Reddit reviews Darller 200 Pack Nail in Cable Clips Ethernet Cable Nails Tacks Clips 7mm for Cat6 Cable - White
We found 4 Reddit comments about Darller 200 Pack Nail in Cable Clips Ethernet Cable Nails Tacks Clips 7mm for Cat6 Cable - White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
GREAT MATERIAL - Our cable tacks are made of premium UV stabilized plastic and hardened 1 inch nails. Acid resistance, corrosion resistance, good insulation, ageing resistance, strong bearing capacity.UNIQUE DESIGN - Handy alternative to wiremold, raceway, or conduit; Ideal solution for routing cables such as a short run TV coaxial cable in a home theater setup or a long run antenna cable in an office warehouse. One piece cable clip with an integrated nail with no extra parts to lose.MULTIPLE USING - Nail in cable clips provide snug and secure placement of an LMR 240, RG8X, RG58 or RG59 coax cable, RG6 digital video coaxial cable, digital audio coaxial cable, Ethernet Cat 5 or Cat 6 network cable, 12 to 16 AWG speaker wire, phone wire, USB cable, or slim video cable; Supports most cables with a 7mm outside diameter or smaller.HOW TO USE - Orfanize and route cables along baseboards or wood trim molding; Run ethernet clips in tight spaces around door frames with the confidence that they will remain in place.RISK FREE GUARANTEED - Quality guarantee and 5-star customer service. If you are not 100% completely satisfied with your cable nails, simply let us know and you will be offered a FULL refund or replacement.
I think I found the brackets you are talking about. However, I'm worried about damaging the walls, and I am tempted by these cord clips that stick to the walls.
So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.
However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.
Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.
You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.
For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.
For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).
These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.
You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!
So, is this connection between the router in your home (living room, the "gateway" room) to your room, or from the "community" router somewhere in the other building/level to your home?
If it was the first case, you could just do it yourself. Some nail tack cable clips close to the ceiling would keep the cable out of harms way.
If you don't want nailing stuff to the wall, look for self adhesive ones.
If it's the second case, well......
Extending cable is still preferable.
An extender mounted anywhere not in your home may not be there for long.Misread your post.
You can still do the cabling yourself. Just have a good aim when you're throwing the cable to your window.
Or route the cable and use cable clips if its within the same building.
What I do in the house I rent is just run ethernet cables along the hallways. I found some ethernet clips like these ones to keep them along the ceiling. Once the cable gets to my room, it goes through a switch to split off for my laptops and my desktop.