(Part 2) Best fishing tackle products according to redditors

You've got too much hardware on there. You want to tie your line directly to the hook. You're using a swimbait there, and the only really effective way to fish a swimbait in grass and remain mostly weedless is with a weighted swimbait hook... like these...

https://www.amazon.com/Berkley-Fusion19-Weight-Swimbait-Hooks/dp/B012MCUI1Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=weighted+swimbait+hooks&qid=1566933103&s=gateway&sr=8-7

You screw the wire into the front of the head, then rig the hook like you have it in the picture. The weight on the hook helps the baits swim upright. The weighted swimbait hook is really versatile, allowing you to fish it slowly to keep it near the bottom or even jig it up and down. I've even put it on a Zoom Ultravibe Speed Craw and reeled it fast across the top of the water like a buzzbait.

I would also recommend using a jig head built for swimbaits, like these...

https://www.amazon.com/Reaction-Tackle-Swimbait-Swing-Heads/dp/B07L2G6SKF/ref=sxin_1_ac_d_rm?ac_md=4-4-YmFzcyBqaWcgaGVhZHM%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=jig%2Bheads&pd_rd_i=B01MYGZR0P&pd_rd_r=2653de38-18e0-40df-a3b5-c3e6b3fc4335&pd_rd_w=gCoOq&pd_rd_wg=ElmVW&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=6HEAEV4H8WXM3QB165KP&qid=1566933271&s=gateway&th=1

These are pretty weedless, too, but over time, the push of grass against the nose of the bait will pull the bait down the hook shank. Not a deal-breaker, just something to be aware of. You can use standard jig-heads, but as the hook is exposed at the top of the bait, you won't be even close to weedless.

there are several articles in this subreddit about DIY light-up lightsabers with LED fishing bobber and the result is EXACTLY the same

It's a broad and general question, so you are likely to get similarly broad advice.

I am assuming you are talking about spin-fishing rather than fly fishing. I'd say:

Get a spinning (not casting) rod, and a spinning (not 'baitcasting') reel. Match your rod to your fish, your reel to your rod, and your line to your reel. The easiest thing to do is buy a combo LIKE THIS because the components are matched already.

If you want to roll-your-own setup:

ROD The rod will say what "weight" it is: ultra-light, Light, ..., heavy). Trout are usually light or ultra-light depending on the size they grow where you are fishing. Unless you know the trout are > 2 lbs. in weight, go with "Light"

REEL The reel should match the rod, look for a 1000 series for Light, or an ultralite for UL. More important though, the spool of the reel will list the how much of which line it can hold in terms of pounds of test. and length. e.g. My ultra-light reel will hold 100 yards of 4 lb. line (still on Imperial measurements here in US). For a Light rod, look for a reel that shows 6 - 8 lb test. About 150 yards of 6 lb is a good target.

LINE Get what is listed on the reel. Monofilament is fine, don't worry about flourocarbon, coated or braided lines.

TIPPET Do get some flourocarbon "tippet" and the smallest barrel swivels you can find. Trout have excellent eyesight, and the tippet is much harder for them to see because it is smaller and flourocarbon is invisible in water. This makes your terminal tackle less 'spooky.' 5x tippet is a good match for 6 lb test. 6x for ultralight. Do this even if you bought the combo above.

RIGGING Generally you will put your main line on the reel's spool and out to a swivel, then a few feet of the lighter, more expensive tippet to your terminal tackle. e.g. My ultralight setup is 4 lb. mono main line to a size 7 swivel and 7x flouro tippet to the terminal tackle. You probably want 6 lb to 5x, and 8 lb. to 5x is totally fine if you buy a combo with 8 lb.

TERMINAL TACKLE For reservoirs you want to use floating bait, tubes/jigs, and lures (inline spinners and/or spoons) from shore. From a boat, same, but more emphasis on spoons. Lures are a blast, but will cost you a LOT of money to acquire a good variety of them. I recommend bait and tubes/jigs if you are just starting out.

