Best automatic irrigation controllers according to redditors

It looks like a thermal burn to me, if it's also scale rot, the care instructions would be the same. But if you are not regulating your heat sources, it's probably a burn.

Inkbird makes some affordable thermostats with a few extra safety features. I would start off by making sure every heat source (heating pads, lamps) are hooked up to one. If you have extra money and want a ton of safety features, go with something by Spyder Robotics - their Herpstat line is the best of the best and they are what I use. I know places like PetCo / etc don't say you need a thermostat, but they are absolutely a must-have. Even the most high end heat pads that swear they don't go over X degrees can and will fail and will get hot enough to burn a pet.

Make sure humidity is above 60% at all times. If you are using an enclosure with wire mesh top, cover most of it in saran wrap or foil, this should keep the humidity in. Even after your snake gets better, keep humidity at this level.

Switch to unprinted newspaper or undyed paper towels for substrate for now. Something easily cleanable and sterile. Change it often. Change water and wash bowl daily. Going for a sterile environment while she heals. If you haven't done a deep clean, get some F10 SC and do a deep clean of her enclosure and everything in it. This stuff looks SUPER SCARY, but it's ok! I put 1 ounce in an empty spray bottle and then fill the rest of the spray bottle with water, so it's super diluted. Once diluted, it can be sprayed on any of her decor and be left to dry and still be safe for her.

It goes without saying, but also follow any medication and care directions the vet gives!

Also - there's a lot of info in here that you might not have known before, and it's really understandable. There's a lot of incomplete, inaccurate, and out of date care sheets out there for ball pythons, and even after doing a ton of research, you still could have missed something. But you've figured it out now, and are taking appropriate steps to make her better which is a ton better than a lot of other pet owners. I hope your girl makes a full recovery and you have many more years with her. Please keep us updated!

I would either stop feeding (she probably wouldn't take it anyways) for now, or go down a prey size until she is better.

a thermostat is a device that regulates the power of another device, such as a heat lamp, in order to control the temperature. a thermometer measures temperature, nothing else.

i'm seeing a ton of red flags here, so i'm going to post my BP info dump. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

good effort, but don't get that one, get this one. it's cheaper, by the same company, and the probe is designed for aquariums:


https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Inkbird+Digital+Temperature+Controller+Thermostat&qid=1554760604&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3-catcorr

Incredibly satisfying to replace the old sprinkler face plate with the one that connects to WiFi and let’s you control everything on your phone...

Rain-Bird ESP-ME Upgrade Panel WiFi Enabled Irrigation WiFi Zone Controller Timer Box and Link Lnk WiFi Mobile Wireless Smartphone Upgrade Module Sprinkler System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8W2W8B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KBpnDbWY8YHDA

Yes. This is the controller I have I got the 4 zone but they have an 8 and a 12. This is the rain sensor I have


It works great. Adjusts watering depending on the forecast (which I love) and the rain sensor acts as a hard stop when the weather people are wrong.


And when one of my valves failed Orbit sent me another no questions asked, their support people are excellent to deal with.

Can I ask why you would do this vs using a solar powered irrigation switch/timer off the shelf? It would be cheaper, use less power (100% solar powered), and also includes things like integration with rain sensors to automatically delay after a customizable amount of rainfall. Plus its natively waterproof which the pi is not. By the time you built in equivalent functionality and features, you'd most likely be more expensive.

DIG 100 timer (example, this is single zone, multizone equivalents exist):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q53N2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_73GiDbFCJN6WK

Rain bird rain sensor:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MICVDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5GiDbEEM8ZST

Not trying to tell you not to do it, but there are ready to go solutions available off the shelf which will use zero power and are purpose built and have gone through QA to do this. If this is a learning project/exercise, by all means.

Solenoid valves something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-CP100-Automatic-Sprinkler/dp/B00002N8NN

I replaced an old controller so I already had all the valves, piping and sprinkler heads.

