(Part 2) Top products from r/woodworking

One of the biggest mistakes I see is trying to use too small of plane for the job. The bigger the boards, the bigger the plane.

Most people use a #4 Smooth plane as their starter plane. It's a good overall plane, but if you're trying to get something large flat it's workable but not great.

I usually use a #5 Jack or #7 Jointer plane. I've also replaced most of my irons and chipbreakers with Hocks. This is not a route to take if you don't find hand planing to be a "religious" experience.

Most people think that Hand tools are the "Cheap" way to do it. You can get a cheap #4 hand plane and it will work, but a good quality hand plane will be much more expensive new. See if you can find a Stanley Bailey #4 for a much better plane at a reasonable price. If you find you absolutely love hand planing, I've heard good things about Veritas and using my instructor's bronze Lie Nieson was an amazing experience.

Used planes are hit-and-miss if you don't know what you're looking for. Lots of them are in pretty poor shape, and then you're competing with collectors who want them for decoration. Stanley #4 planes are pretty common on the used market and pretty cheap but anything else gets harder to find quickly (except for Ebay, but then you can't inspect it yourself before buying so it's a gamble). I've found a couple of #5's in decent shape, and I'll occasionally run into something else, but usually too expensive or not in good shape.

Note that you could probably find a decent 4" bench power jointer on craigslist in most areas for less than $100 (usually Craftsman)

If you want to learn how to do lots of traditional woodworking stuff, I'd recommend picking up a copy of Tage Fried Teaches Woodworking. I'm pretty sure he covers planing stock, including winding sticks in there.

This is just my experience (~2yrs woodworking) but it might help you. You hear opinions often of people way more advanced and while they can be very accurate, they also are much more sensitive to the finer details that aren't as important right now for us.

I went with the Stanley 4 for my 1st and if I could do it again I would go probably go Stanley Jack instead. They're both super comfortably priced (the jack spiked for the holidays but it'll drop in a week or two, use this to check the price. Those are more than high enough quality for our skills. It's hard to justify the price of a premium plane (LN/V) when starting out.

YES they are nice and incredible quality and will last generations, but it's fun to learn on something you aren't afraid to mess up but that also has some quality to it (yes, it will take some tune up, but it's really fun to learn, scour youtube). I know people will rag on the modern Stanleys, but I absolutely love mine. I'll be going Veritas/LN when the time is right.

Finding an old one to refurbish can be overwhelming especially when starting out. There's a ton all over the place and it's hard to know what to look for and what is the right condition it should be in etc —if anyone wants to chime in here; please do.

That's it from me, good luck!

Ultimately if you get serious into woodworking you are going to end up with several routers, a 3+ HP router table, at ~3 HP handheld, a 1.25 HP handheld, and a trim router. It all comes down to what you are doing with them. The router table is your work horse that you use for 90% of tasks, except for the few operations you can't do. The big routers are unwieldy to handle so you really have to make sure they are well supported and stable or then can get away from you. For larger bits you need the 1/2" shank and the extra power they provide but for smaller work you give up control and it's a nuance to use them. For those sorts of projects a smaller 1.25 HP compact router is the better option. You can't use the larger bits up much easier/safer the handle and more control. They use a 1/4" shank. For really fine work that you want to do free hand, say routing out waste for inlay, the trim router is what you want.

You want definitely want a plunge router. That allows you to start/stop in the middle of a piece by plunging down into it. I don't know that I've ever bothered to switch a router to fixed base. Variable speed control is also a must, you will get a much better cut if you have the correct speed for the bit/material you are working with. As far as as shank size you generally want 1/2" as it's safer, so if there is an option between 1/4" and 1/2" for that bit you'd usually go for the the 1/2". A lot of the smaller bits are 1/4" only, larger 1/2". You can use a 1/4" shank bit in a 1/2" router but not the other way around. So keep what bits you need in mind when you pick a router. Another important aspect is the router bits you use. Cheap bits are not worth it. A lot of people will say buy a cheap set then upgrade the ones you use regularly. I did that, not a great idea. The quality of the cut is poor and they don't feel safe. Do you want a cheap made in China bit spinning at a high RPM in a tool you are holding? No thanks! I get 1000% better results from good bits, smooth cuts and no issues.

For the sound of what you want to do I'd suggest a smaller compact router to start (then a router table /w dedicated 3+hp router motor). I like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3MF02H72ZOHDJ&coliid=I2UIP99Y0DK7X9

As far a bits go my top choice is Whiteside. The Freud quadra cuts (larger 4 winged bits) are super nice as well. There are several other good brands out there too though. I'd buy bits on an as needed basis as they are expensive for good ones.

Honestly, this question can be asked about any tool. Should a hobbyist buy cheap tools just to get started or spend more on quality tools, but buy fewer of them at first?

For the most part, I'm in the "buy quality tools" camp. I started out on the cheap tools (Skil, Ryobi, etc) and they made a lot of tasks harder than they needed to be. That is, a skilled craftsman could have gotten quality results from those tools but I certainly couldn't. I found that the quality of my work jumped dramatically when I switched to precision tools.

Now... in your case, none of three routers that you're referencing would be in the cheap crap territory, as far as I'm concerned. You'll do fine with any of them.

Some thoughts, though:

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is often considered the gold standard for mid sized routers. Many many woodworkers have that one and love it. You will absolutely not regret getting it.

The DeWalt DW618PK is a direct competitor to the Bosch and holds its own very well. Lots of very satisfied users of that model, too. Another that you'll definitely love.

The Hitachi models... are almost surely worth getting as well. I'll be honest, though -- they aren't talked about as much as either the Bosch or DeWalt.

One final thought: Depending on how you'll use a router, you might consider a "trim" router like the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've found that one to be notably easier to handle than my mid sized and it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. Really, the only downside is that it can only accept 1/4" shanks and most of my bits are 1/2". If I had more 1/4" bits then I'll likely use the DWP611PK almost exclusively when not on the router table.

This guys list is pretty much what I was going to say.

So for some recommendations:

I've restored an antique 1930s No 5. Bought it for 45, and it is best for those on a budget. Any pre WWII Stanley just needs some light restoration work and a reworking of the blade and it will do 20x better than a harbor freight plane and roughly same as modern Stanley sweethearts at 1/3 the cost. It may not be as good as woodriver or lie Nielsen, but it's a 1/4 or 1/6 the cost respectively.

