(Part 2) Best camera remote shutter release according to redditors

I'll do my best. I don't know many technical terms, and I'll likely be editing this as I remember more things, so beware. Also I'm including solutions to a lot of mistakes I made, so this is long:

Setup:

• Before you go, take a picture of a distant object (building, tree...whatever), and make a mental note about where the focus ring on your camera should be. For my 50mm lens, I need to have the focus ring rotated nearly all the way to the left. This will come in handy later. (http://multimedia.journalism.berkeley.edu/media/upload/tutorials/stillcams/rebel_lens.jpg)
  
  
• Download Stellarium (http://www.stellarium.org/) and check to see what the sky will look like when/where you plan your shoot. Also make sure you understand which direction the stars will be drifting in. In N. California, at 9:30 at night, on Sept 18th, facing NE, Andromeda drifted upward and slightly to the left.
  
  
• Next, you'll need a dark area. Use a light pollution map like http://darksitefinder.com/maps/unitedstates-15color.html. I live near San Francisco, so I had to drive 90 miles to get to an area that was dark enough for decent pictures ("green" on the light maps).
  
  
• Make a list of what you need to be sure about: Camera, set to RAW, charged battery, memory card, tripod, tripod head...
  
  Taking pics:
  
  
• I setup my camera and tripod, and aim it towards the first star I see on my screen. However, if your camera isn't focused at least a little, the stars will be so blurry you can't find them. So it helps to know roughly where your focus needs to be (that's why we made that mental note about it earlier). Once you've found a star, adjust your focus as necessary and get it as pin-point sharp as you can.
  
  
• Helpful: An android tablet or laptop. There are free DSLR apps that will give you a live view from your camera, instead of relying on your camera's tiny screen. REALLY helps with focusing and reviewing your images. You can often adjust the camera settings from them too.
  
  
• Now that I'm setup and focused it's time to find Andromeda, so I aim my camera towards it. Problem: I don't know if I'm aimed directly at it, so I take a long exposure at a high ISO. This makes the galaxy much more obvious, so I can find it when I review my picture.
  
  
• Because the earth rotates, the stars drift. Remember when we checked Stellarium, Andromeda was drifting upwards and slightly to the left. I try to aim the galaxy towards the bottom of my frame so as the galaxy moves across the sky, it moves from the bottom of my frame to the top and I don't constantly have to re-adjust my camera.
  
  
• For the 50mm 1.8 lens (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-Standard-AutoFocus-Lens/dp/B00005K47X/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411340725&sr=1-2&keywords=canon+50mm+1.8+lens): Once you've got your aim and focus ready, check that you're taking pictures in RAW, set your exposure to 6 seconds, set your ISO to 1600. Longer lenses will need more light, and offer you shorter exposure times, but you'll get a larger view of the object.
  
  
• I use a remote trigger, lock it in the "take pictures" position, and let the camera fire for 10-15 minutes. Then I check the most recent picture and make sure the galaxy is still in the frame. If it's not near the top of the frame, I keep going for a bit longer until the galaxy starts to get close to the opposite edge of the frame. (Remote: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KDQPWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• If you need more pictures, re-adjust the camera and keep going. I shoot until I collect at least 500 shots.
  
  
• Now that you have your pictures, you'll need dark frames. We'll use these later to correct errors the camera makes. Put the lens cap on, and with exactly the same exposure time, and the same ISO, take at least 20-30 shots. Don't wait too long, these frames work best if the camera's sensor is still hot from the previous shoots.
  
  
• Now you need bias frames. Again, we'll use these to correct camera errors. Keep the lens cap on, and set your exposure time to the fastest your camera offers. For my T3i, that's 1/4000th of a second. Take 20-30 shots.
  
  Processing:
  
  
• Helpful: When I load my pictures onto the computer, I make 3 folders "Light" "Dark" "Bias". Sometimes I'll find I have high ISO, high exposure "looking for the galaxy" pictures mixed in with my regular pictures. I find the easiest way to identify them is to view my pictures in Windows Explorer and select View - Details. This lists the pictures along with the date they were taken, file size, etc. I add Exposure Time, Focal Length, and ISO to the detail columns and now I can see exactly which pictures are throwaways. I put the pictures of the galaxy in the Light folder, Darks in the Dark folder, and Bias in the Bias folder.
  