Floating Bait If you are shore-fishing, this is going to be your friend. Get some floating bait (real worms, dough, nuggets, etc.) and set up a Carolina Rig. Real worms are the best bait IMO, but they do not float naturally. You have to put air in them with a hypo. If you are just starting out, the artificial baits are fine. Rig it up, throw it in, take the slack out of the line and wait for the lunkers to come get some.

Tubes & Jigs These take more skill, but can produce a lot of fish. If you are fishing snaggy, moving water like rivers I recommend these as the top way to fish (lures are expensive and easy to lose in rivers.) Get a Trout Magnet or Crappie Magnet kit and you have everything you need.

Lures Inline spinners like Panther Martins (esp. the black/yellow dot & yellow/red dot) and Mepps Algias crush Sierra trout, not sure what their Eton comrades prefer. Keep the weight between 1/16 oz. and 1/8 oz. unless the trout are big (match the lure weights that are often listed on your rod) Good spoons here include the Acme Kastmaster, Thomas Bouyant and Super Duper. The rule here that the heavier the lure, the better it casts and the more potentially off-putting it is to a smallish fish like a trout.

Lure Selection The specifics of lure size, color and action can have a big impact on whether you get bites. What works one day may not work the next. This is how you can end up buying a LOT of lures. In general, you want to use light/bright colored lures in clear water and/or bright days and dark lures in turbid water or dimly lit days. THIS THREAD as well as THIS OTHER THREAD has some more detailed info on lure colors, sizes and brands I recommend.

You may also want to check out Fly and Bubble fishing which lets you use a spin rod to cast flies. It's a hoot and pretty effective: Get some adjustable spin floats, some flies and start fly and bubble fishing. Elk Hair Caddis sizes 12 - 18 are good, as are nymphs, and Mayfly imitations. Talk to local fly fishermen to see which bugs are good for your reservoir.

GETTING THE STUFF THAT WORKS Talk to the fishing outfitters near where you fish. They will tell you how the bite is, what the fish like, and where to do your fishing. Invaluable advice to prevent buying the entire world to cover all the bases.

HOW TO FISH This is super situational, but in general trout want to ingest more energy than they expend, i.e. they don't want to die. They like cold water near sources of food (bugs) and cover (rocks, brush, etc.). If you are fishing moving water, take the time to learn to READ THE WATER. Trout use moving water as a conveyor belt that brings them food. In reservoirs, you want to look for spots that are shallow enough to support plants and bugs, with deep water and/or good structure/cover nearby. Trout here will generally be cruising slowly or hanging in the water. Ideally, you will put your bait or lure near enough to entice without spooking them. If the trout are jumping or rising through the surface, they are eating insects from the surface film (emergers or fallen fliers), this would be a great time for the fly and bubble technique mentioned previously.

Generally THERE ARE TONS OF VIDEOS that cover whatever specific scenario you are going to pursue.

The most important technique is getting good at SETTING THE HOOK. It's hard to catch fish if you are bad at this.

FISH HANDLING

Trout are covered in protective slime:

• Wet your hand before touching them to help preserve it
  
• Use a rubber mesh net if you are netting them
  
• NEVER put them on the ground.
  
  Mash the barbs on your hooks if you are doing catch and release.
  
  Hemostats/forceps are the easiest way to remove hooks from fish
  
  Turning the fish upside-down will make them less frantic in their flopping.
  +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  
  I hope that helps, have fun!

I prefer my strings be strong, but as tiny/invisible as possible. Maybe something like this 100lb test invisible fishing line.

I've been more successful with it going the opposite against my grain for LMB - lighter gear, simple. It's a finesse technique so it makes sense, but it's just not how I think we're wired for LMB typically.

Pick up the Zman Shroomz jigheads. Go with the 1/20th, literally the lightest one. Pair it up with the Zman TRDs - again, they're small and light and practically indestructible. Put all that on like 4-8lb test on a light spinning rod. I use 6lb test on a medium light 6 foot spinning rod, which makes nearly any fish you catch a fun fight. Now you're geared up.

I've done this pond fishing for LMB, and river fishing for SMB - it's great for both, but technique is different.