Paul sellers recommends Aldi Chisels, I got Narex instead for an additional $20. I love them, and will only upgrade out of them once I get enough money to go for some veritas or lie Nielsen. I got a set of 4 with imperial measurements for $60ish. I'd put any extra money into sharpening systems than upgrading them.

I bought David Barron dovetail guides and the Japanese pull saws he reccomends. Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw. Look at Amazon for the narex chisels I reccomend and the 'people who bought this also bought' section and you'll find it easily. While there you can find some leather for stropping and the green compound you need with it. Also while looking at these, you'll see a reccomendations for the Stanley disposable knife and the replacement blades. This is what Paul sellers recommends, and it works well. Stays ridiculously sharp, and can be rehoned with little effort and the blade cheaply replaced once it becomes to much work top get the thing sharp. Cutting layout lines is much more precise and helps prevent tearout. I bought narex marking knife and love it. I don't mind trying to hone it every so often. Ditto the scratch awl.

Basically took around the Amazon other bought recommendations and you'll find a bunch of fairly cheap quality things to get you up and running.

YouTube is a great place to learn just about anything.

Agree wholeheartedly with u/Joyrenee22. Woodworking for Mere Mortals is a must.

Also check out King's Fine Woodworking. He and his daughters have some great videos including a free woodworking course that just started. I don't know how many videos there are yet but the first few have been about shop tools, what they do, how to use them, tips/tricks, etc.

A few more good channels: Crafted Workshop, Jon Peters, The Wood Whisperer, Jays Custom Creations, and April Wilkerson. There are a ton more but I can't think of anymore off the top of my head.

Don't underestimate books for learning woodworking. My wife got me a few last Christmas that I've really enjoyed.

Woodworking Basics - Peter Korn

Good Clean Fun - Nick Offerman (bonus, this book is full of light hearted humor)

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking. This is technically three books and a DVD. They're thick and dense (content wise) so this may not be the funnest to run through. Some of the illustrations in the book aren't that great either.

Good luck!

Regardless of whether you take an apprenticeship or attend a college program, I would highly recommend expanding your knowledge on woodworking. There are five basic books I could not have survived without.

"Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" by Tage Frid - This is for a box set of Tage Frid's three books. I bought them separate, but one link was easier than three links. You can buy these off of Amazon or eBay for quite cheap if you're a smart shopper.

"Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology" by R. Bruce Hoadley Edit: Recommended for a better understanding of the materials you're working with.

"Identifying Wood: Accurate Results With Simple Tools" by R. Bruce Hoadley Edit: Recommended because as a carpenter or woodworker, you should be able to identify most common wood types.

If you're just beginning and don't want to spend the $100ish it would cost for all of these, start with Tage's first book. "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Joinery: Tools and Techniques". It will teach A LOT about design and wood in general, which will help you when applying for apprenticeships and/or carpentry/cabinet-making school.

It should be noted, these are textbooks for the most part and as such, read like one. If you're fresh out of high school, it should be easy to resume an old studying routine; if not, I suggest coffee, a chair that's comfortable and a notebook for note-taking. Seriously.

I have recently purchased my first home with my fiancée, and like all of you, have an enormous list of projects we'd like to do. I am fairly handy and am prepared to tackle any project (with supervision on electrical). All that being said, I have always used other people's tools when working on projects, so I don't have many of my own. I have a budget and would like to purchase all of my tools on Black Friday/Cyber Monday to get the best bang for my buck. I'd like your advice on which tools are the best for my budget.

We are planning on renovating the master bed, bath, and closet, kitchen, mudroom, and the laundry room. I also plan on making a kitchen table, coffee table, cabinets, dresser, etc. The first project is the laundry room and mudroom, which will require tile, built-ins, cabinets, and replacing washer/dryer. I have a tool budget of $5k-7.5k (ideally staying on the lower end) and would like your thoughts on my equipment list.

If you've used any of this below, what did you think? Are there any cheaper or better alternatives I should consider?

• Table Saw w/ fence JET ProShop II 725004K $1,500 http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/the-jps-10-1-75-hp-115v-30-proshop-tablesaw-with-steel-wings/725004K
  
• Mitre Saw Dewalt 15 Amp 12" $500 https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-DWS780/202922350
  
• Drill Press Dad's old press $0
  
• Router Bosch MRF23EVS $220 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRF23EVS-Electronic-Fixed-Base-Trigger/dp/B002LASDGK
  
• Plung Router Bosch MRC23EVSK 2.3 HP (Is this a good Plunge router?) $280https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Fixed-Base-Variable-MRC23EVSK/dp/B002LASDGA
  
• Router Table Bosch RA1181 $200 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
  
• Modular Table base Should I build this? $200
  
• 8 large clamps Jet Parallel Clamps (Does Jet make quality clamps?) $600https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70411-Parallel-Clamp-Cabinet/dp/B000F79022
  
• Planer Dewalt DW735 $500 https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735-13-Inch-Thickness-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU8
  
• Joiner Delta Power Tools 37-071 6 Inch MIDI-Bench Jointer $450 https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-37-071-MIDI-Bench-Jointer/dp/B00IYJCFIY
  
• Vacuum Jet 1HP $400 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-650-cfm-dust-collector-with-bag-filters-1-hp-model-dc-650?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupH4jIn83QIVReDICh2P9QS4EAQYASABEgIgYPD_BwE
  
• Band saw Model Jet JWB-10 $450 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-10-open-stand-bandsaw-model-jwb-10
  
• Finish Nailer Dewalt DCN650D1 (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $300https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-16-Gauge-Cordless-Angled-Finish-Nailer-Kit-DCN660D1/206528533
  
• Framing Nailer Dewalt DCN692B (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $400https://www.nailgundepot.com/dewalt-dcn692b-lithium-ion-battery-cordless-framing-nailer-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6Ddtor83QIVw4CfCh1EIg2zEAQYASABEgK-pvD_BwE
  
• Paint Sprayer Graco Magnum 257025 $240 https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U
  
  Last question: does anyone know where I can find plastic sawhorses that allow me to put a 2x4 across the top, but also allow the legs rotate for easy storage? My dad had these growing up and I cant find them anywhere. I have found all plastic ones, but I'd like to have the wood so I can saw through it and replace it as needed.
  
  Thank you for your help! I look forward to keeping you updated with our projects.

Used is always a good option. But it's a crapshoot. I'm not going to go into detail on vintage stuff - But if you want to pay about 20 bucks, expect a lot of work and maybe not the best plane. If you want to spend 50 to 70 dollars, you can get a really good one.

