Reddit Reddit reviews The Watch Repairer's Manual

We found 4 Reddit comments about The Watch Repairer's Manual. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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4 Reddit comments about The Watch Repairer's Manual:

u/ddrescueb2048 · 2 pointsr/Watches

Spare parts availability is a biggie for sure.

I started with a manual wind Sellita because it was a nice balance of quality and price... but more importantly brand new parts were readily available from Otto Frei.

I could have started out cheaper or on potentially worn out movements but being able to use easy to find brand new replacement parts was a nice convenience.

For example, a lot of older Seiko 5s have a worn out bushing and suitable replacements are not available. The best you could do is scrap one from another movement. The problem with that is donor movements have most likely worn out the same part also. To fix it you need to get creative with some specialized tools which really complicates things when you are first learning.

It looks like you are already underway so if you haven't already you should pick up a copy of these books. If you only get one then, anecdotally speaking anyway, I reference Fried's book the most. However, they are both worth it if you can afford it.

https://www.amazon.com/Watch-Repairers-Manual-Henry-Fried/dp/1626549982

https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Watch-Repairing-Donald-Carle/dp/1602393575

u/West_Coast_Time · 2 pointsr/Watches

Much more likely to have success by starting on a pocket watch movement over a wristwatch movement.

Elgin 12size to 16size, 17jewel, or similar would be much easier to work with, & with plenty to be found for $50 & under.

Youtube is a good resource, if you like learning via video, or "The Watch Repairer's Manual" by Fried;
https://www.amazon.com/Watch-Repairers-Manual-Henry-Fried/dp/1626549982/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=freid+watchmaking&qid=1574838444&sr=8-1-spell

u/Bits_and_Bobs · 2 pointsr/WatchHorology

That is precisely the attitude you should have when you want to begin learning. My pick for the best book to use as a basic primer is The Watch Repairer's Manual. After reading and understanding the first few chapters, you'll want to start building up your toolkit. I suggest a decent but relatively cheap set of French screwdrivers, a general purpose AM style brass tweezer for handling bridges and larger wheels/parts, and an anti-magnetic #3 tweezer for smaller parts. Loupes, a couple of other tweezers, and other tools will follow in due course. I'm only too happy to throw my two cents in, if you're interested. Finally, I highly suggest not starting by working on working watches. The watchmaker that taught me used to say "Entropy only flows in one direction" when asked why we started by working on old junky corroded watches. Broken or junky watches can generally be bought for very little money singly, and sometimes even in small lots of ten or more. You should look at as many different movements as you can in order to familiarize yourself with how the parts are laid out. Don't be afraid of the tiny ladies watches either. If you can work on them, you can definitely work on the normal sized men's watches. They're not more difficult, just smaller.

u/arguablytrue · 2 pointsr/watchmaking

Moebius 9010 is perfect for all the pivot points, but the pros use heavier weight oils like 8200 for the mainspring or other really heavy force stuff like keyless works (sometimes even a grease is used). You could use the lighter stuff, but it won't spread around the mainspring and it might be too lightweight. Worst case is you'll need to clean and oil the watch in 2 years instead of 10.

Oiling is an art. Is the watch clean first? Have you used pith wood to clean all the pivots and such? No point oiling a dirty movement.

And when it comes time to oiling, you use the tip of a tiniest black oiler (like a flattened pin point) to pick up just a little oil, and put it on every pivot. It'll just wet the inside of the jewel hole and the pivot point, NO MORE. Ditto for the non-jeweled pivot holes. For the end-capped mainstaff jewel, take off the cap jewel and oil the jewel under it, then put the cap back on.
There should be a tiny circle of oil AND NO MORE. For escape jewels, just the face of the jewel that slides on the escape wheel.

If you put too much oil, it'll gum up the works, and attract dust. General rule is too little is better than too much.

Edit: For real. Buy this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Watch-Repairers-Manual-Henry-Fried/dp/1626549982

Or find it in the library and check it out right now. Reading it will be a real education. Of course, you can also find youtube videos too. But this is a great reference. For example, it has a whole section on proper oiling techniques.