For ponds, cast it out, let it fall. It's very similar to wacky worm fishing, really. Fall, wait, pop and let it fall again. Repeat. Watch the line like a hawk. With light gear you don't want to set the hook hard - it's a small wire hook, it's going to go in pretty easily. This was the hardest thing for me to learn. All you have to do is raise or sweep the rod tip a bit faster than usual, and the hook will set.

I'm still working on the rivers part. But with light tackle it will just drift in the current, and smallies pick them up, often without you even feeling a strike. My buddy has just anchored in one spot below a riffle and just caught fish after fish this way. If the current is slower, you can do the same as the pond technique above. You could consider slightly heavier heads in faster current to get your rig down, but the heavier it gets the more chance of getting hung in the rocks where I fish, so you have to find the right balance. At this point I only carry the 1/20th and 1/10 heads with me.

I've caught LMB, SMB, big bluegill, falls fish - just about anything will hit a Ned. And it seems to work well even on colder, slower days when they're not hitting larger more active baits. It's quickly becoming a go-to technique for me.

Can you use a gut hook? Like a big safety cutter hook?

HAVEL'S GHC-3 Piranta Gut Hook Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG839LI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eF.HDbDYV9D1R

There’s a multitool that will accept this blade called a havalon evolve. Looks like a skeletool but it accepts a replaceable blade

Bozeman flyworks have good prices. I use it and it works just as well as any I have used. 55 yards for 9 bucks...cant beat it. https://www.amazon.com/55-yards-Bozeman-FlyWorks-Fluorocarbon/dp/B015461VVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496855647&sr=8-1&keywords=bozeman+flyworks+tippet

I prefer these tricolor “Bobber Doggin Chubbys” for presenting a drag free drift of a variety of nymph patterns. Plus they cast well on spinning gear if you like to fly fish with mono like a true tenkaraeuronympho.

ALEXA PASTE LINK TO BOBBER DOGGIN CHUBBY FROM AMAZON OH SHIT WHAT IS ON MY TV. BARB, HELP!

Aero-float Bobber Doggin' Chubby Guide Pack (4 Floats Per Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAL9X1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z4G3DbTHRCPN4

I'd go Saw instead of Axe, less exersion/calorie use, better cuts.

Dump the gill net, in the case of season 3, your inland, not on the ocean, if you don't get lucky enough to get a stream on your site you wasted one of your 10. If you are lucky and get a stream, building fish traps is easy.

Maybe Bow, but only if your skilled in it's use

Definately cordage should be added, there are too many things that you can do with it.

Here is the list of what I would bring...

• 1 Survival knife: My personal Knfe is a Gerber Strong Arm Fine Edge, I've picked up a mod for the sheath to allow it to be attached better in a verticle fashion (on a belt for ex.) from a Chamdar17 on YouTube that makes it. Definately worth getting as the factory design is very flimsy awkward.
  
  
• 1x5 lbs Food Rations: Beef Jerky (protein) Generic "Oh Sh!t backup". Can be re-consitiuted with water and "bulked" back up, but may switch to another source away from protien as that may be the only nutient source collectable during the contest, and one needs diversity to survive/thrive.
  
  
• 1 300-yards of nylon single filament fishing line and 25 assorted Hooks: they don't say what types only overall length in the posted rules, so I would divide it up as such;
  
  1, 100 Yard 30lb test (Additional Cordage, Snare wire)
  
  2, 100 yard 20lb test (Additional Cordage, or use as heavy line)
  
  3, 100 yard 15 lb test (for actual fishing)
  
  for the 25 hooks, get the "red" colored hooks [Here is why] as they may be a built in attractant, a bonus within the rules is a bonus...
  
