Reddit reviews Weber Hypo-Allergenic Turpentine Substitute Turpenoid, Artist Paint Thinner and Cleaner, 1 qt, White
We found 2 Reddit comments about Weber Hypo-Allergenic Turpentine Substitute Turpenoid, Artist Paint Thinner and Cleaner, 1 qt, White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Recognized by artists as the #1 odorless, volatile and thin turpentine substituteSame painting properties and drying time as turpentineOdorless - does not have the strong odor like turpentine hasCompatible with oil and alkyd colors as a painting vehicle either alone or in mediums without affecting colorMade in USA
I use odorless turpentine which is a solvent substitute. I choose that because it doesn’t give off any smell and is safer to use than other solvents. I would recommend that to start if you can get your hands on it. If not linseed oil works just the same.
I do not believe olive oil or sunflower oil will work. They MIGHT thin your paint but they will not dry well (or at all) and they will likely yellow the painting if they do dry.
>What is going on with the cockpit hood? Do you just use one or the other...the clear plastic or the gray frame?
Correct. The studio models for the films did not use glass in the canopy to avoid glare. I prefer them on the model. I'd rather not A) Mask the clear plastic and paint it or B) Use the decal. So the canopy without glass seemed the best option. I tried to match the paint I used against the color of the canopy decal and got pretty close.
>Did you use a base coat on your X-wing? I put a layer on mine but I'm worried is too dark...It's closer to Tie Fighter gray...
I did prime it in Alclad II grey, then did panel line shading with a heavily thinned black, and then came over it with a top coat of 70% Tamiya flat white mixed with 30% Tamiya Sky Grey. It's too dark IMO, but livable. I see most people mix Deck Tan with the White to get close.
>Also, perhaps I applied too much paint, but there are a lot of streaks visible on the first coat that I did...again maybe will disappear as I put more into it?
I assume you're brush painting based on the symptoms. Usually paint will self-level a bit in those cases, but I don't have much advice to offer other than considering an investment into an airbrush (and possibly thinning the paint to make it less clumpy, then do multiple coats). I just got one recently when I decided to get back into model building after years and it's made things so much easier when laying down quality paint layers.
>so I bought some decal set solution, a glossy acrylic spray, and a dull matte spray. Should I do the weathering with the black wash before I put the gloss coat on? Or should it be after I apply decals and before I put the final matte coating on?
I would consider two things here. There are washes and filters. Washes are when you want to get paint into recesses like panel lines, etc. For those, gloss coats are best as it helps the paint use a capillary effect. For filters, it's more for a wider area to be affected, like discoloration, etc. In those cases you want to try using a matte coat since the whole surface would have bumps and such to hold the paint. Not sure if I explained that correctly.
http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-oil-weathering-tutorial
The above guide is what I used when I was learning the process.
Couple of videos that I used to learn too:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfsFGZbiDLM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrCueONhuko
I do a clear coat, wait 24 hours, then apply my decals. I let those dry for a day, then hit it again with another clear coat and wait another 24 hours. Then I polish the clear coat as much as I can with a coffee filter to smooth it out more for the oil wash to flow better over it.
After I do the oil wash, I wait 5 days for it to cure, then hit it with the final matte coat (70% future, 30% Tamiya flat base). I've read that if you don't let the oil paints cure enough, it can get discolored by the varnish.
Since I used an acrylic clear coat (Future floor wax), I ended up using artist oil paints (Payne's Grey and Burnt Umber) along with Turpenoid (blue label) to remove it. The first wing section I did an oil wash on got destroyed by turpentine. It took the paint all the way to the plastic, and turned the plastic into chalk. Be very careful what you do your washes with on these Bandai kits. I wouldn't let anything other than Turpenoid touch it from now on. Had to rebuild that wing section, which meant I had to buy another kit :|
Here's a link to the product:
https://www.amazon.com/Martin-F-Weber-Odorless-Turpenoid/dp/B000YQM9G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487701160&sr=8-1&keywords=turpenoid
Artist oils to home brew the Starship Filth wash that is pretty popular and impossible to find these days (was a MiG product):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IL2HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060KU45K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1