  
• Use Deep Sky Stacker, load your Light Frames, and click "Check All". Then load your dark frames, then your bias. These will check automatically. Then click Register Pictures.
  
  
• Under Stacking Parameters, I use Mosaic Mode under "Result" and Kappa Sigma Clipping for the Light, Dark, and Bias frames. Click OK
  
  
• Click Recommended Settings and click any link that's blue. This will automatically pick the best setting for you. Click OK and start stacking! This should take at least a couple hours from start to finish.
  
  
• You'll end up with a picture of nearly NOTHING! But now when you brighten it up the stars and galaxy will emerge and you'll end up with FAR less noise. Deep Sky Stacker used those dark and bias frames to identify what in your pictures is just useless noise, and eliminated it. Deep Sky Stacker also has a very crude adjustment tool to brighten images, but you can use Gimp, Photoshop, Lightroom, or another image editor to really play with the brightness, levels, and curves to get the best image possible.
  
  
• Helpful: If DSS goes through the whole process, and ends in an error, look through your pictures. Make sure the darks are all dark, the lights are all light, and delete frames that look funky (airplane flying through them or something). Maybe try stacking just the first 50, or the first 10...play around with it until you find out what's wrong.
  
  Did I leave anything out? Any questions?
  
  VERY HELPFUL VIDEO: http://youtu.be/e0JSTF8SGi4

Check out amazon. I recently bought a cheap $8 wired remote which also does bulb mode and helps in autofocus.

Here’s the link for the one bought. should work with d3500 as long as you’ve a plug in option-
Kiwifotos MC-DC2 Remote Switch Shutter Release Cord for Nikon Z7 Z6 P1000 D750 D5600 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3300 D3200 D3100 D7000 D7100 D7200 D7500 D610 D600 Df D90 and More Nikon SLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D9Y331/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o.sMDbER2S8H1

Use an intervalometer. Here's one:

http://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Control-Shutter-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y35VMM

The leather grip sadly they don't sell anymore but you can find one's almost identical! The soft camera release was actually just off Amazon. Nothing crazy probably spent like 15$. Here is an example.

Camera Soft Release Button JJC Red Deluxe Shutter Button for Fuji Fujifilm X-T20 X-T10 X-T2 X-PRO1 X-PRO2 X100 X100S X100T X100F X30 X20 X10 X-E3 X-E2S Sony RX1R II RX10 II III IV Leica M7 M8 M9 M10 M-E M-P M-A https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D9DDHNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ShB3Cb3Q371DS

If you're holding your camera with the lens facing you, just to the left of the lens there's a self-timer switch. You can read about how to operate it in the user manual.

Alternatively, to the right of the lens there's a screw port. You can insert one of these cables (there are many different lengths out there) to trip the shutter remotely.

Just saying.

This cable release with a lock is listed on Amazon for $11. So, the "can't afford one" issue may not be as big as you think it is.

Alpha Build 1

Alpha Build 2

I am in no means a carpenter as you can tell. If I had more time I and proper tools, I would've polished it more. It was painted white since it was a baby shower. I put a clear plastic plate in the back so I could fiddle with the camera settings without taking it out of the box. I also ended up putting holes in the front and the side to let the IR beam through and so the cables can run out of the box.

The guess didnt have to hold the shutter release. Just pressed it and it had a 2 second delay before it took the actual shot. The actual remote shutter had a 2 sec button on it.

This was the Remote I used.

These were the triggers I used on the speedlights.

edit: I was using the t4i with the stock 18-135mm lens too. The wide angle on it was great.

Yeah sure. I used the kit lens for my EOS 1100D (17-55mm), 30 second exposures iirc, 35 seconds interval (I tried 30s interval but because the exposure was 30s I had to allow time to save the images to the storage).

