 Ports - Sleek Multifunctional Design - Molex Connection - Plug and Play

u/XorFish · 1 pointr/watercooling

You can also use voltage control, it is not too bad. Check the review of the silent wings 3 from thermal bench for more information about the PWM issue.

About your concern about the parallel rad. Take a tube and fill it with water. Where is it more difficult to blow out the first few drops of water?

If you have it vertical it will become harder and harder to blow out the water as you need more pressure to counter the weight of the water on the other side of the tube, but at the beginning there won't be a difference. Same thing holds true for the radiator.

The only downside of the rads is that they have a high resistance. They outperform many thicker rads at low rpm^([1]). I personally don't like the look of thick rads, but to each their own. As the performance is not that mach different, you can go for looks.

If you look at the techpowerup review of the titan x, you can see how well it will perform under water. It can be overclocked around 20%^([2]) so an OC Titan X is about 40% faster than an OC GTX 1080. At 3440x1440, the titan x OC should get around 100fps in Witcher 3.

I also wouldn't worry about the temps of the motherboard.even with low rpm fans, you wqill have enough air that will get pushed over the heatsinks.

Well you have to know, it is 500€ for a motherboard. All you need is one fan header for the fans and a splitter like this:

I doubt that you need pwm for the pump, you can adjust the speed with the vario.



u/petascale · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I did some research on the Core P5 and mATX too, and couldn't find a single mATX board with compatible waterblocks.

But I don't think water cooling for the board is necessary. Natural convection may be sufficient, at least if you're not covering the top of the case.

For more airflow you can strap a fan on the side, perhaps using one of the 3D printed fan brackets, or just a piece of wire.

Alternatively, mount the radiator sideways so the radiator fans supply some airflow to the motherboard; e.g. with a radiator bracket or a 3D printed custom holder.

u/waffle-monster · 2 pointsr/watercooling

The generally consensus around here is that PrimoChill Advanced LRT is the best soft tubing.

u/sflittle · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Do you want a dye or a coolant?
A dye is an additive which is usually inert and used to add or enhance a fading UV effect(most of these will add a lot of glow initially and fade off).
A coolant is an all in one fluid with biocide and inhibitors built in.
Also do you want a transparent or pastel coolant?
And for color, blues tend to have a dimmer effect compared to yellow or green. Often it will come out as a sky blue for a bright reaction, or a dull navy blue if you want a darker color. Since purple is darker, it'll usually have a dull effect.

For dyes, Primochill and Mayhems both make a dye that can be added to your fluid:
Note that both have complaints with quickly fading after being added. If you mix with another coolant, I'd recommend only mixing within the same brand.

For coolants you have a couple options depending on if you want a transparent or pastel

Mayhems UV coolant comes in a transparent version only as far as I'm aware:

Primochill has a transparent and an opaque pastel version.
The main difference is that the opaque will have less glow due to the pastel particles blocking some of the UV from getting in and glow from getting out. To get much glow out of the opaque version, I would recommend adding in some UV dye and using a cathode since they create stronger glow effects.
Pastel version:
Transparent version:
Here is my current build using the Primochill's Pastel with some of their UV dye mixed in:

Last option is XSPC which makes a fairly decent transparent UV coolant.
This one is fairly popular on amazon, and you can see a lot of reviews/pictures of builds using it.

u/crafty615 · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes. If you want each radiator to be adjusted individually then get 2 splitters and have them plugged into 2 Mobo fan headers. Here's the one I have

u/ThorTheGray · 1 pointr/watercooling

Nice site. Although I still think this may be the cheapest yet which is what I bought as my 2nd purchase. But I agree a lot of petg is overpriced.

u/LeinahtanWC · 1 pointr/watercooling

That looks exactly what I am looking for.Now to see if I can find it on a website like Amazon or Newegg

Found it:

Now that I am reading this, this isn't going to be short on the power output is it? I have this:

I ask because I hear the W_Pump+ header is a 3A header for DDC pumps, and this thing is saying "Up to 2A".

Its also not the same model as the one you linked. So I can keep looking.

u/limitz · 2 pointsr/watercooling

> Most people don't want to buy a second PSU just for powering a loop.