NEW

Gamble/Good - Stanley Sweetheart No4. This is the absolute lowest barrier of entry for a brand new plane. Do not buy any of the cheaper brand new Stanley - or anything cheaper that looks like them (Grizzly, shopfox, silverline, footprint, etc). They are a waste of money. I don't have this plane. But I do have the new SW 62 low angle jack. I really like it a lot. I'm considering getting this because it's so cheap.

Better - Woodriver No4. This is a good plane. It will be ready to go out of the box. Just a light hone needed on the iron. Also consider the 4 1/2 for 20 bucks more.

Best (traditional) The Lie Nielsen No4. If you want a bailey/bedrock pattern plane, it doesn't get any better than this - unless you live in Europe and won't get murdered on shipping for a Clifton.

Best (non tradtional) Veritas No4 Smoothing plane. Uses a different style of adjuster and you can open and close the mouth. This is an extremely well made and capable plane.

Best (Bevel up) Veritas low angle smoothing plane. I used standard Stanley style planes for years. However I am now officially a bevel up convert. I went with the larger, the smaller No3 sized, and if the UPS tracking info is correct, the really large will be here tomorrow. All of my other bench planes except the Stanley SW 62 low angle jack will either find new homes, or serve as backups.

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

I learned through the book Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley. This author is famous for the "Yep, it's wood!" meme. There is a lot of good info for free online, but a solid, trusted, and researched book like this one deserves the inch of space it takes up on your shelf.

The more you know about the material science of wood, the better your projects will be. Good luck!

Just got a notification from CamelCamelCamel and wanted to share:

Amazon has the Dewalt 735X Planer marked down to $530 right now.
https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Dewalt+735x&qid=1573819734&sr=8-2

This is a pretty good price on these new, normal price is around $650. They are very good planers and I love mine even though I haven't gotten to use it as much as I'd like. If anyone has been thinking about getting one, this might be the right time!

edit: swapped the link for an Amazon Smile one.

I've only done them for 2 or 3 pieces so far, but you can do a good shaker with cope and stick style. This video from saw stop does a decent job of summarizing things, but do additional googleing to get all the details.

https://youtu.be/d-fCL-ZAVWs

Also, get a ftg rip blade for cutting the groove, any bevel will make it impossible to get a good tight fit. Here is the one I use with good success (then you have a real rip blade too!) I'd totally recommend the thin kerf if you have a 1.5hp or less saw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225UH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468094452&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Freud+thin+kerf+ftg+rip

I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:

Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU

As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371

For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.

I'm not sure what Tammar uses specifically, but the Diablo 1050X is a pretty decent, popular, inexpensive upgrade from most stock blades. Or the D1040X. Others in that price range are the Irwin Marples 40t I believe. Being available from HomeDepot (as a non-American, decent-ish blades at a big box store? Unheard of!) makes them a good choice too.

Diablo is a sub-brand of Freud. The red blades are "permashield" coating, which Freud put on pretty much everything, so you'll even see it on higher end blades too, like the Freud Fusion.

Per Bob Flexner's book,

Warping like this is caused by compression shrinkage. When the wood fibers get wet, especially only on one side, they are limited in their ability to swell laterally, so they well longitudinally. This deforms the fibers, making them longer than they were. They then dry in that long, thin shape, and when they try to return to their original configuration while drying, they are now thinner than they were because of the deformation. This causes them to shrink tighter than they were, pulling the sides of the board into a cup.

The solution to this is counterintuitive but effective. Since you can't fix the wood fibers that have already deformed, you have to deform the other side to match it. Clamp the sides so the wood can't expand in that direction, then soak the bowed (not cupped) side with water and let it dry. You may need to do this several times, but now the fibers on the opposite side will deform, shrink, and pull the board back flat.

It looks like you may need to remove the finish from the top to pull this off, unfortunately, but it's likely the only way to approach a fix without removing wood from the piece. Good Luck!

Yes. DeWalt makes very nice routers and this is a very reasonable mid-size model. I'm going to give two other recommendations, though.

For mid-sized routers, you can't go wrong with the Bosh 1617EVSPK. It is a solid workhorse and wins more than a few comparison tests: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/

Honestly, though, I'd skip a mid-size router if I was getting my first router. The new compacts are extremely versatile and I find myself reaching for mine most of the time. It's gotten to the point that I use my router table for router table type stuff and my compact for everything else. My mid-size just sits there, except for rare occasions.

The best compact router I've found is the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've had it for about a year and it's been my go-to router ever since: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/

So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.

Here's what I have to go along with my TS:

1. Blade: Diablo 50T Combo blade
   
   
2. Feather board: Magswitch feather board
   
   
3. Push sticks: I already had these (homemade), they are basic AF.
   
   
4. Crosscut Sled. My design was a combination of this video for the fence shape, and this one. That second video does a really good job of explaining the 5 cuts method, and how to make adjustments to the fence to get it super accurate.
   
   
5. Dado stack. I got this for Christmas, still haven't used it on a project yet.
   
   Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
   
   If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
   
   Good luck!

Also, if you want a really good intro to the care and use of that set of tools, and some plans, then Tage Frid teaches woodworking is a fantastic resource. Look at YouTube for safety tips on each saw, too. There's lots of good free info out there.

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I highly recommend "The Workbench Design Book: The Art & Philosophy of Building Better Benches". It's a really fun and enjoyable read, even if you're not particularly interested in building a workbench. He's such an interesting thinker and researcher and this is probably his best work so far.

I don't think you need to spend that much. This is the #4 I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002B56CUO?pc_redir=1409749742&robot_redir=1

It's great. Kind of the spiritual successor to the old Stanley sweetheart planes. $120 including shipping. Not peanuts, but nowhere near the $300+ lee valley/lie nielsen would charge you for a #4.

I've used that plane a lot for about a year and a half now. I'm not incredibly experienced, but I get great results with it. I've also bought 3 or 4 used planes in that time, and this is definitely still my favorite for working.

Japanese saws are great fun.
$42 Good for dovetails and fine work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JW19U8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$37 Good for cutting up pretty much everything:
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BSQU9UQ&pd_rd_r=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV&pd_rd_w=AqtIY&pd_rd_wg=C155B&psc=1&refRID=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV

The Dewalt DW735 is my recommendation. I have used many floor model planers including by General, Grizzly, and some others. I have also used several of the bench top models, although not the cheaper Dewalt. Once I tried the DW735 at someone else's workshop, it blew me away. I bought one and have planed many types of wood with mine now including hickory, ash, maple, walnut, zebrawood, purpleheart, bloodwood, birch.

