(Part 2) Top products from r/whichbike
We found 20 product mentions on r/whichbike. We ranked the 193 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. SRAM PG950 9-Speed Cassette (12-26T)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Cassette Body Type: Shimano 9/10/SRAM, Cassette Cogs: 12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,26, Cassette Color: ChromeCassette/Cog Color: Silver, Cassette/Cog Range: 12-26t, Chain Compatibility: 9-SpeedDrivetrain Spacing: Shimano/SRAM 9, Speeds: 9sp, Weight: 226g
22. SRAM PG950 11-34T 9-Speed Bicycle Cassette
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Cassette body type: shimano9 /10/SRAMCassette cogs: 11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26, 30, 34CNC-machined aluminum 5-arm spider supports
23. Finish Line Shop Quality Bicycle Chain Cleaner Kit with Lube and Degreaser
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Heavy-duty bicycle chain cleaner with EcoTech Cleaner & Degreaser Concentrate and chain lubeCleaner clips directly to the chain--no need to remove the chain from the bicycleThree-brush rotating design and scrubber pads clean the chain quickly--usually in less than a minute30-degree exit angle elimin...
24. LORJE Flexible Bike Cycling Bicycle BMX Chain Whip Wheel Sprocket Remove Tool
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
This combination chain whip and freewheel/lockring remover wrench is in high quality. Designed to be used in conjunction with a cassette lock ring tool to remove cassettes from hubs. It can also be used to tighten on screw-on freewheels. Caters for 8, 9 and 10speed cassettes.It is constructed from s...
25. Problem Solvers Travel Agent Black with Black Roller
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Housing Color: Black<br/>Unit of Sale: Each
26. Bell GelTech Saddle with Airgel
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Honeycomb AirGel pockets combine the softness of gel with shock absorption of air - right under pelvice pressure pointshree inches of DuraSoft foam padding atop a wide sitting surfaceErgonomic channel relieves pressureRear edge guard protection
27. Bell Motivator 2.0 Magnetic Resistance Trainer
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Indoor bicycle trainer lets you stay fit and enjoy bike training in your homeSmooth, quiet magnetic resistanceSingle-adjustment, progressive resistance increases along with speed; double adjustment centers bike in trainer for steady ride20-pound trainer measures 8.5 by 20.6 by 22.1 inches (W x H x D...
28. Kryptonite Evolution Mini Bike U-Lock
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Lock Size: 3 x 5.5 -Inch, Lock Style: Keyed
29. Sunlite One Piece Crankarm Set, 24 TPI, 3-1/2", Chrome Plated
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Compatible with 1/2" pedalsForged steel24 TPI
30. Origin8 Alloy Crank Arm Set (110 BCD), 165mm, Black
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Single speed crank armForged alloy crank armDoes not include chainringDoes not include BBWeights do not include BB
31. Sunlite Aero Brake Levers, 25.4/26.0mm Clamp, Black//Silver
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Designed for caliper & cantilever brakesForged aluminum construction25.4/26.0mm clamp270g pairSHIMANO Equivalent BL-R400
32. Kool Stop Supra 2, Linear Pull Pads, Threaded Posts, Salmon, Pair
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Universal road bike padWith adjustment washers for correct toe-inThreaded, salmon kool stop supra 2 bicycle brake shoes
33. Continental GatorskinDuraSkin Bicycle Tire (700x28, Wire Beaded, Black)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
CARBON BLACK MIXTURE- The Gatorskin, manufactured with a durable carbon black mixture, is as comfortable on the way to work as it is training for road races.POLYXBREAKER- The polyester fibers overlap during manufacturing, yielding a very dense fabric and minimal space in-between threads, making the ...
34. GMC Topkick Dual-Suspension Mountain Bike
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
21-speed mountain bike features a full-suspension, strong aluminum frameFloating beam suspension design is mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technologyMicroshift push shifters and Shimano TZ-30GS derailleurStrong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange all...
