(Part 3) Best air conditioning tools & equipment according to redditors
We found 191 Reddit comments discussing the best air conditioning tools & equipment. We ranked the 77 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Depends on your compressor. If it's shitty with no water separator you should do it more often. One squirt before each use goes a long way to helping a cheap tool last. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V5E9HG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_UmKjxb7RM3J56
It will withstand it mechanically but you will not be able to get down to those levels with a glass vacuum jar and a regular pump. The seal at the base won't be good enough for that. You need scientific grade stuff for that, and $600 is more like the cost of a few flanges. You'd want another zero or two to get a system that can get to 10e-8 torr.
Here's a starter system that's still probably not able to get that low:
http://www.lesker.com/newweb/chambers/std_boxchamber.cfm
What pump are you planning on using? A normal vacuum pump won't even come close. Like, not even remotely close.
This unit:
https://www.amazon.com/HomCom-Single-Stage-Rotary-Vacuum/dp/B00TUGWKAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480446818&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=vacuum+pump&psc=1
goes to about 0.04 torr (4e-2) and is a fairly common pump. I think you'd need cryogenic pumps to get down to 10e-8.
Dye takes time to leak out. I'd suggest coming back in a month. If you can find it with dye in an hour, you could most definitely use a sniffer to find it. My sniffer is bad ass I only use dye as a last resort.
Sniffer: Fieldpiece Heated Diode Refrigerant Leak Detector - SRL8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023SMJL0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_LF4YCbR4D2DT7
http://www.amazon.com/TSI-Supercool-Micron-Vacuum-13661/dp/B008PKUUPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395941910&sr=8-1&keywords=vacuum+pump+15+micron
http://www.amazon.com/Stage-Electric-Vacuum-Pump-Conditioning/dp/B00FISBMII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395941910&sr=8-3&keywords=vacuum+pump+15+micron
S.U.R. makes replacement line and fittings, many independent garages will have their kits or you can buy them on Amazon or Advance Auto.
If the other end of the line is OK and the line is routed through the body and not accessible, you can cut the line back to solid hose, install either a barb or compression union on the end, and add new line to the new fitting.
NOTE: those may not be the right fittings for your application, select the correct ones based on fuel line size.
On my car yes, because it's gasoline. I'm trying to say that vehicles with low manifold vacuum like diesels often have external vacuum pumps. Didn't realize this was such a controversial opinion. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Electrical-Vacuum-Select/dp/B001KQF6PC
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Now, if the brakes are powered by hydraulic assist from the power steering instead then fair enough. I ain't a diesel guy.
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Will seppuku restore my honor?
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Electric-Vacuum-Refrigerant-Conditioner/dp/B012CFTZII/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=refrigeration+pump&qid=1565151883&s=gateway&sr=8-6
When I transfer worts and don't want to lift the carboys, I use those rubber two-nipple caps on the receiving carboy, then a kind of thumper jar between the receiving carboy and the pump to prevent liquid intake.
Although if sucking up high-purity ethanol, it's not a bad idea to also include a cold trap to keep any ethanol from getting into the pump seals. I use a mason jar full of ice-cubes for this.
If you don't want to buy something, you can also scavenge the pump from an old (but running) refrigerator or water cooler. They'll pull a decent vacuum on one line and spit out pressure (and refrigeration oil lubricant) on the other. You want to construct a kind of apparatus to capture that oil and return it to the pump.
I did a lot of vacuum investing/casting of resins using only an old refrigerator compressor before I bought a (used, professional) version of the thing in the amazon link.
Any professional setup uses a refrigerant tank....http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-63010-Yellow-Refrigerant-Recovery/dp/B00NY1Y0LW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422070971&sr=8-3&keywords=refrigerant+tank
The 50lb makes for faster solvent transfer i believe (more surface area, you also never fill them 100%) ....otherwise just get a 30....or go with your idea of making the more passive friendly 2nd spool...you can flip it upside down and such.
Yeah it's a coolant leak allright then.
Techniques for coolant leaks:
Pressurize the system, listen and look. Maybe not this one, but you get the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476535&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+pressure+tester
UV dye. Same, not a recommendation, just a link to the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-4972-Fluorescent-Leak-Detection/dp/B008QEYTZ4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476572&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+UV+dye+kit
But with your rate of draining, you should be able to find it just by eyeballing. Bet that engine compartment is cramped. 'Course they make stuff for that too. Mirrors on sticks, borescopes.
Jags love to mark their territory.
Check the radiator, hoses, especially where they connect or have a junction. Check the water pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2VPC4/
I got this beauty
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088NW14O/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1420259242&sr=1&keywords=refrigerant+leak+detector
That's the one I bought.
Heres a video of me using it.
http://1drv.ms/1xhAkko
sorry to bug again but how about his pump http://www.amazon.com/VP125-Rotary-Vane-Deep-Vacuum/dp/B006P7LBFK/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1369353793&sr=1-17&keywords=vacuum+pump
Nope. This is my new one. Got it used and a great deal from a guy getting out of the business.
https://www.amazon.com/Industries-GIDDS-131245-Platinum-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B003M5NCKU
Is the system charged up or not?
There’s a tool that lets you swap valve cores without losing charge, but not sure if it would work with that buggered up valve core.
https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-18985-Removal-Support/dp/B003F7AVYU
Not something easily done DIY if you haven't done it before. You would need a manifold gauge and know how to use it. If he is quoting 3lbs refrigerant as part of the coil replacement chances are it's low. Replacing the coil shouldn't require any additional refrigerant as the existing stuff would be vacuumed out before the coil was removed and pumped back after it was replaced.
Definitely call another company and get their opinion.
Flushy-thingy: TSI 27361 A/C Flush Gun
Bad?
I've used them on cars before using the same process, I thought it was basically the same thing. But I also don't know what the hell I'm really doing, so there's that too :)
My first idea would be something like this.
Check the water that drips from your AC for Dye. If that's got dye, that'd def your evap core.
There are refrigerant detectors (see /u/Vistandsforvicious 's post). You turn the AC on, and it can detect very small refrigerant leaks. Most AC shops should have one. They look like this And basically sniff to find very small leaks. Beeping when stuck into your vents when the AC is running means your evap core is leaking, no beep... no leak. I'd suggest getting a professional to do it, not the crappy one I linked. Or you can roll the dice and use the el-cheap-o from amazon.
edit: But if it's a leak, you should be able to do it with 0 guesswork involved. It just takes a lot of persistance. Use a q-tip to clean up that spot of oil on the back of the compressor, and see if recharging it makes the oil spot come back.
PS: If you're adding refrigerant, do not use the crap with leakstop. Use something like this with the white cans of only-refrigerant to fill your AC. If you're refilling it yourself, I wrote a long post on how to do it mostly-correctly.
Air line