I live on the edge of a small town so it wasn't necessary to go out to the middle of nowhere to avoid light pollution, although I suspect it would yield better results to do so. I simply set up my camera pointing out through an open skylight and connected it to my laptop on which I have installed camera control software which has options for timelapse.

The use of a laptop was purely personally choice though, it's honestly easier to use something like this.

Pretty sure it's a gold version of this from Amazon.

Looks like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Shutter-Release-Threaded-Fujifilm/dp/B074642BQG/

I want to get a shutter release for my camera (Currently waiting on a D850), and I'm not super concerned with wireless.

My question is, is this Nikon MC-36A better than this PIXEL one in any way that matters? I don't care about any metering, timelapse, or any extra bells and whistles beyond "Expose for this long, and... go" - I just want to be able to take long exposures without touching the camera.

At an 8x price difference, is there anything I should know? Or is this a classic case of "1st party accessory price gouging?"

Here you go. You got lucky it's right next to me right now ha. Amazon link

The most important accessory that you can get for any mirrorless camera is a couple of extra batteries. The X100T is supposed to have better battery life than previous cameras in the series, but it's still a good idea to have at least a back-up battery -- maybe more, especially if travelling.

I have these: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Charger-Fujifilm/dp/B005CRHM5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507057&sr=8-1&keywords=wasabi+power+x100s (Not sure if X100T uses the same battery as my X100s).

Some things that are ergonomically helpful are add-on grips, such as the lensmate: http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-X100S-Thumb-Lensmate-Silver/dp/B00E259GCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507115&sr=8-1&keywords=thumbs+up+x100s , though I use a knock-off: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Thumbs-TU-100S-Camera-Sliver/dp/B00C9UROH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507115&sr=8-5&keywords=thumbs+up+x100s , and it works fine. Another ergonomics helper is a soft shutter release button (the shutter button on the camera is an old-school threaded one), there are tons of these on the market, again I went with a knock-off ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JCJO5QU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507202&sr=1&keywords=soft+shutter+release ) and it's fine.

As far as the hood / filter-adapter, I would recommend buying this. I don't really care for the lens hood (though it does cut flare) but instead use the filter adapter and a B+W MRC UV filter. I've never used UV filters on digital before, and still don't on my interchangeable-lens cameras, but being that this is a fixed lens camera and I'm pretty rough on it, I just use the filter and toss it in bags without a lens cap or anything and it's just fine.

A different strap may be good, it's all personal preference. I use a leica non-slip strap and it's great.

Here is a nice neoprene case that will snugly fit the X100s for carry inside some kind of other bag: http://www.amazon.com/OP-TECH-USA-Digital-D-Compact/dp/B0001TSSM2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411507453&sr=1-2&keywords=op+tech+compact

Fuji makes wide/tele converter lenses for 28mm and 50mm equivilent perspectives. They are supposedly very good but I haven't used them.


Other than that, it's all in what you want to shoot. filters and tripods might be nice for landscape shooters, lighting gear is nice for portrait shooters. Just like any other camera, really.


If you're new to photography, I would recommend picking up some books -- start with Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson and The Photographer's Eye by Michael Freeman. A book about the X100T specifically would be helpful too -- they are sure to come out soon.

There's any number of remotes that you can lock the button down on for long exposure.

Here's one I found on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002KDQPU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1395293089&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

You have to be resourceful and do your research. In this case, it took me about a minute.

Nikon USA

B&H

Amazon

You need to add a timer remote to your camera to do time lapse. Many DSLRs don't have the feature built in.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y35VMM

I'd recommend one of these suckas, especially if you think she might combine cooking & taking photos. Photography is all about light, and one of these speedlites is an awesome and affordable way to get a better understanding of that. Read the reviews to get an idea of how kickass these things can be.

Alternatively, I learned photography by taking pics of the night sky. It was the most interesting thing to me and is what drove me to learn more about taking photos. I bought one of these, which allowed me to take pics with crazy long shutters on my T2i and also do cool stuff with star trails. I remember being so damn pumped when I took that photo with my T2i, the stock lens and a $10 shutter release.

Coupling the release with the tripod is a nice combo. The flash is great for indoor stuff.