It is time you need to control, not how many gallons of water come out of the sprinkler heads. Your greenery will dictate how many gallons per week you need to keep everything looking good. Investing in a system that can adjust to your weather will pay off after a few seasons:

https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-8-Zone/dp/B07CZ864Y9

Next time use something like THIS It saved my plants when I was away for 1 week.

As I'm sure you already know, Plant growth and health is limited by 3 factors on a sliding scale. Light, nutrients, and co2. If any of them are not present it inhibits the plant's ability to uptake the other two. I struggled for a very long time in my 20 gallon until I CONSISTENTLY provided all 3.

• At first it was the lighting. I couldn't get algae under control so I cut my light schedule then slowly tried to ramp it back up. It fucked up everything in my tank and black beard algae went ham on everything. The final solution I came to and the one that has been working excellently now is a schedule of - On from 7am-1pm, off til 5pm, On from 5pm to 9pm. The "siesta" in the middle allows for a build-up of CO2 (Walstad Method) and also severely inhibits bad algae growth (I need some algae as I have ottos, snails, and amano shrimp). First, I would suggest my lighting schedule and see how it works for you. If you aren't using timers they are absolutely essential to healthy plant growth. (Keep in mind we are using the exact same light, Planted+).
  
  
• Nutrients...I can't stress enough how important consistent, long-term fertilization is. I have some low-grow repens in my tank. When I first planted them they barely did anything. Once i dialed in my CO2 injection, and was consistently EI dosing for a few weeks they absolutely exploded. Something then happened in my family and I neglected the fertilization schedule for just about 1 week...and eeeeevery, single, part of it completely died off and melted away aside from the central stem. Instead of pulling them, I figured, "what the hell" and just started fertilizing again and within 3 weeks they were absolutely gorgeous and taking over my tank again. If you get a 1lb bag each of Potassium Nitrate, Monosodium Phosphate, and a Trace product called CSM+B, they will run about $30.00 total and last you for YEARS. Dosing is beyond easy as long as you have a scale ($8 on Amazon). Here is the calculator I use: http://www.aquariumcalculators.com/aquarium-plant-food/estimative-index/
  
  
• Seeing that you are in Alaska it seems like CO2 is going to be the most difficult aspect to integrate into your system. If you have access to a sporting goods store that refills CO2 canisters for Paintball then you can do what I am doing. All you would need (These are literally the items I bought from Amazon):
  
  
  • CO2 canister: link
    
    
  • Adapter to run canister to a silinoid regulator: link
    
    
  • Silinoid regulator so you can turn the co2 on and off with your light timer: link
    
    
  • We havent talked about filters but if you happen to be running a canister filter you can inject the CO2 inline with a reactor like this on your outflow: link
    
    
  • And in case you aren't running a canister a simple diffuser like this will do jut fine: link
    
    The startup cost is a bit, but once you are up and running it only costs ~$4.00 to refill a 24oz. Canister and one canister lasts me a month and half easy.
    
    If you don't have access to co2 refills then a DIY setup would be the only option and I have absolutely no experience with those unfortunately. One other option, while more expensive, are the fluval injection systems: link
    
    

1. Make sure you fertilize consistently. I highly recommend EI dosing.
   
   
2. Try my lighting schedule
   
   
3. Figure out a way to introduce co2 to your tank.

Just get an inkbird and turn the freezer down to the coldest setting possible. I attach the temperature probe to the side of my fermenter with some type of insulation. There is a couple options for warming as well if you do some light googling.

I am using one of these personally with a pair of Eheim heaters:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

This setup has a solenoid that can be connected to a timer, here are the links.


Tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XKFQCM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KVG6PI8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Adapter for tank to reg: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Bubble counter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N2M2B6E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you watch the discussion video?

The wax in the measuring cup was barely liquid, it was quite manageable. I do agree that it would be nicer to have a melt pot and ladle the wax out from there. I've been eyeing this and this.

Yeah, wax does make a mess. I usually have a set of sheets set aside for wax play. I have been impressed with the beeswax as it's more solid when it dries and It was easy to clean up.

