Best electric guitar hardware according to redditors

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|Part|Link|
|:-|:-|
|Strings|https://smile.amazon.com/Ernie-Ball-Regular-Slinky-Nickel/dp/B0002M6CVC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ernie%2Bball&qid=1574123633&sr=8-4&th=1|
|Neck|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G491NF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Neck Plate|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LMDLRFK/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Back Plate|https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06VY7HHGG/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d|
|Tuning Pegs|https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GGMW5UY/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d|
|Bridge Set|https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IN8WPPI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d|
|Input Jack|https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00R15FHTG/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d|
|Pickguard Assembly|https://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Pickups/Electric_Guitar_Pickups/Pre-wired_Pickguard_Assembly.html|

Porque no los dos?

https://www.amazon.com/Shadow-SH-124-500K-Kill-Pot/dp/B002XUCZI0

500k pot with momentary push switch. Wire the push as a killswitch and you can have the best of both worlds.

I've made quite a few kydex sheaths and have used different fasteners and thickness of kydex. Here is an example. I think thickness is probably more or less a preference thing. As of right now, I do the main halves of the sheath with .060" and the belt clip with .080". Like you mentioned, there is a very slight weight difference between the two and the thicker stuff is a tad stiffer. However, you can get more definition through pressing using the thinner stuff.

Currently, I use the brass eyelets to fasten the two halves together and some chicago fasteners to attach the belt clip. The chicago fasteners usually come with a washer. The washer is there because depending on the thickness of kydex you use, the shaft of the chicago fastener might be too long and the pieces of kydex will be loose inside the fastener. The washer will tighten things up if this is the case. In my current design, the two .060 layers and the one .080 layer combined is not thick enough, so I have to include a washer to make sure it is tight. That being said, I am sure if done properly, one could shorten the chicago fastener on the grinder so they could omit the washer.

EDIT: If you use the brass eyelets you will need to buy a eyelet punch or die. Here is the cheapest option. Depending on how many sheaths you want to make I would buy a more robust tool.

If you ever want to have a kill switch and still have all you knobs. This thing would be perfect. I've thought about getting one myself.

Get one of these, and replace your volume pot with it. Everything else stays standard.


EDIT: I see that you also use an Ibanez RG. I use one of these on mine.

Yes, that's a standard Mono jack, but in that image, it's not seeming to include the lock washer.
This one includes and illustrates the lock washer, but doesn't seem to include the outside flat washer. However, you may be able to re-use your existing flat washer (no gaurantees though). If there are electronics supply houses near you, they will have all these parts in stock.
https://www.amazon.com/Fender-2-Conductor-Guitar-Bass-Output/dp/B003AYK8XW/ref=pd_sbs_267_5/145-1156546-1180615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003AYK8XW&pd_rd_r=0bd03d18-fbde-4e45-9283-257155f8c78b&pd_rd_w=7xMlC&pd_rd_wg=TX8wL&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=67Y9H37C97Q667RZJAXB&psc=1&refRID=67Y9H37C97Q667RZJAXB

That switch should work fine, provided it wasn't assembled poorly, those are the dice you roll with the cheaper parts. They're not complex machines at all, so if you get one that was put together poorly, you may be able to fix things yourself. And you may get one that works fine, or works fine at first. But if you can afford a Switchcraft for about twice the cost, you'll have something that should be more reliable and durable.

Those are standard sized humbuckers and you should be able to replace them with any standard sized humbuckers (aka Gibson sized, not Fender sized - Fender sized are larger, but almost no one makes Fender sized pickups). For your budget, I'd highly recommend GFS pickups. GFS pickups are just fine and a great value for the money.

But pickups are just wire wrapped around magnets when it comes down to it. Where is the rust? On the pole pieces? Are the lead wires from the pickups intact and not corroded? If it's just the pole pieces that are rusted, that shouldn't be a big deal actually, you can clean that off. The real problem would be corrosion of the coil wires and/or breaks in the wire. If you have the patience and focus of attention to do it right (and to research how to do it right!), then it's actually feasible to unpot the pickup (remove the wax), unwrap the wire, clean it, clean the poles and the magnet, rewrap the pickup wire, and repot the pickups. It's extremely tedious and time consuming (you're talking about at least 6k to 7k wraps around the coils!), and humbuckers are more complex than single coils because you have to make sure that the two coils (north and south -> as in magnetic north and magnetic south) are reverse wound and reverse polarity.

Honestly, unless you have the right tools, patience, a keen sustainable interest in the work, and a LOT of time, it does just make the most sense to buy new pickups, but hopefully if you dig around the links in this post, you'll stumble on some useful information about pickups and guitar maintenance that you can dig into. Youtube has a metric ton of resources for guitar maintenance, repair, setup, and building. Dig in!

Even if you want to replace your pickups with new ones, you'll still need tools. What tools do you have or have access to? Do you have a soldering iron, solder, and a solder sucker? Do you have contact cleaner for electronics? Do you have anything to use to clean rust off contacts (be mindful of toxic chemicals)?

Is there any chance you can get your hands on a multi-meter? Maybe borrow one? These are indespensible when you're trying to figure out whether you have a broken component or bad wiring.

While you're working to replace the switch and pickups, be absolutely certain to check the existing wiring and make sure that nothing's corroded, loose, or broken. Most problems with pickups (assuming the pickup wires aren't corroded or broken), are actually problems with the control electronics and wiring. Since you'd be in there soldering up a new switch and possibly new pickups, it would be a good time to replace the wiring. You can get shielded guitar circuit wire from Amazon, but it's cheaper elsewhere, like Guitar Electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/Shadow-Kill-Pot-Potentiometer-Humbucker/dp/B002XUCZI0

It's a 500k push-pull that acts as a kill switch. Think SexPistols.

Why not a kill pot? A pot that you can tap down, no drilling holes required.

Shadow SH-124-500K Kill Pot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XUCZI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y5dcBbDBP10X2

Apologies for the misunderstanding. I see what you're talking about now. Those are bridge pivot screws. You should be able to find a local reseller or find them on Amazon.

You want the mono long thread, or spend $2 more on the Fender replacement which you can find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Fender-1-4-Output-Jack/dp/B003AYK8XW

Would this fender jack work well with it?

It can be a DIY. The only questions that I have before going through the steps for fixing this are 1) did the threads on the jack get stripped off during the smash? If so, you'll have to replace the jack. Which brings me to question 2) How good are your soldering skills? If the threads are OK, then all you have to do is take the cover off of the back, push the jack back through the hole in the retainer, put the jack cover back on and put the nut back on. If the threads on the jack are stripped off, then you'll have to buy a new jack, solder it in in place of the old jack, etc. As for cost, here's a link to a replacement jack -



https://www.amazon.com/Musiclily-Stratocaster-Telecaster-Electric-Guitars/dp/B00CP3GSPG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1492427092&sr=8-7&keywords=output+jack+for+electric+guitar

I bought these for inside waistband carry of several fixed blades: Comp-Tac Standard Clip 8 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRHOACK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And these: Quick Clip Pro- Open Back End... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0S2GWU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I also use a 550 paracord teather to my belt in case the sheath come out during deployment.