35. Allen Sports Tension Bar Bicycle Cross-Bar Adaptor, Model 900B
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Model 900BCreates a top tube for non conventional framesInternal spring keeps your bikes secure. No assembly requiredPlastic coated hooks protect bicycle's finishLifetime on workmanship and materialsAllen's warranty does not cover items purchased through third-party sellers
36. SHIMANO SL-BS77 Dura Ace Double/Triple Bar End Shifters (9-Speed)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Dura-Ace SL-BS77
37. GMC Denali Road Bike (Extra Large 25"/63.5cm Frame, Black/Silver)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Lightweight Aluminum 7005 frameShimano Revo Megarange Gripshifters L3/R7Shimano RD-TZ30 SIS 21 gear shifting systemVitesse 700C V-Profile lightweight aluminum wheelsLifetime warranty on Frame
38. Allen Sports Wall Mounted 2-Bike Storage Rack, Model 201B
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Great for bicycle storage in home, garage or apartmentPatented design folds up out of the way when not in useAlso works as a repair standInstalls with 1 wood screwLifetime on workmanship and materialAllen's warranty does not cover items purchased through third-party sellers
39. Thule 598 Criterium Upright Rooftop Bicycle Carrier, One Color, One Size
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Upright rooftop carrier for one bicycle with secure C-clamp clamping technologyRatcheting rear wheel strap quickly secures back wheel to trayStylish aluminum tray holds bike in place while loadingFits bike frames up to 3-3/8 inches in diameter and tires up to 2.6 inches wideFits Thule square bars an...
40. Panaracer GravelKing SK+ 650B x 48 inch Knobby Aramid Folding Tire, Black/Brown
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
650B x 48C tire size, perfect for gravel and dirt, great for both rough and smooth pavementFolding bead tire that is tubeless compatible, Black tire tread and Brown sidewallsZSG natural rubber compound is long lasting and makes for an excellent ride, Anti-flat casing provides reinforcement throughou...
First of all, know your bike size. I like Surly's rough guide, and they suggest you'd need about a 52 to 56 cm/medium sized bike as measured horizontally from the head tube (where the front wheel forks rotate) to the seat tube. Mountain bikes often measure the seat tube instead, so you'd be looking at a 17 to 19 inch mountain bike. This pretty much rules out the Fuji, which is too big, and the Trek, Giant OCR, and the Jamis, which are too small.
Since you're going to school, have you considered how you're going to carry your books or laptop? If you feel comfortable with a backpack, then great! but if not, a rack like the Trek has might be a good investment.
You'll also need to maintain this bike well, so get a nice chain cleaner and some dry lubricant. You don't want to one day find the chain falling off when your all the gear teeth are ground off!
Also, get a bike lock and learn how to lock up your bike! I'm not sure what is worse: losing your bike, or losing the wheels because you didn't lock it up right.
The front suspension on the Raleigh is cool, but a good "fitness hybrid" like the Jamis would be just as comfortable on the street and more fun to ride, too.
Do you ever plan on longer rides? In that case, the better aerodynamics of the Giant's drop bars would come in handy.
If you think you can handle the hills without changing gear, then a fixie like the Fuji would be the easiest to maintain and the lightest. No derailleurs or shifters to worry about!
You could certainly get the Giant Escape, but you can certainly find a better used bike. It's "Tourney" derailleurs are Shimano's light-duty components. For comparison, the Giant OCR has better "Sora" components for less money because it's used.
TL;DR: Keep looking. If you absolutely had to take one of these bikes, take the bike that would most likely fit, the Raleigh, and use the money saved to get a rack for your books, a cleaning kit, and a good bike lock.
If you know the shop guys, they might do it for free if you bring 'em a six pack. If you buy the brake from a shop, they might install it for you.
Honestly, though, installing brakes is pretty simple - you remove the bolt and washer, slide the pin in through the hole in the fork, and then put the washer and bolt back on. Tighten it down. The rest of it's just getting the cable tension and pad placement right, which you'll need to deal with on your own some day anyway.