Soy wax is the absolute easiest as it washes out of most things.

I was using a Blumfeld battery power timer and pump (amazon) to water. This pump is sitting on the edge of a 5g bucket outside the tent. The bucket has the same nutrient mixture as what is in the res for each plant. It was set to water every 7 hours for 25 second run time. This provided about 100-150ml of water to the plants each time it ran.

The Strawberry Nuggets took 7 days for roots to reach the res, Cookies took 8. I turned off the auto-water pump on day 9. Today is day 11 and they are happy girls.

Fermentation temp will be higher than ambient, so 65-72 ambient could be pushing you out of optimal for some yeasts, though you could be fine.

I bought a chest freezer on sale and an inkbird temp controller and this works well for me and would fit in your budget. Even more so if you’re willing to find a Craigslist freezer. My (7 cu ft?) freezer can squeeze in two PET carboys if needed, though I currently just do 5 gal batches.

This is a very common mistake, but it can have very deadly consequences if not changed.

Get a [thermostat](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5396573/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14493505548356397280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-326308171578 (I linked the one I have, it's not too expensive and it works great) as soon as possible, otherwise you risk burning your snake very badly, and the vet bills caused by that would be much more expensive than the thermostat, not to mention the emotional distress.

Very cool you're using Amazon Smile mate.

There are a couple of alternatives, a couple of folk I know are using the one you linked.

I bought this one but it broke on fairly quick. So I used the manifold and set up my own auto feed system using a smartplug and a water pump. I used the manifold off the green thing though, this is my set up.

A lot of people use BluMats very successfully (both the originals and the knock-offs). Maybe those could be your way forward?

It looks like a sprinkler control adaptor from this angle, similar to

www.amazon.com/Irritrol-2623DPR-75-Electric-Valve-Adapter/dp/B0008D4ZBE

Does its bottom have plumbing fittings?

Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.

A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.

I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.

Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.

Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer

You can use either an overhead heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (they put off heat and no light) or an under tank source like an undertank heat pad. Any kind of source needs to be on a thermostat (such as this one) so it doesn't get too hot. IIRC, cali kings need a hotspot of around 85F.

It does sound like he's trying to shed. You may need to bring the humidity up a bit for him. Misting a couple of times a day with a hand mister might help him out (distilled or reverse osmosis water will prevent water spots on glass). Another option is to make a humid hide. Some kind of container that is completely sealed except for one entrance, with some damp sphagnum moss inside.
You can also provide him a deep water dish...big enough for him to lay in. My Florida kingsnake likes to lay in his water dish from time to time, but they like a bit more humidity in general compared to calis.

You need a thermostat. Place the probe between the map and the bottom of the tank. All below the tank. Inexpensive thermostats:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/

Haven't grown my koji yet because I'm on vacation, but here's what I purchased and it all works:

​

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ND7N8L/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Perforated pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E95D6H0/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VZ6Y4O/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FKG4CC/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Heating pad (I fold it in half): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Styrofoam container: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NO6F8E/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would offer to water them but I'm a total stranger and I just moved the only car I had in Cincinnati to Granby Colorado, I won't have a ride for a week or two. I'd just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Yardeen-Automatic-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Controller/dp/B01J9FXCS8

looks good. if your interested in exploring this type of cooking more but don't want to spring for an anova or other sousvide cooker. use the crockpot method. more precise. and can do longer cooks without losing heat.

basically you hook this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5097413/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12722699865548230849&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017523&hvtargid=pla-326308171578

inline with your crockpot. then put the temp probe in the water. bring water up to temp with high once its at temp though switch it to low or warm, otherwise the heater element gets too much momentum during heat cycles and overshoots the temperature. this is what I use currently. i've done 48hr chuck roasts in it and works awesome.

Smart Thermostat: I use the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat (as my smart home is "mostly" Z-Wave). I considered Ecobee (I hate Nest), but went with this as I don't really need a "learning" thermostat...do this temperature when I am home, do that one when I am not home.

