Best bearing pullers according to redditors
We found 8 Reddit comments discussing the best bearing pullers. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 8 Reddit comments discussing the best bearing pullers. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).
Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.
The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.
Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.
Tools needed:
Parts needed:
On a 8.25...
Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.
Good job. I know you're finished, but there's a tool for this. It attaches to the end of a slide hammer.
Shankly Rear Axle Bearing Puller, Axle Bearing Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KYKPVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7QP5BbV2DG90N
I bought mine (OTC) from the pawn shop (I work on a fleet of crown vics for a security company). Super easy with this tool.
They are pressed fit to the shaft. The proper way to get them off without any damage is to use a little bearing puller. Not exactly a common tool for the 3D printing crowd.
And unlike a cup n cone, you can bring these beauties back to like new every time :) you will however need some way to get the cartridges out and back in squarely, or you can damage the hubshell. A tool like this is the cheap way to remove though they can be pretty finicky. A proper slide-hammer bearing puller can be fairly expensive. Then you can carefully tap the new bearing in with a socket the same size as the outer race of the cartridge (never tap the inner race when installing or you will damage the bearings!), or alternatively shell out some money for a proper bearing drift. Good luck with the overhaul!
I agree, had to do front wheel bearings on my 00 sl2 last spring and it sounded like this. I replaced them myself using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBK2OJO
It was a very involved job, I would not recommend if you haven't done work like this before
You need a hub puller. They come in two types: one that bolts to the hub, and a more universal claw type one.
The bolt ones never fit right and tend to stretch the bolts, and the claw ones never fit right and tend to slip off. I would suggest just buying an assembly at this point. As others have pointed out, the annealing on the inside tends to make it impossible to get the old one out, and a pain in the butt to clean the surface to get the new one in.
I press these in and out of the knuckle and then press the hub in using an arbor press like this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JBK2OJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1501725745&sr=8-16-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=otc+wheel+bearing+tool&psc=1
I usually just separate the lower ball joint, remove the cv axle out of the hub but leave it in the trans, then remove the brake caliper and bracket. I don't reccomend using the arbor press without a powerful 1/2" impact wrench though.