  
• 1x2qt pot with lid: Found this one that has a lid that can double as an additional pan, Note the 2liter pan is too large, and the 1.5 liter is a little small for the qt conversion. but I get the 2 for 1 lid as a fry pan. Maybe look for someone to make a custom pan set. Another possibility is getting a very deep pan with cover like the Lodge Logic Cast Iron Skillet, 5 qt (aparently there is no size limit of skillet/fry pans in the rules, weight would suck, but it would most likely fit in/on the pack)
  
  
• 1 flint or ferro rod set: Best I can find (big and thick rod 1000s of strikes)
  
  
• 1 multi-seasonal sleeping bag that fits within provided backpack: My Choice is a Cabela's bag rated to -40 it's a rectangular extra large bag for comfort.
  
  
• 1 saw: Hand Made Bow Saw, 30 inch blade, wooden. I created a 30 inch bow saw out of hardwood based loosly on the following plans from the ToolsForWorkingWood.com Site, note I upscaled the design to utilize a 30" Bacho Green Wood Bow Saw blade
  
  
• 12x12 ground cloth/tarp: very heavy, rubberized and aluminized tarp for heat reflection and durabiity (Add Grommets every 12 inches all the way around)
  
  
• Paracord Cordage: Actually a Hammock, I found instructions for creating a paracord based hammock that is a single piece for the main field of the Hammock. Doing this would give me a minimum of 330' of paracord and within the rules. plus the braided ends for attaching to trees as additional length. Special Note, The rules I've seen states "Paracord", but not the type. If you get the 750lb instead of the 550lb it has 11 triple strand core fibers instead of 7 double strand...
  
  
• Lastly I have one open slot, Need to consider where I'll be. Possibly a Bow (rather a good shot), maybe more rations. Possibly a water container/canteen (which would be a 38oz Nalagen with a mod to hang over the fire). There are lots of posibilities...
  
  
  My Start
  
  Day 1, job 1: temp shelter and fire building Prep for first night... NOTE! If in an area of Large Predators (Boar, Big Cat, Bears, etc) First order of Business Make a Boar Spear! 8 feet long, and mount a cross bar about a foot down (Boar Spear, else they will climb the spear torwards you)
  
  Day 2, water production and evaluate the site, dig into a little of the rations for food for the day. Plan out the permant camp (if located), fishing/food prep/trapping areas, Freshwater sources. Try to make the permant cam centrally located between food and water, but away from food prep area and possible larger predator areas.
  
  Day 3, Water Production, Hunting gathering morning, Camp building after noon. Food prep and bed.. Basically I'll follow the rule of 3s mostly (3 minutes air, 3 hours exposure, 3 days water, 3 weeks food) everything has it's priority, Shelter fire 1st, water 2nd, food last, beyond that is comfort to survive and thrive in the situation.

Lol here ya goled

Hey /u/lvlI0cpu , I have the same kayak. Not much my kayak needs, but I recently started using suffix advanced 832 lead core to troll. It's a lead core line that sinks about 7ft per color or so. It all depends on speed. It's probably been my greatest addition to trolling from the kayak. That way I don't have to use a lot weight, or let out a lot of line.

https://www.rapala.com/sufix/lead-core/832-advanced-lead-core/832andreg-advanced-lead-core/832+Advanced+Lead+Core.html

Even if he uses it, sometimes the line can get in bad shape and needs replaced after a good days fishing due to line twist and such. Pick some good small size ball bearing swivels too. You want them to be small enough to go through the first eye of a rod. So you don't have to mess with a super long leader hanging every where.

the smallest ones here:

https://www.amazon.com/JSHANMEI-Strength-Bearing-Connectors-Saltwater/dp/B01JFPZ7BM


You say northern, so I'm assuming he likes to troll for walleye, hybrid bass, maybe occasional trout. This line would work for that.

oh bloody hell!

black flagg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GNKYMJA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3AB4PDMZMBQ52&colid=3J7LIJC34B3MS

I feel anything you try to buy will be too short. Also those mounting plates would need a flatish surface. But, you can make your own. Buy light duty cable and some cripping sleeves. Cut the cable to the length you want and seal the ends into loops with the crimping sleeves. Wrap the cable around the rift headband and feed one end into the other end through the loop. Wrap the other end around something sturdy that can't be moved and lock a padlock around the cable and the loop. Now you can remove the cable without damaging the rift. or having to cut the cable when you are done and make in any length you want. You might want to add a fabric tube around the loop that goes around the rift to avoid anyone having their hair pulled.