If you're feeling SUPER crazy, consider the famous "nifty fifty." My biggest frustration with the kit lens when I had my T2i was that it was practically useless handheld in low light, and it was hard to achieve any shallow depth of field, which are two pretty big draws to DSLR photography. The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II changed that all.

It can be had for under $100 used on Amazon, but I'd check your local Craigslist. Everyone Canon shooter has owned this lens at one point, and I've seen them for as low as $50 on NYC CL.

I would go for the 50mm lens and a tripod, throw in the shutter release and flash if you're feeling super generous. It would set her up for a very long time if she is serious about photography. If all the stars align, you could probably get the lens + tripod + shutter release + flash for under $150 but it's not very likely.

How does this setup look?


EOS T7i
iOptron
Rokinon
Remote
Tripod

see that threaded hole in the shutter button on your AE-1P ? you screw your cable release into that, and then push the button (plunger) on the other end.

It looks like this

Nicer ones have a little thumbscrew so you can hold the shutter open in 'B' mode.

I had to go old school with the X-T2 :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031CGW7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pLctybXHYDPG0

I was all set to buy that stuff from dealextreme when it turns out amazon sells the same products for about the same price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032O6S70/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=AL7LHK6Q9LVTS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GTSHY8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=AL7LHK6Q9LVTS

>I own a Cannon Powershot G12? Will that camera suite my needs?

You will need a remote shutter release, as well as a tripod if you don't already have one.

Some software is more webcam oriented, you may want to get something that works with pics you download to your pc rather than requiring an active connection to the computer.
This is free.

I think the only way to get instantaneous remote shutter fire is to get a wired remote. Luckily, they are cheap, and really good for fireworks.

Also, you can get a wired intervalometer that will also do manual shutter triggering and a lot more. I have this one, and it works great for time lapses and fireworks.

I also have this one - it just trips the shutter and is really cheap. Less bulky and good for fireworks.

Was the remote release the IR kind that works directly with the camera, and didn't need anything plugged into the camera? Like this?

If so, that may explain why it worked in bulb mode that way. Canon doesn't expect you to aim the IR remote at the camera for 5 minutes to do a 5 minute exposure. The camera knows you're using an IR remote, and acts accordingly. I'm just guessing, though.

On the other hand, a release that plugs into the side of the camera will have a built-in way to hold down the button, and Canon makes that kind of release work just like the shutter button.

I have the peak design strap as mentioned below and like it. You can also get a button for the shutter release on Amazon

I think others have mentioned all of the following, but here’s my X100T setup. The thumb grip is a must-have since it makes holding the camera so much easier and more secure. The JCC lens hood is great, and combined with a clear filter means I don’t ever have to worry about a lens cap. The soft release button is nice and adds a bit of flair. And finally, I prefer a wrist strap for this camera, so I made my own (instructions linked below).

https://imgur.com/gallery/bBrfC

• JCC Lens Hood (link)
  
• B&W Clear UV Haze Filter (link)
  
• Lensmate Thumb Grip (link)
  
• Red Soft Release Button (link)
  
• DIY Paracord Wrist Strap (instructions)

I'm in desperate need of a remote control for my camera since I mostly use it for fashion shoots and filming. It would make everything go so smoothly if I didn't have to run back and forth from my camera to my backdrop :P

Thanks so much for the contest!

P.S. Your photos are gorgeous! I love the portraits that you do :)

Does anyone have a favorite remote trigger for their D800? I was looking at this one which is a Nikon piece. Seems to have good reviews but I'm wondering if there are better solutions out there. I really just need a decent trigger for landscapes and urbex.

I have an older DSLR and I just got one of these... It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Ramozz-intervalometer-remote-shutter-Camera/dp/B00C1C0WQC

I'd recommend getting a remote shutter release.

$13 on Amazon.

It can help avoid camera shake or even camera movement when pressing the shutter button during a long exposure. If you're human like us, you can sometimes upset camera position when you reach over to press the shutter. A remote button eliminates this possibility. And besides, you'll look like Mr. Pro Photo Dude with your nifty remote button. :0)