Reddit reviews ACCO Binder Clips, Medium,Black, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072062)

$2 gets you 12 binder clips.

Life Pro Tip - we use binder clips in the kitchen to keep those inner bags rolled up tightly and our food fresh.

We use 'em in the freezer, the pantry - everywhere

Newest items first

Taurus 709 Slim: http://www.taurususa.com/product-details.cfm?id=588&category=Pistol

Black Tiger Bicycle Deck: http://www.ellusionist.com/bicycle-black-tiger-decks.html

Spyderco Delica 4 Sky Blue: https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica4-Lightweight-Ground-PlainEdge/dp/B0052HQPWS

MCPocket Wallet: https://mcpocket.com/en/mcpocket.html

Thorkey - Black leather Key organizer: https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Compact-Key-Organizer-ThorKey/dp/B01DKS65G6

Simple 3M clip for Business Cards: https://www.amazon.com/Brands-Binder-Clips-Medium-A7072050/dp/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1491008178&sr=1-4&keywords=binder+clip

Caseology Parallax GS7 case for Samsung Galaxy S7: https://www.amazon.com/Caseology-Parallax-Textured-Pattern-Samsung/dp/B01BE993DU/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491008193&sr=1-8&keywords=parallax+case

Before I had stands for my pathfinder pawns I used these

You can put the pawn in the clip and detach the metal bits until you are done.

I get all my fleece from JoAnn stores. They often have fleece at 50% off per yard, so you can buy it in bulk and use it as needed. Any large fabric store will have lots of fleece in stock (I just prefer JoAnn because that's the best one I have in the area I live in). I'm sure you know this already, but just in case, please don't use cedar or pine chips as bedding for your rats; it's harmful to them. You can use fleece or aspen chip bedding (but freeze the aspen for 48 hours prior to use to make sure it's free of parasites).

I buy many rat toys on Amazon, and make some myself. If you're buying any kind of wooden rat toy, do be aware that many of them are made from soft woods like pine and cedar, which are super bad for rat respiratory systems. Hardwood toys are usually safe—just make sure it's not a combination wood that also has pine or cedar in it along with the hardwood. I personally do not buy wood toys on amazon, because the products often don't list what kind of wood they're made of. The only wood product I buy on Amazon is bags of untreated apple branch chewing sticks. I'll link you to some rat-safe toys and accessories I buy on amazon below! :)

Kaytee Lava Ledge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F466/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

15" Chin Spin - Small Animal Exercise Wheel - Handmade in USA (Expensive, but it's the very best and safest wheel for rats.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ6SDBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bright Starts Lots of Links Accessory Toy (Great for hanging things up in the cage.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ABZGU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Small Animal Activity Toy Cotton Rope Net For Rat and Ferret Pet Bed for Parrot and Hamster Parrot
https://www.amazon.com/Animal-Activity-Cotton-Ferret-Hamster/dp/B0777NWKT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519011945&sr=1-2&keywords=rat+rope+net

Kaytee Igloo Hideout, Large
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ACCO Binder Clips, Medium, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072050) (If using fleece as the bedding/liner in your cage, this helps to secure fleece to the Critter Nation pans.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Liquid Soap - Baby Unscented, 32oz. (I don't use any scented products with my rats since rat respiratory systems are so fragile, so this is the non-scented liquid soap I use to wash my hands and their non-fabric toys.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAI76TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pawliss Teeth Grinding Lava Block for Hamster Chinchilla Rabbit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHA6VW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aspen/Booda Corporation BBX56134 Byrdy Cable Cross Bird Toy, Medium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WRHTG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

200g(7oz) Apple Sticks Pet Snacks Chew Toys for Guinea Pigs Chinchilla Squirrel Rabbits Hamster(About 50-70 Sticks) by MAIYUAN (The only wood product I buy on Amazon.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLL641Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ware Manufacturing Fun Tunnels Play Tube for Small Pets (Medium.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUMU9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan- Colors May Vary (Regular size, not jumbo.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLICDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

JW Comfy Perch for Birds (Large, 36".)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large (You can hand these on the ceiling of the Critter Nation. My boys LOVE these!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2NBNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lixit Lbg-16 Glass Small Animal Bottle 16 Oz (16oz is always best for rats because of the bigger water spout. I've found that smaller bottles are a struggle for my boys to get water out of, so I only use the small ones for rat carriers/transporter cages. Tip: filtered water is best for rats, so if you can, get a Britta water filter.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WYCFK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yummy Time Tiny Small Stoneware Pet/Dog Bowl
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAUMYDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy Harlan Teklad (Envigo) food blocks for my rats, which is one of the top two for rats (the other is Oxbow Regal Rat). Harland Teklad is hard to find though, so I buy mine through this animal rescue:
http://weecompanions.org/healthy-food

If you get these blocks, freeze them to extend their shelf life, and take them out from the freezer as needed to fill your ratties' bowls. Harlan Teklad is great because they have several formulas for rats based on their age, which is super helpful for their health. Young rats up to 8 months usually eat Harlan Teklad 2016 (16% protein), and after 8 months they eat Harlan Teklad 2014 (14% protein).