The lever, on the other hand, depends on what sort you're going with. There are basically three options (I'm linking Amazon, but that's just because it was easy for me to search; you may find better deals than what I'm linking to, I just want to be clear about the sorts of levers I'm talking about - and furthermore, the ones I link might not even match the bar diameter for the bike in question):
If the bike comes with a brake, I'd try mounting that on the front first; if it works, you've saved yourself some money, and if it doesn't, you may gain some knowledge about what in particular you need (possibly, for example, you can get by with just getting a different center pin).
> Mundo V4 Lux
Great. You should also look into the Surly Big Dummy and Xtracycle Edgerunner. Both of those are very similar to the Yuba but are probably
a bit more expensiveout of your price range. But just know you have choices.Xtracycle also has a bolt-on cargo extension that attaches to pretty much any bike and converts it into a cargo bike for about $500 including accessories. They ceased production of their old freeradical 2 years ago and should be releasing the new version leap this year. I have a freeradical and it's nice to be able to switch back and forth between cargo bike and touring bike, although the process takes me about 2 beers (3 hours) and costs about $25 in rear brake and derailleur cables each time i switch.
Cargo bikes are great, and you will enjoy. The only thing that sucks is transporting them. Forget putting them on the bus or on a trunk-mounted car rack. Finding a roof rack tray that can handle the length has been hard but I'm 99% sure that the Thule 598 Criterium Upright Rooftop Bicycle Carrier is just long enough for a cargo bike. I own one but don't have my freeradical installed now to confirm; everything works on paper though. Any tandem or recumbent tray will work but those are hella expensive (like $300-$500).
Good luck!
I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.
I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.
Here's relevant parts off my list:
|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|
All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.
As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.
Truth is that you can replace almost any component on a bike, they are relatively simple machines. With the right tools disassembling a bike is pretty straightforward. The issue is how much money would an upgrade cost vs the difference you notice.
On this level of bike I would primarily optimize for comfort. The saddle and grips should be comfortable for you for whatever type of riding you prefer. The tire size and tread should match the terrain you ride. For example knobby mountain tires will be noisy and inefficient for street riding, high pressure road tires would be uncomfortable on rough terrain.
For a commuter bike you'll want to accessorize. Get a rack to carry your bag, get lights for night riding, get fenders if it rains a lot where you live.
Performance wise the only thing I would change on a bike like the 7.1FX is the brake pads. At least with my hybrid the pads were miserable, especially in wet weather. They would gather aluminum dust in little holes and scratch my rim. I got these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411934931&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kool+stop+salmon brakes and I never had to worry about cleaning out the pads again.
If you end up doing a lot of biking (like 500-1000 miles a year), you may want to consider clipless pedals and shoes. This is a pretty common upgrade that makes your pedaling more efficient and will transfer to any newer bike.
There are maintenance items that you will likely have to replace or repair based on wear such as chains (1000 miles, or have wear measured by a chain tool), rear cassettes (should be after like 4-6000 miles if you replaced your chains on time, wheels (whenever spokes start popping and it can't be trued anymore), crankset/chainrings (probably unlikely, but maybe after 10k miles?).
I like to upgrade as things break, replace it with a higher quality component. I feel like this makes more sense financially than repairing something that already functions well.
Bikes you are asking is a bread-and-butter bike @ any LBS. I think you should visit your favorite LBS.
My current "go-to" bike is Momentum bikes (aka Giant.) It's designed for urban/suburban use, relatively inexpensive, and quite useful. Any LBS that sells Giant should be able to get one for you.
http://www.momentum-biking.com/us
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/05/06/giants-spinoff-brand-momentum-wants-you-to-move-happy-with-their-new-cruiser-bikes/
If money/budget is not an issue -
http://www.rivbike.com/Rivendell-Atlantis-p/f-atlantis.htm
> Do I need anything extra if I want to mount the bike onto a car or a bus?
If the bike is step-through, you'd need a cross bar.
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458854492&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Adjustable+Bike+Frame+Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/panaracer-GRAVELKING-650B-Aramid-Black/dp/B07QMTPLJH/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=panaracer%2Bgravelking%2B650b%2Bx%2B48&amp;qid=1563755165&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=panaracer%2Bgravelking%2B650&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
I think I'm gonna try these out. Thanks for the replies. My old tubes will work, yes?
