Reddit reviews HIKARI H13/9008 LED Headlight bulbs, New Gen of Japanese CSP LED Tech, Adjustable Beam, Easy install, 10000lm 6K Cool White IP68
We found 3 Reddit comments about HIKARI H13/9008 LED Headlight bulbs, New Gen of Japanese CSP LED Tech, Adjustable Beam, Easy install, 10000lm 6K Cool White IP68. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Your top pick, the best led kit in the class.Max light output: 10000lm. +220% brighter than standard bulbs. Flawless beam pattern.Incredible reliability. Passed 300℉-7 days high-temperature test. [Normal operating temperature:150℉]Adjustable Beam. Special design required by Dodge Ram, Ford, Chevy, GMC, Honda etc. Mini fans. Compatible with most OEM headlight dustcover.Amazon filter system may not be 100% accurate or up to date.If you are not sure which bulb size that your vehicle requires,please google "automotive bulb look-up."
Vehicle lighting engineer chiming in!
>I have had good success with LED's in a few of my old cars with Halogens and the output has been exceptional so I decided to give the Spark an upgrade.I have had great success with the brand Hikari ( www.hikari-led.com ) on my previous cars, specifically the Spark EV needs the H13 base here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKCNPD1/re ... DbQAR3C5V .
If they were so great what's up with the ~40% fake/shill review rate?
https://www.fakespot.com/product/hikari-led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kit-h13-9008-9600lm-6k-cool-white-2-yr-warranty
>Now let me tell you why Hikari bulbs win: They have an ADJUSTABLE BASE in which the bulb can rotate inside the housing. I was literally able to plug everything up and spin the bulb while watching the pattern change on the garage door. Because of this I was able to fine tune the cutoff to match the stock bulbs.
Garage wall pics, especially ones at 3 to 10 feet away, are misleading (at best).
>Beam pattern is good. An even spread of light on the road.
There's nothing inherently good about an "even spread of light on the road." You want to maximize intensity at 0.6D, 1.3R, as this is your distance vision test point. Note that at many points, there are intensity thresholds.
>Field of light coverage is wider with the LEDs, they illuminate farther to the sides and lower in front of the car. Even though they use the same housing, I'm assuming the intensity and higher lumen count adds the extra range in each direction.
Foreground light ranges from useless to slightly detrimental to night vision.
>At almost any driving speed, however, any objects located in the visual foreground are too close to avoid with slowing or steering maneuvers. Further, published literature on the mechanisms for disability glare suggests that foreground illumination should have a negative impact in terms of the visibility of objects located well ahead in the visual field.
 
>Cutoff is soft. The light has a general fuzzy cutoff of light, the stock bulb might have even been sharper.- Lumen count is MUCH higher than OEM halogen. Reflective road lane paint and road signs lit up much brighter and farther out than halogens. this is probably my favorite benefit of LED.
Cooler temperature light has the effect of increasing apparent contrast, but has little to do with actual performance.
>Color temperature looks about 6000k, mostly pure white. This is a preference really, science proves 4300k is the perfect headlight color but suffice it to say these are much "whiter" than halogens.
Science does not prove this. The only people I know who say that a cooler CCT (coordinated color temperature) is better have been paid off by major automotive lighting companies in the early to mid-2000s, when the NHTSA was considering a blanket ban on tinted halogen bulbs, which are intended to create higher color temperature light.
Higher CCT actually contributes to discomfort glare as well.
>On the other hand several studies [2, 5, 8] have shown that the blue spectral content of a headlamp, although having no significant influence on disability glare, nevertheless increases discomfort glare for the opposing traffic.
 
>Should NEVER have to replace these. Any car I've had with halogens might go 1-3 years depending. I HATE when a bulb goes out at night and you're down to relying on a single headlamp. These LEDs should honestly last longer than I will keep this car.
The adjusted rating of 2.5 stars rating doesn't jive well with the idea that they will last indefinitely.
>Standing in front of the car I don't see any glare, and against the garage there is no light bleeding above the line of site to blind oncoming drivers.
