Reddit reviews Mini Digital 10A Microcomputer Temperature Controller STC-1000 With Sensor 220V/110V

Oh, thanks a bunch!

I liked that solution because I can still use the slow cooker as a slow cooker. And the little controller lives inside it when not in use.

I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-STC-1000-Microcomputer-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00EM2Q9VQ. (That's the 220 volt version you'd likely need.)

It's very easy to wire up. You essentially hook one of the wires from an old extension cord to the electric outlet. The other one goes into the controller, for the heating circuit. Then another wire goes from the heating circuit jumper to the outlet.

So what happens is that when the temp probe senses that the temp is half a degree less than what you set it at, it switches on the heater circuit. That completes the loop to the outlet, which energizes and then powers the slow cooker (this is why you want an analog model, one which is either on or off like a light bulb).

Once the probe senses the target temp has been reached, it shuts the heat circuit off. So basically it vacillates between 53 C and 52.5 C (or whatever temp). The ceramic or the slow cooker holds heat very well. And that towel you see on the side was originally "insulation" for the top. But it's not needed.

It's housed in a box that they use for external electrical things like flood lights. I just went to the home improvement place and fodn one that would fit the controller and wires. But I also like that it keeps the outlet fairly high, in case of spills and such.

I've left it running all night, on 72 hour cooks, etc. Perfectly safe.

Total cost, not including the cooker, was around $40. It took perhaps 45 minutes to build and test. The unit also has a cooling circuit, which does the reverse of the heating one, so it's perfectly suitable for use as a meat curing chamber, a beer cooler, etc. You can also use it as a yogurt maker.

It does get attention. I've built three of them so far, and have the parts to build a fourth for a friend.

The one downside is lack of water circulation. But I find with thinner things like steaks it's fine without it. An entire chicken or whatever might need one, though.

I've done steak, fish, pork chops, lamb, shrimp (makes awesome shrimp scampi, just put the butter and garlic right in the bag and then saute for 45 seconds when it's been cooked through in the water bath), scallops, eggs, asparagus, etc. It makes a fucking fantastic scallop, by the way. Exactly, precisely cooked interior, and then you just char the outer bits in a hot pan with a little clarified butter. Some folks use a torch for this even. Best scallops I've ever eaten, including some very expensive ones in restaurants.

Oh, and if you want beef short ribs, you seriously want to sous vide them. Holy balls do they come out superb.

I could gin up some diagrams for you, or do a search for "stc-1000 sous vide controller" and you'll find a bunch of stuff.

110V version

220V verstion

Based on what I'm reading on the links above (I haven't used this product before) they are both rated for up to 10amps at 250V on the circuit they are controlling (your compressor or heater). The difference is the power supply for the controller itself.

If you are using this to control a 110V refrigeration compressor, heater, gas valve, etc, then get the 110V version because otherwise you would have to run a separate 220V circuit to the controller.

If you are using this to control a 220V electric heater (or anything else 220V) then you have a choice: use the 220V version, or run a 110V circuit to the controller, since there is probably a 110V circuit nearby. 220V is only used for large appliances (dryers, central AC systems, etc). Those circuits typically don't leave the basement.