Best color correction camera filters according to redditors

General GoPro advice:

• In saltwater (blue water color) you need a red filter. Here's your cheapest option: http://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Filter-GoPro-Version-Acrylic-Accessory/dp/B00B2PHSIY
  
• In freshwater/lakes (green water color) you need a magenta colored filter.
  
  And, some specific advice for your Hero3 Silver:
  
  
• 30FPS will look better than 60FPS because the camera will get more light exposure per frame, improving your image. If you are planning a dive deeper than ~50ft or so in all but crystal clear waters with bright sun, I would shoot in 30fps.
  
• For the same reason as the above, you may get a better exposure shooting in 720p than in 1080p. The Black Edition cameras and newer 3+/4 cameras are better at these higher resolutions in low light conditions, due to a better sensor and other improvements.

I was in your position at one point and got some cheap $50 action cameras and red filters. Most of the footage was just unusable, even after a lot of editing. The white balance was terrible and the lack of image stabilization made the videos unpleasant to watch.

In your position, I would look for a used GoPro Hero 5 black or a GoPro Hero 2018 (which can be updated in 5 minutes to the 5 black with a firmware update...just YouTube it). I see the Hero 2018 go for $120 all the time. You may be able to negotiate lower on Craigslist.

Then, just grab the Kupton case and filter combo for $20. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJGVYHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AUbiDbEWKC326

That will give you much better results than an off brand action cam. Plus, you can find accessories very easily and find support videos on YouTube without hassle.

Back in the old days they'd put vasline on the lens. This was done in film a lot, especially for shooting glamorous shots of women with that slightly out-of-focus look. Here's a gallery showing some of the look. Another trick photographers use to get in-camera flare on the highlights like that, and a soft focus seen in your shots is a soft-focus filter. Here's one. I have a calumet one around here somewhere. It's a clear plastic square that mounts in a housing in front of the lens. It's slightly frosted looking. Bright spots flare a bit to give a bit of glow, and bright sections of skin do this a bit as well. It also means that even when you're in-focus, everything is just a whisker out of focus, hiding blemishes and smoothing skin tones. People make them in various ways. Too, they tend to kill black areas by allowing light to diffuse over them, and will kind of lightly wash out the contrast in a shot. You can also change exposure either in the camera or when developing the negatives or prints to raise the blacks to gray and blow out the whites a bit.

Orange #21.

https://www.amazon.ca/Tiffen-58mm-21-Filter-Orange/dp/B00004ZCDK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550776365&sr=8-1&keywords=orange+21+filter

Yep, classic florescent light color temperature. A filter such as this do the trick.

These are the ones I use but they also have others including the full sheets.

Very well. Try this one for the Hero6. As you can see in the link from my original comment, the filters are depth rated and get redder and redder the deeper you go;ideally you would switch between them. Realistically, I used the 20-55 ft one on the drawstring, 100% of the time, and popped it off for surface recording and night dives. Also highly recommend some type of handle/rod so you can curl the camera around some formations or get into crevices.

Or, even simpler. Use a filter. Works like a champ.

>There is no specific wavelength for magenta so it isn't a colour. There have to be specific rules in science for what is a colour and what isn't.

I disagree. "Colour" is a perceptual phenomenon, under the realm of neurology and psychology, and the borders are largely determined by culture & language. Hungarians have 2 main words for what English speakers call reds, Russians have 2 words for blues, but Chinese & Japanese have a single character to cover blues & greens. So magenta is a valid color name if your culture says it is. That doesn't mean it must have a rigid formal definition.

Physical science (astronomy, physics, chemistry) has a better system than color names: specify a wavelength or frequency, or the interference pattern of multiple waves (accounting for phase). There's no confusion via cultural differences if you stick to that.

>Try and make a magenta filter

You can combine 2 filters for the appropriate wavelengths of red & blue, or you can just buy one.

Crank your blues up all the way, have no white light at all, and cover the tank with an orange film like this:

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https://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-52mm-21-Filter-Orange/dp/B00004ZCB7

Do any GoPro Hero 3+ owners here have experience with the GoScope Reversible red filter?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LU3NGDO/

Does This mean it allows Ir to pass through or what? I need some clarification

I am doing some underwater stfuff as well. Here's a few things that I purchased:

the bobber

red snap on filter

go scope

And a shameless plug for my first tide pool video shot last weekend.

Thanks! I'm looking at getting one of these for my Nikon L35AF: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00004ZC8X/

Its US Amazon. Not sure the equivalent in Norway

http://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Filter-GoPro-Version-Acrylic-Accessory/dp/B00B2PHSIY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414955142&sr=8-3&keywords=polar+pro

For comparison, here is my gopro video from Hawaii when I didn't use a filter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcJBeXzZ8gE

Awesome video! A few things though

1. You should use really use a red filter.
   
2. How did you rig it to the chum?
   
3. How long did you leave it down there?

I got one similar to this

Worked great for me, here's some screen grabs so you get an idea of what it's like, I chose to just leave it on at all times rather than risk taking it off for topside and loosing it

Above Water

Shallow Water (around 10 metres)

Deeper water (around 20 metres)

Deeperer water (around 32 metres)

All images are RAW so with a bit of colour correction they look quite nice, think my next investment will be a nice dive light to go with it.

It's a soft focus lens or lens filter, not the camera. There may be a post-production 'effect' but I don't work with video so I'm not sure on that. Here is a review for a Canon lens with softfocus feature. There are also soft focus filters for lenses, but I've heard they're a bit shit if you buy off-brand. There's also the ol' chapstick or petroleum jelly on a UV filter DIY method. Never worked with them myself though so YMMV.

This filter is the standard blue and would work well for accentuating freckles and blemishes. It's a little dark, but a lighter blue wouldn't do what you want as well.

You can estimate the effect in photoshop. I did an image search and downloaded an example, and then turned half of it into a B&W with the blue channel. Here it is.

amazon. Red 29

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-67mm-29-Filter-Red/dp/B00004ZCG5/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1280508172&sr=1-3

u/kong1126 - for white balance, find someone with a white shirt (or wear one yourself), and hit the manual WB button before every shot.

If that's too much hassle, get a $10 white balance calibration card and wear it around your neck.

And, hopefully, your camera has a servo zoom speed adjustment? If so, use it.

If not, a zoom lever can help with executing smooth manual zooms . They're only about $13 [Referral Links].

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your internship!

Red light gets absorbed by the water. You need to get a red filter to compensate for this. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kupton-Underwater-Waterproof-Correction-Housing/dp/B075WR3ZTQ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4