Get a service manual. Not a Haynes or Clymer manual, but an actual shop service manual. You can find one on ebay, and probably the most useful tool you will ever buy.

Also get a decent tool set. Something like this. You'll never need all of those tools, but you'll need enough of them that it makes the price worth all the extra bits that you won't get in a less expensive one. Not necessarily that brand, there are as many brands as there are opinions to go along with them, but something similar. Also a torque wrench in whatever drive size your sockets are. You will definitely augment this set as you go, but this is enough to get you started.

Also, if you're swapping brake pads, it's a good time to bleed the system. A vacuum bleeder like this is totally worth it, IMO. Saves a bunch of time. There are better ones out there, but I only use it once every two or three years.

TL;DR: Learn by doing. Buy tools, buy manual, do work.

It's called an x-type pad spreader:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80112-X-Type-Spreader/dp/B002KS4V5A

Don't have the transmission fluid flushed. Drop the pan and change the filter and fluid that drains from the pan.

On the brakes use a turkey baster to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir then refill with fresh fluid. After that bleed the brakes until fresh fluid comes out at each wheel. I use a one man brake bleeder to catch the fluid so I can see when the old stuff is flushed out. It also helps in that when the bottle is full you know you also need to refill the master before you continue bleeding.

After you do the brake flush do the power steering fluid as well. Use the (cleaned) turkey baster to suck all the fluid out and refill. Start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock, turn off the engine and repeat until the fluid is new.

The acceleration pretty much is what it is. You can do new plugs and wires and clean the throttle body but it's a granny grocery getter, not a performance vehicle. If you take care of it and drive it like what it is you'll get some good life out of it. If you drive in such a way that you'd notice any performance it lost over the years it'll be nothing but trouble until it winds up in the junkyard.

If you put the blue/royal in it could destroy the system - it's non-DOT brake fluid, though it may be fine, best to get what's labelled for the clutch system.

This is the stuff you need. Get the bigger bottle that's in the "frequently bought together" because that little one is good for only a couple full bleeds.

That bleeder kit is a lifesaver though, makes it go quick, make sure when you do replace the fluid you back-bleed the system through the clutch slave cylinder.

Two man would be optimal and the cheapest method. I use the vacuum or pressure methods for flushing purposes. I assume you don’t have an air compressor so I own and use these tools for a one man no compressor purpose.

Vacuum

MV8000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_soVQDbZJ9N047

Refill tank (used with two man or vacuum method)

Mityvac MVA6832 Clamp-On Auto-Refill Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K1KPK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PvVQDbX1TZZBW

Pressure (with the correct adapter for the vehicle)

Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9rVQDb9QG3FXY

No need for speed bleeders, just a simple bleeder bottle and you're done.

For brake fluid, use this tool

For coolant and trans, you can drain it into a drain pan.

To refill the coolant, you can use this tool

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Found what I was thinking of:

Motive Products 100 Brake System Power Bleeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DV2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QOBaBb9KRC55A

Motive Products 1100 Master Cylinder Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q6UHQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HPBaBbS8DKJX4

Not that exact one maybe but yeah.

I used the Mityvac bleeder run off my air compressor. Makes for quick work, almost too quick and it's pretty easy to accidentally drain the master cylinder and force you to start all over again.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B000JFN9WC/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive

Also, these exist, which makes the process of bleeding brakes so much easier and faster.

> pressure bleeder

https://smile.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV6840-Pressure-Bleed-System/dp/B005MVBFM4?sa-no-redirect=1

That MityVac is actually what prompted me to buy the HF one. I couldn't justify the MV at nearly $300 but #35 for the HF jobby was easy. :)

I know the MV is better too because I've used them, just can't justify the $$$ for my limited need.

I got a $8 one-man bleed kit and I do it myself. It's so easy, it's silly.