It does extremely well on the difficult woods like zebrawood which actually has grain sticking up both ways. None of the other planers I had tried worked very well on this, I would always get some tearout due to the weird grain pattern.

The other thing I was never able to do on other planers is plane thin pieces, on this I have planed pieces down to 1/8" without having to use another sled underneath (there are tricks you can play with laying the thin piece on another board when putting it through like a sled). I have also planed pieces up to 16/4 thick full width taking off 1/8"+ per pass. You will probably want to bolt it down to something, but I have run 12 foot boards through mine by holding it for the first few feet then going to the other side to hold up the finished end. It is expensive, but mine has absolutely worked like a charm. Also a little heavy for a benchtop, but I can pretty easily lift by myself, and it adds stability for when you do longer boards compared to other benchtops.

A few thing will give you excellent blade life for any planer. I check my wood very carefully for any foreign objects like staples nails etc. I cut 1/4" off both ends of the boards first because boards can stand up in dirty areas and get imbedded with dirt, metal shavings, gravel, etc before you get them or while you store them. Sometimes I wire brush the board surface if it looks dirty. Unless you are using especially knotty wood or plywood, the only real cause of knife nicks is from non-wood debris in the wood you are planing. I run on the slow speed setting even when roughing because the blades are removing less material with each cut (less stress on blade). The blade replacement is super easy on this planer too though for when shit does happen or they get dull.

I literally used a chainsaw on an ash tree and a hickory tree to turn them into boards. Probably a 10" hickory and a 16" diameter ash. Got several 10' sections from each. Cut it up with chainsaw into boards, let them dry, cut 6"-12" off the ends from splitting, then ran them all through this planer. After many other smaller projects and then nearly two entire trees, it was time to change the blades for the first time... definitely a workhorse that was worth what I paid.

The tables in this package are worth it in my opinion because they help reduce snipe. I get none to very little snipe. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/

So I don’t really know much about this router BUT if this is your first router and you want a good one to use for small to large projects I HIGHLY recommend this one. This was my first and I use it for EVERYTHING and for the price it’s the best router on the market IMO.

DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3jyACbQW32Y0R

I use a 3M quick latch respirator with the pink cartridges (you need to buy the filters separately with the mask I linked). It is reasonably comfortable and does a great job filtering.

The quick latch is critical for me because, thanks to allergies, my nose seems to be always running to a greater or lesser degree. Needing to unstrap to blow my nose or to sneeze would be horrible.

The pink filters are perfect for what I do. They are P100 (meaning they filter 100% of particulates; that's the level you want) and will do enough chemical filtering to be useful in the environment I work in (my shop). For more noxious chemicals or stronger exposure, you can get different filters.

You may want to get two, one permanently for the shop and one for his work vehicle. I know mine would always be in the other place, and I'd probably be too lazy or forgetful to move it.

Well you're off to a good start since you've heard about wood movement. That will save you some heartache.
As far as putting pieces of wood together goes, that's joinery and that's the fun part. Most joinery is designed to be held together only with glue. If your project is well designed you should be able to do a dry-fit and have it all hold together without glue (but you glue it together as a final step).
I can recommend a series of books called "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking." It covers the usual joints, how to cut them using both hand and power tools, finishing, and a bunch of other standard woodworking processes.

The router is one of those things that initially I was not interested in. But I was working on a project and realized a router would be the best way to proceed. So I got one and started playing with it. And now I am in love with it.

> dangerous

Sure, at first it seems so, but I got a pair of these push blocks and now I feel a lot safer. In general, I love the push blocks; they even make me feel a bit safer around the table saw. Now that is a power tool that scares!

> time consuming to set up

This is one area where the INCRA router set up really shines! Started off with a cheap Benchtop Router Table and it took forever to set up a new cut. And god forbid I should need to go back and re-do a cut. One of the first things I noticed with the new router set up is how quickly I can go from planned cut to the next one. I feel so much more freedom to change router bits and experiment with different ways to get the effect I'm after. Really can just dial in distances to within 0.0004". And return to the same dimension days later.

If it is his first router, I would recommend getting the DeWalt 611PK kit. It is a compact router, but it is pretty powerful for its size. I bought the Bosch recommended in another comment as my first router, and looking back, I wish I had purchased the DeWalt first. I find myself using the smaller router far more than the bigger one. Plus, the entire kit is around $160, so you have plenty of money to get a MCLS bit set and still be way under budget.

Just my 2 cents.

I use my smallest router on a plunge base 100% of the time. It is very useful on many scenarios. Unlike what the other guy said about dewalt being construction tools, I disagree completely. Dewalt tools have served my needs more than adequately. With one exception: the 618 router simply should not be mounted on a router table or that thing's variable speed mechanism will get destroyed by the sawdust. I think makita makes excellent tools as well.

In your case, please do yourself a favor and get the 611 with plunge base. I suspect the makita version is perfectly capable as well.

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.

• This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
  
  
• For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
  
  
  Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.

Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB

Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it

Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.

Desks and shelves are totally fine to start with! Just draw up your plans and get started, you'll start finding out what you need to know. For example, on both, you'll have to learn how to flatten and square your lumber on the jointer and planer, or using hand planes, and for a desk, you'll need to edge glue some lumber together to form a panel. Just jump in & start asking questions, you'll get a lot more out of having a specific problem that needs solving and therefore having a specific question to ask than all of this vague "where should I start" kind of stuff. You start by starting. That being said, I got a lot out of these books when I started:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Basics-Essentials-Craftsmanship-Integrated/dp/156158620X

https://www.amazon.com/Tage-Teaches-Woodworking-Step-Step/dp/1561588261

https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Solutions-Strategies-Essentials-Woodworking/dp/1561583448

This third one I linked was especially helpful. I liked it because it discusses things in terms of general considerations, like here are the various ways you can attach a tabletop to a base and allow for wood movement, here are the space considerations in designing a table so everyone has enough elbow room, and therefore gets in you the mindset of thinking things through and drawing your own plans.