Glare is light with intensities exceeding 700 and 1000 candela, respectively, at 1U, 1.5L-1L and 0.5U, 1.5L-1L. If you could so kindly draw a circle or box around this area in your pictures, at least I would know that you know where the glare zone is. Can you circle the glare zone?
>CAVEAT! (there had to be something right?) Since the housing is a single bulb design, I lost the high beams. Flicking them on I see the light does some kind of change but it is hardly different than the low beam pattern, certainly nothing like the OEM halogen high beam! But IMO the gain in low beam performance far outweighs the use of halogen high beams. YMMV.
Low-beams, even the best-designed ones, enable safe driving in the dark at speeds up to 45 MPH. Consider the Mercedes-Benz C300 with the lighting package.
https://i.imgur.com/mGvDwxU.png
Low beams give ~200 to 350 feet of visibility depending on which side of the road you're looking at. If a pedestrian steps out from the left side of the road, you have ~200 feet to stop. 40 MPH is 60 feet/second. Reaction time is 2 seconds. It takes you 120 feet just to put your foot on the brake pedal. Can you stop from 40 MPH (60 feet/second) in 80 feet? High-beams are critical, and no, not even the best low-beams are sufficient alone.
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Tl;dr: this study says it all:
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2019-01-0850/
>Several different LED replacement bulb kits, each designed to replace a conventional 55-W H11 halogen bulb, were purchased and tested in three different low-beam headlight units. Photometric measurements at several critical test points for headlight performance revealed that none of the resulting distributions met all of the test point photometric requirements.
9 LED bulbs were tested in 3 headlamps (2 reflectors, 1 projector) and all 27 LED bulb+headlamp combinations failed the most basic tests of glare and seeing distance. (They didn't even bother running more comprehensive tests).
Headlights
Fog lights
I have had good success with LED's in a few of my old cars with Halogens and the output has been exceptional so I decided to give the Spark an upgrade.I have had great success with the brand Hikari ( www.hikari-led.com ) on my previous cars, specifically the Spark EV needs the H13 base here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKCNPD1/re ... DbQAR3C5V .
Now let me tell you why Hikari bulbs win: They have an ADJUSTABLE BASE in which the bulb can rotate inside the housing. I was literally able to plug everything up and spin the bulb while watching the pattern change on the garage door. Because of this I was able to fine tune the cutoff to match the stock bulbs.
Ok, so I tried to take pictures of before and after in the same positions on the same night. Since all I have is my cell phone camera it was tricky to get pictures of what I was actually seeing, so hopefully this means something to you!
My review:
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- Beam pattern is good. An even spread of light on the road.
- Field of light coverage is wider with the LEDs, they illuminate farther to the sides and lower in front of the car. Even though they use the same housing, I'm assuming the intensity and higher lumen count adds the extra range in each direction.
- Cutoff is soft. The light has a general fuzzy cutoff of light, the stock bulb might have even been sharper.- Lumen count is MUCH higher than OEM halogen. Reflective road lane paint and road signs lit up much brighter and farther out than halogens. this is probably my favorite benefit of LED.
- The lights have mini fans for cooling that are barely audible but there, just an observation.
- No flicker resistor required! Some American brands flicker when replaced and require an additional resistor relay in place.
- Color temperature looks about 6000k, mostly pure white. This is a preference really, science proves 4300k is the perfect headlight color but suffice it to say these are much "whiter" than halogens.
- 2 Year no questions warranty!
- Should NEVER have to replace these. Any car I've had with halogens might go 1-3 years depending. I HATE when a bulb goes out at night and you're down to relying on a single headlamp. These LEDs should honestly last longer than I will keep this car.
- Standing in front of the car I don't see any glare, and against the garage there is no light bleeding above the line of site to blind oncoming drivers.
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CAVEAT! (there had to be something right?) Since the housing is a single bulb design, I lost the high beams. Flicking them on I see the light does some kind of change but it is hardly different than the low beam pattern, certainly nothing like the OEM halogen high beam! But IMO the gain in low beam performance far outweighs the use of halogen high beams. YMMV.
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https://postimg.cc/gallery/1qq01523s/90a49707/