Reddit reviews Red Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector - 18-22 Gauge - 25 Pack
We found 6 Reddit comments about Red Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector - 18-22 Gauge - 25 Pack. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Quickest and easiest way to splice, split or tap wiresJust insert wires and snap shut - solid, permanent connection without solderJoin 2 lengths of wire together or tap into existing lineDurable insulating thermoplastic clam body, resealable; sold in packs of 25Non-corroding metal contact blade; fits 18-22 AWG wire, also available in 14-16, 14-18 & 10-12 gauge
Today I decided to mount my Streamlight SL-20LP flashlight in the cargo area of my 15 JKUR.
The version of the light I have came with a 12v DC charger, but any version with the drop-in charger will work, (the DC or AC) since I cut the wires and spliced into my rear 12v socket.
If you don't have the rear 12v socket I believe the plug from the wiring harness is still there, and you could splice into that. Not 100% sure though. The models with the rear factory sub have the 12v from my understanding.
Since the 12v socket is on the passenger side surrounded by a big piece of plastic I figured that was a great spot to mount the light.
I wanted to make sure the 12v socket wasn't always 'hot.' I don't drive the vehicle often and wanted to make sure the battery wouldn't run down over time (unlikely but you never know). With my vehicle off my DVOM showed 12v from the plug. I bit of research lead me to this thread (http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-electrical-lighting-sound-systems-13/source-power-rear-jk-274559/). There is a fuse under the hood that can be moved one spot over to make the plug only function when the key is in accessory or run mode. Perfect! It took me a minute to find the fuse as the layout of my fuse box was slightly different then the one pictured in the thread. The fuse was a yellow 20 amp, near the center of the engine compartment. You'll know which one it is because there is a single empty slot next to it, where all the other fuses have their own spots, or two slots for one fuse to slide into. I moved the fuse over one spot and was now only getting power when the key was on.
I pulled the passenger side plastic panel off the back. I started by removing the torx screws at the bottom where the metal tie down rings are. I also lifted the floor panel that houses the jack, etc. Once the screws were out I started working the panel off with my hands. It takes a bit of effort. It's a pretty large piece so I wasn't overly concerned with damaging it. Eventually it will pop off far enough you can get your hand behind it.
The factory 12v socket is plugged into the wiring harness. There is a little tab at the bottom of the plug you push in and the wire from the harness comes out of the back of the socket.
There is some wide electrical tape along the wires from the harness that go to the 12v socket. I was able to work this off about 6" and tear it off. I tested the wires on the plug to find which one was hot and ground. You can test them yourself or take my word for it, black is ground and the colored one is hot. I also tested the wires on my Streamlight charger. The end of the cable that plugs into the charger has a + and - on it. On mine the cable with the lettering and white " - - - - - - - " was the hot, and the other ground.
I cut the cable for the charger about 8" up from the 12v plug, this will allow me to save the plug and reuse it on some other project later on.
I used these (http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE) to connect the leads from my Streamlight charger to the leads from the harness for the 12v socket. They allow you to "tap" off of one wire without having to cut and solder it.
Once the wires were spliced in I turned the key and made sure I had proper power to the charger plug and 12v socket plug. I then wrapped the wiring harness cable with electrical tape to keep the wires from getting snagged and pulled out of the splice. I plugged the 12v connector back into the socket. Then zip tied the extra cable for the flashlight charger and tucked it away behind the panel.
Finally I routed the charger plug end for the flashlight out through the slot for the tailgate arm. I then snapped the plastic cover back and screwed the tie downs back in.
Make sure to plug the charger end into the flashlight mount before mounting it. I forgot to do this and ran into a clearance issue when I tried to plug it in after I screwed the mount into the plastic panel. I was able to back the screws out and plug it in, then screw them in. But it's easier to do it right the first time.
Drop the flashlight into the mount and find a good spot. Make sure the wires coming from the tailgate arm slot are clear of the tailgate arm and shut the tailgate. Find a spot you would like to mount the light and make sure it'll clear the tailgate. You could probably mount it to the tailgate if you would like and run the cable through the sleeve with the other wires that go into the tailgate.
I was able to use the screws provided from Streamlight and a screwdriver to put the screws in, no drilling required. They hold fairly well into the plastic. There is no "play" and I can drop the flashlight in without any issues. However for a more secure option you may want to consider bolts and washers behind the plastic piece.
Turn the key on and make sure everything looks well. You now have an easily accessible flashlight that's always fully charged!
Red Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector - 18-22 Gauge - 25 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PR52AHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OpBxCbKP2FK2J
That type of connector. The center wire on the lighter is positive, the outer part of the socket is negative.
Switch panel (old photo, I have a better CB now)
http://i.imgur.com/SrV5t3I.jpg
The subwoofer trunk floor
http://i.imgur.com/76YNRIr.jpg
Yup, scratchy pots is usually just oxidation on the resistive surfaces or contacts. Contact cleaner can take care of it. Check out this vid for some instructions. I'm guessing he's got a similar setup to you.
As for the 9v connector, cut out the old one and splice in a new one. Youtube to the rescue! If you don't have access to a soldering iron you could use a solderless quick connect as it's just two wires. Solder connection and shrink wrap is the "cleaner" way of doing things.
https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE
Something like this
I used a quick splice connector and insulating gel that came in the wiring kit from KC to tap into the cigarette lighter power.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003SYYGXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1456922463&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=doorman+85462
http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Gauge-Solderless-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE
I'm assuming you are referring to these: https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE I personally don't like them, but they work fine for low voltage. I'm assuming there is a 12awg running between the dioramas that gets connected when you arrive and the desire for the 22awg is to attempt to hide the wire. This is a low voltage low amp application, so it shouldn't be an issue.