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That looks like an ok system, the brush looks like it’s meant to spin from a drill. Typically i would use something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-16906-Chimney-Cleaning/dp/B000FKDMLO

As for the rods you can get button lock or ones that screw together, both work fine. Make sure the rods will fit the brush, if they’re screw- together rods they are typically two sizes, 3/8” and 1/2”, just make sure the brush head is the same size threads. Example of type of rods I use below.

https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Hearth-Fiberglass-Chimney-18-Foot/dp/B0778XH959/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540224460&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=chimney+rods+1%2F2%E2%80%9D

As far as cleaning the chimney yourself that’s fine. Many people do it themselves. As long as you have a basic understanding of how things are set up and what is safe (or unsafe) you should be ok. Like if I come to clean your chimney I’m looking everything over to make sure it’s all still connected properly, nothing has decayed or been damaged and everything is installed to code. I look for the type of soot that I’m getting out of it, is it creosote or powdery? As this will tell me about your wood quality and burning habits. So IMO you should have it swept professionally at least every couple of years if you are not sure. But if a sweep has already inspected the chimney and no issues were found you are probably fine to clean your own chimney. Really up to you and how comfortable you are with the venting system.

A firewood log cart would help him get the wood inside. He doesn't have to fill it up:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7HLP4V


Or a wagon like this might be easier:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BECQBZ0

As others have said, make sure he's wearing welder's gloves near the stove.


Good luck & best wishes. Thank you for caring enough to post this

well that's interesting. Good stuff. I will say that I've never had smoke or anything backup into the house WHILE the fire was burning. It burns great and never smells bad during a fire. It's only while it's cold. You can open the door and feel the cold air rush down the chimney. I got a flue blocker and it kept the air from rushing down the chimney but it did not fix the smell. That's why we then though it was coming through the seams in the flue pipe. Turns out the smell was coming out of the fresh air intake. Once we plugged it we never had another problem.

So I may be completely wrong about this but at this point I tend to think that if I can get the fresh air intake through the wall I could at least reduce the smell during a cold backdraft so I don't have to plug it every time while also improving the efficiency during burning. I will also point out that this stove is not top-of-the-line. It's a Summer's Heat brand from Lowe's. They are technically made by England Stoves so I believe the quality should be pretty high considering the price. But we did not buy the stove as a primary heat source. It's really only for super cold days and power outages so we were not really in need of something high-end. Especially since we bought it during an already expensive house construction; but that's another story.

Anyway, I really appreciate all of the advice. I do have a moisture meter. I have checked all of my wood and it's all under 20% some around 10%. I chopped a big maple a few years ago and have been pulling from that pile so it's well seasoned. Additionally, I can guarantee the guy that installed the stove is as you described: an old timer trained by an old timer. So I completely understand what you mean there. If the problem with the smell continues or if we experience any other problems I'll get in touch with a professional that knows what they're doing before making any big decisions.

I have always been amazed by stirling engines. I would love to get a stirling fan for my stove but could not pay that much for a fan. One something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-Stove-Fan-Stirling-Powered/sim/B002Y4UOYM/2

I’ve been using one all season. So far it has greatly exceeded my expectations and I have no plans to even buy split wood this year. I have a Vermont Castings Encore with a catalytic converter, using this pellet basket.

I can’t vouch for the durability of this particular basket as it’s only been in use for about a month. Note that some reviewers report warping and burn through after longer term use.

There is also one called the Pelleteer which I’ll try if I have problems with this one.

As a concept, however, it works very well. You have to monitor the initial fire because the pellets can get very hot very quickly. For this reason I’d think twice before using it if you have any air leaks from bad gaskets or whatever which make it difficult to choke down your airflow.

Once the stove is up to temp - 500-600F - I engage the catalytic element and close the airflow all the way down. One basket holds 16lbs of pellets and lasts ~12 hours until it’s burned down to an inch or so of coals, at which point the stove is still at ~200F and the house is still nice and warm.

During the week I’ve only been burning one fire per day (after work and overnight) and two loads per day on the weekends if the weather warrants it, so between 1/2 and 1 bag per day. Pellets run $5-6 per bag. I haven’t worked out the precise math vs split & seasoned oak, but a pallet of 50 bags at ~$250 should last 3-4 months at this rate whereas oak is ~$300/cord delivered. We go though 3-4 cords in a normal winter so it would seem to be far cheaper to burn pellets, but we’re not into the really cold months yet so the current consumption rate will undoubtedly go up. That said, it still seems favorable to hardwood cost wise.

There is a bit of re-learning required in how to start the fire and it took me a week or two to find a technique that works well every time, but it’s pretty dialed in now. I fill the basket, then mound about 4 cups of pellets on either side and 4 more in front of it, then start it with a few pieces of fatwood or a line of alcohol gel on top of the mound in front. Leave the door cracked and the damper wide open for about 20 mins until everything takes off, though sometimes a bit of bellows or blowing is needed on a cold start.

Thanks. Should note I do my own Chimney sweeping using one of those "sooteaters" weed whacker type drill attachments you feed from the bottom up.. Works great.

Thus my question about what I should look for in my inspection.


this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RCH205-B-SootEater-Chimney-Cleaning/dp/B0010H5JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550935155&sr=8-2&keywords=chimney+sweep+drill

With a thermometer lol. Either via a digital gun or a metal one. Here’s one you can get off amazon, works well for me. You can get it off eBay for 2-3 bucks, but it’s from China and it’s the typical long weeks shipping lol.


Magnetic Stove Thermometer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0813KSLS9

Edit: pick up a check moisture meter as well. You can get one for about $10-15. It’ll be accurate enough for what we need. You want your wood under 20%

It doesn't even need to be a big fan. I use one of these on the floor to push the cold air back to the room with my stove. Small and quiet and it does the job.

But like you say, it works better to move the cold air toward the stove than to move the warm air to the other rooms.

Any 3" vent would work fine. It's basically a dryer vent...except you don't want a fancy one with a door that only lets air out

What you're looking for is something like this. Bonus if it has a cage/screen to keep critters out.

Oh, as a chimney sweep, given that I'm fairly handy (do all but the most major car repairs myself, basic home plumbing, interior repair, appliance maintenance, builds PCs, ect.) would you recommend getting something like this and cleaning my chimneys myself? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010H5JXA

Or not a good idea for some reasons I'm not aware of?

Yes & yes! For supporting arguments, read this book.

These are $8 with prime shipping. I'm sure shipping from the UK would put it well over $8.

Are you referring to the white ceramic blanket that's on top of the baffle?

Your stove looks like my QuadraFire 3100, which has those same three secondary air tubes at the ceiling, then a thick (like 3/8 or 1/2") plate steel baffle over those, and finally the ceramic blanket laying on top of that. I kind of looks like you're missing the steel baffle though? It's hard to tell. I've seen some designs where the baffle is accomplished with fire bricks that are laid between 2 or 3 rails.

does is look like this Thermodisc ?

This is what you want to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Copperfield-W573-0007-Mill-pak-Temperature-Sealant/dp/B001D1J8TO

Wood stove pipe in general will have minor gaps at the stove or thimble and will not effect performance. Natural draft will draw smoke up without any leakage. Just make sure the crimped end of the pipe is running downward and not up.

I am using a General Tools moisture meter

Not sure but they could be These

Have a look at this

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Porc-Porcelain-Repairs-Enamel/dp/B001J4K43Y

Should do the trick!

+1 for fire bricks. I use these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UEYZ4S