You don't have to buy a full PSU though. You can find a PSU with a molex head for powering the loop on Amazon, $12.

Really helps when filling/flushing the loop.

u/Rehmanpa · 1 pointr/watercooling

> " OD.

Hey would this tubing work? It's 3/8in ID but it's 5/8in OD, and you said it was like 1/2" OD? idk if it matters or not on the OD as long as the ID is the same?

u/BLACKGlNGER · 1 pointr/watercooling

I use an inline temp sensor in my loop. Specifically, this one. Have it hooked up to a Poweradjust 3 which controls my fans off the water temp. Would work fine connecting it to a mobo header and controlling fans off of that, assuming the bios supports it.

u/TinyRumchata · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Primochill 3/8" ID 5/8" OD is probably the best stuff you can get.

It comes it just about every color you could want. But I think your fittings are 3/8" ID 1/2" OD, but primochill does make that size tubing.

u/cryinwilson · 1 pointr/watercooling

Male molex to male fan adapter should work, and there are also ac to molex power supplies.

These are just an example. I didn't look too hard, so you might be able to find better prices or quality, but those together should power it without being hooked up to a psu or motherboard.

u/vermette02 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I can't seem to find any fittings made for draining on the websites I buy from. Could it be possible to create my own drain? Using this kind of fitting with this stop plug on the unused IN port of my pump

u/LogIN87 · 1 pointr/watercooling

I used a dremel, and to every one saying OH IT'LL MELT IT...Nah, it actually worked faster, better, and easier than a hacksaw. Dremel makes a "plastic" cutting blade that works wonders. If you just try to cut straight through, then yes, it will heat it up too fast. What I did was cut a section, pull away for 2-3 seconds, turn the tube a little and cut another section. 3-4 cuts and boom it's off. Takes less than 30 seconds. You will have to use a chamfer tool like this: but again, that only takes another 20 seconds. Then using some 400 grit sandpaper to finish it off.

I used a dremel 3000 series, set it to power 8, and used this cutting wheel :

u/nikuk · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I have (6) noctuas running off of this. SATA for power and any 4 pin fan port on the mobo for Speedfan / rpm control.

u/Retrosmith · 1 pointr/watercooling

My pump runs full speed all the time, and my fans are connected with a Swiftech PWM hub co I can control them with the fan control software that came with my motherboard.

u/AshL94 · 1 pointr/watercooling

I just use Phobya splitters for my 2 480mm rads, a two way splitter cable for my two d5's and then just fan headers for the case fans

u/sunshinecid · 1 pointr/watercooling

Not OP here. But, I have a P5 too. I use the EZDIY PCIe cables and in fact I am using two. Both my GPUs are highly OC'd and still run rock solid.


u/jchavezr01 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I have the same case and for riser I am using this....
EZDIY-FAB NEW PCI Express PCIe3.0 16x Flexible Cable Card Extension Port Adapter High Speed Riser Card (25cm)

With the riser you can just put your water tube behind the gpu mount

u/Mashu009 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

EZDIY NEW PCI Express 16x Flexible Cable Card Extension Port Adapter High Speed Riser Card-25cm

u/donedward · 1 pointr/watercooling

Try wertycal gpu mounting bracket from coolermaster.
Cooler Master Vertical Graphic Card Holder ( With riser card ) Case Accesory 'FreeForm Modular System, High Quality Steel Build, Riser Card Included' MCA-U000R-KFVK00

u/Pistollpiet · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Thermaltake Pacific Temperature Sensor G 1/4 Digital Display with Alarm CL-W151-CU00BL-A

How would one incorporate this into a build, what kind of adapters are needed? Will it work with 10mm/12mm hard tubing? Its so pretty please help.

u/CedgeDC · 1 pointr/watercooling

What a relief to hear this! This is the tubing I ordered.