Sprinkler control: Rachio (Amazon Link) - best sprinkler controller I have ever had...depending on where you live, you might even get a rebate on your water due to the water savings this has.

Smart Door Lock: Kwikset (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave as I use Z-Wave. A cool thing about this lock is that you can re-key it yourself.

Temperature Sensor: SmartThings Motion Sensor (Amazon Link) - it reports temperature, and it's ZigBee

Leak Sensor: Samsung SmartThings Leak Sensor (Amazon Link) - it's ZigBee, but I have built out a smaller ZigBee network too.

Garage Door Opener: GoControl (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave.

​

Multi-Purpose Sensor: SmartThings (Amazon Link) - Open/Close, Temperature, Vibration: I have one of these on each my closet doors (when I open the door, the closet light turns on...when I close the door the light turns off). I also have one on my Gun Safe (so I get notified if my gun safe door is open...also get vibration notifications if it's being tampered with)

The temperature/motion sensor is a nice combination. For example, I have one of these outside on my lanai. When it detects motion, it turns the fans on...but only if the temperature is over 74 F). I have a few of these inside that turn on small table lamps at night when motion is detected (versus large/bright lights) because the night is dark, and full of terrors.

​

Don't know if you have a pool, but I use iAqualink as my pool controller. It has it's own app, and now integrates with Alexa (doesn't integrate with SmartThings yet). But it's nice being able to turn on the spa and spa heater while out for dinner, and having it be up to temperature by the time you get home.

​

Oh - and check out Sonos for whole house audio. I SOOOOOOOOO love my Sonos speakers.

Inkbird thermostat, I figured it would be good enough to use temporarily. I have my other snake on a Herpstat 2 and I intend to use it for the BP too, once she's done with quarantine.

I use this temp gun to check the temps under the hide, at least once a day.

Yep. 9 months of the year, anyway. I hook one of these to the exhaust on each tent. Set it to kick on at 76, off at 73.

In the Summer, they run all the time during lights on (holding at ~80 degrees). Fall and Spring they run about half the time. I'm in a cold climate, so in my winters I have to make some adjustments (62 degree ambient).

During the cold months, I leave the thermostat in place, but run a small duct fan before the exhaust, which runs 24/7. It's enough to keep humidity from building up too much, which it would normally. Especially during the dark cycle. . .also, I run COBs and Strip fixtures, which generate very little heat, so Jan/Feb my tents might not hit 76 degrees, at all. Then I dial down, and grow everything between 62 degrees (dark) and 72 degrees (light).

TBH, I've only done one winter cycle with the COB/Strip LEDs, but the plants grown in the cold were better, quality-wise, then the summer plants. Although a bit less yield. . .all that is anecdotal, of course.

Oh, also, if you aren't already, consider how to exhaust back into your room as the cold weather comes. It'll keep humidity up, and you won't be exhausting warm air, only to pay to warm that air again.

Cool, like this?

Liquor! Music! TV!

How is everyone tonight?

Edit: I didn't read the directions!

Wish

Ouch... Well that's certainly an option but...

https://www.amazon.com/Hunter-Sprinkler-PGV101G-1-Inch-Control/dp/B00FYRJYVA/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=irrigation+valve&qid=1550941003&s=gateway&sr=8-11

I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
  Set-up Recommendations
  
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
  Copypasta version 7/24/2018 (c) /u/_Ataraxia
  
  I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Check out this controller.

[Rachio](Rachio 3 WiFi Smart Lawn Sprinkler Controller, Works with Alexa, 8-Zone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ864Y9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3QDIBb1EN0DSY)

You need this device and a heater. It can be used to cool also. It has 2 outlets for each. Set it and forget it. Other redditors told me about it and it's a blessing. Inkbird

Yeah, I suppose that would work. All you would need then is just a single stage temp controller such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5149652

If you don't have too many you can use an automatic pump. https://www.amazon.com/Yardeen-Automatic-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Controller/dp/B01J9FXCS8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=automatic+plant+water+pump&qid=1555690261&s=gateway&sr=8-3