>gravel pathways
You want wide tires for that (>=38mm?), not available on pure 'race'-bikes (very narrow forks to reduce air resistance), they do fit on a cyclo-cross bike.
City-/hybrid-/race-bike + "2 miles on busy city street in the middle of the commute":
A city-bike makes it very easy to look over your shoulder for other traffic, but the wind makes that a bad choice, a hybrid/mtb-model with flat handlebars gives enough 'forward lean' to not have to 'hang on' onto the handlebars, the race-y dropbars give the least wind resistance but are also the most difficult to look around (or further ahead if you get tired).
>Assume rain rain rain and dark dark dark for 2/3 of the year.
Disc brakes work well in rain and a (front-wheel) hub dynamo with fixed lights takes care of the dark.
On (very) dark streets and at high speeds you may want a battery powered 'searchlight intensity' headlight as backup to see where you are going.
>My right leg is about an inch shorter than my left
The 'angle' of your hip joint will be larger, some crank parts can be ordered with different lengths (either ask your LBS or search the web yourself), if you use platform pedals you can (silly but cheap) bolt on a piece of plywood of the correct thickness (on both sides of the same pedal for 'weight' balance), if you use 'clipless' pedals there are filler plates.
DO consult a bicycle knowledgeable sports physician.
>and (c) OMG expensive.
Yup, save your money and buy a cheap-ish sensible model for your all-weather commuting/shopping-bike.
(Some cyclists catch this sickness called "N+1 syndrome", after a few years working out all the problems and increasing your fitness you can always buy a $5000 '200 mile weekend-warrior' model.)
I bought this cheap road bike that should be big enough for you
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FGI99I/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's 63cm road bike. With me being 6'6" I keep the seat post almost all the way down so you should be able to raise it for your height. Hope that helps.
They all come apart. I forgot a chain whip in my post above.
You might take some pictures to make it easier to understand. Also just to be sure we are talking about the same things
Agree with this. I'd recommend two U-locks, Kryptonite, at least Evolution line but preferably one of them NY Fahgettaboutit. That'll cost you over $100 right there.
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372566802&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372566802&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-NEW-YORK-FAHGETTABOUDIT-FahgettaBoudit/dp/B00629P4M2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372566802&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit
>The budget is about 350-450
Don't get any bike with a front shock. All of these hybrid/comfort bikes come with cheap shit shocks that will break within 200 miles or less.
That Mercier looks pretty good. It will be hard to balance that bike on a roller trainer, but I don't see an issue with putting it on a trainer that retains the rear wheel.
With bikes like the Fuji, if she's fat she will have problems with the lower hand position.
What are your thoughts on This GMC bike or This Titan Fusion bike?
Considering it needs some work and tlc 100-125. You are looking at a minimum of 30 for new tires and tubes, up to about 100 if you go with a tire like gatorskins
Without it being in a ridable condition you are taking a risk that there are other problems.
First, see http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html
My advice: Is the saddle actually painful, or does it just look small, relative to the size of your ass? If it is truly painful, how long can you ride before the pain starts? Like any new physical activity, there can initially be some discomfort as your body gets used to doing something it hasn't done before (or in years). Start with shorter rides and build up, and get off the bike and stretch for a minute if you feel discomfort.
I would caution you before running to the store and buying one of the gigantic gel "comfort" seats, something like this for example. I lost a lot of weight cycling (I was pushing 300 lbs. when I started), and I thought this type of seat was the only thing that could carry my wide load. Big mistake. It hurt my ass much worse than the "normal", lightly-padded stock seat that came with my bike. The fat nose can spread your legs further apart than ideal, destroying your form, and causing pain in your hips and knees.
Don't worry about your size: if you are riding casually on roads and bike paths, your saddle frame (the part that connects to the seat tube) isn't going to suddenly "snap" causing you to impale yourself. Padded bike shorts can also help (they aren't just spandex, they have sewn-in padding). Another fat cyclist pro-tip: bike shorts can be warn discretely under mesh athletic shorts until the point in time where you cease to give a fuck what others think about your ass.