I use a light action rod with around 4lb line. The have used the linked tackle below with huge success. Usually I will buy local custom jigs for panfish but when I run out these jigs are just as good.

https://www.amazon.com/Leland-Lures-87670-Slotted-Floats/dp/B0010FBVGQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1500559518&sr=1-7&keywords=crappie+magnet

https://www.amazon.com/SHELURE-Hooks-Fishing-Tackle-50PCS/dp/B01G88MS2U/ref=sr_1_25?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1500559518&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=crappie+magnet&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Leland-Lures-Crappie-Magnets-Chartreuse/dp/B00AAKA6S6/ref=sr_1_16?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1500559518&sr=1-16&keywords=crappie+magnet

Rig it up so that the jig is a few inches to a foot above the bottom (I mostly do shallow shore fishing with this) and put a big fat waxworm on the hook.

I will jerk this jig along the shore and through cover. The action I usually do is to jerk, jerk, pasue. Jerk, jerk, pause. They usually strike on the pause.

Let me know is you have any questions.

These are what I use

I figured out that those lights are fishing bobber leds

OKBUYNOW LED Bobber Light Replacement Battery for Archery Nocks, Fishing - 12PCS (6PCS Red+6PCS Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NADWTZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RthPybM6SD9QW

Sure! 40-ish bucks worth of hooks swivels and weights and braided mainline and mono leader. 5 bucks worth of powerbait(worms are free if you wanna dig) 30 dollars a year for fishing license(depending on what state you live in). Carpool with a couple friends to a lake or river, if one has a boat that's cool but you don't need one. A 30 dollar rod and reel set works. Don't need a 400 dollar rod to catch 2 pound trout. If you go once a week and catch a few fish then you more than break even. Start out cost is low as well as accruing expenses. You only need to keep buying bait and a yearly fishing license

Lines: [braided main line] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OPKT9I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - [Mono leader line] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T7WAN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hooks: [#8 baithooks] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186XEATY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Sinkers: [assorted sinker set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009V2R2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Swivels: [These even have swivels, which aren't pictured] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YMJ6ONC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - [heres a picture of the snaps] (http://i.imgur.com/BJeHUso.jpg)

Powerbait: [Take your pick of different colors and scents to see what works where you fish at] (https://www.amazon.com/Berkley-Powerbait-Glitter-Rainblow-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0000AV1L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478070992&sr=8-1&keywords=powerbait)

Rod and reel:[If you go to an outdoors store you can find even cheaper] (https://www.amazon.com/Okuma-Spinning-Combo-Medium-7-Feet/dp/B00LV00CZG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478070582&sr=8-4&keywords=fishing%2Brod%2Band%2Breel&th=1&psc=1)

All of those one time expenses comes up to 63.30, that includes a rod and reel, lines, hooks, weights, sinkers, snap swivels and a jar of bait. The only thing you need to buy after that is bait every now and again for 4~ dollars

As for the license, it depends where you are, some places it's as cheap at 9 dollars a year, some places its 40.

As for getting my monies worth, I think I do, fresh fish is expensive. That's not even including the experience of it. I love going out into nature and relaxing with friends, catching a few fish and eating them for dinner is pretty fun

The swivels are These ones from Amazon I have some size 3 and size 9 chained together. The rest of the hardware is from big radio control airplanes. I have some 4-40 Titanium turnbuckles and Some 4-40 Clevis' that my spinners are attached to. This allows me to crank the turnbuckle to add as much tension as I want to the cores. It keeps everything perfectly parallel and it helps tremendously in keeping things flat when your working with 3-4 cores. It's probably less than $30 total in hardware including the spinners and damn does it make a huge difference.

Here is a better look at the vise and drill ends of the setup.

https://www.amazon.com/YOGAYET-Offset-Fishing-Octopus-Saltwater/dp/B01A0T0YYW?th=1&psc=1