Years ago I bought this mask
Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1MK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G1OVBbMF2VS4Q
About a year ago I upgraded to this one though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5OVBbCAGQRCD
it is worth the extra money and then some. (I think they are available at the local box stores too.) The advantage is a quick release latch. Whenever my wife would come down to ask me a question or my phone would ring I’d have to take my headphones, glasses and mask off to answer. The latch lets you drop it down so you’re able to talk or breathe without the mask without fully taking it off. It’s also really helpful on longer sessions when you end up getting hot and sweaty and just want a quick breather.
Added bonus, all the filters I bought for the first mask still work and I just use it as a spare for when family or friends come to my shop they get a nice one now too.
I should also mention I do not have a beard either so I can’t speak to the performance for those fortunate enough to grow a less than pitiful beard

This bench is a poor choice for hand tools--it more of a workbench for a homeowner who needs to organize maintenance supplies, or someone who primarily uses power tools

For hand tools, really want something more traditional. Something that weighs at least 300lbs. Something with tree-trunks for legs that won't rack or walk all over the room when you put some oomph behind a jointer plane. Something that doesn't have a bunch of crud hanging above your head that will fall on you when you are putting your muscle into something.

This DVD from Mike Siemsen walks you through how to build a workbench for very, very limited money--$150-175 is feasible. It's an English design that doesn't require vises for work holding.

This video series from Paul Sellers walks you through building a reasonable workbench with a very limited set of hand tools and inexpensive materials. This is also an under-$200 bench.

This book, and also this one by Chris Schwarz represent a deep dive into workbench design. The books include plans for ten or so different benches, all of which are excellent for hand tool work. I built my bench based on plans in the second book. Schwarz also has a blog which, if you go through past years, contains hundreds of posts on workbench design.

Workbenches don't have to be expensive. You can use 2x8s or 2x10s from the home center and limited tools to build them. The first two benches I linked come in at under $200. Schwarz's have a bit more of a range. In general, if you chose inexpensive lumber and hardware, your bench shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks.

One last thing: if you're doing it by hand, use a softwood. One of the stiffer/harder/heavier ones like Douglas-Fir or Southern Yellow Pine. Avoid the mystery SPF/whitewood. Not saying you can't make a hardwood bench completely by hand, but it's a lot more sweat, time, and money, and the bench doesn't really work any better once it's done.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.

I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.

if you're willing to buy new, i suggest going smaller for your first router: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2

I have a full size Bosch router that has a lot more power but I like my little router much more. It's great for doing freehand stuff (routing out butterflies, small mortises, etc) and should be able to handle any edge routing you want to do.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1480055730&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+router

This is the one I bought. Super happy with it. I mounted it upside down on a table and turned it into a table router. works great.

I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.

Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

Thank you very much! I did the fast-drying - I almost exclusively use that product for poly.

The wax was a paste wax to buff the final finish and clean up any imperfections the poly might have left. It's similar to a wet sanding, without getting too technical. I used 0000 steel wool and put the steel wool in the wax, buffed it onto the box, then let it sit for a minute or two, and then removed the wax and buffed it with a shop(lint free) towel.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM

The humidor I made out of Tiger Maple with a Spanish Cedar lining. It's approximately 6' tall, 2.5' wide, and 1.5' deep. I'll link some pictures for you!

Edit1 Response: I used the MinWax sanding Sealer, that comes in the white can: http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-65700-Water-Based-Sanding-Sealer/dp/B004Y6TTKI

Edit2 Response: So I sanded the box with 150, 220, 400, and 800 with my orbital until it was as smooth as I could get it. With Zebrawood it seems like the grain stands up, and I could be using the wrong term, but part of the wood will pop up with almost small slivers, that will need to be buffed out. Essentially the grain was raised up and it really only does it on the first coat that gets applied. If you ever work with Zebrawood you'll know exactly what I'm saying - one of those things that's hard to explain without a sample in front of me.

FYI - I'm more than happy to answer any of your questions!

I have a set of worktunes with bluetooth for hearing protection. They're excellent. I love listening to music while working, and with a bluetooth connection, I wear them all day and listen to music that's on my phone. They don't get super loud, but that's by design; they're hearing protection after all. ;-)

This mask is great since it has the unlatching without removing feature. I use these filters when sanding or cutting wood, and these filters when spraying finishes.

I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.

"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.

This article is good. His BOOK is even better.

I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/

It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.

I do have a copy of Bruce Hoadley's excellent [book] (http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588/) on wood, but this online tool is quick and easy once you understand how it works. I have even used it successfully to demonstrate to customers that the reason their doors are "defective" is because they humidity in their house in Alaska in winter is less than 20% and there is nothing I can do to eliminate the wood movement.

I have this saw. It’s not bad. One cool thing about it is that this Bosch router table top fits perfectly between the rails as a wing. You have to remove the stretcher and tap a few holes in the router table edge, though:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6

I have one mounted in mine. It works great.

Typically you store planes either on their side or just make a little shelf with a lip at the back so that when you set it down the back of the plane is raised up a bit keeping the blade from contacting the shelf.

A simple honing guide, a combination stone, and a basic strop is all you really need to sharpen plane irons. You can use sandpaper instead of the stone if you are really on a budget, but a decent combo stone is worth having in the shop. You can spend hundreds of dollars on diamond stones, higher end waterstones, sharpening jigs, grinder wheels, etc, but with proper technique, a bit of practice, and about 10 minutes work improving the honing guide the 3 items above will get any plane iron or chisel razor sharp. Grinder is mostly used for lathe tools and to speed up major regrinding or damage repair in a wood shop.

Here's a video on how to properly sharpen a plane iron with the guide.

I like to apply paste wax to the sole and other exposed steel surfaces of my planes (and most other tools in the shop) to prevent rust. I like johnson's paste wax.

Different types of benches lend themselves to different types of work. A really good book that talks about the way you go about deciding what sort of bench you want to build is Chris Schwarz's "The Workbench Design Book: The Art and Philosophy of Building Better Benches".

http://www.amazon.com/The-Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy/dp/1440310408

For eye-candy and inspiration (and some instruction), there's the classic, "The Workbench Book", by Scott Landis.

Schwarz has two workbench books and I have only read this one cover to cover and it has quite a few benches in there so it is quite possible that one of them had laminated dimensional lumber. The bench he feels is best suited for hand work is the Roubo that is featured on the cover and the legs for it are made from 6x6's that he found in the back of a big box store. I am in no way saying that you can't rip down 2x8's or 2x12's and laminate them together I am simply suggesting that buying lumber as close as you can to the proper dimensions for the legs and top ect. the less work it is, and imho makes for a better looking bench if not a more stable bench.

Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...

You’ve got a fence, right? If so, buy a decent blade, watch a few safety vids and go for it.

You’ll figure out what needs to be fixed as you go along.

Try to spend more time working wood than getting your tools perfect.

Here’s a good blade to start: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CcqyCbGEFW31T

I wanted to buy a hand tool, but I couldn't see the logic in doing so when I could get a powered router for the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was debating on this one and the makita that i saw was recommended. But this one ended up being cheaper on prime day.

Edit: I have never used one of these things. What kind of bits are ideal for woodworking?

What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?

I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.

As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.

this bosch table will work as a table saw wing if you remove the base. There is also the bench dog promax to consider. good luck in your search - we all expect to hear about whichever you choose :)

this drill press attachment looks like your best option for me. Since you are doing a grid a standard drill press will not work. I'd say its either this for $25, or a cnc for $2500.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA

A respirator.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457082707&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+quick+respirator

Filters are $4

The straps are adjustable to fit your head, the size only matters to determine how much face the mask part covers. I have a big head and this fits me nicely. If you have a small face you might want a medium. It's nice because you can flip a quick latch to drop it away from your face easily

Like others I also use the 3M, I have a 6503 with the 2097 filter. I'll just add that it works great for other things as well. I have a great dane that was taking some medicine that didn't sit well with him. Lets just say that I had a lot to clean up, twice, and the only way I was able to do it was by putting the mask on and getting at it. I recoil even now as I think about it but there was no odor that came through the mask which was of immense help.

That's a much nicer model, with the usual adjustments.

The 12-404 adjusts more like a spokeshave, with two knurls on threaded posts. Available on-line from several big box home improvement and department stores and "bookstores": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FK3WI2/

Depending on one's needs and budget, it's not an unreasonable way to get started; unlike some cheap things, it's not so bad as to be unusable, unlike the cheap block plane I bought years ago in-store at a big box home improvement store. (Still need a little setup, of course.)

I have a Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade in my amazon wish list (for my table saw). Everyone seems to love them...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z

For the cost of a blade just to save an extra ~0.025 inches or whatever or wood you can just buy a LOT more board feet of lumber instead. Or resaw on a bandsaw.

I think the blade that dewalt comes with is technically close to thin kerf (3/32 ~= 0.095 I think I have the same blade that came with my Dewalt..24 tooth 0.095 kerf).

A normal kerf is 1/8 or 0.125, to go even thinner you are talking like 1/32 of an inch less per cut I don't think you'll find a 1/16 blade for a TS and if you do it will cost a lot.

A 56.00 Freud thin kerf blade is also basically the same as what's in your saw https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-Ripping-Perma-Shield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526935425&sr=8-3&keywords=freud+thin+kerf

So just save your money on a new blade and buy more lumber

Sure, http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426809525&sr=8-1&keywords=ra1811

I am not entirely sure what is going on with amazon. They appear to be doing 50% Bosch accessories at the moment. However, that includes a good range of things. It appears there are some good deals out there...

I would probably try to make a jig that incorporates a drill guide.

Basically, use scrap wood to knock together some kind of cradle to hold your blank perfectly horizontal, then find a way to mount the drill guide onto the cradle, rigidly and at perfect right angles, then drill away.

Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.

>From what you're saying, if I understand correctly, the best type of joinery on a table top is none? Just a slab?

Pretty much. Wood grows and shrinks across the grain, and tabletops tend to be wide-ish panels. You could see a 1/2" of difference in width change with the seasons on a decent-sized tabletop. It depends on the wood, and whether it's been flat-sawn or quarter-sawn. That amount of movement makes adding any sort of frame a difficult/impossible proposition, and is also the reason why you don't just glue down a tabletop to the legs/apron.

Here's a decent article about the topic: http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/03/moisture-content-wood-movement/

Hoadley's book is fantastic and goes into great depth about this and other issues - but it's probably overkill if you're not milling your own lumber.

I use Boeshield T-9 pretty frequently. It does a fine job. Of course it would be a bit time consuming to treat everything with t9 everyday. So I also keep scotch brite pad with my gear to knock off the rust that inevitably appears here and there.

Two books your brother might love are Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley (the "Yep, it's wood" guy), and Workbenches by Christopher Schwarz. Both are chock full of phenomenal information about how wood works and how to work it to suit your needs. I would even recommend the second one to someone who didn't want to build a bench, simply because it gives so much insight into the how and why of woodworking in general.

I'd recommend a combination blade. Works great for someone getting started. Changing blades is a hassle https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FS75W1HYKCW1CS1P4VTB

You'd be better off with a guide like this:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_alA0xbMA692QH

I recommend the DeWalt DW735. It's a great machine.

I had some issues with my 4512 also bogging down. I bought a Freud 24 tooth thin rip blade and it works great. I haven't had any problems since. The thinner the kerf the easier it is for the saw to cut.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH

Well, /r/Workbenches/ of course!

Several books out there have a variety of workbench plans in them; this one is popular and has some not-as-fancy benches as well as some fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/The-Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy/dp/1440310408/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398431015&sr=8-2&keywords=schwarz+workbench

Something in this range is perfect. Paired with P100 mask filters.

3M Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6503QL/49492, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLg-AbK2NCQJZ

Robert Benedetto: Building an Archtop Guitar

George Frank: Adventures in Wood FInishing

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking

George Nakashima: The Soul of a Tree

The Genius of Japanese Carpentry

All these b ooks have impressed me greatly, and taught me things.

Agreed on the tooth count. I've had decent luck crosscutting hardwood with this blade and a slow feed rate. It isn't perfect, and I have an 80 tooth blade on my wish list for that reason.

When you are cutting with the handsaw: try starting at the corner of your top side right on the waste side edge of your pencil line, and get a straight saw kerf along that line on the top side. Then work your way down the other side, keeping the blade in the kerf you made on the top side.
If you aren't using a backsaw I suggest you try one. The back keeps the saw stiff when you cut. The 2 common types of backsaws are western or japanese. I recommend this one as a cheap good quality dovetail saw.
A good thing to remember is that japanese saws have no set to them so they will tend to not drift so much (set in the teeth makes a kerf slightly wider than your blade, and if they are not set properly they can cause problems,) and they also are filed so it cuts when you pull, not when you push.

