Reddit reviews Lisle 38350 Exhaust Hanger Removal Pliers
We found 3 Reddit comments about Lisle 38350 Exhaust Hanger Removal Pliers. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
This tool separates the rubber supports from exhaust hanger brackets.The tool works on all import and domestic car and truck exhaust systems that use the rubber hanger supports.The operator simply squeezes the pliers handles to force the rubber support from the exhaust hanger to make a difficult job much easier.The tool works on all import and domestic car and truck exhaust systems that use the rubber hanger supports. The operator simply squeezes the pliers handles to force the rubber support from the exhaust hanger to make a difficult job much easier.
My first actual ""real" job was when I worked in an Automotive shop in High School. Welding exhausts was part of the job.
Tips n' tricks I learned:
Exhaust pipe can be a trick to get find a good ground on and hangers aren't always easy to clamp onto. Take an old truck battery cable, strip off the insulation and make a neat braid out of the copper. Now you have a pony tail ground! To use it, just wrap/loop the bare copper braid around the exhaust pipe and clamp your normal welding ground clamp to it.
Always leak check your work! When you're done welding up the pipe, have an assistant hold a rag or old welding glove over the exhaust outlet to bump up the backpressure while you look/listen/feel for leaks.
Most steel exhaust pipe has "aluminizing" which is just a thin coating of aluminum on the steel. It welds a lot nicer if you strip off the aluminizing with a die grinder flap wheel. Also if the pipe that you're joining to is used and has a lot of carbon/oil residue on the inside, try your best to clean that up too before welding. If you try welding to a pipe with a lot of built up carbon on the inside it'll offgas which can cause problems with the bead wanting to "volcano" and give a nasty looking weld. Clean pipe welds nicest and a little prep goes a long way.
Get the lightest and flexiest MIG whip you can because welding exhaust on the vehicle can require some tricky contortion at times. Also if you can get a Bernard gun with the rotatable head, that helps for tight areas.
Most exhaust pipe is only 16 gauge, so .025" wire is all ya need.
Some semi-specialized tools you may want to get:
These if you don't own a pair already. They work a lot easier than the old standby of using Channellocks and penetrating oil to slip off rubber isolaters.
A can of high temp silver spray paint. Putting a quick coat of high temp paint over where you've welded and/or stripped the aluminizing off the pipe is considered a nice touch. Only takes a couple minutes and 50 cents worth of spraypaint and customers don't like seeing rust on an exhaust they just had replaced a few weeks ago.
"Stud grip" Channellocks or Knipex Cobra pliers because you'll be "cherrying up" a lot of really crusty 3/8", 8mm, and 10mm studs with a torch and you need something that can get a good bite on them to turn them out.
An air cut-off wheel to hack off all the old hangers and hardware that you can't salvage and won't be reusing. I use a crappy old IR 3" , but if you can afford an extended reach model This one is the bomb
Exhaust hanger removal tool.
amazon.com/dp/B0012S9A5U/
It depends entirely on the exhaust you buy. Some may require additional or replacement mounts. I strongly recommend buying a set of exhaust hanger removal pliers like these. When I did the catback on my car, I spent the most time fighting with the damn hangers. If you don't have a set of removal pliers, they're a real pain in the ass. It's also helpful to have a spray-on lubricant (silicone works well) so the rubber hangers slide on and off easier. Aside from that, and assuming your stock exhaust comes off without too much of an issue, it should be fairly trivial.