I was mostly worried, not about the fit, because obviously they both say that they have a 16mm od, but rather that this wasn't even a proper fitting to begin with. That it was some kind of adapter or such.

u/WhyGrind · 4 pointsr/watercooling

I used this Cooler master vertical graphics card mount extension. Be warned that it will require a dremel to remove some of the metal to make it fit.

u/Ries76 · 1 pointr/watercooling

This will give you some play:

4 x extenders long (20~25mm)

4 x extenders short (10~15mm)

6 x 45º rotary angles

6 x double rotary snakes

4 x 90º rotary angles

1 x ball valve

1 x inline temp sensor ( phobya inline temp sensor or Barrow temp sensor stop fitting )

u/endertux · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I have one of these that I use when filling my loop. Works with my Liang D5 vario pump.

u/kenman345 · 1 pointr/watercooling

Additional idea for the sensor thing, go with one of these:

u/ultrapingu · 1 pointr/watercooling

What kind of rpm fans are you talking here? I've just bought Corsair Air series with an alphacool radiator.

u/snookers · 1 pointr/watercooling

If your motherboard has a 2 pin temp sensor you can pick up an inline fitting sensor for about $10-15:

u/zyck_titan · 1 pointr/watercooling

One PWM header for Pump, One PWM header wired to a splitter for fans.

u/erectusMaximus612 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Cooler Master Accessory: Fits MasterBox, MasterCase, Maker, H500P Series Vertical Display VGA Holder Kit w/ Riser Cable

u/Kwerpi · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Cooler Master Accessory: Fits MasterBox, MasterCase, Maker, H500P Series Vertical Display VGA Holder Kit w/ Riser Cable

u/GinjaFox · 1 pointr/watercooling

Also, found this while searching for the XL:

Lian Li Case with front distro

u/Cozmo85 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Any PWM splitter will work (did you buy PWM fans or 3pin fans). Whether its simple cables or into a box like this

Running 6 of those fans per channel wont be a problem at all. If you were ever worried about power you could always use one of these.

They power the fans from the PSU and send the pwm and rpm signal to the controller.

Personally I used to use asus fan control and it seemed to lag in response (took a while to respond to temperatures) plus the whole fact that it dictated motherboard choice in the future.

I use an Aquaero 6 Pro with 8 EK Vardar fans and an Aquacomputer d5.

I have it run my pump at 38% (you can adjust it in 1% increments)

I have it run my vardar fans DC controlled and it ramps them up based on water temperature. I have a water temp probe, an internal temp probe, and ambient temp probes on the outside of each radiator so i can measure incoming air, internal air, outgoing air, and water temp.

It shows me the delta between ambient temp and water temp and runs my fans from ~500rpm to 900rpm depending on water temp

The benefit is its completely independent of the pc. I can change hardware, wipe the hard drive, reset the motherboard and my wc system keeps going with no configuration. Only thing it needs the pc in windows for is cpu and gpu temps which are really just so i can see them. You should control fans based on water temp, not gpu/cpu temp.

Want to run an led strip, it can do simple 12v led strips. It can run an RGB led. It can interface with flow meters and all kinds of shit.

u/nev_neo · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I'm using 2 of the Aqua computer probes for ambient and internal case temperature sensing. For the loop temperature i'm using 2 x Phobya G1/4" Inline Temperature Sensor.

The Phobya's are located at the exit of the bottom rad, and connects to a 45 fitting. This is my Water-IN sensor. The Water-OUT sensor is located at the start of the top rad, right after the CPU-monoblock. Can't really see it because of the fans blocking it.

The Aquaero is in the back with all the cables. I'll post more pictures when I can.

u/AttackSheep · 1 pointr/watercooling

How do you prevent plasterization if you're using soft tubes? I'm using and all kinds of white crap has now flooded my two four fan radiators +. I had extra tubing for yearly maintenance, should I scrap the tubes and go somewhere else? Also, is there a way to flush my system of all the white buildup? The white residue is currently coating my GPU and what I assume is my CPU, though I haven't noticed differences in performance in terms of heat build up.

u/bp7178 · 1 pointr/watercooling

They are all basically the same design. Its a temp sensor that contacts the metal of the fitting. Just choose the brand/color that matches your other fittings if you can. I've always used the Phobya ones, as the nickel matches the nickel that EK uses. I take off the sleeving though, the wire is very low profile without it.

u/ISkypeWithMyCat · 1 pointr/watercooling

No problem. I'm using the Silverstone 1-to-8 PWM hub to control 5 ML120's and ML140's, it only costs a little more than a splitter cable - would recommend

u/Jyvturkey · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Swiftech 8 way pwm hub. Powered by sata. Been using for some time now and no complaints. I don't have my pump hooked up to it yet bit once I'm back together and running I'll run the pump on it as well.