It looks like this guy, $120 before shipping:

Stanley 12-136 No. 4 Smoothing Bench Plane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HS.xub020YHD7

A vintage Stanley no 4 from the 50s or 60s (sometimes earlier) will run you $40-60, will need more tuning than a new plane, but is really fantastic. Couldn't say how it compares to this new Stanley.

LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.

For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.

This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4

These are absolutely incredible for removing rust. I always put a coat of Boeshield for rust protection on surfaces that might rust. It works like a charm. rub on some paste-wax and buff it off and you have a slippery tabletop that wont need any attention for months!

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking 3 Volume Set Covers all the fundamentals and more. It is a great reference book and all his methods are spot on and very simple.

Thanks, I hadn't heard of Boeshield. Yes, it will be exposed to humidity and condensation. Is this the correct product?

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

I use the 3M quick latch with the P100 particulate filters. I've been very pleased. My brother swears by the RZ Masks. I bought a couple and don't find them all that comfortable unfortunately.

You can use some paste wax like this. I put it on my drill press support column and also any cast iron tables that might rust.

also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link

It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.

I've used paste wax and GlideCote, both are susceptible to occasional rust. I may try T9 at some point. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

I think for a hand plane, a simple solution would be to store it wrapped up in a cotton cloth. If the only time it was out in the open is when it's being used, that might have a serious impact on oxidation.

A high quality blade will make a big difference. I use freud blades and love them. You could use a general purpose blade if you make both rip and cross cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466877982&sr=8-6&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade
If you make a lot of rip cuts https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466878111&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade+glue+line+rip is amazing.
I use thin kerf as i had a crappy table saw in the past and its easier on the saw.

definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.

Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.

I started with this set

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set

Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.

I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.

Can I get some quick advice on getting a wood plane dialed in?

I bought a cheap wood plane just to start down the road of woodworking, and thought I'd try making a cutting board.

My first cutting board went really well, but the pieces I bought were all pretty flat so the plane didn't have to do much work.

My second cutting board isn't going as well, as the pieces are really far off in terms of thickness. Lots of planing to do, and I'm getting really awful runs from my plane.

Here's a quick list of the problems I'm seeing:

• The plane will "skip" along the wood
  
• I'll get jammed up a lot when the plane tries to "bite off too much"
  
• The shavings the plane is taking off are super thin, and short. Which is taking forever and I might as well be sanding the board to flatness.
  
  I tried sharpening it, but sharpened to an angle of 25 degrees, I'm thinking of doing it again and going with 30 degrees. Will that alone solve the problems above? Thanks for any advice you can give me!

If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.

I have this and am quite happy with it http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-136-Smoothing-Bench-Plane/dp/B002B56CUO .

Ok you seem like the right person to ask...

What's the difference between this $120 Stanley number 4, and this $32 Stanley number 4, and this $15 Stanley number 4

Obviously the first one has wooden handles, where the other two are plastic. But is that the only difference? They appear to have different mechanisms securing the iron. Does that really matter, or is it all cosmetic?

Sorry this is probably a stupid question for most people here.

Bummer. Seems like a pretty good price though, especially for canuckistan.

This got me looking at Freud industrial blades in the US with a flat cut and led me to this.. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B0000225V8

Thin kerf version here: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA

I used this book it doesnt have any plans but lays out rough guidlines and was a good read

MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY

I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.

Is there a specific type of hand planer i should be using? Without knowing too much, I was looking to get this Stanley no. 4 bench plane.

looked on amazon, there is a collection with three volumes for about 60 bucks. is that the same series? looks like it to me.

http://www.amazon.com/Tage-Teaches-Woodworking-Step-Step/dp/1561588261

This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.

*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr

This one's kinda dry: http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588 but contains tons of useful stuff. A few things I've learned:

• How wood & glue work. E.g. roughing up the surface doesn't help.
  
• Dimensional variation in longitudinal, radial, tangential wood dimensions, and how to design for these changes.
  
• How to more accurately identify wood species. E.g. just looking eyeballing a piece is not sufficient, even 'experts' will sometimes misidentify.

https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408

Very helpful to me

I'm new to woodworking and have mostly been learning on my own. These books have been extremely helpful. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1561588261/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478958015&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=tage+frid+teaches+woodworking&dpPl=1&dpID=413wT3q259L&ref=plSrch

I found this sharpening kit is a necessity when using a mortising machine. HUGE difference even with a new chisel and bit. I also will lube the drill bit with a couple of drops of Boeshield to keep the screeching sound to a minimum.

Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.

It kind of depends on the saw you have. If it is a portable saw buy the .091 kerf here:https: //smile.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=pd_sim_469_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMMS6DY84H49CKS4C9GW
If it is a bigger saw that can handle the load buy this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000225V8/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B00020JOAA
Both are great blades and the full kerf gives a much better cut on a full size saw but the smaller saws can't handle removing that much material. I use the thin kerf in my "jobsite" saw. I use Freud's 1/8" kerf line of blades in my cabinet saw. You can have them sharpened 3-4 times for about $12 each time.

I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.

I just use plane old Johnsons Paste wax. Might be better stuff out there as already mentioned in this link. Here's what I used last weekend:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962287&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=johnsson+paste+wax

Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

A #4 or #4.5 bench plane would be good, not necessarily that particular one. A generic block plane would do in a pinch, again not necessarily that particular one, just one like that. They can be had for relatively cheap.

Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.

1. I went to amazon and bought:
   
   • Mineral Spirits
     
   • Rust & Corrosion Protection Spray
     
   • Little Wire Brushes
     
   • Orbital Sandpaper Pads (assuming you have an orbital sander)
     
   • Steel wool
     
     
2. I lowered the saw blade.
   
   
3. I spread Mineral spirits with the steel wool in small circles with a bit of elbow grease.
   
   
4. I scrubbed for a moment with the wire brush where there were bad rust spots, but then I thought "This is going to take for ever!"
   
   
5. I sanded it with my orbital sander and my highest grade sand paper pad. This created a thin slurry of rust and mineral oil.
   
   
6. I went back to the wire brush to scrub the spots the sander couldn't reach.
   
   
7. I went in the house with my slurry-covered fingers in the air opening doors with my elbows and grabbed an undershirt from the laundry to wipe down the saw.
   
   
8. I wiped down the saw.
   
   
9. I did one more pass with mineral oil and steels wool.
   
   
10. I sprayed it with the protection spray.
    
    
11. I marveled at/ took pictures of my saw.
    
    
12. I scanned my garage for other small tools I could quickly sand and spray.
    
    The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.