Also, I don't have a link for this, but the best laundry detergents to use to wash your rats' cloth toys or bedding with is one that's non-scented and is sensitive on skins.

Um, if I think of anything else, I'll add it. But for now, it's already a ton. :P Enjoy!

(And feel free to message me if you have any questions!)

My female Lovebird breaks out of every cage that has this type of door. Since she started plucking her mates head feathers I had to separate them, which doesn't work if she opens the doors herself.

I used "binder clips" to keep her locked in. She did get the handles of the clips off (not sure how she did that) but the clip itself stayed in place. Not sure if it's helpful with a cockatoo.

The best solution you can get for printing PETG without any warping is a glass bed with PVA glue. I would highly recommend getting a borosilicate (Pyrex) glass plate. Borosilicate glass has a VERY low coefficient for thermal expansion so it extremely resistant to thermal shock and the breakage that comes with it. I had the piece of glass for my CR-10 cut to size at a local glass shop as glass beds were not offered anywhere for the CR-10 at the time. However now you can go on Amazon and pay a very reasonable price for a nice glass bed. Such as this which is less than half the price that I had to pay about two years ago. Ooof!


Take your glass sheet and attach it directly on top of the metal heated bed that the CR-10 has with binder clips. It is a very simple but extremely effective way to keep the glass tightly attached without issue while also allowing a quick and simple process for removing prints and swapping print surfaces.


Then, it is time for the star of the show, the PVA glue! Now, before you get intimidated by the exotic sounding glue (like I did when I first heard about having to use it), just know that it is literally just Elmer's Disappearing Purple Gluestick. This is seriously one of the BEST tools for anyone who prints somewhat exotic or finicky materials. Uncap the glue and evenly coat the glass with a light coating and you are ready to go. When I say light, I mean just one pass over each spot, do not do more than one coat, that one coat is plenty! The best part is that it is disappearing, so when you apply the glue and it still has a bit of moisture, it is a dark purple, however once it sits for about 30 seconds on a bed that is heating up it loses its color and becomes more translucent so you can see exactly what parts of the bed are coated well and which parts you may need to touch up. When the glue has lost its color and the glass looks like it is a bit hazy or foggy then you are ready to print!


PETG can be a bit tricky to print if you are coming from PLA but it is very rewarding once you dial it in.


I would suggest that you either use a low fan setting of 25% or less (except when bridging which should be 100%) or do not use the fan at all (again unless bridging). PETG is a material that wants to stay hot and slowly cool on its own. It does not like to be hit with a fan instantly after being laid down like PLA. PETG actually fuses itself together at the layers which makes it have extremely strong layer adhesion, whereas a properly formed PETG print cannot be separated at the layer lines because of this fusing effect. (This is why you NEVER print PETG directly onto PEI as it can fuse with the PEI and tear the PEI off of the bed.)

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I would also suggest that you run a hotter bed temperature. I personally print PETG with a bed temp between 85 and 100, depending on the brand of PETG I am using.


There is one VERY important end of print step to safely and successfully print PETG. When the print is finished, DO NOT let the bed cool to ambient temperature while the print is still attached! You MUST set your end of G Code to reduce the bed temperature to about 60% of the temperature it was while printing. This is a very important step so that your piece does not break your glass bed! This is especially important as the printed pieces get larger and have a larger contact surface with the bed. If you allow the print and glass bed to cool to ambient on their own then you are dramatically increasing the chance that the print will cool too rapidly and shrink while still attached to the glass and end up breaking the glass.


This may seem like a lot of things to do to print PETG but when you see the final result and how strong and beautiful PETG can be printed it is all well worth the effort.

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One final tip about PETG is that it is very hygroscopic (not as bad as Nylon but still noticeable and much worse than PLA) and needs to be taken care of for it to print well. PETG needs to be stored in airtight bags with desiccant packs while it is being stored. PETG should never be left out in the open air for longer than it needs to be. If the roll is not currently supplying a print then it MUST be stored properly. If you allow your PETG to sit out and absorb the water from the air, it will print very poorly and never give good results. If you are printing PETG and can hear a crackling or hissing sound at the nozzle, then your PETG is too wet and needs to be fixed! The crackling and hissing sound that can be heard is the water that has been absorbed by the PETG being instantly boiled and turned to steam when it hits the hotend. This is most noticeable with Nylon but poorly kept PETG will also exhibit this same behavior.

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If you have any questions or need me to clarify something please ask and I will gladly do my best to help! PETG is well worth the hassle and learning curve as the results that can be achieved with it are truly amazing.