Same deal as the rest. One of em is used for rpm monitoring.

u/ben1481 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

link I have 2 of these and haven't come across any issues. Whatever you do, DO NOT use the thermaltake riser (the p5 includes one, the p3 does not). It is complete garbage and will cause you hours of frustration.

u/NotHere2FckSpiders · 4 pointsr/watercooling

Single bends are fine, it's just two bends on a single tube which can take a lot of trial and error.

Not sure what you got in tools yet but I kit similar to this( ) would help alot. I didn't have the silicone tube when I did mine and trying to bend the tube without it collapsing was a PITA. You will also need a heat go though, you can generally pick one up a a hardware store reasonable cheap.

u/scuffling · 2 pointsr/watercooling


|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|


u/xxLurker · 1 pointr/watercooling

Gladly! The only thing in the loop was the CPU. I do plan on expanding it in the future. I have this radiator with 2 Noctua NFF12s on it. The loop is being driven by this pump with this reservoir. There is maybe 5 feet (max) of this tubing used.

I Also have several Corsair fans in the case that came with the Air 540. All fans were profiled using ASUS's Fan Xpert3 that was bundled with the mobo. My CPU is running at 4.7GHz, with an average low use temperature of 37C using an old H100i that I pulled from storage when the EKWB block failed.

u/Aimbot69 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

XSPC Radiator Mounting Bracket Set


XSPC Universal Radstand V2

Or go buy some 6-32 screws about 2-3 inches long, and 8x 6-32 nuts and 4 flat washers to fit. run the screws through the rear 120mm fan housing, then put a nut on and back it almost to the head of the screw, then screw another nut on just a bit, then screw the screws into the radiator just past the surface and back the nut onto it to tighten it, then tighten the 1st nut to the case and boom you have a mount. (if this is to hard to follow, It is probably because I am bad at explaining things like this.)

u/UnclePooptickler · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Here's the parts list






CPU block

GPU block (discontinued. Had to buy overseas)

RGB fittings

90 degree fittings

90 degree compression fitting


Lian li strimer(24 & 8 pin)

RGB light strip

RGB flow indicator


u/TheArkratos · 2 pointsr/watercooling

You need this for your tubing:

if it's a rotary and difficult to turn, I'll unscrew it and turn it outside the build then reinstall. If you are having trouble screwing something in:

However I do NOT recommend you use pliers to tighten fittings because you are likely to crack your block or whatever, I generally just use them to unscrew things if I'm having trouble.

If you are referring to tightening the compression collar down, they don't have to be that tight, because all you are doing is compressing a rubber o-ring to make good contact.

If you were pressing in tubing without chamfering it first you are very likely to have cut your o-rings inside your fittings, get a needle or something to dig out the old one and replace it. Once you poke an o-ring with a needle consider it worthless.

u/spalexxx · 7 pointsr/watercooling

First off... I know my bends are fucking putrid. Shamefully disgusting even.
I seriously didn't think I would suck so bad at bending PETG.

Some of the mistakes I made was:

  1. Buying this kit that was made for 16mm tubing, when I was using 12mm tubes.

  2. Using 12mm tubing (I think 16 would look better).

  3. Not having enough 90degree fittings

  4. Not buying more PETG. - You would think that 3 meters would be enough right? Wrong! Not with all the fuck-ups I made.
    I really want to go back a re-do the piece that goes to the GPU and the one that goes from the GPU.

    Anyway, some things that I am VERY happy with:

  5. Mayhems Pastel blue pre-mixed coolant. Even though my bends look disgusting, I just love staring at that blue coolant.

  6. Even though they are useless when using pastel coolant, I bought these UV LED strips... And I was shocked to find that they were'nt just crappy "UV colored" LED strips.