Try:
https://generalfinishes.com/

If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

obligatory post for

http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

if you want to really understand this subject. get it, read it. I have read it several times.

it's like the bible of finishing.

Its my basement. During the winter it was fine. In the summer though, the moisture level is really increasing. I try to stay really vigilant checking my planes and table surfaces, and of course... this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

If you're looking for designs this book may help.

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

Read this. It will help tremendously

I like it! Good use of the small space. I'm stealing a couple ideas from you.

Also, how the eff did I not realize that there are router table inserts for my table saw?

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6

Is there benefit to having the one built into the table saw? Apart from having one less piece of equipment to worry about?

These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.

I would start by reading something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588)

Then buy some small quantity of different varieties of wood available where you live, a few different finishing products and experiment.
This way you would have samples to show your prospective clients and a personal database of wood/finish combinations.

I'd like to throw this in to contention for your dovetail saw consideration.

Not the best option, but, it is relatively inexpensive, and will get to you in 2-days:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i-ptxb4CC034N

If you only paid $30 bucks for the saw and the motor is good sink some money into a good blade, possible thin kerf. That dewalt blade that is in there is a piece of shit.

This should do quite nicely.

I didn't really follow plans, per se, but I did read Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use and The Workbench Design Book Both by Christopher Schwarz. After studying these, I had all the design elements in mind and worked it out as I went along...which worked out for the most part, but I had a few hiccups due to lack of planning along the way.

The hardware is Benchcrafted, and they have plans too, which are popular, but I didn't use them.

If you do attempt this on your machine, you will want a thin-kerf rip blade, 20-30 teeth. The thin kerf will reduce the load on your machine.

Heres a decent Freud one for under 40 bucks from Amazon.

A drill guide like this will work. They lack the absolute precision of a drill press, and definitely not built for daily use, but for an occasional DIYer who can't justify drill press, it gets the job done.

Not sure if it's exactly the same kit, but that model is $570 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME

What kind of table saw are you using, it's important for kerf sizing

If you're using a saw that can handle full kerf blades:

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B00004T7A4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478446733&sr=8-2&keywords=freud%2Bcombo%2Bblade&th=1

Otherwise, thin a quality thin kerf blade:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B0000225V8

Ask this guy if you really get stuck. I have that book and rarely use it but it is worth a read.

For nearly the same price as the big box Diablo's, the Freud branded Industrial line is supposed to be longer lasting. I just ordered the 50 tooth from Amazon Link

Here is the HD Diablo equivalent Link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF7RCU6/

This mask was a godsend for me. I was using the crappy paper masks which fogged up my safety glasses and put weird pressure points on my cheeks which gave me raw spots inside my mouth. Pretty uncomfortable.

The 3M mask with P100 filters is much better and more comfortable, but your beard will be a problem. You need to be able to pass a seal test on the respirator to be sure that it is actually working. The seal test involves covering the intake ports with your hands and breathing in. You should feel the mask suction to your face and you won't get any air (this is a very uncomfortable feeling). You also need to cover the exhaust port at the bottom and breath out. The mask should push off of your face and break the seal.

As far as difficulty breathing through the filters... any respirator or other proper filtration mask is going to restrict airflow to some extent.

The quick release on the 6503QL is great and can quickly provide relief if your asthma is acting up.

Johnson’s Paste Wax. Just follow the instructions on the can, buff in with a cloth, let it sit a few minutes then buff back off.

Before wax my stock would get about 2’ in then get stuck. Now everything goes through like butter.

You may want to consider this book.

Another of the classics

Links: Identifying Wood & Understanding Wood

I think this book focuses more on identifying wood but it might help.

Is this a joke?

I would start by reading this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408

You might change your mind on your needs after reading it.
Also, if it was me, I would build one, but not be afraid to build another one after you try it out.

Also consider getting (or borrowing) Chris Schwarz's two books on workbenches: The Workbench Design Book and Workbenches: From Design and Theory to Construction and Use

Everything you need to know about workbenches.
https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408

Your coasters are a prime example of wood shrinkage, there is nothing you can do except watch the crack get bigger and smaller according to the relative humidity. The size of the crack will change every day. See the cover of this book

if you were only to get one I'd say get the series of Tage Frid

Tage Frid's three volume set. https://www.amazon.com/Tage-Teaches-Woodworking-Step-Step/dp/1561588261

You can find them used for a lot less. Classic and complete.

I have the same saw and I use the Freud SD208

I am looking at this Freud set. How is it? Link

+router bit set:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S

+honing jig:
https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Honing-Guide/dp/B0035Y439C

Make the mallet.

Honing compound: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N20BY2T/ref=psdc_553346_t3_B00HT74364

Combo square:
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/12-4-pc-combination-square-metric-fractional-usa.html

Dust mask: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-6291-Particulate/dp/B000FTEDMM

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6

Link to it not going through twitter and removed the ref ID

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466287521&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+press+attachment+for+hand+drills

What is your opinion of this?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BEI1HAXXJGD1&coliid=I1D9M5TYC79WE9

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dewalt+735x&qid=1574962882&sr=8-1

DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=7D56CMDZX75Z&coliid=I1UOVUHDTJ2VIN&psc=1

It’s called a Dozuki saw. Based on his $40 price tag it’s orobably this one:

Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Oqk0AbCGAH5QP

Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9JaZzb5AY468Q

https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=br_lf_m_943yno4xkzybomh_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

Japanese pull saw
https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-372-Razor-Dotsuki-Takebiki/dp/B006JW19U8

Combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Tools-46-222-Combination-Square/dp/B002YCHF2I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511492947&sr=8-4&keywords=adjustable+combination+square

tape measure
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-279-English-Tape-Inch/dp/B002V0M8D4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511492992&sr=8-6&keywords=tape+measure

24" level
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Magnetic-I-beam-24-Inch-1801091/dp/B005XUHFI2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511493020&sr=1-5&keywords=24%22+level

clamps(quick and pipe) Irwin, harbor freight, etc

marking knife
https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Striking-Marking-Hardened-822301/dp/B01N4HZERP/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511493110&sr=1-7&keywords=marking+knife

I used this guide for a project a few years ago. I wasn't thrilled with the build quality of this model when I opened it but it got the job (6, ~1.5"x6" deep holes 90deg to the surface) done.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/

I think this is the plane you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_g-QZzbFV29TNF

There's also this one if you're willing to pay a bit more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_9.QZzb1P8J296